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The Australian outback: a guide on where to go – and when in 2026

Credit: Randy Larcombe

From wondrous wildflowers to monsoon-charged skies, the outback transforms with the seasons, rewarding travellers who know not just where to go but when.

If you were to capture shots taken over the course of a year in the Australian outback, you’d be left reeling from the barrage of images. It spans multiple climates, cultures and traditional seasonal calendars, encompassing a mesmerising expanse of landscapes – from arid deserts to tropical savannahs.

The high season draws travellers with cooler temperatures and heightened wildlife activity, while the low season brings sweltering heat, dramatic weather and a quieter, more introspective mood. In northern sub-tropical and tropical regions of Australia, such as the Kimberley in Western Australia, the Top End in the Northern Territory and Cape York in Queensland, these two seasons are defined as dry and wet. And although the Australian outback is commonly described through the lens of these two broad seasons, Indigenous calendars paint a more nuanced portrait of the land.

This seasonal outback guide follows the region through the year, mapping its moments – the journeys best tackled in the dry or cooler season and the experiences that come alive in the wet.

What to expect in high season

Spanning May to October, high (or dry) season is the outback at its most accessible. Cooler temperatures, low humidity and open roads make the dry months ideal for tackling big distances and iconic journeys. Wildlife gathers around shrinking water sources and landscapes sharpen into focus. It’s the season for long walks, expedition cruises and remote stays that rely on terra firma and reliable access.

It’s also peak travel time. Prices rise, popular experiences book out early and some places feel far busier than their vastness suggests. But for travellers wanting clarity, comfort and the freedom to roam, this is when the outback rolls out the welcome mat.

When: May to October

Best for: Icons, long-distance travel, cruising

Expect: Cooler nights, premium pricing, more travellers

Best things to do in the outback during high season

Cruise the Kimberley’s wild coast

cruising the Kimberley
Cruising the Kimberley’s stunning coastline with PONANT is a life-changing experience. (Credit: Nick Rains)

Luxe expedition ships from the likes of PONANT Explorations and Silversea bring a polished edge to the bucket-list experience of cruising the Kimberley. It’s about access as much as indulgence, landing at mind-blowing places like King George Falls, Horizontal Falls and Montgomery Reef. Australian-owned operators Coral Expeditions and True North Adventure Cruises, the latter part of the Luxury Lodges of Australia portfolio, also use the ocean as a gateway to reach WA’s most remote corners.

Discover goldmining history in Clermont

a scenic flight with Bush Heli-services
Soar over dramatic landscapes on a heli-tour.

The outback doesn’t have to be a Big Lap–style commitment. In many regions, it’s closer than you think. For road trippers following the Pacific Coast Way, a few hours’ detour inland from Mackay delivers you to Clermont and the surrounding Isaac towns in the heart of Queensland’s gold country. Here, rugged landscapes invite hands-on adventure: fossick for gold with Golden prospecting tours, camp beneath the Milky Way or take to the skies on a scenic flight with Bush Heli-services to see golden plains and hidden waterways from a perspective few experience.

Go hiking

emus on the Arkaba Walk
Experience wildlife and even wilder landscapes on the Arkaba Walk. (Credit: Randy Larcombe)

There’s nothing like using your own two feet to connect with the soul of the outback. Part of Great Walks of Australia, the Arkaba Walk is one of the country’s most coveted hiking holidays and traverses the ancient landscapes of South Australia’s Ikara-Flinders Ranges. Days are spent on guided hikes in and around Wilpena Pound, with nights split between swag-camping under the stars and the refined comforts of historic Arkaba Homestead.

Alternatively, the five-day Signature Kimberley Walk with Walk into Luxury, will see you heli-hiking the Bungle Bungle Range and bedding down at El Questro.

the Uluru-Kata TjutaSignature Walk
The Uluru-Kata Tjuta Signature Walk spans 54 kilometres. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/Tasmanian Walking Co/Michael Peters)

Or be among the first to walk Tasmanian Walking Company’s new Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa Signature Walk in the Red Centre, opening to the public in April 2026. The exclusive hike will span 54 kilometres over five days and four nights, and has been developed in consultation with Yankunytjatjara and Pitjantjatjara peoples (Aṉangu), the Country’s Traditional Owners.

Experience a seasonal stay

views from Rangelands Outback Camp deck
The sun-drenched deck boasts incredible views. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland/Reuben Nutt)

From Rangelands Outback Camp near Winton in Queensland’s Dinosaur Country and Bullara Station on a sprawling cattle farm south of Exmouth to the off-grid luxury of Bamurru Plains on the fringes of Kakadu National Park, many of the outback’s best station stays and lodges are open seasonally – making a stay here an even more unique outback experience.

