The best (and easiest ways) to navigate the Australian outback

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When the sun hits the earth in the Australian outback it’s like looking into the deep folds of an Albert Namatjira painting. But to truly immerse yourself in this vast landscape is far removed from a visual journey and requires careful plotting and planning. We’ve done the hard yards. Now GO.

The outback is much more than a place to most Australians; it is a concept of our country that fascinates and intimidates, sometimes in equal measure. While the landmass of the outback can be plotted on a map, the true significance of the landscape itself, the ancient history that has shaped it, the proud people who have both lived off it and nurtured it through millennia, the stories (old and new) that have mythologised it, and the otherworldly beauty that characterises it, is almost impossible to convey through words. It is something that needs to be experienced, a feeling that needs to seep into your fibre, an image that needs to be imprinted into your mind’s eye.

In spite of all of these reasons why you should visit the outback, there are also a lot of stereotypes that convince people that you shouldn’t – from the distances and size (too big) to the dangers and to the cost of travelling there (too expensive). As a result, exploring the outback, still largely the untamed heart of our Great Southern Land, is something that a lot of Australians relegate to the ‘too hard right now’ basket, telling themselves they will get around to getting there one day.

But, quite literally, there is no time like the present. Outback regions have been hit hard by border closures and travel restrictions during the pandemic – from Indigenous tour operators to accommodation offerings – but this also presents an irresistible opportunity to experience the outback with a level of quiet and calm that is a rare privilege.

Here, we bust some myths, answer some questions, serve up some good advice, and detail easy journeys that will have you lacing up your hiking boots and booking your plane ticket (or loading up the car), like, now.

Frequently asked outback questions answered.

How old is the outback?

This is a ‘tree falling in the forest’ kind of question, and the answer depends on how you look at things: while the landmass of Australia began to form up to 500 million years ago, it is thought that parts of the northern outback were first inhabited up to 65,000 years ago, with movement into other arid regions 35,000 to 45,000 years ago.

Why is it called the outback?

The term outback originated in the 19th century to describe inland areas that were considered far away: they were ‘out the back of’ the furthest place most people knew of.

How big is the outback?

It’s estimated to be somewhere near 5.6 million square kilometres, which would mean that it covers about 70 per cent of the mainland continent of Australia. That makes it bigger than the entire European Union or more than half the size of the United States.

Where exactly is the outback?

While it is an imperfect science to say exactly where the outback starts and finishes, in more general terms it encompasses all of the Northern Territory (with the exception of the greater Darwin region), large swathes of Western Australia, South Australia, and Queensland, and the north-western corner of NSW.

How many things in the outback can do you damage?

Not everything in the outback is out to get you. True, the arid regions of far west and southwest Queensland, far west NSW, the northeast corner of South Australia, and the southeast of the Northern Territory are home to the inland taipan, the most poisonous snake in the world. But the inland taipan is kinda reclusive and won’t come looking for you, and you probably won’t see hide nor hair of a western brown snake even if you visit its outback habitat on multiple occasions. You can swim with freshwater crocodiles, which are found in billabongs and waterholes throughout northern Australia and, while they might occasionally take a nibble, it is almost never fatal; saltwater crocodiles, on the other hand, do attack and kill humans, so it is important to check before swimming in the Northern Territory’s river systems and always obey warning signs.

Set out on a multi-day outback hike
Trek the weird and wonderful Larapinta Trail.

Bucket list sights in the outback

Uluru, NT

Standing at the base of ‘the Rock’ will recalibrate your perception of being Australian. It really is awe-inspiring in its scale and beauty, but it is the feeling it instils in you, informed by its infinite history and cultural significance. And the awesomeness doesn’t end at Ulura; Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) is close by, offering an inspiring location to watch the sun rise in the chill morning air of the desert.

Uluru
Uluru, a dual natural and cultural World Heritage site in the heart of Australia.

Alice Springs, NT

Australia’s quintessential outback city is as interesting as it is remote: think endless Northern Territory horizons to be explored and seriously good coffee once you are done.

Explore Alice Springs in an unexpected way
Alice Springs is full of surprises.

