9 Australian outback towns with a twist

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From Australia’s UFO capital to the world’s most isolated pub, these outback towns deliver more than dusty horizons.

Wycliffe Well, NT

Venture 380 kilometres north of Alice Springs and you’ll land smack bang in the UFO Capital of Australia. After reading about sightings during the Second World War, one man by the name of Lew Farkas purchased the local roadhouse and, after dropping a cool $4 million, created a gimmicky tourist attraction complete with kitsch UFO murals, spaceships, plastic green aliens and even (a now defunct) toy train.

 

There is a journal on display where visitors can record suspicious sightings by way of colourful lights that move and change shape, descend behind trees and quickly disappear; some of which have even followed cars.

 

Sceptics put it all down to aircraft and weather phenomena (or a few too many schooners at the pub), while believers think it’s Wycliffe Well’s geographical location and intense energy that draws these unique visitors in. Others think there’s a link to the nearby US military intelligence base Pine Gap. Whatever the reason, there have been no abductions… yet.

Australia's UFO capital.
Welcome to Australia’s UFO capital.

Hutt River, WA

As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, Hutt River monarch, Prince Graeme Casley, made the decision to rejoin the Commonwealth of Australia as a result of “harsh times". However, that shouldn’t stop us from learning about Australia’s biggest Independent Sovereign State.

 

In 1970, the 7500-hectare wheat farm was seceded from Australia after its owner, the late Leonard George Casley (AKA His Royal Highness Prince Leonard the First), had disputes with the then state government over wheat quotas.

 

Prior to August 2020, the Hutt (population 26) was open to tourists who would come to visit the museum, see the ‘royal art collection’, have their passport stamped, and to meet members of the royal family.

Hutt River
Enter Hutt River – Australia’s oldest micro nation.

William Creek, SA

Dry, dusty and sparse – three words that are excellent for describing the outback. And the lengthy look down the Oodnadatta, which seems almost endless from William Creek in far northern South Australia, isn’t too far from that description either.

 

With a population of three permanent residents and two workers, William Creek is officially the smallest town in South Australia. Despite that, it’s situated smack in the middle of the world’s largest working cattle property, Anna Creek Station, which is almost half the size of Tassie.

 

William Creek also has the world’s most isolated pub, which offers a surprising variety of services, including joy flights.

William Creek from the air scenic flight
Book your Wrightsair scenic flight over William Creek (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Victoria Settlement, NT

The Victoria Settlement was perhaps the first serious European settlement attempt in northern Australia. Established 1838 and disbanded 1849, the site was brought about by a plan of the British government and the East India Company to set up a military base and a point for shipping through Torres Strait.

 

Sadly, it quickly became known as ‘The Forsaken Settlement’, as nearly every single person who lived here died – though that didn’t stop the English from trying to settle the area again… and again. Eventually they succeeded nearby, with Darwin. Fifth time lucky.

 

Located in the now-dubbed Cobourg Peninsula in the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, Victoria Settlement ruins are accessible only by boat (tours are available, book well in advance) and a permit is required to enter the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park.

Victoria Settlement.
What remains of Victoria Settlement.

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Cook, SA

Named after the sixth Prime Minister of Australia, Joseph Cook, Cook is home to a number of spooky landmarks worthy of a pit stop.

 

It is home to the longest stretch of straight railway in the world, extending for around 478 kilometres from Ooldea to Loongana. It is the only scheduled Nullarbor Plain stop for the Indian Pacific passenger train across Australia, and curious visitors are welcome to wander the ‘living ghost town’.

 

Despite the silence, Cook’s atmosphere is alive and well via a number of eerie abandoned buildings. The bush hospital keeps medical supplies in case of a train accident, signposted with the amusing catch cry: “If you’re crook come to Cook."

 

The handful of railroad working residents are a friendly bunch. Stop for a yarn and they may sell you a souvenir; official Nullarbor crossing certificates go for a fiver.

Cook South Australia
Cook is home to a number of spooky landmarks.

Gwalia, WA

The abandoned mining town of Gwalia is so off-the-beaten-track, that we – an authority in domestic travel – are yet to even write anything about it. Don’t hold that against us though.

 

It’s a trifecta of uniqueness that includes history, solitude and views. Gwalia is a living ghost town that once housed a young Herbert Hoover, former President of the US, on a geology expedition. Hoover was sent to WA to oversee burgeoning mining operations in 1897 and chose to set up shop in Gwalia, 230 kilometres north-east of Kalgoorlie.

 

The Sons of Gwalia mine closed down in 1963 and the population departed, leaving the town’s remains to serve as a living museum of one of Australia’s most successful mines.

mining town of Gwalia.
The abandoned mining town of Gwalia.

Coober Pedy, SA

We hope this isn’t the first time you’re hearing about Australia’s opal capital. Far removed from the rest of the country, this delightfully strange place has a varying population from around 2000 to 4000, with 45 different nationalities.

 

After opals were discovered here in 1915, the Coober Pedy community got innovative and built their town underground. Four out of five residents live below the surface, and many dwellings come complete with swimming pools and entertainment rooms.

 

The stark landscape surrounding Coober Pedy, including the 40 kilometres or so in every direction that’s dotted with shafts and mullock heaps from opal workings, has formed the backdrop for films like Mad Max III, Priscilla, Pitch Black and Red Planet. Learn all about it with a visit to one of the underground museums.

 

The best time of the year to visit is between April and October, when the weather is mild and the nights are cold. You take your chances rocking up in summer, when it can reach a scorching 45ºC and dust storms can blow in from nowhere without much warning.

Coober Pedy.
Go underground in Coober Pedy.

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White Cliffs, NSW

Usually living in the shadows of her more famous cousin in SA, White Cliffs proves there’s life underground elsewhere than in Coober Pedy.

 

Ever since roo shooters stumbled across a precious white opal here, a tight community of dreamers has called this deserted town home, with an estimated two-thirds of the 100 or so residents living underground to escape the lunar-level extremes.

 

While you’re here, go underground into a working mine with the Red Earth Opal Mine Tour and try your hand at uncovering a glittering gem. And, you can’t go past a stay at the Underground Motel, with its rabbit warren of ever-expanding dugouts that will have little ones running amok for hours mind-mapping the place. After a long drive it’s a subterranean oasis in the otherwise scorched tundra of the Strzelecki Desert.

White Cliffs
White Cliffs proves there’s life underground elsewhere.

A rude place, NT

Giving a place a weird name is a very Australian thing. However, nowhere does it quite like the Northern Territory.

 

Humpty Doo, Bing Bong, Fannie Bay, Mount Unapproachable, Aaaa Road, Boggy Plain, Dirty Water Billabong – these are just the tip of the iceberg for Territorians. And we’re not the only ones that think so.

 

English company ST&G’s Marvellous Maps has immortalised this hilarity via its Marvellous Map of Actual Australian Place Names. The map points out all the funny and rude names of locations across the nation – classy from afar, and very classy up close.

 

Check it out here.

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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

    Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

    Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

    1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

    Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park, just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

    Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

    2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

    Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole, open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

    Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
    Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

    The Tiwi Islands, a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

    Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

    A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
    Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

    4. Dine in Darwin

    Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets, Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets.

    Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

    A bowl of Laksa.
    Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

    5. Up close with Uluṟu

    The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

    There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

    A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

    6. Drive the Red Centre Way

    From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

    Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

    SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
    Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

    7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

    Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa. This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

    Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

    The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
    Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

    8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

    Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen.

    Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

    Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com