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20 best towns in Victoria to visit now

Credit: Visit Victoria

Editor Editor
These towns have just been ranked the best in Victoria.

Whether you’re a foodie, festival addict or outdoor adventurer, Victoria’s diverse array of towns will no doubt dazzle you – if you let them. We’ve put together a list of the 20 best towns in Victoria to visit this year, based on Australian Traveller’s industry-judged 100 best Aussie towns to visit list.

1. Port Fairy

Overall rank: 4/100

Maar Country

crowds at the Port Fairy Folk Festival
Port Fairy Folk Festival, aka ‘the Folkie, celebrates creativity and togetherness. (Credit: Lucinda Goodwin)

Expect the ratio of bushranger beards and pixie haircuts to spike during the annual Port Fairy Folk Festival, which is a highlight on Victoria’s cultural calendar. From its 1977 beginnings, the folk festival now fills the Labour Day weekend in March with music, markets and roving performances. The town at the western end of the Great Ocean Road also has year-round appeal, boasting picturesque waterfront, streets lined with 19th-century cottages and cruises to see the seal colony on nearby Lady Julia Percy Island. As panellist Catriona Rowntree says, Port Fairy is “secretly everyone’s favourite town on the Great Ocean Road."

the Port Fairy waterfront
This little town by the sea is much-loved for its strong community spirit. (Credit: Belinda Van Zanen Media)

Don’t miss: Lunch at Pippies by the Bay and a stay at the newly opened Basalt Retreat.

2. Beechworth

Overall rank: 10/100

Baarmutha

the Beechworth township from above
Beechworth is one of Victoria’s most charming towns. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Steeped in rich gold-rush history, you’ll find Beechworth tucked into the rolling green folds of Victoria’s High Country. The past and present intertwine in this little slice of paradise, where historic streetscapes blend seamlessly with cosy cafes pouring top-notch coffee.

the exterior of Beechworth Bakery
The legendary Beechworth Bakery anchors the town’s vibrant food scene. (Credit: Getty/ FiledIMAGE)

While undeniably easy on the eye, the town’s natural surrounds are more than just a pretty backdrop. Fertile soils produce locally grown fare in abundance, from organic wines and artisanal cheeses to its world-famous honey.

Don’t miss: A carb-loaded brunch at much-loved Beechworth Bakery – “One of the best bakeries in the country; you have to get the Ned Kelly Pie!" says panellist Rae Johnston.

3. Lorne

Overall rank: 11/100 

Gadubanud Country 

Lorne dining
From pubs to eateries, Lorne has the ultimate Great Ocean Road foodie escape. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Lorne has long traded on its good looks. But the seaside town along Victoria’s Great Ocean Road is also building a reputation for what’s on the plate as much as the roaring surf and limestone sentinels offshore. Just two hours from Melbourne, it draws day-trippers for its polished pubs, bakeries, bars and ambitious eateries such as IPSOS Restaurant & Bar. Factor in a few coastal walks and hinterland drives between all that wining and dining. 

Don’t miss: “The sweeping coastal drive to Lorne is almost as memorable as the destination itself," recommends panellist Rae Johnston. 

4. Daylesford

Overall rank: 12/100

Dja Dja Wurrung Country 

The Spa at Lake House in Daylesford
Head to The Spa at the Lake House for a full sensory escape. (Credit: Visit Victoria / Robyn Lea)

With its soothing mineral waters and bucolic beauty, Daylesford and nearby Hepburn Springs really do emphasise the long and languid ahhh in spa. Here you’ll find a good handful of places to sink into wellness rituals, including the recently renovated Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa, which has been reviving souls since 1895, and The Spa at much-celebrated Lake House. “Lake House is a must to stay and dine at; the town is also super cute," says panellist Anna Polyviou. Indeed, if you like your wellness with a side of indulgence, there are plenty of great restaurants in this charming former gold-rush town.

dining at Sault Restaurant
Sault showcases regional produce straight from the restaurant’s own kitchen garden. (Credit: Ben Savage)

Don’t miss: Restaurants Bistro Terroir and Sault, as well as a walk through the Wombat Hill Botanic Gardens for a well-rounded escape.

