Birdsville – 10 things to do besides the races

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The Birdsville Races is an Australian outback bucket list item of mythical proportions, with around 7000 pilgrims covering thousands of kilometres to swarm on the remote Queensland town each September (since 1882). But Birdsville ain’t no one horse-race town. If you make it that far into the outback, you should do Birdsville thoroughly. So here are the 10 other must do’s. (words: Steve Madgwick)

1. The pub of many hats

'Hard yard' hats Birdsville Hotel Queensland photo: Steve Madgwick
‘Hard yard’ hats – Birdsville Hotel, outback Queensland (photo: Steve Madgwick).

Don’t just stop outside and snap the obligatory photo of one of the most photogenic outback pubs in Australia (circa 1884) – although you won’t be able to help yourself.

 

Step inside the Birdsville Hotel, reward yourself with a cold beverage and a bite to eat and marvel at the memorabilia. Start by counting the hats stuck to the ceiling of the public bar, each one representing someone who has done the “hard yards" in Birdsville (representing those who have spent more than a year here).

 

The food and accommodation are as good as anywhere you’ll get for miles and miles and miles around.

2. Try a camel pie

camel pie Birdsville Bakery photo Steve Madgwick
The ‘C’ means it’s a camel pie, Birdsville Bakery (photo: Steve Madgwick).

For the adventurous gastronomist, wander across the oval to Birdsville Bakery to sample the town’s culinary gift to the world: the camel pie.

 

Marked with a big ‘C’ on top of the crust, the $6 pastry has a curry zing and a lamb-like texture, the tender minced meat is not lumpy or humpy.

 

If camel’s a trek too far for you, try the kangaroo and claret pie or the berri quandong tart. It’s also extra special because Birdsville’s is one of only a handful of licensed bakeries in Australia.

Birdsville bakery outback Queensland
The (licensed) Birdsville Bakery, outback Queensland.

3. Play in the big red sand pit

Big Red dune Simpson Desert
The 40-metre high Big Red dune, gateway to the Simpson Desert (and 4WDers funpark). (Photo: Steve Madgwick).

Thirty-five kilometres west of the town, along an unsealed but passable road (as long as it’s dry), the trademark ochre dunes of the Simpson Desert begin.

 

Closest to Birdsville are Little Red and Big Red (40 metres high), which are the gateway to the Simpson traverse for hard-core 4WDers.

 

Please note that Big Red is on private land so show respect accordingly. At sunset and sunrise, you’ll get to see why Simpson is truly a redhead.

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4. Run and then bash

The Big Red Run seems like a crazy idea – a 250-kilometre foot race through the Simpson Desert – but funds raised from the event go towards great causes (including childhood diabetes), and all the athletes are consenting adults.

 

Ultra-marathoners from all around compete in the equivalent of 5 marathons in 6 days.

 

Directly after the run, the now annual Big Red Bash, a two-day concert featuring Australian rock royalty, is held on a makeshift stage constructed at the bottom of Big Red, creating a huge desert amphitheatre.

 

It’s fast becoming a pilgrimage that one day may challenge the races for sheer numbers making the trip.

5. The culture quest

While there are no major art spots in the area, there are some sites of significance for traditional custodians of the area, the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people.

 

A tour can be arrange to the Two Boys Dreaming site from the Wirrarri Information Centre (you can’t miss it).

 

While you’re at Wirrarri, browse the attached gallery for some amazing desert-scape photography and local art.

6. Swimming outback style

The pub is only one of the ways to cool down in town.

 

A nice stroll past the bakery will take you to Birdsville Billabong – great for a dip, a yabby hunt or for birdwatchers.

 

For a more adventurous style of outback swim, ask the locals if any of the surrounding (seasonal) waterholes are ripe for a dip. Make sure you get permission first, because many are on private land.

7. Waddi type of trees are they?

Head north out of town (14 kilometres towards Bedourie) and you will happen upon the fish-out-of-water rare desert waddi trees (seeds from these trees were discovered in Wills’ diary).

 

Some of the trees are said to a 1000 years old and their wood is abnormally hard.

 

The best vantage point to see the waddis is atop the mysteriously named Dingo Caves (note, there are no actual dingoes in the caves).

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8. Day-tripping the easy way

There are plenty of legendary outback landmarks close (in a bush context) to Birdsville but just far enough out of town to make them too challenging for first-time 4WD-ers short of recovery and bush skills (or for those flying in).

