Birdsville10 things to do besides the races

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The Birdsville Races is an Australian outback bucket list item of mythical proportions, with around 7000 pilgrims covering thousands of kilometres to swarm on the remote Queensland town each September (since 1882). But Birdsville ain’t no one horse-race town. If you make it that far into the outback, you should do Birdsville thoroughly. So here are the 10 other must do’s. (words: Steve Madgwick)

1. The pub of many hats

'Hard yard' hats Birdsville Hotel Queensland photo: Steve Madgwick
‘Hard yard’ hats – Birdsville Hotel, outback Queensland (photo: Steve Madgwick).

Don’t just stop outside and snap the obligatory photo of one of the most photogenic outback pubs in Australia (circa 1884) – although you won’t be able to help yourself.

 

Step inside the Birdsville Hotel, reward yourself with a cold beverage and a bite to eat and marvel at the memorabilia. Start by counting the hats stuck to the ceiling of the public bar, each one representing someone who has done the “hard yards" in Birdsville (representing those who have spent more than a year here).

 

The food and accommodation are as good as anywhere you’ll get for miles and miles and miles around.

2. Try a camel pie

camel pie Birdsville Bakery photo Steve Madgwick
The ‘C’ means it’s a camel pie, Birdsville Bakery (photo: Steve Madgwick).

For the adventurous gastronomist, wander across the oval to Birdsville Bakery to sample the town’s culinary gift to the world: the camel pie.

 

Marked with a big ‘C’ on top of the crust, the $6 pastry has a curry zing and a lamb-like texture, the tender minced meat is not lumpy or humpy.

 

If camel’s a trek too far for you, try the kangaroo and claret pie or the berri quandong tart. It’s also extra special because Birdsville’s is one of only a handful of licensed bakeries in Australia.

Birdsville bakery outback Queensland
The (licensed) Birdsville Bakery, outback Queensland.

3. Play in the big red sand pit

Big Red dune Simpson Desert
The 40-metre high Big Red dune, gateway to the Simpson Desert (and 4WDers funpark). (Photo: Steve Madgwick).

Thirty-five kilometres west of the town, along an unsealed but passable road (as long as it’s dry), the trademark ochre dunes of the Simpson Desert begin.

 

Closest to Birdsville are Little Red and Big Red (40 metres high), which are the gateway to the Simpson traverse for hard-core 4WDers.

 

Please note that Big Red is on private land so show respect accordingly. At sunset and sunrise, you’ll get to see why Simpson is truly a redhead.

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4. Run and then bash

The Big Red Run seems like a crazy idea – a 250-kilometre foot race through the Simpson Desert – but funds raised from the event go towards great causes (including childhood diabetes), and all the athletes are consenting adults.

 

Ultra-marathoners from all around compete in the equivalent of 5 marathons in 6 days.

 

Directly after the run, the now annual Big Red Bash, a two-day concert featuring Australian rock royalty, is held on a makeshift stage constructed at the bottom of Big Red, creating a huge desert amphitheatre.

 

It’s fast becoming a pilgrimage that one day may challenge the races for sheer numbers making the trip.

5. The culture quest

While there are no major art spots in the area, there are some sites of significance for traditional custodians of the area, the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people.

 

A tour can be arrange to the Two Boys Dreaming site from the Wirrarri Information Centre (you can’t miss it).

 

While you’re at Wirrarri, browse the attached gallery for some amazing desert-scape photography and local art.

6. Swimming outback style

The pub is only one of the ways to cool down in town.

 

A nice stroll past the bakery will take you to Birdsville Billabong – great for a dip, a yabby hunt or for birdwatchers.

 

For a more adventurous style of outback swim, ask the locals if any of the surrounding (seasonal) waterholes are ripe for a dip. Make sure you get permission first, because many are on private land.

7. Waddi type of trees are they?

Head north out of town (14 kilometres towards Bedourie) and you will happen upon the fish-out-of-water rare desert waddi trees (seeds from these trees were discovered in Wills’ diary).

