26 Cosy Pubs To Add To Your Winter Hit List

Warm your cockles as winter descends at these cosy pubs and bars around Australia that offer everything from fireplaces to great pub grub and craft beer.

Gathering with friends or family in a cosy pub is one of the best ways to embrace winter in Australia. Whether you’re tempted by Aussie pubs with a fireplace or are simply looking for an excuse to enjoy a strong toddy, nothing beats that feeling of being warm and snug in a pub on a blustery day.

Here is our ultimate guide to 25 of the best cosy pubs around Australia that are must-visits when the mercury drops.

NSW | Tas | WA | Vic | Qld | SA

1. Dry Dock Public House and Dining Room

Feel smug about winter in Sydney by taking the ferry to the Thames St Balmain Terminal and strolling through Mort Bay Park to arrive at the Dry Dock Public House and Dining Room.

the exterior of Dry Dock Public House and Dining Room, Balmain — Balmain’s oldest licensed pub was first built in 1855.

Balmain’s oldest licensed pub has been lovingly restored to its former glory and that renovation includes one of the most convivial places to lounge by a crackling fire in all the land. The restoration of the pub, first built in 1855, has been a labour of love by Peninsula Hospitality and the Balmain community are the lucky recipients.

Dry Dock Dining Room — The fireplace provides the best backdrop for cosy conversations.

Enjoy head chef Ben Sitton’s elevated French-leaning fare such as steak frites and duck liver parfait in the bistro or dining room before nabbing a spot in front of the fire. The Chesterfield in the lounge represents prime Sydney real estate. Ask head sommelier Alessandro Nelli to choose a juicy drop from a list that includes more than 470 bottles and 36 wines by the glass.

Address: 22 Cameron St Balmain

2. Forrester’s, Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW

Sydneysiders have been eating, drinking and getting very merry at the Forrester’s for more than a century. Applejack Hospitality brought out the best of the pub’s attributes when it unveiled its $1.5 million transformation in 2021.

the Big Yorkie food and drinks at Forrester’s, Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW — Forrester’s is renowned for serving the biggest and tastiest roast, The Big Yorkie.

The light-filled pub is now divided into three distinct drinking and dining spaces and what really warms our hearts is the historic tavern’s dedication to the Sunday roast served within the iconic Yorkshire pudding the size of your head with a generous helping of gravy and crispy spuds. We’re not telling porkies: the Big Yorkie, the best pud in the ‘hood, is so popular it’s on offer every day of the week. Iconic.

a dog sitting at the entrance of Forrester’s, Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW — Fur babies are welcome to join the fun at Forrester’s.

Address: 336 Riley St, Paddington

3. The Lord Dudley, Paddington, Sydney, NSW

It’s clear to anyone who loves a pint that the Brits know a thing or two about creating a bit of warmth and atmosphere in a good old-fashioned pub. Enter The Lord Dudley. The family-run pub has been an institution since 1889.

Lord Dudley exterior — Step into one of Sydney’s most loved pubs. (Image: Destination NSW)

And, if you’re after a snug evening in Sydney, this Paddo institution is where you will find a fireplace, live music and Sunday roasts. The Lord Dudley is also a draw for British visitors to Sydney for its iconic pub grub such as pot pies and bangers and mash well as comforting classics such as lamb shanks and chicken schnitties.

Lord Dudley interior and fireplace — This Paddo institution is where you will find a fireplace, live music and Sunday roasts. (Image: Jessica Nash Photography)

Address: 236 Jersey Rd, Paddington

4. Woolwich Pier, Woolwich, Sydney, NSW

A cosy pub does not necessarily need to be dimly lit. Cosy can also mean warm and cheerful, friendly, congenial and comfortable as this charming light-and-bright pub on Sydney’s lower north attests.

the pub exterior of Woolwich Pier, Woolwich, Sydney, NSW — Wind your way to this iconic harbourside pub.

Do a few laps in the Woolwich Baths before nabbing a spot near to the roaring fireplace at the Woolwich Pier Hotel. The iconic harbourside pub, surely one of Sydney’s best-kept secrets, has sweeping views of Sydney Harbour and has been a cornerstone of the community since as far back a 1885. Stay warm with the Sunday roast served with seasonal vegetables, roast potatoes, apple puree, gravy and a Yorkie.

a plate of Porchetta Roast at Woolwich Pier, Woolwich, Sydney, NSW — Stay warm with the Sunday roast.