5. Meeniyan

Overall rank: 27/100 

Gunaikurnai & Bunurong Country 

Trulli Outdoors
A stop at Trulli Outdoors for woodfired pizza is a must. (Credit: Grind Media)

Meeniyan might be read as a blink-and-you-miss-it stop on Gippsland’s food and wine trail. But exploring the modest village panellist Irene Jones describes as “tiny but surprisingly trendy" feels like an epicurean’s own adventure. Start at Mahob at Moo’s, then move on to woodfired pizza at Trulli Outdoors. Stock the esky at The Meeniyan Store with cheeses, condiments and preserves that catch your fancy. 

Don’t miss:  A pie from Pandesal Bakery, a tasty reason to pull over on your way to Wilsons Promontory. 

6. Torquay

Overall rank: 30/100

Wadawurrung Country 

surfing in Torquay, Vic
Hit the epic surf breaks along this picturesque coast. (Credit: Tourism Australia / Cameron Murray/Assemble Agency)

Surfers know that immersion in the ocean is its own kind of wellness ritual, and Torquay has always been a beacon for wave riders. So it makes sense that this Great Ocean Road town is starting to plump out its wellness offerings to dovetail nicely with its already-wholesome ocean-sprayed lifestyle. A treatment at one of the area’s spas makes a lovely bookend to days spent taking in the scenery along the Great Ocean Walk and diving into Torquay’s reviving waves.

Don’t miss: The shopping! “Is it OK to say I go to Torquay to shop?" asks panellist Catriona Rowntree. “It’s so cool! Surfing’s heartland is also home to its OG brands – psst, the luggage at surf shops is 11/10!"

7. Geelong

Overall rank: 34/100

Wadawurrung Country

lifeguard bollards in Geelong
Lifeguard bollards, part of the iconic Bollard Trail in Geelong. (Credit: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

Geelong’s events calendar spans the southern hemisphere’s largest keelboat regatta, a national cycling race and steady run of exhibitions and festivals. Curled around Corio Bay, the city is home to Geelong Football Club, founded in 1859. During AFL season – March to September – Geelong has a match-day energy that feels like a festival. As panellist Adrian Williams puts it, Geelong is “the only regional AFL team in the country that was part of the birth of football."

Geelong Gallery in Victoria
Discover decorative arts collections at the Geelong Gallery. (Credit: Cameron Murray)

Don’t miss: Trace the waterfront lined with galleries, restaurants and shops as it twists around Corio Bay, said to have inspired the navy-and-white Geelong Cats guernsey.

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8. Metung

Overall rank: 35/100

Gunaikurnai Country 

relaxing at bathing barrels in Metung Hot Springs
Soak in mineral-rich geothermal water at Metung Hot Springs. (Credit: Tourism Australia)

A four-hour-ish drive from Melbourne, this Gippsland beauty perches on glassy waters at the lake’s edge. Described as “quietly delightful" by panellist Brad Farmer, Metung’s serene aura elicits a physical unburdening of tension the moment you catch sight of the pretty township. Along the lake, you can take your wellness in myriad forms, from golfing and fishing to yachting, sunset strolling and slipping into hot springs.

Don’t miss: At Metung Hot Springs stay in glamping tents that take relaxation further with bathing barrels to slip into on your own private deck.

9. Ballarat

Overall: 50/100 

Wadawurrung Country  

art museum in Ballarat
Victorian charm and creative gold in historic Ballarat. (Credit: Matt Dune)

Tucked into Victoria’s gold-rush heartlands, heritage streetscapes meet a rebellious arts streak in Ballarat, a regional city shaped by its history of political defiance during the 1854 Eureka Stockade. This UNESCO City of Craft and Folk Art is home to the country’s oldest regional gallery. Victorian-era homes dot the boulevards, maintaining a charm you won’t find in many other Aussie towns. “All praise to the locals who fought to retain the heritage features of this town – now they’re hauling in hospitality gold," notes panellist Catriona Rowntree. While the Art Gallery of Ballarat is currently undergoing a renovation, the team has cleverly decamped to a pop-up on Mair Street, keeping the creative pulse alive.  

