Meet the South Coast’s darlings: Milly and Molly

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With a thriving food scene and a strong sense of community, there’s no denying the charm of New South Wales coastal darlings Milton and Mollymook.

Milly and Molly have always been joined at the hip. As the older of the two, Milly has assumed the responsibility that comes with growing up in country New South Wales. Molly, on the other hand, has matured at a slower pace, in the shadow of her big sister. But Molly has finally come of age – and Milly is reaping the benefits of the change in dynamics.

 

The morning sunshine is soft and warm on the outskirts of Milly. On a cottage verandah, hens spread their wings and settle down for a nap. A border collie nods off at the foot of a staircase leading to a stylish loft apartment. Bees buzz between strawberry flowers and dairy cows chew grass in a paddock over the back fence. It’s a peaceful introduction to the Shoalhaven towns of Milton and Mollymook on New South Wales’ South Coast.

 

There’s no denying, Milly and Molly go hand in hand; a trip to one isn’t complete without a visit to the other. Yet, the siblings are yin and yang. Shaped in the late 1800s by a thriving timber industry, Milton was the commercial centre of the region (before Ulladulla, to the south, overtook it). Mollymook, however, has always been a sleepy seaside hamlet attracting surfers and families.

 

Today, as the Princes Highway approaches Milton, a mere five minutes’ drive from the coast, traffic slows to a crawl. Pedestrians amble from boutique to gallery to cafe. Life is idyllic, but don’t be fooled – there’s vitality among the rolling farmland, and it’s largely thanks to a flourishing hospitality scene.

The ‘Rick Stein effect’

‘Rick Stein put Mollymook on the map’ is a phrase I hear more than once during my weekend stay. The English celebrity chef is influencing the South Coast’s culinary landscape, seven years after opening his self-titled restaurant at luxury hotel Bannisters by the Sea. At least three of the Shoalhaven’s top restaurants and cafes have former Bannisters chefs in the kitchen. They include Matt Upson, co-owner and head chef at Tallwood, a hip tapas bar in Mollymook; Adam Kann, the new head chef at Native, a trendy cafe in Ulladulla (try the turmeric latte); and Alex Delly, co-owner and head chef at the one-hatted St Isidore (order the cooked-to-perfection Scotch fillet).

 

The ‘Rick Stein effect’ has tourists scrambling to meet Molly, thrusting Milly into a renaissance that’s taking its cues from the kind of crowd rushing to Byron Bay’s sophisti-rustic ‘The Farm’. Newcomers are moving in, drawn to a healthy, relaxed lifestyle.

 

One of these is Jenny Paul from The Old Schoolhouse, a few minutes from Milton’s hubbub. Having moved from Sydney, Jenny started the boutique, self-contained accommodation in 2014. From its original disrepair, Jenny has breathed life back into the one-hectare property and, in the process, been welcomed by Milly and Molly with open arms. A passionate horticulturist, she says Milton is a sharing community with a strong organic and seasonal food scene. Produce and free-range eggs from her thriving garden are frequently exchanged for a morning coffee at Milk Haus, a cafe down the road in Woodstock.

 

Details: Milton and Mollywook

Getting there

– Milton and Mollymook are in the Shoalhaven region of New South Wales.

Milton is the main town, about 200 kilometres east of Canberra.


Staying there

The Old Schoolhouse Set on a beautiful property just out of town, you’ll feel just like a local when you stay in the self-contained loft or cottages.

Perfect for couples; be sure to try the raw honey and free-range eggs.423 Croobyar Road, Milton.


Eating there

Flour Water Salt : From the folks at The Farm at Byron, this is a must on the itinerary.

You’ll want to return time and again to sample all of the organic, fine fare. 87 Princes Highway, Milton.

Milk Haus : For healthy food that’s preservative- and toxin-free, head to Milk Haus, in a charming old cheese factory.

The space is airy and casual, the food fresh and delicious. 170 Woodstock Road, Woodstock.


Playing there

Mollymook Beach Surf School : Go it alone or book a group lesson, and learn how to surf in the gentle beginner waves around the Shoalhaven.

Boards and wetsuits are provided.

 

 

Discover more about NSW South Coast:

– Wollongong’s Coal Coast – boutique beach bliss

– Review: Bannisters Pavilion, Mollymook

– Collette Dinnigan’s Milton weekend hit-list

Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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8 Thredbo hiking experiences you can only have in summer

Thredbo in summer is a nature lover’s dream of show-stopping alpine beauty, cool mountain air and magical moonlit adventure.

For many of us, Thredbo calls to mind shimmering slopes and snow-dusted gums, but come summer, this Alpine resort transforms into a playground of an entirely different kind. A cool mountain retreat despite the season, Thredbo summer hikes are astonishingly beautiful, criss-crossing over dramatic peaks, pristine glacial lakes and abundant flora and fauna.