Address: 2 Gale St, Woolwich

5. The Burrawang Village Hotel, Burrawang, NSW

Corporate casualties fleeing the city for the weekend should make a beeline for The Burrawang Village Hotel. This much-loved summertime destination transforms into one of cosiest pubs in the Southern Highlands for fireside drinks during winter.

a verdant al fresco spot at Burrawang Village Hotel — The Burrawang Village Hotel has a spacious al fresco spot to unwind.

Embrace the warmth of the winter sun in the historic country hotel’s beer garden, which boasts bucolic views over the surrounding countryside, or retreat indoors with Mauger’s sausages and mash or a plate of Young Henry’s beer-battered fish. As well as being plush and cosy, the ‘Wang is family friendly.

an al fresco dining setup at Burrawang Village Hotel — Dine outdoors surrounded by charming countryside views at The Burrawang Village Hotel.

Address: 14 Hoddle St, Burrawang

6. Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel, Sydney, NSW

This iconic Sydney waterfront pub is known primarily for being a destination in summer. But what many Sydneysiders don’t know is that it also fits the cosy category. The Sunset Room is tucked away upstairs at the back of the Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel away from all the see-and-be-seen scenesters sipping spritzes by the sea.

a decorated wedding reception at the sunset room of Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel — The Sunset Room is tucked away upstairs at the back of the Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel.

As well as being a top spot for a bottomless brunch, which will make you feel very ‘in the know’, the pub has comfy sofas arrayed around a log fire. As far as fireside drinking dens go, it’s the kind of place you want to linger while sipping seasonally inspired cocktails. Spotting A-list celebs off to the side only adds to the cachet of this cosy Sydney pub.

the sunset room at Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel — Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel offers a comfy spot for a bottomless brunch.

Address: 10 Marine Parade, Watsons Bay

7. The Duke of Clarence Hotel, Sydney, NSW

The Duke of Clarence is the pub to go to when you’ve got a homesick mate visiting from Great Britain. You will feel like you’ve time-travelled back to London in the 18th century in this cosy Sydney CBD pub where the food ranges from snacks such as curried peanuts and Walker’s crisps – both iconic – to more substantial mains such as beef brisket and Guinness pie.

The Duke of Clarence library interior and fireplace — Travel back to London in the 18th century in this cosy Sydney CBD pub.

The Duke of Clarence also does one of the best Sunday roasts in Sydney, which comes with the option of a pig in a blanket. Find colleagues glued to the bar stools drinking cask ale. Couples congregating in the corners. And solo diners sitting in the dimly lit room lined with bookcases. It’s a ridiculously convivial and cosy pub.

The Duke of Clarence entrance exterior — The Duke of Clarence is a ridiculously convivial and cosy pub.

Address: 152-156 Clarence St, Sydney

8. Charlie Parker’s, Paddington, Sydney, NSW

The moderate-sized Charlie Parker’s has a decidedly cool quotient of customers by virtue of the fact it’s one of Merivale’s hotspots. While it’s technically more of a cocktail bar than a pub, the venue downstairs from Fred’s restaurant in Paddington is dark and dimly lit, like a nostalgic sepia-toned postcard of ‘Sydney in the olden days’.

What you will be instantly struck by is the warm, cosy vibe and low beamed ceilings, exposed brick and sandstone and dark timber tones. The cocktails from mixologists Toby Marshall and Sam Egerton will knock your socks off. And the food? Well, it’s brought to you by the chefs from Fred’s so you will drink and eat well.

Address: 380 Oxford St, Paddington

9. The Rockley Pub, Rockley, NSW

Play scissors, paper, rock to determine the designated driver when you’re road-tripping through Rockley, in the Central Tablelands region of NSW. When Matt Moran reopened The Rockley Pub to reveal its extensive renovations, he put this great Australian town on the map for adventurous epicureans.

the exterior of The Rockley Pub, Rockley, NSW — Matt Moran’s reopening of The Rockley Pub put this great Australian town on the map. (Image: Steven Woodburn)

Matt grew up on his family’s farm in Rockley and his family’s connection to the region dates back to 1883, so it’s been his dream to see the township come to life. Taking the reins at The Rockley Pub, which offers boutique accommodation, has certainly invigorated the historical building if not the tiny township itself.