 

Some of the trees are said to a 1000 years old and their wood is abnormally hard.

 

The best vantage point to see the waddis is atop the mysteriously named Dingo Caves (note, there are no actual dingoes in the caves).

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8. Day-tripping the easy way

There are plenty of legendary outback landmarks close (in a bush context) to Birdsville but just far enough out of town to make them too challenging for first-time 4WD-ers short of recovery and bush skills (or for those flying in).

 

Local company Deserts Edge Tours operates organised and bespoke excursions to places such as Cameron Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet) or Poeppel Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet) in its huge, dune-munching 4WD-bus hybrid.

 

For an aerial perspective of Channel Country, Central Eagle Aviation offer charters and joy flights such as 30-minutes over Big Red.

9. Burke and Wills legacy

Many towns around Australia’s centre have a Burke and Wills encounter story, as does Birdsville.

 

Evidence of the ludicrously intrepid pair’s connection to the area stands about three kilometres south of the centre where one of them is said to have slashed a tree, which still stands today.

 

It’s a subtle but worthy notch on your outback belt.

10. Fly the milk run

For those who fly (instead of drive) from Birdsville back to Brisbane you won’t get that slow-burn iconic outback trip moment, but you’ll have your own unique experience to talk about.

 

The Milk Run, the REX flight back to Brisbane, touches down at a handful of outback towns you’ve probably never been to before, including Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.

 

The steward has to repeat the safety talk every time you take-off despite the fact the passengers are basically the same. Expect a complimentary beverage and biscuit on every leg too.

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From reef to rainforest: Discover the best Port Douglas experiences

(Credit: TTNQ)

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    Ancient rainforest, coral reefs, laid-back luxury and adrenaline-fuelled adventures, Port Douglas offers a side of Australia unlike anywhere else.

    Mornings in Port Douglas start with a beautiful symphony. As day breaks, the lyrical calls of Rainbow Lorikeets, cries of the sulphur-crested cockatoos and rhythmic Coral Sea waves create a colourful soundtrack for Tropical North Queensland’s sunrise. If there’s one place in Australia that captures the sweet spot between luxury and laid-back living, it’s here. This small, seaside village has just enough glamour to feel indulgent and just enough barefoot charm to make you feel like you’ve escaped the chaos of everyday life.

    Whether you’re diving into the warm waters on Four Mile Beach or enjoying an ice-cold drink and a Barramundi burger overlooking the marina, Port Douglas offers more than just a seaside holiday.

    Local gourmet goodies

    Nautilus restaurant port douglas
    Nab an open-air table beneath a canopy of palms at Nautilus. (Image: Toby Stanley)

    The tropical food scene in Port Douglas is influenced by the rich agricultural regions surrounding it, with fresh produce arriving daily from nearby farms and tropical growers across the region. At Nautilus – a hidden, palm-fringed restaurant just off Macrossan Street – the menu showcases regional flavours. Its Signature Nautilus Mango Soufflé is a long-time favourite.

    Nearby, Hi-Tide by the Beach offers a relaxed way beachfront dining experience overlooking the Coral Sea. From crocodile and lemon myrtle spring rolls to wild barramundi and a volcanic hot stone steak, taste the diverse flavours of Tropical North Queensland.

    Visitors can also explore the region’s local markets. Port Douglas Markets offers artisan products and tropical treats each Sunday, while the Saturday morning Mossman Markets is the place for fresh local produce from the surrounding farming community.

    Just outside of Port Douglas, Ospreys at Thala Beach Nature Reserve has one of the region’s most memorable dining outlooks. Perched on a small headland between rainforest and sea, take in views across the coastline and mountains while you dine. The seasonal menu highlights local seafood, tropical fruits and native ingredients sourced from across the region

    Travelling with young humans

    Hartley's Crocodile Adventures port douglas
    Catch a spectacle at Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. (Credit: TTNQ)

    Port Douglas caters for all types of visitors, but families especially love the walkable streets, wide beaches and range of activities nearby. An attraction that never fails to delight all ages is Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures – a wildlife sanctuary and ecotourism park with some of the region’s largest crocodiles. Here, you’ll also find koalas, cassowaries, turtles and other Australian wildlife.

