A feel-good road trip itinerary for South Australia

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What’s better than a road trip that crisscrosses beautiful wineries, incredible eateries and stunning scenery? Well, one that does as much good for your soul as it does the communities you traverse.

Plan a road trip through South Australia, taking in Adelaide, some incredible wine regions, and an island escape, and leaving behind a boost to local economies by throwing a case of your favourite vintage in the boot and grabbing supplies from local businesses on the road.

Day one: Arrive in Adelaide

Adelaide is nourished by the ample food bowls all set within a stone’s throw of the city limits. Naturally, this makes her a food-lovers paradise. From the amazing Adelaide Central Market to the internationally lauded restaurants, it’s tough to find a terrible meal in Adelaide. You’re here to pick up your rental car, assuming you’ve flown in from elsewhere, but you really ought to spend some quality (meal)time before you head for the highway.

Adelaidecentralmarket
Adelaide Central Market has everything from karkalla kimchi to espresso-rubbed Italian cheese.

Hot tip: While excellent eateries are prolific in the city, when you’re short on time, direct your Uber to Peel and Leigh streets, where you’ll find lively pubs, bars and cafes brimming with brio any day of the week.            

Stay: There is a great accommodation in Adelaide to suit every budget. Our tip? Stay close to the action at The Mayfair.

Rooftop drinks at The Mayfair Hotel.

Day two: Adelaide to the Adelaide Hills (45 minutes)

Set off early to make the most of your time in the Hills. The drive is short enough to grab your first coffee on the go and arrive ready for your second at FRED Eatery in Aldgate. Fortified, it’s time to designate a driver and set course for some cellar doors. Propagate your list of wineries as you see fit, but some worthy inclusions are always Unico Zelo , Shaw + Smith , and Pike & Joyce .

Add Pike & Joyce to your list of wineries

Hot tip: For a taste of the Bavarian, roll onto Hahndorf in time for lunch and roam the Lutheran-founded town where you can find delightfully kitsch German-ness and, if you’re organised enough, an incredible lunch at The Bridgewater Mill .

Stay: If you’re hankering for a luxe escape, book Sequoia at Mount Lofty House. For more humble digs, try a tiny house experience with Cabn .

Hahndorf is Australia’s oldest surviving German settlement

Day three: Adelaide Hills to Barossa Valley (50 minutes)

This world-renowned wine region is flush with 80 cellar doors from the big hitters such as Wolf Blass, Henschke Cellars and Jacob’s Creek to smaller producers where treasures await the curious. Naturally, with such fine vines, good food is inevitable, so you’ll find some exceptional dining here, too.

Hot tip: Before you set off tomorrow, you have time for one last Barossa highlight – if you’re open to a pre-dawn start to the day, that is. Barossa Valley Ballooning ascends into the sky above the valley for an exquisite perspective of this stunning region.

Sky high in the Barossa

Stay: A good option for families and groups, or if you decide to stay on for an extra day, is the contemporary but affordable Barossa Valley Apartments . For loftier lodgings, The Louise offers impeccable luxury.

Day four: Barossa to McLaren Vale (1 hour and 40 minutes)

Today you make the crossing to the southern side of Adelaide as you begin your journey toward Kangaroo Island. But it wouldn’t be sensible to bypass the pristine beaches and undulating vine-woven hills of McLaren Vale. Here wine and food go hand-in-hand with coastal pursuits of the Fleurieu Peninsula.

Hot tip: If you’re here for a good time, not a long time, condense a few experiences into one at the Chalk Hill Collective. The ideal spot to take in a couple of tastings and grab a bite, this is a clever collaboration between Never Never Distilling Co ., Chalk Hill Wines and Vera Pizza Oztalia. And… those views!

Condense a few experiences at Chalk Hill Collective.

Stay: It may be small, but this ‘Escapod’ is ultra-sleek. The Cadole Avalon at The Vineyard Retreat is a beauty from every angle.

Day five: McLaren Vale to Cape Jervis (1 hour) to Kangaroo Island (45 minutes)

If you happen to be departing the ’Vale on a Saturday, before you go, swing by the Willunga Farmers Market to stockpile some supplies for the crossing to Kangaroo Island.

It all happens at Willunga Farmers Market.

Hot Tip: SeaLink offers daily ferry services from Cape Jervis to Kangaroo Island. It’s best to check their website for prices and special offers, as they occasionally discount fares. As a rough guide, expect to pay around $98 for a vehicle and $74 per person, and be sure to book in advance.

Stay: From camping grounds to holiday rentals and luxury lodges, there’s accommodation to suit every traveller on the island.

Sealink takes you comfortably to Kangaroo Island.

Day six: Kangaroo Island

Awaken to beauty so absorbing you’ll make an impassioned pact with your travelling companion to return. The rugged beauty, crystalline waters and serene beauty of the island will keep you gushing.

Penneshaw Kangaroo Island
Drive the coast of the beautiful Kangaroo Island. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Hot tip: There’s so much to do on Kangaroo Island, it’s lucky you’ve pledged to return, as you won’t get to it all in just two days. Make sure, though, to visit Vivonne Bay with its dreamscape white-sand beach and enticing waters. Keeping to nature, a stroll around the Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch is imperative.

Vivionne Bay, Kangaroo Island.
Vivonne Bay, Kangaroo Island. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

But you have permission to temper all that fresh, coastal air with a trip to Kangaroo Island Spirits and some of the small island wineries. After all, it’s best to stay on theme.

Kangaroo Island Spirits, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Book a table in the Gin Garden to enjoy the Wild Gin. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

Stay: If your South Australian road trip calls for a grand finale, book this evening’s accommodation at Oceanview Eco Villas . These two elegantly appointed villas offer up restorative island outpost vibes with their clifftop locale.

Day seven: Kangaroo Island to Adelaide (4 hours)

As you make the return crossing from Penneshaw to Cape Jervis, reflect on the diverse beauty, inspiring locals and enduring spirit of South Australia. This itinerary is a welcome reminder, that while we’re often quick to book an overseas flight, some of the world’s most astonishing landscapes and attractions are just a road trip away.

Pennington Bay beauty on display.
Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)