the dining interior of The Rockley Pub, Rockley, NSW — Pop into the classic Rockley Pub. (Image: Steven Woodburn)

Sightings of celebrity chefs are highly likely here as Moran has a lot of high-profile hospo mates. But regardless, the staff will still treat you like a million bucks. Do as they say and order The Moran Family Farm sausage with garlic mash and peas; it’s a must.

a close-up shot of the building facade of The Rockley Pub, Rockley, NSW — Head to The Rockley Pub for a relaxed country experience. (Image: Steven Woodburn)

Address: 2 Budden St, Rockley

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

10. The Old Fitzroy Hotel, Sydney, NSW

The Odd Culture Group are responsible for enlivening Sydney’s nightlife. So, when news came out that it had taken over The Old Fitz, Sydneysiders breathed a collective sigh of relief.

people dining outside The Old Fitzroy Hotel, Sydney, NSW — While away the afternoon at The Old Fitzroy Hotel.

Yes, the old bargain-basement laksa, beer and a show deal have gone the way of the dodo. But the charm of The Old Fitz remains and the pub, bistro and theatre that has been serving Woolloomooloo luvvies for some 160 years gets a second act.

the dining interior of The Old Fitzroy Hotel, Sydney, NSW — The charm of The Old Fitz never gets old.

Expect British pub food classics such as a chip butty with curry sauce and a roster of regular pub grub with an Aussie accent such as the rissole sanga.

live band playing musical instruments at The Old Fitzroy Hotel, Sydney, NSW — Catch live band performances when you visit The Old Fitz.

The renovations to the Old Fitz have been faithful, which means the old blokes smoking durries out the front have not been deterred. And therein lies the inclusivity that is at the heart of The Odd Culture Group, which is making our cities more exciting one venue at a time.

the building exterior of The Old Fitzroy Hotel, Sydney, NSW — The Old Fitzroy Hotel is not to be missed.

Address: 129 Dowling St, Woolloomooloo

11. The Clarendon Arms, Evandale, Tas

A cracking community is what visitors to The Clarendon Arms will find after following the crowds from the quaint Sunday market into this surprisingly happening pub.

Tables by the fireplace at Clarendon Arms — Explore fireside dining at the Clarendon Arms.

The cosy pub in northern Tassie is near to Launceston and known for celebrating the produce the region is famous for such as Barilla Bay oysters and local artisan cheeses. Take a moment to step outside and admire the kitchen garden, enjoy live music, or simply relax indoors with a glass of local wine. You can’t go past a crumbed lamb rack with jus, Dutch carrots, cauliflower puree and asparagus.

the pub exterior of The Clarendon Arms, Evandale Tas — Head into The Clarendon Arms for a glass or two. (Image: Alastair Bett)

Address: 11 Russell St, Evandale

12. The New Sydney Hotel, Hobart, Tas

Find the warmest couch near the fireplace in this cosy watering hole dubbed the ‘best little pub in town’. New Sydney Hotel is one of the best Irish pubs in Australia, as it’s said to have the best Guinness in Hobart.

friends dining at The New Sydney Hotel, Hobart, Tas — The New Sydney Hotel is said to have the best Guinness in Hobart.

It makes our list of cosy pubs because it was established in 1853 and has the kind of warm and friendly atmosphere that cannot be manufactured. The walls are lined with framed photographs and ephemera. And the menu offers a rotating roster of classic pub grub with a Tassie twist such as the Cape Grim beef and Guinness pie and crispy-skinned pork knuckle. All up, there are 18 beers on tap and more than 125 Irish whiskies on offer.

a dimly lit dining interior at The New Sydney Hotel, Hobart, Tas — Elevate your cold weekends at The New Sydney Hotel.

