Birdsville10 things to do besides the races

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The Birdsville Races is an Australian outback bucket list item of mythical proportions, with around 7000 pilgrims covering thousands of kilometres to swarm on the remote Queensland town each September (since 1882). But Birdsville ain’t no one horse-race town. If you make it that far into the outback, you should do Birdsville thoroughly. So here are the 10 other must do’s. (words: Steve Madgwick)

1. The pub of many hats

'Hard yard' hats Birdsville Hotel Queensland photo: Steve Madgwick
‘Hard yard’ hats – Birdsville Hotel, outback Queensland (photo: Steve Madgwick).

Don’t just stop outside and snap the obligatory photo of one of the most photogenic outback pubs in Australia (circa 1884) – although you won’t be able to help yourself.

 

Step inside the Birdsville Hotel, reward yourself with a cold beverage and a bite to eat and marvel at the memorabilia. Start by counting the hats stuck to the ceiling of the public bar, each one representing someone who has done the “hard yards" in Birdsville (representing those who have spent more than a year here).

 

The food and accommodation are as good as anywhere you’ll get for miles and miles and miles around.

2. Try a camel pie

camel pie Birdsville Bakery photo Steve Madgwick
The ‘C’ means it’s a camel pie, Birdsville Bakery (photo: Steve Madgwick).

For the adventurous gastronomist, wander across the oval to Birdsville Bakery to sample the town’s culinary gift to the world: the camel pie.

 

Marked with a big ‘C’ on top of the crust, the $6 pastry has a curry zing and a lamb-like texture, the tender minced meat is not lumpy or humpy.

 

If camel’s a trek too far for you, try the kangaroo and claret pie or the berri quandong tart. It’s also extra special because Birdsville’s is one of only a handful of licensed bakeries in Australia.

Birdsville bakery outback Queensland
The (licensed) Birdsville Bakery, outback Queensland.

3. Play in the big red sand pit

Big Red dune Simpson Desert
The 40-metre high Big Red dune, gateway to the Simpson Desert (and 4WDers funpark). (Photo: Steve Madgwick).

Thirty-five kilometres west of the town, along an unsealed but passable road (as long as it’s dry), the trademark ochre dunes of the Simpson Desert begin.

 

Closest to Birdsville are Little Red and Big Red (40 metres high), which are the gateway to the Simpson traverse for hard-core 4WDers.

 

Please note that Big Red is on private land so show respect accordingly. At sunset and sunrise, you’ll get to see why Simpson is truly a redhead.

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4. Run and then bash

The Big Red Run seems like a crazy idea – a 250-kilometre foot race through the Simpson Desert – but funds raised from the event go towards great causes (including childhood diabetes), and all the athletes are consenting adults.

 

Ultra-marathoners from all around compete in the equivalent of 5 marathons in 6 days.

 

Directly after the run, the now annual Big Red Bash, a two-day concert featuring Australian rock royalty, is held on a makeshift stage constructed at the bottom of Big Red, creating a huge desert amphitheatre.

 

It’s fast becoming a pilgrimage that one day may challenge the races for sheer numbers making the trip.

5. The culture quest

While there are no major art spots in the area, there are some sites of significance for traditional custodians of the area, the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people.

 

A tour can be arrange to the Two Boys Dreaming site from the Wirrarri Information Centre (you can’t miss it).

 

While you’re at Wirrarri, browse the attached gallery for some amazing desert-scape photography and local art.

6. Swimming outback style

The pub is only one of the ways to cool down in town.

 

A nice stroll past the bakery will take you to Birdsville Billabong – great for a dip, a yabby hunt or for birdwatchers.

 

For a more adventurous style of outback swim, ask the locals if any of the surrounding (seasonal) waterholes are ripe for a dip. Make sure you get permission first, because many are on private land.

7. Waddi type of trees are they?

Head north out of town (14 kilometres towards Bedourie) and you will happen upon the fish-out-of-water rare desert waddi trees (seeds from these trees were discovered in Wills’ diary).

 

Some of the trees are said to a 1000 years old and their wood is abnormally hard.

 

The best vantage point to see the waddis is atop the mysteriously named Dingo Caves (note, there are no actual dingoes in the caves).