The Ghan, SA – NT

Our most iconic train journey cuts a swathe through the red dirt of Central Australia from Adelaide to Darwin.

Coober Pedy, SA

This quirky subterranean South Australian city – the opal capital of the world – really is one of those places that has to be seen and experienced to be believed.

Coober Pedy
Coober Pedy is indeed one of the country’s most unusual places.

Longreach, Qld

Located in Central West Queensland, it is considered by many as the ultimate embodiment of an outback town.

Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre, SA

At 64 kilometres long and 24 kilometres wide, this is the country’s largest salt lake, and at 15.2 metres below sea level it is also the lowest point in Australia. Experience the sense of stepping away from the modern world by standing on its vast expanse, engulfed in silence, or flying over it to really come to grips with its size and isolation.

Lake Eyre scenic flight
The outback colours are a blend of mochas, caramels and milky teas. (Image: Jonathan Cami)

Cape Leveque, WA

Perhaps no place better captures the contrasts of Australia than this far-flung coastal outpost, where the ochre rocks of the Western Australian outback melt into the roiling blue waters of the Indian Ocean.

Kooljaman at Cape Leveque
Cape Leveque is your ocean host with the most.

Horizontal Falls, WA

Sitting in the stunning Talbot Bay in the Kimberley (Australians’ ultimate bucket list location), the Horries as they are known are a compelling sight that no less than Sir David Attenborough has described as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world".

horizontal waterfall The Kimberleys.
Fly over the stunning horizontal waterfall of the Kimberley. (Image: Brook James)

Purnululu, WA

Located within Western Australia’s Purnululu National Park, this fascinating range, also known as the Bungle Bungles, has stood silent and proud over the expansive landscape for 350 million years. So it is completely puzzling to learn that most people only found out about the now World Heritage-listed formation in 1983 after a film crew flew over it while working on a documentary. Do like the documentarians did and fly over the park to get the full effect.

Purnululu: Bungle Bungle Range
The striking tiger-striped beehive domes of Purnululu/Bungle Bungle Range.

Kings Canyon, NT

With its towering sandstone walls stretching up to 300 metres high, and lush, green oases of palm trees and waterholes scattered throughout, Kings Canyon, part of Northern Territory’s Watarrka National Park, is big in size and beauty; take the famed Rim Walk to take it all in.

Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park
Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park.

Must-do Indigenous experiences

Hearing stories of the rich ancient history and witnessing the customs and traditions that are singular to the Indigenous peoples of this country are some of the most compelling reasons to visit the outback. Factor these events into your plans.

Laura Quinkan Dance Festival, Qld

This three-day festival gathers the people of the Cape to the outback town of Laura to celebrate their history through song and dance.

Catch an Indigenous festival (Credit Elise Hassey)
Catch an Indigenous festival, including the Laura Dance Festival. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Parrtjima – A Festival in Light, NT

Held over 10 nights, Parrtjima has been likened to Vivid in the outback, with the city of Alice Springs lit up with exuberant light installations by Aboriginal artists and projected on everything from buildings to the desert floor to the MacDonnell Ranges. Register to attend the annual event.

Parrtjima - A Festival in Light
Lighting the MacDonnell Ranges (Ankgentye Apmere-kenhe).

Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair, NT

With more than 70 Indigenous-owned community art centres in attendance, the annual Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair (DAAF) gives visitors the chance to purchase artwork directly from artists and their community arts centres. The program includes art auctions, a showcase of First Nations textiles and fashions, traditional dance and music, and bush tucker. After going virtual for the first time last year, this year’s event will take place from 6–8 August.

Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair (DAAF)
Purchase artwork directly from artists and their community arts centres.

From the city to the outback

Easy journeys to discover the beating heart of our wide brown land.

Sydney to Mungo National Park, NSW

The unearthly landscape of World Heritage-listed Mungo National Park is often compared to something from another planet, but its history is just as interesting. The remains of Mungo Lady and Mungo Man, the oldest Homo sapiens remains ever found on the Australian continent, were uncovered here, establishing Aboriginal culture as one of the oldest on Earth.