Address: 87 Bathurst St, Hobart

13. Empire Hotel, Queenstown, Tas

Make sure you ask Siri for directions to Queenstown Tasmania, not Queenstown NZ. In any case, you’ve still got to cross the ditch from the mainland. Just a different one. But once you get to the Empire Hotel, you need not go anywhere for the rest of the afternoon.

the pub exterior of the Empire Hotel, Queenstown, Tas — The historic pub at the Empire Hotel was built in 1901. (Image: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett)

A large traditional dining room awaits at the Empire with a roaring log fire that adds to the ambience and cocktails to keep the conversation flowing. The pub was built in 1901 and is a great place to base yourself before embarking on a scenic journey onboard the West Coast Wilderness Railway, one of many amazing train journeys in Australia. Keep it simple with a warming bowl of soup served with a crusty bread roll.

food and cocktails by the fireplace at Empire Hotel, Queenstown, Tas — Keep the conversation flowing with cocktails by the roaring log fire. (Image: Ros Wharton)

Address: 2 Orr St, Queenstown

14. River Run Lodge, Strathblane, Tas

A cosy pub with accommodation in Tasmania is the stuff of romance. Snag one of the tables at River Run Lodge near the fireplace in this snug Tassie tavern for locally made whiskies and gin.

The pleasure of sitting near the fireplace, watching the flames lick the bricks, will put all other plans on hold for the day. Southern Tasmania comes into its own year-round.

people dining inside River Run Lodge, Strathblane, Tas — Snag a table near the fireplace at River Run Lodge.

But as visitors drawn to the Huon Valley in winter will attest, it’s a truly magical destination at this time of year. Think earthy wood panelling. Oversized furniture. And an amorous atmosphere that channels the warmth of a Canadian ski lodge.

Make like a Kardashian and drape yourself in faux fur and sit, limbs akimbo, on a leather sofa. Meals are also curated with care from locally sourced ingredients. Strewth Strathblane. Who knew?

pouring a drink into the glass at River Run Lodge, Strathblane, Tas — Unwind at River Run Lodge with a drink in hand.

Address: 247 Narrows Rd, Strathblane

15. The Royal, Perth, WA

You can be sure of a warm welcome at this cosy Perth pub where locals have been propping up the bar since 1882. The Royal reopened in 2019 after undergoing a major renovation that maintained the pub’s history, charm and heritage feel.

the pub interior of The Royal, Perth, WA — Head to The Royal Perth for cosy after-work drinks. (Image: Rebecca Mansell)

Head upstairs to settle on a Chesterfield couch and sip wine from the hyperlocal list. The Royal is the perfect Perth CBD location drawing the after-work crowd looking for a comforting pub meal and drink during winter. Pair the free-range half chicken, with chilli garlic vinegar, rice noodles and charred spring onion with a local ale. Happy days.

vintage seats inside The Royal, Perth, WA — You can be sure of a warm welcome at this cosy Perth pub. (Image: Rebecca Mansell)

Address: 531 Wellington St, Perth

16. The Cottesloe Beach Hotel, Perth, WA

The Cottesloe Beach Hotel is a welcoming retreat after a weekend exploring the many unmissable wineries of WA. This Perth institution is famous for its beachside location right on Cottesloe Beach and is the go-to venue to watch the sun sink over the sea.

clinking wine glasses at The Cottesloe Beach Hotel — Rug up with your friends by the fireplace at The Cottesloe Beach Hotel.

Rug up with your friends and sit outdoors in The Terrace in the Beach Club where there are three outdoor fireplaces blazing to keep patrons warm. Beachgoers will also vie for position by the fire inside the Verandah Bar which offers coastal views along the length of Cottesloe Beach.

The chefs pride themselves on provenance, the wines on offer are from local boutique wineries and there are WA craft beers on tap. Settle in to watch a winter storm roll in over the Indian Ocean.

two women dining by the fireplace at Cottesloe Beach Hotel — Swing by the Cottesloe Beach Hotel for a cosy night out. (Image: Jay Turks)

Address: 104 Marine Parade, Cottesloe

17. The Brisbane Hotel, Perth, WA

If you’re on the lookout for a cosy Perth pub with a fireplace that is also dog-friendly, look no further. In a plot twist to the tale of two cities, The Brisbane Hotel is your best bet in Perth.

Dating back to 1898, this Perth establishment offers a beer garden dotted with palm trees and live music that will make you feel like you’re in Hawaiʻi rather than Highgate.

The Brisbane attracts a boho crowd who look like they’re in auditioning for an episode of Portlandia. The Brissy, as it’s affectionately known, defines the genre of cosy pub. Especially when there’s a bowl of pumpkin gnocchi in the mix.

