The top 12 emerging cultural experiences in Australia

hero media
From game-changing light installations to murals and festivals that tap into the essence of a place, arts and culture have the power to reveal a destination to itself and those who visit.

Journey with our writers as they take you into Australia’s top emerging cultural experiences from our 100 Emerging Destinations and Experiences series.

1. Art illuminates the beating heart of Australia

Travelling with: Imogen Eveson

The same red centre journey that sparked the idea for Bruce Munro’s smash-hit installation at Uluru included a stop at Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park. It, too, left a deep impression.

Some three decades later and seven years on from the debut of Field of Light, Munro has unveiled an immersive sound and light installation at Discovery Resorts – Kings Canyon , part of the final stages of a $20 million transformation that began not long after the property was acquired by G’day Group in 2021.

an aerial view of Kings Canyon
Brick red hues fill the outback landscape.

Light-Towers sees 69 two-metre-tall towers of solar-powered light pulse gently in the desert during sunrise, sundown and into the inky black of the night. A meditation on synaesthesia, connection and healing, the towers cycle through a spectrum of colours in response to a soundscape that reflects the musical diversity of many nations.

Wandering between them is a contemplative experience that works its magic softly and seeks to complement, but never upstage, the astounding natural environment it rests within. This is Munro’s creative expression of how the landscape makes him feel – joyful and connected – which he hopes will in turn resonate with visitors and prompt them to consider their own response.

solar-powered light towers in the desert
The Light-Towers installation is a magical sight to behold.

At the core of Light-Towers is the idea, posited by the book Gifts of Unknown Things by Lyall Watson, that Earth has a natural pulse that resonates at a rate of 69 beats per day. A heartbeat.

“And I’ve always associated the heart of Australia with this," says Munro. “This place has always given me those moments of reflection where I’ve felt this connection with the world around me."

scenic mountain views at Discovery Kings Canyon Resort
Scenic landscapes surround Discovery Kings Canyon Resort.

The installation is a reason to stay longer at Kings Canyon and explore the living landscape of Watarrka National Park. Tread lightly on half-billion-year-old rocks on the Rim Walk, see the abstract patterns cast by the land from above on a scenic helicopter ride or join a Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience.

Then retire to one of the resort’s newly refurbished Deluxe Rooms to soak your muscles in a freestanding bathtub with a view out to a rugged red escarpment. And it invites you to experience the Red Centre Way in a whole new light; between Field of Light and the new Wintjiri Wiru at Uluru, Alice Springs with its Parrtjima light festival and now Light-Towers, this classic outback road trip is emerging as something of a light installation art trail.

a deluxe suite with bathtub
Take advantage of the deluxe bathtub.

2. Soaking up change in Mullum

Travelling with: Lara Picone

I rarely do things that alarm my body, but it’s physiological panic stations as I plunge into a 9°C cold pool. I employ every trick my astonished brain can muster to endure two minutes of extremity-creeping chills. Then, I’m out, and into a warm mineral spa. The contrast makes my limbs fizz like a Berocca in a glass of water. Cold gives way to a post-adrenaline state of calm, allowing me time to soak in the magnesium-enriched water and my surroundings at Mullumbimby’s bathhouse, The Banya .

rooftop at The Banya
The Banya is a haven for relaxation. (Image: Kristian Beek)

Opened in December 2022, if one is ever compelled to force their body into a series of hot and cold sensations, The Banya is an agreeable place to do so. The space is well-styled to enhance a sense of unmitigated relaxation.

a waitress holding a green juice at The Banya
Nourish your body with a cleansing juice. (Image: Kristian Beek)

Polished green and white marble tiles line the plunge pool and spas; white-washed walls encircle the traditional woodfired sauna, punishingly hot steam room and bucket showers; and lounging nooks topped with terracotta pots conjure Mediterranean beach club vibes. Throughout, gentle Art Deco touches honour the original architecture of the 1920s former bank.

former bank with luxe Mediterranean vibes
The former bank has been reimagined with luxe Mediterranean vibes. (Image: Kristian Beek)

The Banya would make sense in Biarritz, Bali and nearby Byron Bay, yet it’s the last thing I’d expect to see in rural and alternative-leaning Mullumbimby. It draws a line in the sand, accelerating Mullumbimby’s inevitable gentrification.

a close-up photo of food at The Banya
Share amazing grazing plates. (Image: Kristian Beek)

Inspired by Russian bathhouse culture, The Banya encourages the social aspect of communal bathing, helping the community to feel welcome and included in the transformation of their hometown. Judging by their serene smiles, they’re embracing the benefits Mullum’s proximity to Byron will continue to attract. shaded day beds in The Banya
Lounge around on shaded day beds. (Image: Kristian Beek)

As Byron Bay has swelled with prosperity over the past few decades, spilling into the nearby towns of Bangalow and Brunswick Heads, Mullumbimby, just 20 minutes north, remained the final stronghold of affluence adverse hippie types. While gentrification has always been inevitable, it was taking its time. That was until The Banya opened, essentially drawing a line in the sand of what Mullumbimby was and what it will most certainly become.

