Regional glow-ups: The towns and cities having their moment

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Regional towns and cities across Australia are having their moment, welcoming trendy eateries and upmarket hotels, giving us more reason to explore our backyard.

The local pub is more than a place to swill a beer. It is often the heart and soul of a community. A gathering place of familiar faces. The setting for core memories. Regional towns are often built around these institutions – and when the local pub is reinvented, so too is the entire community.

When last drinks were called at Kirra Beach Hotel in 2021, many of its salt-of-the-earth patrons farewelled their second home, marking the end of an era. The original pub, which opened in 1956, was bulldozed and a cool $380 million was injected into its resurrection. The humble low-rise hotel was replaced with a chic multi-storey complex designed by global architectural studio Woods Bagot featuring curves, natural stone and lush greenery.

The hotel is part of the larger Kirra Point precinct, which includes a stylish bar and restaurant on the first floor and premium holiday apartments above that. According to KTQ Group development director Jeremy Holmes, everyone is vibing to the “new Kirra rhythm". Slated as the Gold Coast’s hottest new destination, the first stage of Kirra Point “brought the Kirra Beach Hotel back to life", he says, while the second stage will “showcase the best of the southern Gold Coast all in one location". It will include a retail laneway with restaurants, a fresh food marketplace, wellness facilities and a separate luxury hotel with a rooftop pool and restaurant.

the pub interior of Kirra Beach Hotel
The pub remains a community hub.

Regional ‘glow-ups’ are a growing trend, according to the Unpack ’24  global consumer survey by Expedia Group. Some 34 per cent of Aussies express a desire to travel to a regional destination based on new openings of iconic restaurants and world-class hotels. On the list of hot-right-now regional destinations are Victoria’s Geelong (thanks to the Geelong Quarter food and beverage precinct), Lorne (which has welcomed Sydney institution Totti’s to its dining scene) and Bellingen in northern NSW (the latest locale for iconic restaurant Three Blue Ducks).

the Three Blue Ducksin Bellingen
Dine at the iconic Three Blue Ducks in beautiful Bellingen. (Image: Steven Woodburn)

NSW’s second-largest city, Newcastle, was also earmarked as a regional destination luring in travellers this year. The former industrial city has been riding a rollercoaster of renewal for decades, propelled by its unique drinking and dining scene.

the rooftop bar at QT Newcastle
Drink in great views from the Rooftop at QT. (Image: Mark Lane)

First came a string of multimillion-dollar makeovers of renowned pubs The Lucky Hotel , The Prince of Merewether and the 160-year-old Great Northern Hotel . These watering holes bid farewell to their beer-stained carpets and smoky pokie rooms for sleek interiors and local produce-led menus. Small bars and restaurants began to spring up thereafter, many in lovingly restored heritage spaces around the city.

the property exterior of The Prince of Merewether in Newcastle
The Prince of Merewether continues its reign in Newcastle. (Image: Shan Rose Photography)

But what really cemented Newcastle as a destination worth lingering in is the addition of luxury hotels in two of the city’s most iconic buildings in 2021 and ’22. The 1970s Brutalist-style building that once housed the council administrative offices was transformed into Crystalbrook Kingsley and the century-old former David Jones store on Hunter Street was reimagined as QT Newcastle.

the hotel suite at QT Newcastle
QT Newcastle retains the landmark building’s facade. (Image: Mark Lane)

Some 100 klicks down the freeway, the Central Coast is another region that has seen significant change in recent years. Much like Kirra and Newcastle, the beachside locale just north of Sydney has long been loved for its beaches, surf culture and scenery. Its beachside enclaves, such as Terrigal, have moved with the times, welcoming sophisticated restaurants and happening bars that could easily slot into a big city.

the dining table at Meribella, Terrigal
Meribella brings seaside chic to Terrigal. (Image: Kitti Gould)

Over in Gosford, the multimillion-dollar opening of Bon Pavilion (now Railway Hotel ) in 2019 reignited interest in the languishing CBD. The project was backed by entrepreneur John Singleton, who has long advocated for the city and continues to invest in its growth.

Shortly after, a glamorous $13-million Art Deco makeover of the century-old Hotel Gosford really gave locals new hope. Two years on, Gosford’s skyline is full of cranes – with developments including a new regional library, high-tech University of Newcastle campus and waterfront precinct. The most exciting addition is The Archibald, a $375-million development by ALAND that will feature a 130-room voco hotel by IHG and restaurant led by Sydney chef Dany Karam.

This glow-up is set to change the face of Gosford with ALAND founder and director Andrew Hrsto saying the development will “enliven the CBD" and “reposition Gosford as a major destination for holidaymakers".

Whether it be the reimagining of a local pub, a newly built hotel or a collective run by cool and clever tastemakers, here are the regional towns, cities and regions being given a glow-up.