    For something slower paced, sit back and enjoy a tranquil visit aboard the historic Lady Douglas River Cruise. Glide along the calm waters of Dickson Inlet, keeping an eye out for birdlife and estuarine crocodiles along the mangroves. Children can take part in activity sheets onboard and even have the opportunity to help steer the boat.

    This region is also deeply connected to Indigenous culture, and a Dreamtime Walk is one way to learn about it. Discover the stories, traditions and connection to Country of the local Kuku Yalanji people from local Indigenous guides, while exploring the rainforest and waters of Mossman Gorge.

    Exploring local waterways

    Coya Beach port douglas
    Walk along the peaceful Cooya Beach. (Credit: TTNQ)

    Join a guided tour with Walkabout Cultural Adventures to explore the peaceful Cooya Beach. Led by deeply knowledgeable local Aboriginal guides, try seasonal local bush tucker, take in the beautiful landscape and gain insight into the history, culture and traditions of this land.

    Surrounded by dense canopy and ancient species, nearby Hartley’s Creek Falls are at their finest after rain. These beautiful falls are reached via a lush rainforest walk that winds through creek crossings, towering greenery and moss-covered boulders.

    To swim where the locals swim, head out past local farms and into the foothills of the Mossman River to Shannonvale – a low-key freshwater swimming hole surrounded by sun-warmed rocks and deep pockets of clear water. It’s a quiet area to spend a few hours retreating from the world.

    Adrenaline adventures

    Sailaway Port Douglas
    Take to the ocean with Sailaway Port Douglas. (Credit: TTNQ)

    One of the most high-octane ways to enjoy the nature of Tropical North Queensland is white-water rafting down the impressive Barron River. With Grade two and Grade three rapids, expect plenty of splashing, some teamwork, and a few moments where everyone in the raft screams and laughs at the same time.

    Join Back Country Bliss for the most unique floating experience you’ll ever encounter. Head into the rainforest and float along the serene Mossman River on your individual board, taking in the sights and sounds of the ancient landscape around you.

    If you prefer ocean swimming, Sailaway Port Douglas explores the idyllic Low Isles and the outer reef on their snorkelling tours. Enjoy the Great Barrier Reef from above or below and look out for coral gardens, giant clams, colourful reef fish and, if you’re lucky, sea turtles.

    For land-lovers, the Devil’s Thumb is a challenging but rewarding hike with incredible views over the coast and endless cane fields. This 10km return hike will take around six to eight hours, so leave a whole day and pack snacks!

    Experiences that give back

    Skyrail Rainforest Cableway port douglas experiences
    See the rainforest from above on The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. (Credit: TTNQ)

    With two UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites – the Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics of Queensland rainforest region – it’s not surprising Tropical North Queensland is a hub for eco-tourism. The stunning Daintree Ecolodge was founded on the principles of minimising environmental impact, supporting the local community and teaching guests about the local Indigenous culture. Their elevated rainforest-style ‘bayans’ are tucked among the trees, bringing nature into every part of a guest’s stay.

    Further down the coast, the luxury bungalows and treetop hideaways of Thala Beach Nature Reserve are dotted across 45 acres of protected headland, forest and beach. The property’s design intentionally preserves large areas of native vegetation and beachfront ecosystem, while conserving the surrounding habitat. The private beach and various swimming pools offer a cool retreat from the heat of the day, while the main lodge offers the perfect place to read and relax.

    The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, a 7.5-kilometre cableway between Cairns and nearby Kuranda, has won multiple tourism and environmental awards. It’s also the first tourism attraction in the world to achieve Platinum EarthCheck Accreditation, for its long-term environmental management and sustainability initiatives.

    Start planning your Port Douglas adventure at tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au.