Banya Bathhouse Pool View
Spend a day lazing by the pool. (Image: Kristian Beek)

You’ll pay: A very reasonable $60 for 90 minutes using the bathhouse facilities, but you’re welcome to stick around after your session for a bite, a massage or just to lounge about.

Where: 35–37 Burringbar Street, Mullumbimby. It’s just 20 minutes north of Byron Bay and 10 minutes west of Brunswick Heads.

3. Kickstarting Queensland’s outback for every generation

Travelling with: Quentin Long

The population of Julia Creek, the tiny outback town three hours east of Mount Isa swells from 400 to 3000 deliriously happy revellers over a weekend in April.

The Dirt n Dust Festival is a celebration of the Outback Queensland spirit. Festivalgoers can take on the Adventure Run – the mud bog obstacle is the highlight – and don their party frocks or fancy dress (after a quick scrub-up) for a day at the outback races. The party continues every night as cowboys battle broncs and bulls at the rodeo and music takes the party well into the night.

a horseback riding race in Outback Queensland
Witness the horseback race in Outback Queensland. (Image: Queensland Destination Events Program)

The outrageous Australia’s Best Butt competition anoints a duo of cheeky winners after two nights of tushy shaking. While the festival is a world of fun, it is crucial for the long-term health of the local community; it brings the town a much-needed injection of funds at the end of a long, quiet summer. And more importantly, Dirt n Dust is managed by and attracts the next generation of outback community leaders who will carry the spirit of Queensland’s outback forward.

While Dirt n Dust kicks off the season, the entire outback winter calendar is crammed with events. Highlights include the Outback Festival (biannual September school holidays), Festival of Outback Opera (Winton and Longreach in May; below), Birdsville Big Red Bash (July), Boulia Camel Races (July) and Mount Isa Rodeo (August).

violinists performing during the outback opera
Experience the Outback Opera under an endless sky. (Image: Jade Ferguson/@VisualPoetsSociety)

4. WA’s next big festival

Travelling with: Fleur Bainger

The two-year-old Fine Vines Festival in Margaret River is the exuberant wild child of wine festivals, shaking up what’s possible with its gleeful grassroots approach.

guests dining in the forest
Simply settle in for a sundowner. (Image: Lauren Trickett Photography)

For starters, there’s a fierce focus on natural and garage winemakers, plus a deliberate effort to open up wineries that have no cellar doors (and therefore, usually can’t be visited), opening farm gates that are otherwise closed. There are also one-off dinners, tastings and art events in barrel rooms you’d never usually see.

Billed as ‘the insider’s insider tour’, The Somm Trek – in which a sommelier leads 20 guests through five vineyards normally inaccessible to the public – is already sold out. Instead, try Mozzarella in the Cellar, combining mozzarella-making with a wine masterclass, or Wine on the Water, where whale-watching and vino-sipping collide. It’s all happening 20–29 October.

Blue Manna staff smiling in front of the camera
Get acquainted over a glass of wine.

5. An old Tasmanian town with new prospects

Travelling with: Elspeth Callender

Queenstown, on the West Coast of lutruwita/Tasmania, is in the process of reinventing itself while also working hard to maintain and celebrate its unique identity. We’re all invited to be part of this evolution.

Thousands of generations of people of the South West Nation sustained the health of this area’s buttongrass plains, sparkling waterways, cool temperate rainforest and pink-tinged conglomerate peaks.

Then, in the 1890s, capitalist greed blundered in with its clear felling, pyritic smelting and sulphurous rain. By 1900, Queenstown was an established mining centre of the region. It stayed that way until the Mt Lyell Mine closed in 2014.

a woman exploring an art gallery
Visit The Unconformity biennial arts festival.

On approach to Queenstown from nipaluna/Hobart on a sweeping Gormanston bend, looms what was once the Royal Hotel in Linda. Since last drinks were poured in 1952, it’s been stripped of everything but its potential. The adjacent relocated Hydro building is now Linda Cafe.

From there, a snaking section of the Lyell Highway, called ‘the road of 99 bends’, crests between the shoulders of Mt Lyell and Mt Owen and switchbacks down into Queenie where you’ll find the town’s first-ever wine bar: Moonscape.

Outdoor adventure companies such as RoamWild, King River Rafting and the main Franklin River rafting operators aren’t trying to build lodges in the World Heritage Area but be agents for conservation. The town’s new mountain-biking network includes beginner and double-black diamond trails.

Artists have always been in Queenie, but creative expression is more accepted these days. There are multiple mural spaces and art galleries, a graphic design studio on Orr Street and various artist-in-residence programs. Printmaking collective PressWEST now exists within a former primary school.

