Revealed: Australia’s best road trip

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It’s right there in the name. Come to think of it, the name is somewhat of an understatement…

From Torquay to Allansford, a small town on the doorstep of Warrnambool, the 243-kilometre Great Ocean Road in Victoria is a highlight reel of dramatic cliffs, windswept beaches, lush rainforest, abundant wildlife and, of course, almighty views over the Southern Ocean.

A recent study by Youi has revealed it is the most popular road trip in Australia, with 39 per cent of respondents ranking it their favourite. Here’s a road trip itinerary to make the most of this great Australian icon.

Day 1: Torquay to Apollo Bay

Distance: 1 hour and 50 minutes/92 kilometres

A touch over 100 kilometres from Melbourne’s Tullamarine Airport, Torquay marks the Great Ocean Road’s official launch point. But no need to rush. It would be remiss to leave without indulging in Torquay’s star attraction – its beaches. For a dip, hit up Front Beach or Jan Juc, or for a glimpse of an aquatic icon, head south for Bells Beach, host of the annual Rip Curl Pro.

Stretching 44 kilometres from Torquay to Aireys Inlet, the Surf Coast Walk is another way to take in this spectacular region. The multi-use trail has 12 sections for those not in the mood for a literal marathon effort. This map will help you find your preferred route.

Bells Beach Great Ocean Road
Hit the surf at Bells Beach.

For lunch, you’re in for a treat, but there’s a crucial decision to be made: seafood or Spanish cuisine. In Anglesea, a leisurely 12-minute drive from Bells, Fish by Moonlite , offers the freshest seafood you can find. Alternatively, tack on an extra 30-minute drive to reach Lorne, another picturesque seaside town (of course!).

The drive to Apollo Bay is a particularly impressive stretch of this famous road with wild beaches rollicking below your clifftop route.

Great Ocean Road Anglesea
Drive to Anglesea for fresh seafood.

Hint

If you’d prefer a more casual (yet entirely quintessential) lunch, grab fish ‘n’ chips and enjoy beachside in Lorne.

Must see

Perched 40 metres above Fairhaven Beach, about 15 minutes south of Anglesea, Pole House is an architectural wonder. Pull over for a cheeky look or, better still, add another day to your itinerary and stay the night.

the exterior view of The Pole House Fairhaven
Take yourself to the edge of Australia in this seemingly suspended house.

Where to stay

Seafearers Getaway – Stylish studios, units and lodges with a mesmerising beachfront location.

Chris’s Beacon Point – A sophisticated, not to mention convenient, choice after dining in the acclaimed restaurant.

Day 2: Apollo Bay to Port Campbell

Distance: 2 hours and 5 minutes/123 kilometres (including detour to Cape Otway)

Grab breakfast in Apollo Bay before starting day two on a high with a visit to the lush Otway National Park and the Cape Otway Lightstation . Built in 1848, the lighthouse is the oldest on mainland Australia and, on the other side of a 90-metre climb, offers commanding views of the Bass Strait and Southern Ocean.

Twelve Apostles Great Ocean Road
The Twelve Apostles are a geological marvel.

Back on the Great Ocean Road, it’s showtime as the Twelve Apostles come into view. These craggy limestone stacks, dramatically piercing the ocean, are a geological marvel, shaped by 20 million years of wind and waves. There are only seven apostles today, but the sight is still striking. There are numerous lookouts from which to snare a vantage point while the Gibson Steps will put you on the sand and under the towering formations.

Just a few minutes west, Loch Ard Gorge offers a network of walking trails to help further explore the coastal wilderness.

Loch Ard Gorge Great Ocean Road
Loch Ard Gorge offers a network of walking trails.

Must see

Impressive at any time of day, the 12 Apostles are particularly magic at sunrise or sunset.

Where to stay

Anchors – Three self-contained villas combining the tranquillity of a rural getaway with five-star touches.

Sea Foam Villas – Light and comfortable apartment-style accommodation a stone’s throw from the water.

Day 3: Port Campbell to Warrnambool

Distance: 62 kilometres

What is a road trip without a banging playlist? And what’s a banging playlist without a little Beyoncé? We recommend Queen Bey’s hit Formation as a fitting preparation for day three, which starts with more of Mother Nature’s grand rock monuments: The Arch, London Bridge and The Grotto.

London Bridge Great Ocean Road
London Bridge will leave you in awe.

Then it is on to the Bay of Islands Coastal Park, a 32-kilometre-long beauty starting just beyond Port Campbell at Peterborough. Although overshadowed by their famous neighbour, the Bay of Islands and Bay of Martyrs also inspire displays of towering limestone stacks.

The Great Ocean Road officially ends at Allansford, but extend the drive by just 12 minutes for the brighter lights of Warrnambool. If you’re travelling between June and September, be sure to head to the viewing platforms at Logans Beach for the chance to spot the migrating southern right and blue whales. With views to write home about (or, let’s be honest, brag about via Instagram), it’s got to be Simon’s Waterfront for dinner and a toast to this unforgettable coastline.

The Grotto Great Ocean Road
The Grotto is one of Mother Nature’s creations.

Hint

If time allows, a wee detour to Timboon will be much appreciated by any foodies in your touring party. Stop in at Timboon Distiller y for lunch or dinner on the deck of a boutique distillery. Modern Australian cuisine and daytime cafe food served in a boutique distillery with deck seating.

Where to stay

Lady Bay Resort  – Contemporary accommodation on the picturesque bay.

Quest Warnambool – Comfortable apartment-style hotel conveniently located on Warnambool’s main street.

Want to know more? Read our ultimate travel guide to the Great Ocean Road.

Kate Symons
Kate Symons is a freelance writer with a particular passion for uncovering the people that make the place. On assignments near and far, she observes and absorbs, waiting for that satisfying moment when the story lede - the tale that is sure to entice - presents itself.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park
Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset
Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate
Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western
Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree
Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain
Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.