Don’t miss: Panning for gold at nearby Sovereign Hill, stargazing at the Ballarat Municipal Observatory and Museum, and a gin masterclass at Kilderkin Distillery. 

10. Bright

Overall rank: 52/100

Dhudhuroa, Taungurung, Waywurru, Gunaikurnai & Jaithmathang Country

Bright streetscape in autumn
The town’s streetscapes are dominated by fiery reds, oranges and yellows. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Some places are exactly what they say on the tin, and that sure is the case for Bright. Set amid Victoria’s High Country, the town shines year-round – but come the cooler months, it dials up the charm tenfold. As autumn arrives, hundreds of deciduous trees shed their leafy layers, but not before setting the streets ablaze in a glory of reds, oranges and yellows.

the Sixpence Coffee in Bright
Pick up a sweet treat at Sixpence Coffee. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Each year, the town celebrates this vibrant phenomenon with the Bright Autumn Festival, a 10-day homage to the autumnal tones of its foliage – as well as the region’s friendly community, local retailers and seasonal produce.

Don’t miss: The region’s under-the-radar ski slopes come winter. “Part of the Victorian ski fields, it is underrated and less commercial than some of the other ski locations," says panellist Paul Hamra.

11. Healesville

Overall rank: 57/100

Wurundjeri Country

Kangaroo Ridge Retreat, Healesville, Vic
Panoramic views from every vantage point at Kangaroo Ridge Retreat. (Credit: Dominey Flores)

“Once famous for its wildlife sanctuary, the ripple effect now offers brilliant food and wine alongside a calmer pace of life," says panellist Catriona Rowntree of this charming Yarra Valley town that has all the ingredients for the perfect weekend getaway. Dine in a converted cabinet makers factory at No.7 Healesville and stop in for a limoncello spritz at recently opened Zoncello Yarra Valley. Check into Kangaroo Ridge Retreat, where each mudbrick cabin features its own all-local wine bar and larder.

Don’t miss: Panellist Adrian Williams recommends checking out the platypus at Healesville Sanctuary, which he describes as one of Australia’s great zoos. While for panellist Paul Hamra, the Four Pillars Gin distillery is a standout experience.

12. Castlemaine

Overall rank: 60/100

Dja Dja Wurrung Country

The Mill in Castlemaine, Vic
The Mill serves as the creative heart of Castlemaine. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

It won’t take you long to tune into the pulse of this former gold-mining community with a big personality in central-west Victoria. Art aficionados and culture vultures alike will have a field day in Castlemaine, with almost every turn revealing a studio gallery, live music gig or artisan market.

Inside The Mill Das Kaffeehaus Castlemaine
Order authentic Viennese roast coffee at The Mill. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

For the indecisive traveller, panellist Catriona Rowntree has the perfect pick. “Try to plan your stay for the Shades of Gray exhibition; we go every year and have our creative cups filled." The annual event, held from 31 October to 8 November this year, sees locals Chelly and Peter Gray open their art-filled property to the public.

Don’t miss: A slow morning at The Mill, an arts precinct platforming local makers. Browse vintage fashion and antiques before joining a ceramics workshop or simply watching artists in residence as they work.

13. Rutherglen

Overall rank: 64/100 

Yorta Yorta Country 

Campbells Wines
A treasure trove for wine lovers. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Founded in the gold-rush era but best recognised as one of Australia’s oldest wine regions, Rutherglen is a treasure trove for vino lovers and history hunters alike. The region abounds in kitchens turning local produce into top-notch tucker, along with family wineries (such as Campbells Wines) that have been pouring fortified drops and robust reds for generations. Meanwhile, the Murray River and leafy surrounds invite outdoor exploration – from cycling, kayaking and birdwatching to ambling past rolling vineyards. 