Address: 292 Beaufort St, Perth

18. The Gertrude Hotel, Melbourne, Vic

What do you get when you merge Aussie pub culture with inspiration from Italy? The kind of ‘cosy’ that feels more Milan than Melbourne. Accogliente, if you will.

the dimly lit dining interior at The Gertrude Hotel, Melbourne, Vic — The Gertrude Hotel is not a ye olde kind of cosy pub. (Image: Niki Schuch)

The Gertrude Hotel, on the corner of Napier and Gertrude streets, is not a ye olde kind of cosy pub. There are no vintage couches in sight. Instead, it’s modern and bright with natural wood finishes and heritage stonework.

But what makes the case to while away a Sunday afternoon is the menu. Diners can cross continents with comforting dishes created by chef and co-owner Andy Lockyear (ex-Rockpool) such as hand-stretched pizza and the signature crab linguine. Mangiare.

pizza and wine on the table at The Gertrude Hotel, Melbourne, Vic — Pizza and wine are the perfect cosy combo. (Image: Niki Schuch)

Address: 148 Gertrude St, Fitzroy

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19. Tooborac Hotel and Brewery, Tooborac, Vic

Ask your teetotaller mate with the vintage car to take you for a cruise to the Tooborac Hotel and Brewery for a pub lunch. The bluestone brewery and hotel built around 1857 is the oldest National Trust-listed country pub in the state, dating back to the wild times of gold mining and bushrangers.

And the character-filled pub, a 90-minute drive north of Melbourne, is nothing if not cosy. Book a brewery tour and find out how the lagers and ales are crafted, quench your thirst with a cold one, and then tuck into a mouthwatering lamb and shiraz pie.

the pub exterior of Tooborac Hotel and Brewery, Tooborac VIC — The Tooborac Hotel and Brewery is one of the most iconic pubs in Victoria.

Address: 5115 Northern Hwy, Tooborac

20. The Napier Hotel, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Vic

Melbourne‘s cooler climes call for a hit list of cosy pubs. The Napier Hotel tops it, thanks to its fun British pub atmosphere, friendly vibe and welcoming local clientele.

Sink into the velvety comfort of a chair near the open fireplace or forget the grey of the winter sky over a game of pool with some beardy locals.

It’s difficult to pick a favourite from the menu of this old-school pub but the steak sanga and spaghetti marinara are up there. The solid fare, paired with excellent service, makes a visit to this warm and welcoming Melbourne pub a must.

the exterior of The Napier Hotel, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Vic — The Napier Hotel has become a legendary pub institution in Melbourne. (Image: John Torcasio)

Address: 210 Napier St, Fitzroy

21. Portarlington Grand Hotel, Bellarine Peninsula, Vic

You have the Melbourne-based architects Technē Architecture + Interior Design to thank for the considered redevelopment of this grand old dame, dubbed ‘the Jewel of the Bellarine’.

the dining interior of Portalington Grand Hotel, Bellarine Peninsula, Vic — Hunker down at Portarlington Grand Hotel on a cold day.

The Victorian-era beauty was built in 1888 and has been faithfully restored in the most sensitive of ways thanks in part to that whopping $10 million budget. The Portarlington Grand Hotel is a short 70-minute ferry ride from the Docklands of Melbourne and the bar staff sound a warning bell for ‘Last Drinks’ so you don’t miss your return ferry home.

the building exterior of Portalington Grand Hotel, Bellarine Peninsula, Vic — The Portarlington Grand Hotel is a Victorian-era beauty. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Alternatively, you can book a stay at the pub or somewhere nearby in the Bellarine, one of the best places in Victoria for a getaway. The pub has sweeping views of the water, the You Yangs and the Melbourne city skyline. Hunker down here on a cold day for Portarlington Provencale mussels or prawn linguine.

a look inside the pub at Portalington Grand Hotel, Bellarine Peninsula, Vic — Settle in for a drink or two at Portarlington Grand Hotel. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Address: 76 Newcombe St, Portarlington

22. The Victoria Hotel, Rutherglen, Vic

The Rutherglen community is justifiably proud of The Victoria Hotel. Stage one of the multimillion-dollar redevelopment of the pub is now complete and, as locals will tell you, home is where the hearth is.

a couple talking near the fireplace at The Victoria Hotel, Rutherglen, Vic — Home is where the hearth is at The Victoria Hotel. (Image: By George)

