Birdsville10 things to do besides the races

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The Birdsville Races is an Australian outback bucket list item of mythical proportions, with around 7000 pilgrims covering thousands of kilometres to swarm on the remote Queensland town each September (since 1882). But Birdsville ain’t no one horse-race town. If you make it that far into the outback, you should do Birdsville thoroughly. So here are the 10 other must do’s. (words: Steve Madgwick)

1. The pub of many hats

'Hard yard' hats Birdsville Hotel Queensland photo: Steve Madgwick
‘Hard yard’ hats – Birdsville Hotel, outback Queensland (photo: Steve Madgwick).

Don’t just stop outside and snap the obligatory photo of one of the most photogenic outback pubs in Australia (circa 1884) – although you won’t be able to help yourself.

 

Step inside the Birdsville Hotel, reward yourself with a cold beverage and a bite to eat and marvel at the memorabilia. Start by counting the hats stuck to the ceiling of the public bar, each one representing someone who has done the “hard yards" in Birdsville (representing those who have spent more than a year here).

 

The food and accommodation are as good as anywhere you’ll get for miles and miles and miles around.

2. Try a camel pie

camel pie Birdsville Bakery photo Steve Madgwick
The ‘C’ means it’s a camel pie, Birdsville Bakery (photo: Steve Madgwick).

For the adventurous gastronomist, wander across the oval to Birdsville Bakery to sample the town’s culinary gift to the world: the camel pie.

 

Marked with a big ‘C’ on top of the crust, the $6 pastry has a curry zing and a lamb-like texture, the tender minced meat is not lumpy or humpy.

 

If camel’s a trek too far for you, try the kangaroo and claret pie or the berri quandong tart. It’s also extra special because Birdsville’s is one of only a handful of licensed bakeries in Australia.

Birdsville bakery outback Queensland
The (licensed) Birdsville Bakery, outback Queensland.

3. Play in the big red sand pit

Big Red dune Simpson Desert
The 40-metre high Big Red dune, gateway to the Simpson Desert (and 4WDers funpark). (Photo: Steve Madgwick).

Thirty-five kilometres west of the town, along an unsealed but passable road (as long as it’s dry), the trademark ochre dunes of the Simpson Desert begin.

 

Closest to Birdsville are Little Red and Big Red (40 metres high), which are the gateway to the Simpson traverse for hard-core 4WDers.

 

Please note that Big Red is on private land so show respect accordingly. At sunset and sunrise, you’ll get to see why Simpson is truly a redhead.

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4. Run and then bash

The Big Red Run seems like a crazy idea – a 250-kilometre foot race through the Simpson Desert – but funds raised from the event go towards great causes (including childhood diabetes), and all the athletes are consenting adults.

 

Ultra-marathoners from all around compete in the equivalent of 5 marathons in 6 days.

 

Directly after the run, the now annual Big Red Bash, a two-day concert featuring Australian rock royalty, is held on a makeshift stage constructed at the bottom of Big Red, creating a huge desert amphitheatre.

 

It’s fast becoming a pilgrimage that one day may challenge the races for sheer numbers making the trip.

5. The culture quest

While there are no major art spots in the area, there are some sites of significance for traditional custodians of the area, the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people.

 

A tour can be arrange to the Two Boys Dreaming site from the Wirrarri Information Centre (you can’t miss it).

 

While you’re at Wirrarri, browse the attached gallery for some amazing desert-scape photography and local art.

6. Swimming outback style

The pub is only one of the ways to cool down in town.

 

A nice stroll past the bakery will take you to Birdsville Billabong – great for a dip, a yabby hunt or for birdwatchers.

 

For a more adventurous style of outback swim, ask the locals if any of the surrounding (seasonal) waterholes are ripe for a dip. Make sure you get permission first, because many are on private land.

7. Waddi type of trees are they?

Head north out of town (14 kilometres towards Bedourie) and you will happen upon the fish-out-of-water rare desert waddi trees (seeds from these trees were discovered in Wills’ diary).

 

Some of the trees are said to a 1000 years old and their wood is abnormally hard.

 

The best vantage point to see the waddis is atop the mysteriously named Dingo Caves (note, there are no actual dingoes in the caves).

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8. Day-tripping the easy way

There are plenty of legendary outback landmarks close (in a bush context) to Birdsville but just far enough out of town to make them too challenging for first-time 4WD-ers short of recovery and bush skills (or for those flying in).

 

Local company Deserts Edge Tours operates organised and bespoke excursions to places such as Cameron Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet) or Poeppel Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet) in its huge, dune-munching 4WD-bus hybrid.

 

For an aerial perspective of Channel Country, Central Eagle Aviation offer charters and joy flights such as 30-minutes over Big Red.

9. Burke and Wills legacy

Many towns around Australia’s centre have a Burke and Wills encounter story, as does Birdsville.

 

Evidence of the ludicrously intrepid pair’s connection to the area stands about three kilometres south of the centre where one of them is said to have slashed a tree, which still stands today.

 

It’s a subtle but worthy notch on your outback belt.

10. Fly the milk run

For those who fly (instead of drive) from Birdsville back to Brisbane you won’t get that slow-burn iconic outback trip moment, but you’ll have your own unique experience to talk about.

 

The Milk Run, the REX flight back to Brisbane, touches down at a handful of outback towns you’ve probably never been to before, including Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.

 

The steward has to repeat the safety talk every time you take-off despite the fact the passengers are basically the same. Expect a complimentary beverage and biscuit on every leg too.

