Catching bulls in Cape York

Michele Maddison Michele Maddison
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You read that right: catching bulls in Cape York…  Michele Maddison takes us along on the ride of her life.

Tranquillity. As you pry your eyes open, lying in your swag by the river, sunbeams filter through the trees and birds join in the early morning choir. Swat – go away fly, you’re destroying my oasis of peace. Suddenly over the embankment comes the roar of the Landy engine, oasis gone. It was time to get up and embark on a day of outback adventure… bull-catching.

Michele and her bull-catching compatriots in action, sleeping out in swags alongside their beloved (and impressively bull-barred) Wildfire.

How do you catch a bull?

Now, for a greenhorn like myself, I couldn’t even begin to imagine what this entailed. I thought riding around in a Landy (affectionately named Wildfire) looking like something off a Mad Max film set couldn’t be too hard. I mean, there’s no doors, a missing windshield, a huge V-shaped object protruding out front (that’s one heck of a bull bar) and no padding on the metal seats – but lucky I have extra city-slicker padding of my own.

One of the shrinking waterholes spotted on Michelle’s trip during the dry season.

We’re on Southwell Station, 200km from Pormpuraaw on Cape York, accessible by 4WD and light aircraft only. We’re cruising along the tracks of the 200km2 station, not another soul in sight. It’s the dry season, shrinking watering holes pass by, giant termite mounts, dry grasslands, crisp Australian bushlands, and did I mention the dust? Apart from admiring the raw beauty of the bush we had to keep an eye out for the elusive bull. Who, I might add, hasn’t seen humans before.

Bull-spotting and breakaways

A bull is spotted, and it would have to be in the thickest part of the bush? Greenhorn one, that would be me, gets thrown in the front as Grandpa vacates by standing behind a tree. I’m wondering if maybe I should be joining him. Greenhorn two, my friend Adrian, stays braced in the back between the two steel bench seats. We get told to hold on, keep your eyes on the bull, and tell the driver when a breakaway appears. “Breakaway? What’s a breakaway?"

 

“That would be a huge hole in the ground, caused through erosion. They keep popping up in different spots depending on each wet season."

 

Basically, the whole Wildfire, with us in it, could be swallowed up and we get to meet the Hobbit in Middle Earth. Okay, slight exaggeration, but you get my meaning. This is slightly hindered by the bush sometimes covering these so called breakaways. The fact that Wildfire is ploughing through, at speed, to get to the bull the quickest way possible has my knuckles white on the bar in front of me. If I had hackles, they’d be standing on end. My heart is pumping but there’s a huge smile on my face. I must be mad.

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Catching the bull

Wildfire and bull start to count in on the bush tango: 1, 2, 3, 4… we go straight, to the left, straight, to the right, left, right, straight, left again at a cruising altitude from ground zero to about 60km/h, knuckles getting whiter.

 

Our adrenalin levels rise as we get closer, then someone yells; “Watch out for that tree!" Oh, right, so that’s the reason the big bull bar is at the front, so we can go through those. “Mmm, I believe that was a eucalyptus," I think as I spit leaves from my mouth. I was getting a little hungry anyways.

 

After the excitement of eating eucalyptus, we’ve momentarily lost the bull, but he’s soon spotted again and I actually think he’s grinning. He got away with that one. However, we don’t give up that easy. It was time for the waltz to get him. This love affair was over, and we meant business.

 

Round, around and around again we go. Suddenly both parties halt. Wildfire and bull stare off. Greenhorns get reminded that if the bull goes for you, don’t jump on the lap of the driver, dive for the back. Now I’m eyeballing those huge horns and I realise why my husband decided to stay camp-side. Mental note for next time.

 

The dance resumes, and we catch our partner by surprise and Wildfire has the bull. Everything happens so fast, the next thing we know the brave ones are back in the car, bull tied to the tree awaiting collection by the tractor and trailer that follows later.

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Time for another round

The catch for the day is loaded onto the trailer.

We pick up Grandpa, who’s made us a lovely billy tea while waiting for us to finish the dance. I think my heart is still running over the legal limit but feel so alive, I can’t wait to do it again. We finish our tea then head off to spot more bulls. We proceed to find another 12, not a bad catch for the day.

 

Hours later we pull up outside the homestead and recap our remarkable day. No feeling in my extra city-slicker padding? Check. More Australian bush in my hair, down my polo shirt than I care to mention? Check. New hair colour – dust beige, when pat on head like talc powder escaping? Check. A huge smile you can’t wipe off my face? Double check.