The Unconformity biennial arts festival takes place from 19–22 October this year. As always, it invites artists from anywhere to interrogate Queenstown’s past through site-specific works and encourages visitors to take a scenic drive and be part of the town’s ongoing journey.

a car driving along Queenstown on the road of 99 bends
Travel into Queenstown on the road of 99 bends. (Image: Jason Charles Hill)

6. Head back to Ballarat

Travelling with: Jo Stewart

If you haven’t been to Ballarat in a while, prepare to be surprised. An enduring school excursion and family holiday favourite (thanks to longstanding attractions such as Sovereign Hill and Kryal Castle), Ballarat has matured into a city where timeworn traditions are honoured in new ways.

exterior view of Ballarat Railway Station
Ballarat Railway Station opened in 1862.

Opened in late 2022, the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades is giving people from all over Australia a solid reason to revisit Victoria’s largest inland city. Riding a wave of interest in keeping traditional arts, crafts and trades alive, the hub is welcoming visitors to learn skills that have fallen by the wayside over the years.

funky street art along Ballarat
The streets are outfitted with funky street art.

Ever wondered how to plait straw into traditional harvest knots? How about crafting your own split cane fly-fishing rod or traditional English-style, horn-nocked self-longbow? (With reverse-twisted, Flemish-looped bowstrings, of course.)

If you hadn’t already guessed, there’s nothing paint-by-numbers about these workshops. After being taught by masters of the trade, you’ll walk away with much more than technical skills – you’ll get a geography, culture and history lesson too.

a dinner setup for two at Ellington’s Wine Bar
Enjoy dinner for two at Ellington’s Wine Bar.

Elsewhere in town, new eateries open every month. Newcomers include Euro-inspired Ellington’s Wine Bar , old-world degustation experience Peasant and Earls Deli, which shares a building with sustainable community housing built by a not-for-profit. Earls takes the basics (sandwiches, condiments, coffee) and makes them shine. Try a classic Reuben sandwich or a culinary mashup such as a cacio e pepe toastie. The deli is easy to spot thanks to the restored jelly crystals sign on the wall above, a nod to a historic local business that may be gone but hasn’t been forgotten.

smoked paprika dish at Peasant
Divine delights at Peasant. (Image: Alphaville Publishing Services)

7. Wintjiri Wiru lights up the skies at Uluru

Travelling with: Elizabeth Whitehead

There’s no magic quite like the glittering desert skies. But Wintjiri Wiru is the new light show set to take Uluru’s nightscapes to a new level of brilliance from May. The sky will become a canvas for the telling of an ancestral Anangu story, brought to life by more than 1000 drones and recordings in Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara languages.

Ancient storytelling meets modern technology to recount the Mala story about a feud between the Mala people and the Wintalka men. The signature experience will be accompanied by a sunset dinner, after which you’ll settle into an open-air desert theatre and wait for the show to begin.

a spectacle of lights at Wintjiri Wiru Uluru
Don’t miss out on Uluru’s newest spectacle.

8. A festival for grown-ups in Adelaide

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Harvest Rock is a music festival for people who’ve outgrown dusty mosh pits, long lines at the bar and overflowing loos, drawing crowds in for its rock-star chefs as much as its actual rock stars.

The inaugural 2022 festival saw headliners such as Jack White, Crowded House and Khruangbin share top billing with arkhé’s Jake Kellie, who cooked up a feast of flame-grilled share plates paired with wines selected by renowned critic Nick Stock.

Elsewhere, punters could find natural winemakers hosting tastings and an entire bar devoted to non-alcoholic options. Add to that a central location in the leafy parklands and plenty of space to move around. It’s the perfect festival for people who appreciate a boogie and a good meal but want to wake up feeling good the next morning.

a crowded concert venue at Harvest Rock Music Festival
Dance at the Harvest Rock Music Festival.

9. Get exclusive access to Australia’s cultural assets

Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

Money-can’t-buy experiences can, in fact, be bought, thanks to Cultural Attractions of Australia. This collective of the country’s most iconic galleries, sporting grounds and performing arts venues has tailor-made experiences that everyday folk wouldn’t otherwise have access to.

Derek Oram Sandy performing at QAGOMA
Witness the cultural performance of Derek Oram Sandy at QAGOMA. (Image: Lewis James Media)

Imagine viewing masterpieces in Canberra’s National Gallery of Australia when the doors are locked to the general public. Or spending an exclusive evening immersed in Indigenous art and dining at Brisbane’s QAGOMA. What about gaining behind-the-scenes access to the players’ rooms and inside the century-old scoreboard at Adelaide Oval?

It’s also worth splashing some cash on a private dinner under the 24-metre blue whale skeleton at WA Museum Boola Bardip in Perth.