Get a bird’s-eye view on an air safari

the King George Falls, Kimberley
Soar over King George Falls on a scenic flight. (Credit: Tourism Western Australia/Chris Searl)

For high-flyers, an air safari is one of the most incredible Australian outback experiences. Take to the skies for Kimberley Experiences’ six-day Luxury Kimberley Coast Helisafari adventure with HeliSpirit to be immersed in the majesty of the region from the comfort of a chopper, soaring over magical landscapes such as King George Falls and the Berkeley River. The tour, which leaves from Kununurra, also includes stays in remote (yet luxe) accommodations including the Kimberley Coastal Camp.

BFC Air Safaris ventures everywhere from Uluṟu to the vast salt pan of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre in South Australia – which experienced a once-in-a-generation flooding event in 2025. Seeing it at sunrise or sunset is not to be missed, according to Brisbane Flight Charter founder James McIlvenny. “Lake Eyre when dry is an amazing white salt landscape against the red dirt of the desert," he says, “while wet provides the most amazing photos of cloud reflections on the water – and, if you are lucky, can be pink in colour from the effects of algae."

Attend an outback event

barunga festival
Barunga Festival celebrates culture and community. (Credit: Tourism NT/ Alana Holmberg)

From dust-kicking rodeos to rich cultural festivals, the best events in the outback bring the buzz with a whole lot of community energy. Expect traditional Indigenous dance, spear throwing and cooking at Barunga Festival (NT) in June, snag tickets to the Birdsville Big Red Bash (Qld) to see musical stars onstage in July, or cheer on the bull riders at Mount Isa Mines Rodeo (Qld) in August.

Take an iconic train journey

The Ghan from above
The Ghan traverses cinematic landscapes.

Cutting a swift path through the country’s interior by train is a rite of passage for many Aussies. Journey Beyond Rail’s 2027 season marks a significant shift for The Ghan, with the northbound journey from Adelaide/Tarntanya to Darwin/Garramilla extended to three nights and four days. With departures between March and November, the all-new Legendary Ghan route is a slower passage north that allows more time for additional off-train experiences everywhere from Ikara-Flinders Ranges to Alice Springs/Mparntwe.

Meanwhile, APT Luxury Travel’s eight-day Spirit of Outback Queensland 2026 tour ventures from Brisbane/Meanjin to the heart of Queensland’s interior, with highlights along the way including a stop in Longreach to explore the Qantas Founders Museum before embarking on a farmstay at Toogunna Plains and a craft distillery tour in Roma.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Go on a road trip

a 4WD on the Gibb River Road
Road trip along Gibb River Road in WA’s Kimberley. (Credit: Sean Scott)

High season offers the consistency and access that outback road trips rely on, allowing travellers to focus on the journey rather than the conditions: in northern Australia, the dry season brings open roads and firm tracks as rivers recede – making it the perfect time to hit the Gibb River Road or Savannah Way; in the Red Centre, the cooler months make long distances and outdoor stops far more manageable.

the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail
The Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail.

Qld Music Trails – The Outback is a self-drive adventure from Charleville to Mount Isa blending red dirt horizons with live music and local encounters, culminating in the Outback Sounds festival headlined by Kaylee Bell and The Wolfe Brothers. Or explore outback art along the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail near Barcaldine, featuring pieces made from recycled materials by local artist Milynda Rogers.

Join a trusted tour

AAT Kings at Kata Tjut−a
Wine time with AAT Kings at Kata Tjuṯa. (Credit: Tourism NT/Tourism Australia)

Sometimes, it’s best to call in the experts who know the outback like the back of their hand. Outback Spirit’s immersive small-group 4WD tours access places many tour operators can’t reach across Arnhem Land, the Kimberley, Central Australia, Cape York and beyond.

Meanwhile, AAT Kings has been fine-tuning coach travel in Australia for more than 100 years. Short on time but big on ambition? Its 15-day Outback Adventure traces the ribbon of bitumen that is the Stuart Highway as it cuts its way through a vast swathe of the country from Adelaide to Darwin/Garramilla. Guests experience everything from South Australia’s saw-toothed Ikara-Flinders Ranges through to the Northern Territory and highlights of the Red Centre, before continuing further north, where the heat thickens and your journey ends in the Top End capital.