1. Kirra, Queensland

A stone’s throw from Coolangatta, this southern Gold Coast enclave has shied away from attention, thanks to its boisterous neighbour Surfers Paradise taking much of the limelight. But holidaymakers in the know have long been lured by its chilled-out charm and world-class waves. Home to the famous Kirra Surfriders Club , which has fostered pros such as Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson, Kirra is a place rooted in surfing culture.

The addition of Kirra Point – comprising Kirra Hotel , chic restaurant and bar Kirra Beach House, and premium one- to three-bedroom holiday apartments above – has thrown the town into the spotlight. Sleek pan-Asian diner Billy Chow , mod-Oz beachside restaurant Siblings , boho-style cafe Love Street and premium bathhouse Native State are also worth a visit.

food and drinks at KirraBeach Hotel
Drink and dine at the revamped Kirra Beach Hotel.

2. Huon Valley, Tasmania

Just 40 minutes from Hobart, this is a region of incredible natural beauty, shaped by the Huon River, mountain ranges and tall forests.

the Huon River in southern Tassie
The region in southern Tassie is known for being a food bowl. (Image: Huon Valley Council)

Of late, this bucolic food bowl – known for its apples, cider, wine and salmon – has had an influx of new accommodation, tours and dining options, such as a soon-to-open diner by Analiese Gregory, The Kiln Eatery set in a restored oast house (a building designed for drying hops), and architecturally designed cabins at Hunter .

a table-top view of foof at The Kiln, Huon Valley
The Kiln is a hotspot in the Huon Valley.
the exterior of The Kiln in Huon Valley
The Kiln celebrates its agricultural heritage.

3. Townsville, Queensland

With a similar climate to Cairns, less rain and close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef, Townsville is a destination that has flown under the radar. Until now. With big-city offerings and a small-town feel, Townsville boasts a lush 2.5-kilometre waterfront promenade and a historic town centre, both brimming with cool places to eat and drink. In 2020, however, the multimillion-dollar transformation of its casino, now The Ville , introduced a luxe destination to stay and play.

Palm trees and beach in Townsville
It’s not hard to find the perfect oasis in Townsville. (Image: Tourism & Events Queensland)

Some four years on, the arrival of five-star hotel The Ardo next door has upped the ante even further. The city itself is also undergoing huge changes, namely with the redevelopment of the former Reef HQ – the world’s largest living coral reef aquarium – into a state-of-the-art educational, immersive and sustainable experience. The Global Great Barrier Reef Centre of Excellence will be the first of three new waterfront precincts for Townsville. Watch this space.

Views of the Coral Sea from the pool at Ardo in Townsville
Ardo has front-row seats to views of the Coral Sea. (Image: Simon Shiff)

4. Newcastle, NSW

By day, Newcastle’s sparkling coastline and charming ocean baths draw in those seeking sun and surf. Its thriving arts scene lures in creatives, from The Lock-Up contemporary art gallery in a 19th-century former police station, to the ever-expanding outdoor gallery (and correlating Big Picture street art festival) that has given beauty to formerly empty spaces. And, after dark, the city’s iconic pub and live music scene has been enriched by a flurry of small bars popping up in historic spaces that have been charmingly reimagined.

the Merewether Beach in Newcastle
Merewether Beach is home to the largest ocean baths in the Southern Hemisphere. (Image: Tourism Australia/Andrew Smith)

The city’s Victoria Theatre is the oldest surviving heritage theatre in NSW and is undergoing an extensive restoration to reopen as a live performance space. And its once lacking accommodation offering has been boosted by an influx of new stays including QT Newcastle , Crystalbrook Kingsley and the recently opened Little National Hotel in the city’s waterfront precinct.

the hotel room at Crystalbrook Kingsley
Crystalbrook Kingsley is a jewel in Newcastle’s crown. (Image: Crystalbrook Kingsley)

5. Lorne, Victoria

When a big-name restaurant enters the scene, it gains attention from the beau monde. And so, a domino effect is triggered. As the fifth outpost from hospitality juggernaut Merivale, the opening of Totti’s Lorne in the renovated Lorne Hotel was highly anticipated. The town has always been a drawcard for its position on the Great Ocean Road and its natural beauty – waterfalls, beaches and coastal walks – but the seaside town really packs a punch for its food offerings. Totti’s joins Greek diner Ipsos and hole-in-the-wall pizzeria Pizza Pizza.

a table-top view of food at Totti’s Lorne
Totti’s Lorne bowls over visitors to the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Steven Woodburn)

6. Central Coast, NSW

This beachside region smack-bang between Sydney and Newcastle has come into its own in recent years, with a smattering of sophisticated new restaurants, bars and accommodation options increasing its relevance to tastemakers.

food on the table at Meribella, Terrigal
Meribella adds sophistication to Terrigal. (Image: Kitti Gould)