Southwell Station
Michelle based herself at Southwell Station.

I may have started out the greenhorn but left with a brand new respect for the people who live on the stations in the Cape York. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat!

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Michele Maddison

Michele Maddison

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A gourmand’s guide to eating your way around Hamilton Island

(Credit: Nikki To)

    Eleanor Edström Eleanor Edström
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    From poolside bites and tasting flights to seafood plates and dry-aged steaks, a foodie adventure on Hamilton Island is worth every bite.

    Hamilton Island’s sun-lacquered shores have long magnetised travellers craving an escape from reality. But what’s less expected – and more interesting – is just how assuredly this Whitsundays idyll delivers on the culinary front. Dialling up the flavour as much as the barefoot allure, the Hamilton Island food scene offers world-class dining and drinking options, spanning slick fine-dining moments to just-caught seafood served within sight of the sea. Let’s dig in.

    Catseye Pool Club

    Catseye Pool Club
    Catseye Pool Club offers stunning beach views. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

    Framing the electric blues of Catseye Beach from The Sundays hotel, Catseye Pool Club is Hamilton Island’s latest culinary prodigy. Shown to our table, we thread through rattan chairs, Zellige tiles and tumbling greenery that opens up to Coral Sea shimmer.

    The poolside restaurant is the brainchild of Sydney-based chef duo Josh and Julie Niland, who have brought their relaxed yet elevated dining ethos north. The menu – designed to bring people together – is made for sharing, each hero ingredient orbited by a palette of sides to mix, match and layer as you please.

    My thyme cocktail – woody with scotch, lifted by lime leaf – pairs perfectly with the charcoal grilled prawns entree, which is served with tumeric and lemongrass marinade, macadamia satay sauce and a thai-leaning sour green mango salad. Each forkful lands differently, but all are a delight. Then comes the coral trout. True to Josh Niland’s ‘scale-to-tail’ philosophy, the fish is presented whole in a theatrical crescent, a tiny fork stuck into its cheek in a nod to Niland’s declared prize cut. Ribbons of zucchini resembling gauzy curtains bring brightness and snap, while kasundi lends depth and warmth. It’s tongue-tantalising, special occasion dining with humanity.

    Sails Restaurant

    Sails Restaurant hamilton island
    Settle into casual poolside dining. (Credit: Nikki To)

    A more casual poolside dining scene awaits at nearby Sails Restaurant, where Eastern Mediterranean flavours are dished up with an island twist. Chermoula chicken skewers and barramundi souvlaki lie on the more filling side of the menu, while the sumac squid and stone-bread flatbread with za’atar – arriving alongside pomegranate molasses, beetroot hummus and crushed macadamias – are perfect light bites after a dip in the pool. And don’t miss the garlic lemon scallops.

    The setting is equally part of the draw. Sunlight floods the high-ceilinged dining room, while outdoor tables look out across the glittering expanse of Catseye Beach. Holidaymakers in oversized sunglasses sip spritzes beneath umbrellas, the gentle clink of plates mixing with splashes from the adjacent pool. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to linger long after lunch.

    Bommie

    cuttlefish dish at Bommie restaurant Hamilton Island Yacht Club
    Head to the Hamilton Island Yacht Club for a taste of Bommie. (Credit: Nikki To)

    Tucked into a sleek curved wing of the Hamilton Island Yacht Club, Bommie delivers experiential fine dining with a sense of occasion. Led by award-winning Executive Chef Ryan Locke, the seasonal menu champions local and native Australian ingredients whipped up into a modern display of creative precision.

    Inside the dim-lit dining room, guests can choose between the Tasting Menu or Chef’s Signature Degustation. Sourdough with pine oil sets the tone for the six-course tasting menu, beautifully presented in a bed of pine needles alongside smoked paperbark butter. I love how the squid ink choux pastry is served with flavour-popping native finger lime, which our waiter encourages us to eat caviar-style. Standout moments continue with the wattle-seed-crusted venison elevated by red fruit and pickled beetroot swirls; the meat is perfectly pink in the middle and an homage to the island’s history as a deer farm.

    Pebble Beach

    qualia Resort Pebble Beach
    qualia Resort guests can dine at Pebble Beach. (Credit: Lean Timms)

    Exclusive to qualia Resort guests for lunch and dinner, Pebble Beach is Hamilton Island’s most serene expression of seasonal island dining. Ocean-facing chairs dot a timber deck that spills straight onto the resort’s private beach, while crystalline turquoise waters stretch to meet distant islands – a scene far prettier than any postcard could capture.