What to expect in spring

The Northern Territory’s Red Centre – including Alice Springs/Mparntwe, Kings Canyon/Watarrka and Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park – follows a semi-arid climate, where temperature matters more than rainfall. While summer brings extreme heat and winter nights can be cold, spring sits comfortably in between.

For Outback Cycling director Allison Bitar, spring is the best window for visiting Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park. “[It] is truly the sweet spot for visiting Uluṟu," she says. “Days are beautifully warm without the intense summer heat, making it ideal for cycling, walking and exploring the base of this iconic landmark in comfort. Cool mornings, clear skies and mild afternoons create perfect outdoor adventure conditions. Even better, spring brings fewer crowds, giving you more space to soak up the serenity, take photos without the rush and enjoy a more personal connection with this extraordinary landscape."

When: September to November

Best for: Wildflowers, outdoor adventures, local connection

Expect: Vibrant landscapes, mild temperatures, room to roam

Where to see wildflowers in the outback

pink wildflowers of Morawa
The gorgeous pink wildflowers of Morawa. (Credit: Tourism Western Australia/Sarah Hewer)

Each spring, Australia’s outback shakes off its dusty hues and bursts to life, with more than 12,000 species of wildflowers transforming the arid landscapes into kaleidoscopes of colour. The blooms typically appear from late winter through spring (July–November), though their scale and timing depend strongly on winter rainfall.

If there’s a global capital of wildflowers, Western Australia’s Golden Outback makes a convincing claim. With about 60 per cent of its wildflower species found nowhere else on Earth, the state’s displays are outrageously impressive; expect native cornflower, eremophila, flannel bush, acacias and bachelor buttons. Coalseam Conservation Park is famous for its fields of everlastings, while Mt Augustus treats visitors to fluffy pink mulla mulla. The season starts up north from July and gradually sweeps south, with a network of Wildflower Trails guiding travellers to the top spots. And, if you time it right, the Bloom Festival (usually held mid-September through October) by Great Southern Treasures adds an extra special layer of celebration.

But you don’t need to head west to get your floral fix. The mauve, hibiscus-like Sturt’s desert rose is the Northern Territory’s floral emblem and can be seen for much of the year, peaking in July and August.

wildflowers in spring
Experience technicoloured blooms in spring. (Credit: Tourism Western Australia/Sarah Hewer)

“After winter rains, the desert around Uluṟu bursts into colour as native wildflowers bloom across the dunes and spinifex plains. On your ride around the base of Uluru, keep an eye out for delicate desert daisies, vibrant purple mulla mulla and tiny yellow blooms dotting the red earth," says Outback Cycling director Allison Bitar.

The outback NSW town of Tibooburra is another springtime hotspot. In nearby Sturt National Park, a drive along Gorge Loop Road or stroll on the Jump-Up Walking Track may reward you with sightings of Sturt’s desert pea, which thrives in red sandy soil and flaunts red leaf-shaped petals dotted with a black centre.

What to expect in low season

Between November and April, the warmer months transform the outback into something more dramatic altogether. This is the season many travellers avoid – and the one that rewards those willing to lean into its rhythms. Waterfalls thunder back to life, landscapes turn improbably green and the skies deliver daily theatrics as heat builds and rain sweeps across the lands. With fewer visitors around, experiences feel more intimate and the land more alive.

Travelling in the wet requires flexibility. Some roads close, itineraries shift and mother nature is in charge. But for those drawn to water, wildlife and the raw power of the natural world, the outback in summer offers a deeper, more immersive encounter.

When: November to April

Best for: Surging waterfalls and rivers, storm watching, unique experiences

Expect: Heat and humidity, fewer travellers, shifting weather conditions

Best things to do in the outback during low season

Go chasing waterfalls

Kimberley falls with True North
Chase Kimberley falls with True North.

There’s no better time to seek out the Kimberley’s waterfalls than during wet season, when monsoonal rains bring the wild land and waterways to life with roaring torrents and spellbinding summer storms.

True North’s Kimberley Waterfall cruises
True North’s ships take you into the heart of the action.

Waterfall chasers can jump onboard expedition company True North’s Kimberley Waterfall cruises, operating at the end of the wet season in March and April. Discover iconic natural wonders, such as the gripping Horizontal Falls and King George Falls, along with abundant wildlife and ancient rock art – all attesting to nature’s overwhelming power, as well as offering a glimpse into one of the oldest living civilisations on Earth.

