A feel-good road trip itinerary for South Australia

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What’s better than a road trip that crisscrosses beautiful wineries, incredible eateries and stunning scenery? Well, one that does as much good for your soul as it does the communities you traverse.

Plan a road trip through South Australia, taking in Adelaide, some incredible wine regions, and an island escape, and leaving behind a boost to local economies by throwing a case of your favourite vintage in the boot and grabbing supplies from local businesses on the road.

Day one: Arrive in Adelaide

Adelaide is nourished by the ample food bowls all set within a stone’s throw of the city limits. Naturally, this makes her a food-lovers paradise. From the amazing Adelaide Central Market to the internationally lauded restaurants, it’s tough to find a terrible meal in Adelaide. You’re here to pick up your rental car, assuming you’ve flown in from elsewhere, but you really ought to spend some quality (meal)time before you head for the highway.

Adelaidecentralmarket
Adelaide Central Market has everything from karkalla kimchi to espresso-rubbed Italian cheese.

Hot tip: While excellent eateries are prolific in the city, when you’re short on time, direct your Uber to Peel and Leigh streets, where you’ll find lively pubs, bars and cafes brimming with brio any day of the week.            

Stay: There is a great accommodation in Adelaide to suit every budget. Our tip? Stay close to the action at The Mayfair.

Rooftop drinks at The Mayfair Hotel.

Day two: Adelaide to the Adelaide Hills (45 minutes)

Set off early to make the most of your time in the Hills. The drive is short enough to grab your first coffee on the go and arrive ready for your second at FRED Eatery in Aldgate. Fortified, it’s time to designate a driver and set course for some cellar doors. Propagate your list of wineries as you see fit, but some worthy inclusions are always Unico Zelo , Shaw + Smith , and Pike & Joyce .

Add Pike & Joyce to your list of wineries

Hot tip: For a taste of the Bavarian, roll onto Hahndorf in time for lunch and roam the Lutheran-founded town where you can find delightfully kitsch German-ness and, if you’re organised enough, an incredible lunch at The Bridgewater Mill .

Stay: If you’re hankering for a luxe escape, book Sequoia at Mount Lofty House. For more humble digs, try a tiny house experience with Cabn .

Hahndorf is Australia’s oldest surviving German settlement

Day three: Adelaide Hills to Barossa Valley (50 minutes)

This world-renowned wine region is flush with 80 cellar doors from the big hitters such as Wolf Blass, Henschke Cellars and Jacob’s Creek to smaller producers where treasures await the curious. Naturally, with such fine vines, good food is inevitable, so you’ll find some exceptional dining here, too.

Hot tip: Before you set off tomorrow, you have time for one last Barossa highlight – if you’re open to a pre-dawn start to the day, that is. Barossa Valley Ballooning ascends into the sky above the valley for an exquisite perspective of this stunning region.

Sky high in the Barossa

Stay: A good option for families and groups, or if you decide to stay on for an extra day, is the contemporary but affordable Barossa Valley Apartments . For loftier lodgings, The Louise offers impeccable luxury.

Day four: Barossa to McLaren Vale (1 hour and 40 minutes)

Today you make the crossing to the southern side of Adelaide as you begin your journey toward Kangaroo Island. But it wouldn’t be sensible to bypass the pristine beaches and undulating vine-woven hills of McLaren Vale. Here wine and food go hand-in-hand with coastal pursuits of the Fleurieu Peninsula.

Hot tip: If you’re here for a good time, not a long time, condense a few experiences into one at the Chalk Hill Collective. The ideal spot to take in a couple of tastings and grab a bite, this is a clever collaboration between Never Never Distilling Co ., Chalk Hill Wines and Vera Pizza Oztalia. And… those views!

Condense a few experiences at Chalk Hill Collective.

Stay: It may be small, but this ‘Escapod’ is ultra-sleek. The Cadole Avalon at The Vineyard Retreat is a beauty from every angle.

Day five: McLaren Vale to Cape Jervis (1 hour) to Kangaroo Island (45 minutes)

If you happen to be departing the ’Vale on a Saturday, before you go, swing by the Willunga Farmers Market to stockpile some supplies for the crossing to Kangaroo Island.

It all happens at Willunga Farmers Market.

Hot Tip: SeaLink offers daily ferry services from Cape Jervis to Kangaroo Island. It’s best to check their website for prices and special offers, as they occasionally discount fares. As a rough guide, expect to pay around $98 for a vehicle and $74 per person, and be sure to book in advance.

Stay: From camping grounds to holiday rentals and luxury lodges, there’s accommodation to suit every traveller on the island.

Sealink takes you comfortably to Kangaroo Island.

Day six: Kangaroo Island

Awaken to beauty so absorbing you’ll make an impassioned pact with your travelling companion to return. The rugged beauty, crystalline waters and serene beauty of the island will keep you gushing.

Penneshaw Kangaroo Island
Drive the coast of the beautiful Kangaroo Island. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Hot tip: There’s so much to do on Kangaroo Island, it’s lucky you’ve pledged to return, as you won’t get to it all in just two days. Make sure, though, to visit Vivonne Bay with its dreamscape white-sand beach and enticing waters. Keeping to nature, a stroll around the Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch is imperative.

Vivionne Bay, Kangaroo Island.
Vivonne Bay, Kangaroo Island. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

But you have permission to temper all that fresh, coastal air with a trip to Kangaroo Island Spirits and some of the small island wineries. After all, it’s best to stay on theme.

Kangaroo Island Spirits, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Book a table in the Gin Garden to enjoy the Wild Gin. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

Stay: If your South Australian road trip calls for a grand finale, book this evening’s accommodation at Oceanview Eco Villas . These two elegantly appointed villas offer up restorative island outpost vibes with their clifftop locale.

Day seven: Kangaroo Island to Adelaide (4 hours)

As you make the return crossing from Penneshaw to Cape Jervis, reflect on the diverse beauty, inspiring locals and enduring spirit of South Australia. This itinerary is a welcome reminder, that while we’re often quick to book an overseas flight, some of the world’s most astonishing landscapes and attractions are just a road trip away.

Pennington Bay beauty on display.
Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat
Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.