    The recently refreshed menu doubles down on seasonality and bright, layered flavours. While the more substantial T-bone steak with hazelnut honey carrots tempts, we go lighter: Coffin Bay oysters with Champagne foam and keffir lime dust kick us off splendidly, followed by Byron Bay burrata served with balsamic and caramelised figs. The fennel and orange salad topped with succulent grilled chicken is utterly delectable, but it’s the zingy, oh-so-fresh soft shell fish tacos that I can’t stop thinking about. It all goes down a treat with a glass of delicate Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne.

    Beach Club Restaurant

    Beach Club Restaurant hamilton island
    Book in advance for Beach Club Restaurant. (Credit: Nikki To)

    A lunch or dinner table at Beach Club Restaurant is best booked in advance – and it’s easy to see why. Looking out over the hotel’s palm-fringed infinity pool, the restaurant spotlights elegant contemporary Australian cuisine with a stellar (also Aussie-leaning) wine list to match.

    I am completely enamoured by the grilled Queensland prawns, which are brought to life with a smoked compound, local fried curry leaves and lime. Digging into the butter-soft lamb rump served atop pea ragout and parsley Paris mash feels like a warm, nostalgic hug. And dessert – vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with hot salted honey and apple gel – ends the night on a high note.

    Expect warm and discreet service; our waiter Marco tells us that the tiny decorative starfish on our table are there to help the staff remember whether we prefer sparkling or still water, so they don’t need to bother us by asking multiple times.

    Talk & Taste with Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher

    hamilton island Talk & Taste with Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher
    Join this immersive wine experience. (Credit Eleanor Edström)

    There’s more to Hamilton Island’s foodie scene than restaurant reservations alone. For wine-curious travellers seeking something a little more immersive, Beach Club has recently introduced Talk & Taste – a tutored tasting hosted by Bommie Assistant Manager and wine enthusiast Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher. Held twice weekly for a maximum of eight guests, the experience explores Australian wine culture through four thoughtfully selected drops paired with native-inspired bites.

    We opt for the white wine and seafood option. Alongside pours from Eden Valley and Launceston, a nibbling platter arrives featuring sashimi, salmon roe, Mooloolaba prawn ceviche and palate-cleansing ginger. The seafood is pristine and pared back, allowing the wines to take centre stage.

    The real highlight, however, is discovering just how nuanced winemaking can be. Courtenay speaks of viticulture as both art and science: harvest grapes a week too late and ripeness tips into ruin; plant the same varietal on different elevations and the sun, slope and water flow will shape entirely different expressions. Pinot noir, she explains, with its delicate skin and high water content, yields lighter fruit-forward wines, while thicker-skinned shiraz delivers depth and structure. I leave feeling fascinated and inspired by Courtenay’s evident passion.

    coca chu

    table spread at CocaChu
    Get a taste of Southeast Asian flavours. (Credit: Nikki To)

    Sweet and hot. Sour and salty. Dining at ever-popular coca chu is a sensation-swirling experience that’s not to be missed if you’re a sucker for punchy Southeast Asian flavours. Located at the Main Pool end of Catseye Beach, this lively hangout is all swaying lanterns, driftwood, high beamed ceilings and giant open windows that let in the balmy ocean breeze.

    Drawing from hawker traditions, the grilled betel leaf is a neat, vibrant mouthful of chilli fried cashews and spiced beef. The tofu surprises – soft beneath a tumble of dill, mint and coriander, and glossed in moreish peanut sauce. The massaman curry is pure comfort: creamy, fragrant, fall-apart meat. It’s generous and expressive cooking that I, for one, cannot get enough of.

    Marina Cafe

    hamilton island MArina Cafe
    Take in harbour views and comfort food.

    Sometimes, all you crave on holidays is a bacon and egg roll done properly and a creamy fruit smoothie. Boasting harbour views, an easygoing atmosphere and clean modern interiors, Marina Cafe is a popular local haunt for a reason. The casual menu lures families and couples alike with its all-day brekky, seasonal salads and sandwiches – from a roasted pumpkin bowl to prosciutto and rocket on herby focaccia.

    The acai bowl, topped with toasted nuts and berries, is a refreshing start to my day. Whether you sit in or takeaway, it’s a good-vibes-guaranteed place to refuel before or after your Whitsundays adventures.

    Discover your foodie getaway now at hamiltonisland.com.au.

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