Visit billabongs and national parks in the Top End

Yellow Water Cruises at sunrise
Morning magic with Yellow Water Cruises. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/Kakadu Tourism Cooinda Lodge)

Come wet season in the Northern Territory’s Top End, wetlands flood, ecosystems thrive and rainbows stretch across the sky. Drift over the ethereal Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba) billabong at sunrise with Yellow Water Cruises. Witness giant termite mounds.

Wangi Falls from above
Wangi Falls in spectacular Litchfield National Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/Jackson Groves)

Visit Litchfield National Park’s stunning falls. Encounter living dinosaurs (crocs) and discover Indigenous stories that track back more than 65,000 years. Travellers can experience it all with Ethical Adventures on its two-day Litchfield and Kakadu tour, where you’ll join a maximum of 10 guests and relax in climate-controlled Cooinda Lodge.

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Visit famous attractions without the crowds

Field of Light in the desert near Uluṟu
Field of Light blends art, nature and culture. (Credit: Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia/Matt Lambley)

One of the strongest draws of the low season is the opportunity to experience legendary sites sans the crowds and steep prices. Of course, Uluṟu is a given. The monolith’s ancient wisdom, cultural significance and colour-changing majesty come sunrise and sundown are all the more splendid when you’re not sharing the moment with busloads of visitors. While in the Red Centre, don’t miss Kings Canyon/Watarrka’s sculptural gorges and Field of Light in the desert near Uluṟu – an astounding art installation comprising 50,000 spindles of light that’s celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.

See constellations and celestial events

stargazing at Warrumbungle National Park
Stars illuminate the sky above Warrumbungle National Park. (Credit: Destination NSW/Daniel Tran)

In the summer months through to March, keep an eye out in the outback skies for the Orion the Hunter constellation – we recommend catching it from NSW’s Warrumbungle National Park, Australia’s first Dark Sky Park. In the NT, Ayers Rock Resort runs one-hour Outback Sky Journeys (April–March) that explore the vast southern night sky through telescopes and ancient Indigenous stories. And don’t miss the total lunar eclipse on 3 March in 2026 (it won’t happen again until 2028), when the Earth’s shadow will turn the moon a brilliant rusty-red hue. Plus, look out for the annual equinox around 20–21 March, when the sun crosses the equator from south to north.

Take a wet season air safari

an air safari over the Buccaneer Archipelago
Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago. (Credit: Tourism Western Australia)

The outback has no bad angles – but experiencing the wet season from above is another level of breathtaking. Take to the skies with Air Adventure and discover Arnhem Land and the Top End from a bird’s-eye perspective on the multi-day Wet Season Spectacular tour, marvelling at swollen flood plains and thundering falls after the season has reached its peak. The tour also includes stays at Cicada Lodge and Mt Borradaile. Or head to the Kimberley, where you’ll find equally mesmerising gem-hued waterways carving trails through rocky ochre contours.

the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm from above
Touch down at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm with Air Kimberley. (Credit: Tourism Western Australia)

Onboard the Buccaneer Explorer – Wet Season scenic flight with Air Kimberley, you’ll witness King Sound, home to Australia’s largest tidal movements and the Buccaneer Archipelago’s maze of 2-billion-year-old sandstone islands, before touching down at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm for insights into Australia’s world-enviable pearling heritage.

Traverse the outback by rail

a Gold Premium Cabin, Indian Pacific
Travel in style aboard the Indian Pacific.

From tiger-orange sunsets and escaping the heat to dining on regionally inspired meals while traversing vast rugged landscapes, exploring the outback by rail in the summer months promises myriad forms of magic. Plus, it’s when you’ll typically score lower prices on iconic voyages.

the Indian Pacific passing by WA’s Lake Julia
The iconic Indian Pacific train passing by WA’s Lake Julia. (Credit: Andrew Gregory)

Cross the Nullarbor Plain on the Indian Pacific by Journey Beyond Rail, which offers itineraries year-round between Sydney/Warrane and Perth/Boorloo, and you’ll be travelling along the longest stretch of straight railway track in the world. The all-inclusive journeys follow in the footsteps of bush pioneers and legendary adventurers, passing arid deserts, rocky valleys and historic goldfields.

Best time for stargazing in the outback

Broken Hill stargazing
Spot the Milky Way in Broken Hill. (Credit: Destination NSW/Damian Bennett)

The dark, vast and uninterrupted night sky of Australia’s outback is one of the best places in the world for admiring celestial spectacles. While late autumn and winter (May – August) is generally seen as the best time for outback stargazing due to cool, crisp nights and clear viewing conditions, the outback offers incredible stargazing opportunities year-round.