Don’t miss: The Rutherglen leg of Victoria’s Pedal to Produce Cycle Trail for a gourmet journey sampling wine, fruit and produce at picture-perfect orchards and cellar doors. 

14. Echuca Moama

Overall rank: 65/100 

Yorta Yorta Country 

historic wharf precinct at the Port of Echuca
Strolling the historic wharf precinct at the Port of Echuca. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Straddling Victoria and NSW on the Murray River, this sleepy twin-town destination packs a punch for foodie travellers lured by quality produce. Once a key trade route and bustling paddlesteamer hub, it now delights with local eateries, boutique shops, farmers’ markets and river experiences that panellist Irene Jones sums up as “paddlesteamer nostalgia done right." It will soon be home to Australia’s first five-star overnight paddlesteamer, PS Australian Star, set to add a splash of luxury to this family-friendly hideaway.  

Don’t miss: Strolling the historic wharf precinct and taking to the water – kayak, waterski, board an authentic heritage paddlesteamer or extend the magic with a Murray River houseboat holiday.

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15. Halls Gap

Overall rank: 71/100

Djab Wurrung & Jardwadjali Country

hikers at Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park
Explore the rugged landscapes within Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park. (Credit: Ben Savage)

The jagged peaks of the Grampians/Gariwerd have been shaped over millennia. It’s a landscape that is home to some of Victoria’s largest waterfalls, deep rock pools and the highest number of Aboriginal rock art sites and shelters in southern Australia. In spring, swathes of wildflowers cover the rugged landscape. It’s a wildly beautiful place – “visually majestic," according to panellist Paul Hamra – and, at its heart, the quaint town of Halls Gap/Budja Budja is where you’ll find small stores, a brewery and winery cellar doors nearby.

the view from Halls Gap, Vic
Hike up the Halls Gap. (Credit: Tourism Tasmania)

Don’t miss: From town, you can embark on many walking tracks, including to the naturally formed Venus Baths, the 720-metre-high Pinnacle, Clematis Falls and more.

16. Bendigo

Overall rank: 74/100 

Dja Dja Wurrung Country 

Bendigo Tramways
Gold-rush heritage and cultural charm on the Bendigo Tramways. (Credit: Tourism Australia)

Recognised as a City of Gastronomy, Bendigo is a full-bodied cultural experience. You’ll find plenty to sink your teeth into, literally, but also first-rate galleries, such as the Bendigo Art Gallery and Post Office Gallery; architecture from the gold-rush era; and a thriving festival calendar. “Bendigo is becoming cool," affirms panellist Paul Hamra. “It’s also a great base to visit smaller local tourist towns like Kyneton, Castlemaine and Heathcote." Then there’s Dumawul Tours, which explores the city through the lens of First Nations storytelling. Bendigo is both composed and – thanks in part to La Trobe University’s Bendigo campus – unexpectedly lively; come for the food, stay for the art, and plot your return. 

Don’t miss: DJs at the Babylon Lounge & Garden Bar, which keep the tunes spinning until 3am. 

17. Sorrento

Overall rank: 79/100

Bunurong Country 

Sorrento Pier in Vic
Enjoy a coastal getaway in seaside Sorrento. (Credit: Jesse Hisco)

The Mornington Peninsula is rich in spa culture and sweet seaside Sorrento, with its elegant eateries and laid-back coastal tempo, makes a good base from which to explore it. Throw a spa slipper in any direction and you’ll hit a tranquil wellness experience, from Aurora Spa and Bathhouse to Alba Thermal Springs and Marlo Spa. Add some time on, in and by the water, and you’ll have a comprehensive wellness schedule.

the exterior of Hotel Sorrento, Vic
An Amalfi-style beachside stay awaits at Hotel Sorrento. (Credit: Kate Shanasy)

Don’t miss: “Sorrento is a great place for a family getaway with beaches, restaurants and relaxing. Go for the vanilla slice and fish and chips, also the Hotel Sorrento – I loved it there," says panellist Anna Polyviou.