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8. Day-tripping the easy way

There are plenty of legendary outback landmarks close (in a bush context) to Birdsville but just far enough out of town to make them too challenging for first-time 4WD-ers short of recovery and bush skills (or for those flying in).

 

Local company Deserts Edge Tours operates organised and bespoke excursions to places such as Cameron Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet) or Poeppel Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet) in its huge, dune-munching 4WD-bus hybrid.

 

For an aerial perspective of Channel Country, Central Eagle Aviation offer charters and joy flights such as 30-minutes over Big Red.

9. Burke and Wills legacy

Many towns around Australia’s centre have a Burke and Wills encounter story, as does Birdsville.

 

Evidence of the ludicrously intrepid pair’s connection to the area stands about three kilometres south of the centre where one of them is said to have slashed a tree, which still stands today.

 

It’s a subtle but worthy notch on your outback belt.

10. Fly the milk run

For those who fly (instead of drive) from Birdsville back to Brisbane you won’t get that slow-burn iconic outback trip moment, but you’ll have your own unique experience to talk about.

 

The Milk Run, the REX flight back to Brisbane, touches down at a handful of outback towns you’ve probably never been to before, including Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.

 

The steward has to repeat the safety talk every time you take-off despite the fact the passengers are basically the same. Expect a complimentary beverage and biscuit on every leg too.

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9 experiences in and around Noosa you haven’t tried yet

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Noosa’s magic extends beyond the sun and sand. Uncover this popular region’s natural charms and secret spots to get more from your visit.

    Wander through bushland and paperbark forests, linger on a curve of quiet beach, hit the water or hike up a mountain. Whether you’re seeking long languid lunches, savouring the region’s best food and wine, are ready to rejuvenate or are up for an active adventure, there are Noosa experiences for everyone.

    Winter is the perfect time to visit – it’s still warm enough to bask in Queensland’s sunshine and mild temperatures while discovering the natural beauty and sustainable experiences that make this region so popular. It’s easy to see why Australian Traveller readers voted Noosa Australia’s top town to visit.

    1. Explore the hinterland

    Two women kayaking during a Noosa experiences.
    Kayak through Noosa’s peaceful hinterland.

    Choose your Noosa experience – kayaking, abseiling, rock climbing, camping or hiking – with Noosa-based Adventure Tribe. They host guided experiences throughout the region, including in Rainbow Beach, Cooloola and the stunning Noosa Everglades.

    Small group tours with Joel’s Journeys combine hinterland villages with wine and cheese or chocolate tasting, a gourmet lunch, waterfalls, the Everglades and memorable views.

    Plan ahead for the Great Noosa Trail Walk. This 56-kilometre three-day trek into the Noosa Biosphere will help you reconnect with nature over the October long weekend.

    2. Accommodation to suit all budgets

    The bedroom at Elysium Noosa Resort noosa experiences.
    Book into Elysium Noosa Resort. (Image: Elise Hassey)

    Indulge in luxury at one of Noosa’s premium resorts or bring the family for a laidback beach-focused holiday. Anywhere you choose will mean you’re never far from the vacation vibes of Hastings Street.

    The recently rebranded Elysium Noosa Resort has given new life to one of the most central spots in Noosa Heads, while Number One in Hastings Street offers a range of luxury one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments and exclusive penthouse suites, surrounded by the national park and boutique shopping.

    Families will love the space and pools of Mantra French Quarter Noosa. Over at RACV Noosa Resort, a water park and games room compete with the beach for the kids’ attention while adults indulge in the day spa or hit the tennis court or gym.

    For couples, Noosa Blue Resort’s studios and one-bedroom suites have sweeping river, bay and hinterland views from its perch atop Noosa Hill. With two outdoor heated pools, spa, steam room, yoga studio and more, it’s the complete package.

    Travelling on a budget? Halse Lodge offers heritage-listed colonial-style accommodation for backpackers and budget travellers without sacrificing style or comfort, and is just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. Family-friendly Ivory Palms has three pools, a children’s playground, jumping pillow, tennis courts and more.

    3. Reset and rejuvenate

    the massage bed at Sensaura Day Spa, Noosa experiences
    Unwind with spa treatments at Sensaura Day Spa.