As cooler temperatures settle in, so does the Milky Way. It shimmers prominently overhead alongside annual meteor showers such as the Eta Aquariids (5–6 May) and Southern Delta Aquariids (predicted to peak around 29–31 July). We recommend catching it from NSW’s Warrumbungle National Park, Australia’s first Dark Sky Park. Or, for stellar South Australian nightscapes over the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, join the stargazing experience at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary or base yourself at Rawnsley Park Station overlooking striking Wilpena Pound.

For year-round skygazing, Outback Astronomy in NSW’s Broken Hill offers guided Sky Shows; Earth Sanctuary in Alice Springs/ Mparntwe runs astronomy tours; Uluru Astro Tours lets you soak in the sky with Australia’s most iconic monolith as your backdrop; and Winton in Outback Queensland is home to Australia’s first internationally certified Dark Sky Sanctuary.

Best time for birdwatching in the outback

gouldian finches inKakadu National Park
Look out for vibrant gouldian finches in Kakadu National Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/Paul Thomsen)

The best time to go birdwatching in the Australian outback is in the cooler drier months from May to September, when birds congregate around water sources. In summer, rainfall can make some regions difficult to access.

Become a twitcher, grab your binoculars and look to the skies, treetops and billabongs for an array of rare birdlife during Kakadu Bird Week (23–27 September). Kakadu is home to one-third of Australia’s bird species, with more than 280 including colourful kingfishers and gouldian finches.

Discover South Australia’s biodiverse wetlands, desert ranges and eucalyptus groves on the Premium South Australia Outback birding expedition (March–November), part of Australian Wildlife journeys. Or join the experts on Australian Geographic Travel’s eight-day Mallee and Outback Birds of Victoria and Mungo tour, keeping your eyes peeled for the turquoise flashes of Mulga parrots and elusive emu-wrens.

Indigenous seasons in the outback

Kakadu plum fruit salad at Taste of Kakadu
Kakadu plum fruit salad at Taste of Kakadu. (Credit: Tourism NT/Michael Costa)

Based on thousands of years of local knowledge, Traditional Owners recognise multiple different seasons defined by variations in the skies, rainfall, plants and animals.

There are many calendars across Australia, such as the three major seasons of the Miriwoong in Kununurra, including the wet season of nyinggiyi-mageny, rich in plant and animal life; and the five seasons of the Jawoyn calendar in the Katherine region, including hot and dry Jungalk (September – November), when thunderclouds build and the nitmi (cicadas) that lend their name to Nitmiluk Gorge sing to herald coming rains.

dinner at Dird Full Moon Feast
Bush flavours bring people together at Dird Full Moon Feast. (Credit: Tourism NT/Helen Orr)

The six seasons of Kakadu include humid Kudjewk (monsoon season, December – March) which sees an explosion of animal and plant life; Bangkerreng (windy storm season, April); Yekke (beginning of cooler season, May – mid-June) when water lilies carpet billabongs and flowering Darwin woollybutt appear; Wurrkeng (cold season, mid-June – mid-August) when floodplains dry out and birds crowd shrinking water sources; Kurrung (hot and dry season, mid-August – mid-October) when local Aboriginal people hunt file snakes and long-neck turtles; and Kunumeleng (pre-monsoon season, mid-October – late December) when thunderstorms build and humidity increases. These seasons of Kakadu are set to be celebrated through the dry season at Cooinda Lodge’s Dird Full moon feasts. Or time your trip around Karrimanjbekkan An-me Kakadu: Taste of Kakadu festival in May.

Travellers can also learn about the seasonality of native bush foods and plants on a tour of the Gwoonwardu Mia Aboriginal heritage and cultural centre in WA’s Gascoyne region.

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Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
    Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

    Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

    “Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

    Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten, the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

    heritage buildings in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

    Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

    Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

    Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
    Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

    For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

    You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery, a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

    How Ballarat is preserving the past

    artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
    The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

    While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

    The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

    artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
    Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

    Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

    A city steeped in food and flavours

    Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
    Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho, José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

    The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

    a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
    Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits. At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

    the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
    The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

    The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

    one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
    The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

    Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

    Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Getting there

    It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

    Staying there

    Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial, which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

    a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
    Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

    Eating there

    dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
    The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

    Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

    Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

    dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
    Dining at Grainery Lane.

    Playing there

    a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
    An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

    a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
    Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

    The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections.

    Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
    Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

    Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle, ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.