Spend the morning cycling on one of Victoria High Country’s rail trails before you settle in at The Victoria Hotel. Book the 1868 dining space replete with a fireplace. Or simply celebrate reaching the end of the line with refined pub grub, such as whipped cod roe or slow-cooked lamb shoulder. These two dishes likely contributed to the pub winning the Best Regional Pub Restaurant award for 2024.

the pub interior of The Victoria Hotel, Rutherglen, Vic — Find a relaxed spot for drinks at The Victoria Hotel. (Image: By George)

Those in need of rest and refreshments while on a road trip from Melbourne can also book a room and hole up here for the night.

log fire at The Victoria Hotel, Rutherglen, Vic — Sip wine by the log fire. (Image: By George)

Address: 90 Main Street, Rutherglen

23. St Bernard’s, Tamborine Mountain, Qld

Yeah, yeah, we know this cosy pub is in Queensland. But you’d be surprised to hear that the Sunshine State does experience bouts of cold weather on occasion. Especially when you’re in the Scenic Rim.

Interior of St Bernard's pub in Queensland — This classic Queensland pub treats guests to stunning views.

Road-trippers touring Tamborine Mountain should include a stop at St Bernard’s Hotel. Perched on a volcanic escarpment, this classic Queensland pub treats guests to stunning views that stretch all the way to the Gold Coast and Stradbroke Island. Unwind near the cosy pub fireplace or, even better, take a selfie with one of the resident St Bernard dogs. Just don’t forget to deploy the #iloveyourdog hashtag.

St Bernard dogs sitting out the front of St Bernard's pub in Queensland — It wouldn’t be a visit to St Bernard’s without a visit by… well, a St Bernard!

Address: 101 Alpine Terrace, Tamborine Mountain

24. Imperial Hotel, Eumundi, Qld

You’ve got to head for the hills of the Sunshine Coast hinterland to really justify pulling on those boots and donning that knitted beanie. Do that and you’ll fit right in at The Imperial Hotel where the unofficial Eumundi uniform is worn by everyone from in-the-know Brisbanites to young parents and couples having dinner in the dimly lit dining room.

beer on tap at Imperial Hotel, Eumundi, Qld — Beer tastes better on tap at the Imperial Hotel.

It’s a lively atmosphere, especially when you add acoustic music to the mix. The majestic old Queenslander hotel is right across the road from the iconic Eumundi markets, a visit to which is one of the best things to do in Noosa. The schnitties here are so big they need their own postcode, and the cosy pub is a great place to gather for a Sunday sesh.

the signage outside Imperial Hotel, Eumundi, Qld — You’ll find the heritage-listed Imperial Hotel in the charming town of Eumundi.

Address: 1 Etheridge St, Eumundi

25. The Scenic Hotel, Norton Summit, SA

Yes, South Australia has some scorching summers. But it also flips the switch in winter when it averages lows of about eight degrees Celsius. Embrace the southern charm of Adelaide at The Scenic Hotel, sitting near the summit of Norton near Mt Lofty in the Adelaide Hills.

the al fresco spot at The Scenic Hotel, Norton Summit, SA — Take in the sweeping views from The Scenic Hotel. (Image: Zach Crowther)

The epic views from this welcoming watering hole make it a destination in its own right. But a visit to the pub is made more enjoyable in winter thanks to the addition of outdoor fire pits where you can sip a glass of whisk(e)y to keep warm. The pub, which was established in 1869, has been faithfully restored and is a top spot to perch for a lamb rogan josh pie.

the exterior of The Scenic Hotel, Norton Summit, SA — Keep warm by the outdoor fire pit. (Image: Zach Crowther)

Address: Old Norton Summit Rd, Norton Summit

26. The Crafers Hotel, Crafers, SA

Ask AI to conjure up the image of a cosy pub in SA and it’s likely to look a lot like The Crafers Hotel. The iconic pub, with its stonework and open fireplace, is literally hard to go past. The stonework for the original pub on the site was laid in 1839 but the pub sadly burnt down in 1926.

The restored heritage hotel is today lauded for its French-bistro-style cuisine, crafted using South Australian produce. Try delectable dishes like chargrilled kangaroo fillet and confit duck rillette, which can be complemented by a glass or two of wine plucked from a wine room with a 2000-strong collection.

Address: 8 Main St, Crafers

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park — The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd — Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain — Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park — Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola — Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate — Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western — Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree — Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain — Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park — The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.