There’s hatted restaurant Osteria il Coccia , located in the quaint seaside town of Ettalong; the complete overhaul of The Beachy at Toukley with chic accommodation and a happening drinking and dining scene; and a plethora of establishments rejuvenating the nightlife in Terrigal (playful diner Maew Maew , grungy bar Lost Souls , uber-chic Meribella restaurant , and plans for a $5-million makeover of Terrigal Pavilion by the same folk behind Queensland’s Burleigh Pavilion in Burleigh Heads).

the restaurant interior of Osteria il Coccia in Ettalong
The hatted restaurant Osteria il Coccia is located in the quaint seaside town of Ettalong. (Image: David Li)

But perhaps the most dramatic change is still to come, with multimillion-dollar developments now dominating the Gosford CBD skyline.

an Asian plate at Maew Maew on pink and blue-green background
Asian eatery Maew Maew has helped transform Terrigal.

7. Bellingen, NSW

Once known as a hippie hideout, this small hinterland town between rainforest and coast has been described as the new Byron (or perhaps good ol’ Byron). The town is an idyllic base for exploring the Waterfall Way and Dorrigo National Park, with well-preserved heritage-listed buildings and an impressive culinary scene. Joining the likes of stylish Italian osteria Fiume and Mediterranean kitchen Brunos , the farm-to-table restaurant group Three Blue Ducks has now moved in. Housed in motel-turned-luxe stay The Lodge on 6.5 hectares, the restaurant has uninterrupted views of Dorrigo Mountain and serves its signature ethical, local and seasonal food from breakfast to dinner. The news gives city folk reason to drop in and linger a little longer while driving along the east coast.

the scenic landscape at Three Blue Ducks, Bellingen
Three Blue Ducks lands in bucolic Bellingen. (Image: Steven Woodburn)

8. Geelong, Victoria

Things are happening in Victoria’s second-largest city, a seaside hub with wide-open beaches lined with palm trees, Art Deco architecture, a bounty of new restaurants and a brand-new hotel. Within the new Geelong Quarter, Holiday Inn and Suites is playful and stylish accommodation with onsite restaurant Maestro headed by master-of-meat chef Adrian Richardson (ex-La Luna Bistro and Bouvier).

a look inside the drinking den at Non Disclosure, Geelong
Non Disclosure is a glam new drinking den in Geelong. (Image: Crystal Baker)

Little Malop Street is a bustling dining precinct, with a host of small speakeasies such as the new Non Disclosure Bar . In the 173-year-old Sawyers Arms Tavern, Southeast Asian restaurant Two Noble and Eileen’s Charcoal Grill , a Euro steakhouse, are two exciting additions. And the century-old Eureka Hotel recently reopened after an extensive refurbishment, drawing in the crowds for classic pub grub in a modern setting. The Geelong Arts Centre also just opened its doors after a $140-million redevelopment, which includes theatres, studios, events and dining spaces and is slated to be Victoria’s boldest cultural asset.

the light-filled Geelong Arts Centre
The city is in the spotlight thanks to the Geelong Arts Centre. (Image: John Gollings)

9. Rottnest Island, WA

Wadjemup, or ‘Rotto’ as it’s known colloquially, is a long-time favourite destination for Perth locals (and visitors alike), returning time and time again for laid-back no-fuss getaways. In 2020, however, the island got a polish with its first luxury resort – beachfront stay Samphire Rottnest – the epitome of barefoot indulgence. The Lodge Wadjemup is a brand-new low-rise build set to open later this year. Newcomers on the culinary scene add to the excitement, including Italian restaurant Isola Bar e Cibo and relaxed Mediterranean eatery Havza.

the poolside restaurant at Samphire Rottnest, WA
Drink and dine by the ocean at Samphire Rottnest, WA. (Image: Jillian Mchugh)

10. Bendigo, Vic

In 2019, Bendigo became Australia’s first UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy for its diverse and sustainable food culture and creative industries – a huge accolade for the former gold rush town. Since then, Bendigo has carved a niche for itself as an epicentre for art and design, hosting some of the world’s largest fashion and design exhibitions including Marilyn Monroe and Elvis: Direct from Graceland in its regional art centre. The buzz about town got even louder when Wotif named Bendigo ‘Australia’s best town to visit for 2024’.

a plate of food at Restaurant Terrae in Bendigo Ernest Hotel
Restaurant Terrae is the latest spot to frequent at Bendigo Ernest Hotel.

Bendigo Ernest Hotel , a 10-suite boutique housed in the town’s oldest bank, makes for an elegant stay. And discerning tastebuds can be satisfied with on-trend eateries such as North American-inspired The Woodhouse , Melbourne-style speakeasy The Dispensary , chic rooftop bar Nimbus and Bendigo Brewing, opening soon.

Megan Arkinstall
Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)