18. Portsea

Overall rank: 80/100 

Bunurong Country 

cliff mansions in Portsea
Clifftop mansions exude luxury and style. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

You can drive the curve from Melbourne to Portsea in less than two hours, arriving at this last township on the Mornington Peninsula. This spectacular spot, on the edge of Point Nepean National Park, is well-known as a coastal haven of the ultra-rich. If you’re curious about how the top per cent of wealth is spent, gawk as you follow Millionaires’ Walk past meticulous gardens and stately mansions. Of course, it attracts money because it is simply breathtaking, but you needn’t manage a hedge fund to enjoy the beaches and national park. 

Don’t miss: Portsea is bequeathed with two coastlines, the bay side’s Front Beach and the ocean-edged Back Beach. “Sure, it gets way too busy, but having a front and back beach is super cool," says panellist Adrian Williams. 

19. Inverloch

Overall rank: 90/100 

Bunurong Country 

Couple walking dog on Inverloch Shared Pathway on the coast
Coastal views along Inverloch Foreshore Shared Pathway. (Credit: Nicky Cawood)

On route from Phillip Island to Wilsons Promontory, travellers find ample reason to pause in pretty Inverloch. Here, sheltered Anderson Inlet is frolic-worthy for everything from swimming to wakeboarding and windsurfing. Outside Point Smythe’s protective arm, accomplished surfers will appreciate the sets rolling in at Eagles Nest and Inverloch Surf Beach, while off-sand, there’s strollable cliffs, the Bass Coast Rail Trail and Bunurong Coastal Drive. The Gippsland village seems intentionally curated for lazy weekend mooching with worthy eateries and boutiques, but come the first weekend of August, the long-running Inverloch Jazz Festival tunes things up with plenty of jams. 

Don’t miss: “Inverloch is perfect in the summer holidays," says panellist Adrian Williams. If you’re taking the kids, lean into those carefree vibes with a stay at the Big4 Ingenia Holidays park, set right on Anderson Inlet. 

20. Mildura

Overall rank: 95/100 

Latji Latji, Ngintait & Nyeri Nyeri Country 

Bruce Munro’s mesmerising Trail of Lights
Bruce Munro’s mesmerising Trail of Lights illuminates Lock Island. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

Along the banks of the Murray, Mildura brims with creative energy. This “cute rural town with plentiful orange groves and strawberry picking," according to panellist Anna Polyviou, leans into its cultural mix: part orchard pantry, part regional gallery circuit, part festival hotspot. Renowned artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights on Lock Island threads 12,500 firefly lights and Gone Fishing sculptures along the riverfront, blending art with landscape. Across the water in Wentworth, his Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra (FOSO) installation adds immersive sound and light spheres. 

Don’t miss: A visit to Mildura Arts Centre for both its dynamic contemporary galleries and Rio Vista Historic House to inspect the glorious period details of its interiors. 

This article is part of Australian Traveller’s 100 best Aussie towns to visit, as chosen by a panel of industry experts, well-known Aussies and travel insiders. See our full list of 100 best Aussie towns here and visit the special 100 best Aussie towns hub here.

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Inside Geelong’s glow-up from factory town to creative capital

    Chloe Cann Chloe Cann
    Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated. 

    Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.  

    Geelong cellar door wine bar
    Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

    Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct 

    Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.  

    Paddock Bakery andPatisserie
    Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    At Paddock, one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand. 

    Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design 

    Paddock Bakery
    Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    “A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.  

    And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

    Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.  

    As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.  

    The rise of a food and wine destination  

    boiler house
    Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

    Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco. 

    Woolstore
    The Woolstore is a new restaurant and bar housed within a century-old warehouse. (Image: Amy Carlon)

     The Woolstore, one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.  

    Woolstore menu
    Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

    Breathing new life into historic spaces  

    On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.  

    “We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.” 

    Provenance Wines
    Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

    The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

    While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.  

    handcrafted pieces
    Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

    The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”  

    A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”  

    Elizabeth Bell
    Ceramicist Elizabeth Bell has a store in Fyansford Paper Mill.