Australia's remarkable cultural assets
Ramingining artists, The Aboriginal Memorial, 1987-88, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra, purchased with the assistance of funds from National Gallery admission charges and commissions in 1987. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

10. The rise and rise of regional galleries

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

Kunmanara Carroll was a Luritja, Pintupi and Pitjantjatjara man based in Pukatja/Ernabella in the Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands of South Australia. Until his passing in 2021, Carroll worked with clay and paint to form artworks that told stories about his ancestors, culture and identity.

a visit to Bundanon
A visit to Bundanon is an immersive experience. (Image: Rory Gardiner)

A series of these earthy, organic vessels form part of the upcoming Kunmanara Carroll: Ngaylu Nyanganyi Ngura Winki (I Can See All Those Places) exhibition to be featured this year at the Shepparton Art Museum (SAM), which opened its doors in November 2021.

The artworks on show in the new $50 million Denton Corker Marshall-designed SAM are emblematic of the dynamic gallery scene now flourishing in regional Australia.

a Beyond Painting exhibition by Ari Bayuaji
Beyond Painting is a group exhibition that is part of the 2023 SECCA program. (Image: Ari Bayuaji)

The newly transformed Central Goldfields Art Gallery in Maryborough is another cultural attraction drawing visitors to regional Victoria. The gallery reopened in March 2023 with the headline exhibition Ladder to the Stars: Dean Bowen Sculptures after undergoing a $2.28 million upgrade.

the exterior of Ngununggula Gallery
Ngununggula Gallery has become another reason for art lovers to explore the Southern Highlands. (Image: Zan Wimberley)

The reimagined 19th-century fire station is worth a visit in its own right. There is also a vibrant arts scene unfolding in the Bega Valley with the South East Centre for Contemporary Art (SECCA), the latest place-making attraction in regional NSW following the double-whammy openings of Bundanon and Ngununggula, Southern Highlands Regional Gallery in recent years.

The state-of-the-art SECCA gallery is set to open its doors soon after a major $3.5 million redevelopment and expansion. The art centre will be dedicated to nurturing local talent and acknowledging First Nations people while providing a platform for artists to express their diverse political, social and cultural beliefs. Whether classic, contemporary, cool or creative, gallery-hopping is an inspired way to connect an ever-widening audience of art lovers with regional communities. We’re all for it.

the Central Goldfields Art Gallery inside Maryborough’s old fire station
Maryborough’s old fire station is now home to the Central Goldfields Art Gallery. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

11. Street art comes out from underground

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

You know the graffiti movement has gone global when it cements itself in the regional NSW town of Griffith. Head to Banna Lane in its backstreets to find a wall of works that includes a striking rendition of painted honeyeaters signed by artist Thomas Jackson.

The UK-born Australian artist draws inspiration from nature to paint large-scale murals of wildlife listed as vulnerable species.

a woman looking at a Katherine Street Art
Explore Katherine Street Art. (Image: Tourism NT/Elise Derwin)

There is a long-held tradition of street artists acting as social commentators to present their interpretation of the world and what they see as important. And there are great examples of street art providing more context to the built environment everywhere from Newcastle to Dubbo, Kiama, Perth, Shepparton and Katherine.

the banna lane festival
The Banna Lane Festival has brightened up Griffith. (Image: Caitlin Withers)

Progressive councils across the country have recognised that life looks different when viewed through the eyes of a street artist and are now inviting them into public spaces to tell stories about their cultural identity. Our urban environments are all the better for it.

These intense layerings of paint on plaster or brick add more than splashes of colour to the edges of society’s broader fabric. It’s an expansive, albeit ephemeral, archive of people and community.

the Perth street art scene at Banna Lane 2022
The Perth street art scene even has its own Instagram handle: @perthstart. (Image: Caitlin Withers)

12. Live la dolce vita in Cairns

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

Salami operates as its own currency in Tropical North Queensland. And visitors to this year’s Cairns Italian Festival will get to decide which homemade version is the best at the Salami and Sausage Competition.

a spectacular fireworks dispaly
Watch the spectacular fireworks display. (Image: Mark Bennett Fine Art Photography)

Feasting, folk dancing, fireworks, cooking classes and cultural talks are at the heart of the 10-day festa, set to return for its second year in 2023. The festival is a celebration of the influence of many Italian migrants, including my late nonno and nonna, who came to TNQ in search of a better life.

a crowded venue at Cairns Italian Festival
Participate in the annual Cairns Italian Festival.

Highlights of the festival include Opera on the Reef, Carnevale Gala Ball and La Festa, where you can purchase everything from handcrafted biscuits to sweet, rich passatas.

coastal suburb in Cairns City
Soak up coastal views in Cairns.
Keep reading our 100 Emerging Destinations and Experiences series for more.

This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park
Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset
Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate
Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western
Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree
Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain
Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.