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Tropical islands, good food & world-class shows: Your eventful guide to a holiday in Townsville

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Townsville is buzzing as the events capital of North Queensland, with a host of festivals, international sporting and arts events on offer.

    Perched between the Coral Sea, the towering pink monolith of Castle Hill, and fringed by ancient rainforest ranges, Townsville North Queensland is a genuine tropical playground.

    Here, find postcard-worthy landscapes all the way from nearby Magnetic Island to inland swimming holes and waterfalls – all dotted with an array of endemic wildlife. Get the heart racing with adrenaline water sports. Soak in a world-class arts scene. And take advantage of a culinary offering that punches well above its weight.

    And, then there’s the fact that Townsville has fast become the destination to an outstanding line-up of events – from live music to top-level sporting contests.

    Whether you have a weekend or weeks, there’s plenty here to fill your tropical getaway.

    Day 1: An eventful day

    Morning

    The Strand in townsville
    Explore The Strand.

    Daily flights offer easy connectivity from all capital cities to Townsville Airport, and within 10 minutes’ drive, you’re in the city centre. Start your stay by recharging with breakfast or coffee at the city’s newest spot, Botaniq Cafe, on the ground floor of the award-winning Bridgewater restaurant on the banks of Ross Creek.

    Start exploring on a breezy walk along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. Here, a waterfront path stretches all the way to the headland of Jezzine Barracks parklands. Admire more than 35 sculptures and artworks, as well as stunning views from the top of the park. Further along, Queens Gardens, established in 1870, offers a cool retreat and is Townsville’s oldest botanic garden.

    Stroll Gregory Street, off The Strand, for boutiques, homeware stores, cafes and restaurants, or follow a self-guided street art walking trail through the city centre, stopping to admire colourful works by big-name artists including Queenslander Fintan Magee.

    Afternoon

    concert in front of castle hill townsville events
    Time your trip for one of many Townsville events.

    For a casual lunch, stop in at Balabite for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired street food. Build your own pita with a choice of fillings, before enjoying a relaxing afternoon in preparation for one of Townsville’s big events.

    Whether it’s a concert from a big-name international band – think Foo Fighters or Guns ‘n’ Roses – or a night cheering on the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup, there’s plenty to entertain you.

    Time your visit for events like the Townsville Folk Festival (June 12-14), Supercars Townsville 500 (July 10-12), Sealink Magnetic Island Race Week (August 27-September 2), North Australian Festival of Arts (September 25 – October 11) or see the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup (coming in 2027).

    Day 2: Island dreaming

    Morning

    Pilgrim Sailing magnetic island
    Take a lunchtime sailing trip with Pilgrim Sailing.

    Fuel up with breakfast at Cbar on The Strand, looking out to your destination for the day: Magnetic Island (or ‘Maggie’ to the locals). Catch a quick ferry to spend the day exploring walking trails through national park, choosing from 23 beaches and trying a hand at the island’s water sports.

    The Forts Walk is the best place to see wild koalas in Australia, and you’re likely to find friendly wallabies at the Nelly or Geoffrey Bay headlands. Try guided snorkelling with Aquascene Magnetic Island or Pleasure Divers, or take a land-based tour with MI Ride Discovery Tours to the secluded west coast of the island.

    Pilgrim Magnetic Island offers four-hour lunchtime sailing trips aboard a 58-foot luxury yacht, dropping in to some of Magnetic Island’s remote bays for snorkelling or swimming and including gourmet grazing platters, drinks and ocean views.

    Afternoon

    picnic bay on magnetic island
    Head to Picnic Bay for delicious dining.

    Refuel after a morning of adventure. Seasalt Arcade at Picnic Bay has several good options. Savour craft brews and Latin tapas at Maggie Island Brewery, opt for bagels and light bites at Lava Lava cafe or fine dining at Restaurant Elsie.

    Now, it’s time to choose your own adventure. Stay the whole day on Maggie, or return to Townsville, where there’s plenty more to discover.

    Head to The Docks at Flinders Street Wharves for lunch. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the beach or join Poseidon Adventures for water sport adventures.

    Evening

    Ardo's Rooftop townsville
    End your day watching the sunset from Ardo’s Rooftop.

    However your day looked, end it with cocktails and canapes at Townsville’s Ardo Rooftop. Find something more substantial at the hotel’s elegant but casual Chef-hatted Japanese restaurant Terasu, where each dish is a work of art.

    Day 3: Natural delights

    Morning

    couple holiding hands at the top of castle hill in townsville
    Join the locals for an early walk to the peak of Castle Hill. (Credit: My Colourful World)

    Join the local early morning pilgrimage to hike up Castle Hill for the best 360-degree views in town, before heading to breakfast at Spirited Goat for gourmet treats and locally brewed coffee.

    A trip to Townsville wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the outer Great Barrier Reef. For those with time, Adrenalin Snorkel and Dive runs full-day trips to the Museum of Underwater Art for snorkellers and divers to admire the reef’s stunning collection of submerged sculptures on John Brewer Reef, about two hours by boat from Townsville.

    Afternoon

    Shorehouse restaurant townsville
    Stop into the award-winning Shorehouse.

    Round off your Townsville getaway with lunch at Shorehouse, awarded Best Restaurant in the North Queensland People’s Choice Awards every year since 2023. Dine on the deck to catch the breeze and sample modern Asian cuisine as you watch the world go.

    Keen for something more to extend your stay? There are always more adventures –new, familiar and with a twist – in the events capital of the North.

    Plan your eventful visit to Townsville North Queensland at townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au.