Getting there

Despite its otherworldly persona, Mungo is easily accessed via a short 3.5-hour flight from Sydney to the city of Mildura. From here, you can join an organised tour, self-drive or take a scenic flight over the spectacular fossilised lake that deposits you at Mungo Lodge’s red-dirt runway.

To do

Mungo’s centrepiece, the Walls of China, is another natural treasure worth exploring. Take an Aboriginal Discovery Tour from the visitor centre to see the astonishing surprises that have come from these fragile sand and clay formations – from ancient fireplaces to the bones of long-extinct megafauna. Back at eco-friendly Mungo Lodge, browse Indigenous artworks and enjoy a generous meal, before stargazing by campfire light.

Mungo National Park from the air.

Brisbane to Birdsville, Qld

It’s difficult to explain Birdsville’s significance to first-time visitors. Giving equal credit to the journey and the destination, this remote town – over 1500 kilometres inland from the city of Brisbane – is a physical embodiment of the Aussie bush spirit.

To do

At its heart stands Australia’s most famous outback pub, Birdsville Hotel , a verandah-skirted, weathered sandstone building that has been welcoming explorers for 130 years. Spend a night or two here, chatting with the locals and marvelling at the Australiana that binds its interior together – including a ceiling strewn with well-worn Akubras.

 

In September, 6000 pilgrims gather for the Birdsville Races and thousands flock in for the world’s most remote rock concert (Big Red Bash) in July, set below the Simpson Desert’s largest dune.

Getting there

Whether you fly in directly from Brisbane or tour the whole Diamantina and Corner Country, Birdsville will open your eyes and heart to the outback.

Birdsville Hotel
You haven’t truly “done" QLD until you’ve visited the iconic Birdsville Hotel.

Adelaide to the Flinders Ranges, SA

A leisurely trip around the Flinders Ranges’ half-billion-year-old rocky peaks is the perfect maiden voyage for outback tenderfoots.

To do

Marvel at Ikara (Wilpena Pound), which looks like a meteor crater but is actually the remnants of a mountain range that once eclipsed the Himalayas. To fully comprehend the 17-kilometre-long by eight-kilometre-wide formation, take a scenic flight over it or hike through it on the four-day Arkaba Walk, spending the small hours cosying up in your very own ‘star bed’.

The Flinders, as it’s known, is full of quirky stays. Go glamping in a safari tent at Ikara or bed down in well-appointed eco-villas at Rawnsley Park.

Sample bush food with a twist at classic pub-turned-gourmet-oasis Prairie Hotel , where adventurous carnivores can try the Feral Mixed Grill (emu liver pâté or camel sausage) and sweet-tooth the quandong pie.

Getting there

A three-day tour departing from Adelaide will give you a good introduction to the Flinders, but a week will leave you more time to explore vast Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre and the striking sandstone tablelands at The Breakaways, near Coober Pedy.

Explore the Flinders Ranges.
Explore the Flinders Ranges.

Darwin to Kakadu, NT

At nearly half the size of Switzerland, Kakadu is Australia’s largest national park, but its delights lie in the small details. Culturally rich and biodiverse, it’s all about getting out there among its spectacular escarpments and lotus-lilied wetlands, just like Paul Hogan did in Crocodile Dundee, which was filmed here.

To do

Take a dip in the natural infinity pools of Gunlom Falls, or hike up to the cascading waterfalls of Jim Jim Falls. Cruise the tranquil Yellow Water Billabong amid millions of migratory birds, including the dancing jabiru, and keep your eyes peeled for lurking salties.

 

Kakadu is best appreciated through the eyes of its Traditional Owners, the Bininj/Mungguy people, with the highlight for many visitors the Indigenous-led tour of the millennia-old rock art galleries at Ubirr and other cultural sites.

Getting there

Kakadu is a three-hour drive from Darwin. Day trips and longer guided tours are available from the city, some with stops at Litchfield National Park and Arnhem Land. For an above-ground perspective, take a scenic helicopter over the park’s wild landscapes.