    Banish stress, slow down and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Noosa while indulging in pampering treatments. Reset and recalibrate with packages from one of the many day spas – try Sensaura Day Spa Noosa or Noosa Springs Spa.

    Noosa Bespoke offers three thoughtfully designed packages that focus on wellness, active adventures and fresh local produce, all with a focus on sustainability, allowing guests to choose their own way of discovering Noosa.

    For something different, try forest bathing and take a walk in Noosa National Park.

    4. New dining experiences

    Cibaria Noosa experiences
    Enjoy authentic Italian at Cibaria Noosa. (Image: Elise Hassey)

    Stroll Hastings Street to find your own dining vibe. For authentic Italian, head to Cibaria Noosa for everything from a coffee and pastry to amazing pasta and seafood platters.

    Over in Noosa Junction, try something lighter at Atelier Wine Bar. Taste a selection of bar food and platters including charcuterie, cheeses, oysters and more. Then finish off with ‘dessert in a glass’.

    Order out or dine in at Somedays Pizza, where all the ingredients for the organic, wood-fired pizzas are sourced from local farmers, artisans and winemakers.

    5. Where the locals eat

    Rickys River Bar And Restaurant noosa experiences
    Enjoy waterfront views at Rickys. (Credit: Manuel Freudenmann)

    Perennial favourites Bistro C, Season Restaurant Noosa and Sails are absolute beachfront dining options overlooking Laguna Bay. You can almost feel the sand between your toes as you enjoy some of the finest cuisine on offer.

    Locale Noosa’s seasonal Italian menu features handmade pasta, traditional antipasti and delectable desserts. On the riverfront, Rickys River Bar and Restaurant has been luring the locals for years; come for the elegant setting and fabulous food and wine, and stay for the sunsets.

    6. Spot humpback whales

    humpback whale sighting noosa experiences
    Spot whales from May to October. (Credit: The Edit Suite)

    There are plenty of great places to watch the gentle giants of the sea make their annual migration from Antarctica to the warm waters of the Queensland coast between May and October.

    To see whales at play and teaching their calves to breach and tail slap, head to Hell’s Gates or Dolphin Point in Noosa National Park, or to one of the many vantage points along the coast from Sunshine Beach to Peregian Beach. For closer encounters, book a whale-watching boat tour.

    7. Take a country drive

    Three people walking towards Pomona during a Noosa getaway.
    Sample craft spirits at local distilleries.

    Download the Noosa Country Drive map from the Visit Noosa website, or pop into the visitor information centre for a printed copy, then jump in the car to explore craft breweries, gin distilleries, bookshops, country pubs, scenic lookouts and cute cafes.

    Through the villages of Cooroy, Pomona, Eumundi, Cooran and Kin Kin, look out for local markets and galleries for that special souvenir. Want to stay longer? There are farm stays, boutique B&Bs and glamping tents to rest your head. Take time to go horse riding or mountain biking, ride a steam train or explore a small museum. And don’t forget to pick up some fresh produce from a roadside stall.

    8. Explore the eastern beaches

    Sunshine Beach near noosa
    Visit Sunshine Beach, just minutes from Noosa. (Credit: Amy Higg Photo)

    Noosa’s near neighbour beaches, Peregian and Sunshine, are just a short drive south. Peregian Square has boutique shopping, vintage finds, homewares, day spas and antiques, and weekend markets are held twice a month in the beachside park.

    Drop into the Peregian Beach Hotel for a meal and live music, or head to the Sunshine Beach Surf Life Saving Club for views of the patrolled beach. Grab a coffee or juice at plastic-free Sunshine Social and linger on the deck under the pandanus trees.

    9. Discover the Noosa River

    A scenic boat trip during a Noosa getaway.
    Discover Noosa from the water on a scenic boat trip.

    Taking time out on the Noosa River is a serene way of exploring more of this region. Whether by canoe or kayak, a small boat or scenic boat trip, being on the water gives a new perspective on Noosa.

    Head to Terrace Marina for small boats and great coffee, stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and jet skis to explore independently, or join Noosa River Cruise Co for a romantic gondola ride.

    At sunset, board the Noosa Queen to cruise along the river – cool drink in hand – to the shores of Lake Cooroibah.

    Start planning your Noosa getaway at visitnoosa.com.au.