 

Local company Deserts Edge Tours operates organised and bespoke excursions to places such as Cameron Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet) or Poeppel Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet) in its huge, dune-munching 4WD-bus hybrid.

 

For an aerial perspective of Channel Country, Central Eagle Aviation offer charters and joy flights such as 30-minutes over Big Red.

9. Burke and Wills legacy

Many towns around Australia’s centre have a Burke and Wills encounter story, as does Birdsville.

 

Evidence of the ludicrously intrepid pair’s connection to the area stands about three kilometres south of the centre where one of them is said to have slashed a tree, which still stands today.

 

It’s a subtle but worthy notch on your outback belt.

10. Fly the milk run

For those who fly (instead of drive) from Birdsville back to Brisbane you won’t get that slow-burn iconic outback trip moment, but you’ll have your own unique experience to talk about.

 

The Milk Run, the REX flight back to Brisbane, touches down at a handful of outback towns you’ve probably never been to before, including Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.

 

The steward has to repeat the safety talk every time you take-off despite the fact the passengers are basically the same. Expect a complimentary beverage and biscuit on every leg too.

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Why Hamilton Island is perfect for multi-gen travel

Consider this your cheat sheet to holidaying on Hamilton Island with the clan.

Keeping everyone in your crew happy on holidays is no small feat. Yet ask any parent who’s been and they’ll unanimously agree Hamilton Island multi-gen travel overdelivers – for many reasons.

Taking the family to this premier island destination is a rite of passage for many Aussie parents. Not only is Hamo stuffed to the brim with fun activities to suit all ages, but it’s accessible, safe and super easy to get around thanks to its relatively small size. And I suppose the fact that it’s undeniably stunning doesn’t hurt either.

Whether you’re spending time together creating magical memories or relaxing while giving the young ones some kids’ club time, this guide breaks down everything there is to know about holidaying on Hamilton Island for families.

Getting there, and around

Hamilton Island multi-gen travel on a buggy
Hire a buggy and explore at your own pace.

The easiest and most fuss-free way to get to Hamilton Island is to fly to Great Barrier Reef Airport, located on the island. Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar offer short, direct flights from most major Australian cities, including Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne and Cairns. Alternatively, fly to Whitsunday Coast Airport (PPP) near Airlie Beach, then take a ferry from Shute Harbour with Cruise Whitsundays, which operates services daily.

Once you’re here, rental buggies make it easy to zip around from A to B (not to mention being a fun activity in themselves – the kids will love it).

Where to stay

Reef View Hotel Pool Terrace hamilton island multi-gen travel
Reef View Hotel offers pool and sea. (Credit: Kara Rosenlund)

Part of what makes Hamilton Island so appealing is its diverse range of family-friendly accommodation. Many include return airport or marina shuttles, along with complimentary use of non-motorised watersports equipment – making it easy to relax as soon as you step foot on the island.

Reef View Hotel is one of the most popular picks due to its spacious suites perfect for larger families and proximity to the island’s resort centre – a happening hub of restaurants, pools and water activities.

Meanwhile, families looking for something more self-contained can check into Palm Bungalows. Each modern bungalow is enveloped by lush tropical gardens and offers a kitchenette, bar fridge, microwave and coffee facilities – plus a private balcony for card games and evening drinks.

pool and sup boarders at The Sundays hamilton island
Take in pool and sea at The Sundays.

The Sundays is another fantastic option for families. The newest hotel on Hamilton Island, it has serious bragging rights thanks to its coastal chic design and stellar location at the end of Catseye Beach. Opt for one of the Family Connect Rooms for extra breathing room.

For that relaxed, home-away-from-home feeling, Hamilton Island Holiday Homes hit the nail on the head. Choose from more than 100 self-catering homes dotted around the island that accommodate both large groups and smaller families. From waterfront luxury to spacious villas, there’s something for everyone.

Family tip: Reef View Hotel, Palm Bungalows and The Sundays all participate in Hamilton Island’s Kids Stay Free program, earning themselves a reputation as some of the best family-friendly accommodation on Hamilton Island. No extra charge is added for up to one or two (dependent on the hotel) children under 12 who are sharing a room with parents and using existing bedding.

Where to eat

coca chu on hamilton island
Sit down to a feast at coca chu.

Hamilton Island’s foodie scene is seriously worth its salt. From just-caught seafood to family-friendly staples, even the fussiest of eaters will be satisfied.