Photography: Dillon Seitchik-Reardon
Maguk Gorge, the jewel in the crown of Kakadu’s swimming spots. (Image: Dillon Seitchik-Reardon)

Perth to the Kimberley, WA

The Kimberley region in Australia’s far northwest is a barely imaginable, insanely colourful wilderness full to the brim with magnificent contrasts and contradictions.

To do

From Broome, it’s easy to explore the culture of the region’s Indigenous owners, the Bardi Jawi people, on a tour to Kooljaman at Cape Leveque, where red dirt and the azure Indian Ocean are separated only by a strip of striking white beach. Tag along on a bush tucker tour to eat like the locals have for thousands of years, tasting the spicy apple-flavoured illarr berry and Kakadu plum known as gubinge.

Inland, the dramatic landscape constantly gives up its secrets: grand gorges, clear freshwater swimming holes and Horizontal Falls. Yet there’s no reason to ‘rough it’; secluded Berkeley River Lodge’s stunning dune-top luxury coastal villas with open-air bathrooms are accessible both by seaplane or helicopter.

Kimberley Coastal Camp and Faraway Bay also offer great sea-facing stays. In East Kimberley, at the homestead on El Questro’s sprawling 283,279-hectare cattle station, you can ease into your outdoor bathtub and watch Chamberlain River flow by, as Hollywood A-listers regularly do. Give yourself at least one week here, preferably two, because many more Kimberley experiences beckon: from luxury coastal cruises to one of Australia’s most epic 4WD adventures along the Gibb River Road.

Getting there

The short flight from Perth (or Sydney and Melbourne in the dry season) lands you in the laid-back, frangipani-treed nirvana that is Broome. Wander alongside aqua waters (and boutiques) full of Pinctada maxima (‘mother of pearls’) and become part of the sunset on an organised camel ride along the 22-kilometre-long Cable Beach.

Explore the red rock wilderness of the East Kimberley
Explore the red rock wilderness of the East Kimberley.
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Farm fresh produce to a trail of lights: the ultimate guide to Mildura

The charm of Mildura is hidden in plain sight along the Sturt Highway. The capital of Tropical North Victoria is in a league of its own.

From the moment you arrive in Mildura , the warm air and palm trees invite you to slow down. While most Australians might drive right past it, Mildura is full of surprises. Here you’ll spend one day witnessing over 50,000 years of First Nations history in a UNESCO-listed National Park, and the next dining in a hatted restaurant after wandering through 12,500 fireflies as the outback sunset bursts to life above. From roadside fruit stalls and family-run wineries to houseboats and galleries, it’s time to explore Mildura.

Feast Street, at the heart of Langtree Avenue in Mildura.
Taste, wander and be surprised in Mildura.

Taste Mildura’s produce

It makes sense to start your trip by addressing the most important question: where to eat. In the beating heart of Australia’s food bowl, sample the local produce directly from the source. And then, of course, experience it through the menu of a hatted chef. Or sandwiched between pillowy slices of Nonna’s ciabatta.

Rows of orchards and olive groves invite you to spend the day traipsing from farm to farm. Taste olives propagated from Calabrian trees brought over in the 40s, oranges picked right from the tree and squeezed into juice and spoons full of honey . Bring the holiday back to your kitchen by stocking your pantry at roadside produce stalls, or calling into the ‘silver shed ’ (Sunraysia’s gourmand Mecca).

Thanks to the warm, balmy air and fertile soils, the wineries dotted along these hills produce award-winning local wines. Like Chalmers , a family-run, innovative winery dedicated to making their wines as sustainable as possible. And picturesque Trentham Estate offers views of the snaking Murray River as you sample their vintages.

Venture beyond the gnarled shadows of olive groves and fragrant rows of blossoming fruit trees and you’ll find an otherworldly side to Mildura. With Discover Mildura as your guide, visit Murray River Salt’s Mars-like stacks. The naturally pink salt is formed from an ancient inland sea and evaporated entirely by the sun to create one of the region’s most iconic exports.

Start your day with just-squeezed sunshine.

Hatted dining & Italian history

Mildura is home to a proud community of Calabrians and Sicilians. This, paired with the exceptional local produce, means that you can find paninos on par with those in Italy. The Italian is a Paninoteca serving up made-to-order, hefty, authentic Sicilian paninos. Nonna Rosa’s pork meatballs, slowly cooked in tomato ragu and served in a crusty, fluffy roll topped with gratings of Grana Padano cheese and salsa verde, will call you back to Mildura for the rest of your days.

To find hatted dining in Mildura, simply follow the staircase down into the basement of the historic Mildura Grand Hotel to find Stefano’s . Following the muscle memory and instinct of his Italian roots, he delivers on the principle of ‘cucina povera’. That is, the Italian cooking ideology that turns simple, local ingredients into magic.

Things to do in Mildura include dining at the acclaimed Stefano’s, where simple local ingredients are transformed into Italian culinary magic beneath the historic Grand Hotel.
Bite into Mildura’s Italian heritage.

Discover a thriving culture scene

The city is alive with culture. Whether it’s painted on the town’s walls, told in ancient yarns, or waiting for you in a gallery.

The Mildura Arts Centre was Australia’s first regional art gallery. Behind the walls of Rio Vista Historic House, you’ll find a lineup of ever-changing exhibitions. The gallery’s wall space pays tribute to the art and songlines of local First Nations People, the region’s awe-inspiring landscapes and more. Outside, on the gallery’s lawn, find 12 contemporary sculptures in the Sculpture Park.

Mildura’s streetscapes are a punch of colour. Swirling strokes of paint blend the winding artery of the Murray River, red dirt and local characters into a story you can see with your own eyes, thanks to the Mildura City Heart’s Mural Art Project . Pick up a copy of the Murals of Mildura guide from the Visitor Information Centre.

Follow the border of NSW and Victoria on a map and you’ll see it hugs the curves of a tiny island on the Murray. That’s Lock Island, where, as the sun and moon trade places, the island comes alive as darkness falls. The island is dotted with 12,500 firefly lights that lead you on a meandering path through the outback sunset. The installation is known as Trail of Lights and was created by the same visionary who dreamt up Field of Light at Uluu, Bruce Munro.

Things to do in Mildura include exploring its rich cultural scene. From vibrant street art and ancient stories to exhibitions at the Mildura Arts Centre, Australia’s first regional gallery.
Find culture around every corner.

Wonder at ancient landscapes

The landscapes of Mildura feel almost transcendental. The skyline bursts to life with reds, pinks, and deep, sparkly night skies.

The nature will leave you in awe. See hues of pink water changing with the weather at Pink Lakes inside Victoria’s largest national park, Murray Sunset National Oark. Cast a line into Ouyen Lake. Watch the sunset against 70-metre tall red cliffs that reflect the setting sun. Or get the heart racing and sandboard down the Perry Sandhills dunes, formed 40,000 years ago at the end of an ice age.

Just don’t leave without following the twists and turns of the Murray. Stroll or ride along the Shared River Front Path, or jump onboard a boat for a scenic ride.

Your itinerary will be incomplete without a visit to UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mungo National Park . Head out with an Indigenous ranger to witness ancient campsites and footprints, before standing in awe of ancient civilisation near the discovery site of Mungo Man—Australia’s oldest human skeleton at 42,000 years old.

Mungo National Park at night is a vast, silent landscape where ancient dunes glow under moonlight and stars blanket the sky in breathtaking clarity.
Walk in the footsteps of ancient civilisation.

Meet your home away from home

On equal par with planning your meals and adventures, is finding the perfect place to relax at the end of each day.

Sleep inside a Palm Springs postcard at Kar-Rama . A sleek boutique hotel complete with a butterfly shaped, sun-soaked pool. Here you’re staying right in the heart of Mildura but you’ll feel worlds away. Or if you really wish to connect with nature, a night glamping under the stars at Outback Almonds will have you spellbound.

When in Mildura it’s only right to stay on one of the Murray River’s iconic houseboats . Wake up each day to the calm waters of the Murray lapping outside your window. Enjoy days full of river swims, fishing and exploring. All boats are solar-powered and can be self-skippered or moored along the river.

A solar-powered houseboat on the Murray River in Mildura.
Stay and play on the Murray in a solar houseboat.

Start planning the perfect getaway at mildura.com .