Start at coca chu, one of the best Hamilton Island restaurants for families. Spotlighting vibrant Southeast Asian flavours, it offers a lively, high-ceiling setting overlooking Catseye Beach. Nearby is Catseye Pool Club, Josh and Julie Niland’s breezy coastal venue that’s at once elevated and laidback. Dishing up the likes of charcoal tiger prawns with lemongrass marinade and Greek-style lamb shoulder, it’s the perfect place to celebrate birthdays or milestone moments with older kids.

Got young ones who recoil at the sight of vegetables? Not to worry. Head straight to Romano’s for please-all pizza, or Marina Tavern for hearty pub classics in a relaxed atmosphere complete with an outdoor deck.

Catseye Pool Club hamilton island
Grab some tasty bites by the pool at Catseye Pool Club.

For brekkie or lunch, Bob’s Bakery is a family favourite for affordable pastries, sandwiches and pies, while Marina Cafe serves up bacon and egg rolls and salads with fresh smoothies. And Popeye’s does a mean fish and chips to go.

Sails Restaurant is the place to be for poolside bites with views of the Whitsundays’ famous turquoise waters. The kids can splash in the pool while parents sip spritzes and graze on mezze plates of za’atar pita, hummus and olives. The menu leans Mediterranean and Middle Eastern, though you’ll also find plenty of kid-friendly crowd favourites such as ham and cheese toasties. For something extra special, book in the Piper Package – expect exclusive access to a king-size sunbed with a shaded umbrella, plus a chilled bottle of Piper-Heidsieck NV Champagne and a showstopping seafood platter (I still have dreams about it).

Where to explore

hamilton island couple running on trail
Explore the island’s walking trails.

There are bucket loads of family-friendly activities on Hamilton Island that the whole clan can do together. First stop: hiring a buggy and taking your time to explore the island at your own pace. Next stop: getting active and creating memories together in the process.

One of the best activities on Hamilton Island for families is tackling one (or more) of its beautiful bush and walking trails, with the one-hour hike to Passage Peak a standout for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. Morning is a great time to go to beat the heat (and other walkers).

For the active and adventurous, the all-new E-mountain biking facilities make for an adrenaline-packed experience your teens won’t be able to stop talking about. It’s a self-guided trail taking riders to some of the island’s quietest and most scenic pockets, and the knowledgeable staff at Hamilton Island Trails HQ will fit you out with all the gear you need for a safe adventure.

E-mountain biking on hamilton island
Check out the all-new E-mountain biking facilities.

Come sunset, you’d be silly not to head up to One Tree Hill at least once during your stay. Offering breathtaking 360-degree views as the sun brushes the horizon with gold, it’s a popular place for groups and families to come together and enjoy a drink from the pop-up cocktail van.

Family tip: If you’re staying at the Sundays, Reef View Hotel, Palm Bungalows or Hamilton Island Holiday Homes, you’ll enjoy complimentary access to a range of water activities, including catamarans, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and snorkel equipment at Catseye Beach. Keep an eye out for the turtles that love to hang around the shallow fringing reef.

Where to play

heart reef
Take the family on a day tour to places like Heart Reef.

Kids are sure to have a field trip thanks to the island’s abundance of child-centric offerings.

Parents in need of some ‘me time’ can drop little ones between six months and 12 years off at the Clownfish Club, located near the Resort Centre and Pool. Overseen by trained professionals, the nursery offers a calm space for toddlers and babies with a balance of gentle play and rest. Meanwhile, older kids can unleash their imaginations with age-appropriate craft, games and group activities.

Parents seeking a stress-free night out can also make use of Hamilton Island’s babysitting services, which start from $40 an hour.

Hamilton Island Wildlife is another must-visit stop. Fun for children of all ages (and adults too!), the centre provides up-close encounters with a variety of cute and fascinating Aussie animals. Think marsupials, snakes, lizards, koalas and kangaroos, along with a giant saltwater crocodile. Catch the 10am or 2pm daily tours (included with entry) guided by expert keepers, or opt for a 30-minute private or small-group VIP encounter with an animal of your choice.

More kid-friendly entertainment awaits at Palm Valley Activities, where you can race around the go-karting track and reach up to 45 kilometres per hour. Kids under 16 can ride as passengers in double go-karts. Or perhaps try your hand at mini golf at the HI Fitness Club, navigating palms, playful challenges and pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens.

Keen to explore further afield? A wide range of Hamilton Island day trips promise endless excitement, from snorkelling on a Great Barrier Reef tour and chartering a boat to marvelling at the swirling sands of Whitehaven Beach from a scenic plane.

To plan your family island escape, visit hamiltonisland.com.au.