From approachable tracks for novice walkers to more challenging hikes across the Main Range and even journeys under moonlight, Thredbo puts on an unforgettable show of natural splendour all summer. Lace up your walking boots and take the chairlift from Thredbo village to embark on a self-guided exploration or a tour of the Snowy Mountains’ most compelling landscapes.

These eight unforgettable hiking experiences are only available in summer and offer an alpine adventure like you’ve never experienced before.

1. Full Moon Hike to Mt Kosciuszko

Full Moon Hike to Mt Kosciuszko
Stand atop Mt Kosciuszko at full moon.

There’s something almost mystical about hiking by the light of a full moon. This guided experience begins with a 15-minute chairlift ride, where you’ll admire the Thredbo Valley below, bathed in the fading sun.

Once at the top, you’ll pass rivers, alpine lakes and spot nocturnal wildlife on your way to the Kosciuszko Lookout and Lake Cootapatamba. By the time you reach the summit, sunset is well underway as you watch day give way to night and the alpine landscape magically illuminated by the lunar glow. Enjoy a hot chocolate here before following the path back to Eagles Nest, brightened by the night sky.

This 13-kilometre hike will take place on 3 January, 2 February, and 2 April in 2026.

2. Super Full Moon Hike

Super Full Moon Hike in thredbo
Take in the might of a super full moon.

The only thing that could level up the celestial beauty of a full moon hike would be a super full moon hike . Following the same route, you’ll meet the moon when it is largest and closest to Earth by ascending to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko at an elevation of 2228 metres. From such a height, it almost feels as though you could reach out and touch its glowing surface.

Given the rarity and splendour of the super full moon, limited spots fill up fast for this awe-inspiring hike, so be sure to book the 5 December in advance.

3. Lunar Eclipse Hike

Thredbo Lunar Eclipse Hike
See dazzling celestial displays.

What could be more extraordinary than witnessing a lunar eclipse from Australia’s highest peak? Whether you’re a keen astronomer or simply revel in nature’s beauty, this guided 13-kilometre hike will place you on top of Mount Kosciuszko just as Earth passes between the sun and moon, throwing shade over the lunar surface before transforming it with a deep-red hue.

It’s an epic place to witness one of our galaxy’s most spectacular and rare light shows. Apart from the dazzling celestial display, you’ll also enjoy walking through the moon-bathed landscape, an evening chairlift ride, and a hot chocolate at the summit.

Book now for 3 March.

4. New Moon Hike

New Moon Hike Mt Kosciuszko
Catch the changing skies of a new moon.

A stargazer’s delight, the darkness of a new moon gives the Milky Way full permission to dazzle with its shimmering display. Both astronomers and photographers will relish this opportunity to observe and capture the starry skyscape from the lofty height of Australia’s highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko. Departing Thredbo Village at dusk and leaving its twinkling lights far below, you’ll arrive at the summit in time to see the sun slip away and the stars appear.

Catch this hike during the new moon lunar phase on 20 December, 19 January, 17 February, 19 March or 17 April.

5. Thredbo River Track

Thredbo River Track
Take yourself along the Thredbo River Track.

Embark on a gentle entry into the Snowy Mountain scenery with an amble along the Thredbo River. This self-guided hike hugs the river and wanders along the valley floor, revealing snow gum forests, swimming holes and little waterfalls that make for revitalising cold plunges in the summer heat.

6. Merritts Nature Track

Merritts Nature Track thredbo summer hikes
Stop at swimming holes along the way.

On warm summer days, venturing into the cooler air of Thredbo’s alpine tracks offers relief from the heat. Particularly if you set course for the four-kilometre Merritts Nature Track , where there are opportunities to take a refreshing dip in swimming holes along the way.

The two-to-three-hour self-guided hike meanders through towering ancient trees (dubbed the ‘Pixie Forest’ by locals), takes in stunning mountain vistas and is soundtracked by the melody of birdsong. Stop for a picnic and discover a hidden natural infinity pool, the location of which is given away by the roar of a cascading waterfall.

7. Mt Kosciuszko Summit Tour

Follow a guide along Mt Kosciuszko's summit.
Follow a guide along Mt Kosciuszko’s summit.

While you can easily steer yourself to Australia’s most iconic peak without a guide, following an expert guide to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko will colour your experience with a deeper knowledge of the landscape and its wild inhabitants. The 13-kilometre return trail puts the alpine scenery on display with 360-degree views from the highest spot in the country.

The walk begins at the top of the Kosciuszko Chairlift and takes around four to six hours to complete, but is gentle enough to be embarked upon by all ages.

8. Snowies Alpine Walk Experience

Snowies Alpine Walk Experience
Join a two- or three-day experience along Snowies Alpine Walk.

If you’re looking to truly untether from daily life and embark on a real immersion in Thredbo’s stunning alpine scenery, pack your hiking boots for the newest multi-day walk in the mountains. The Snowies Alpine Walk can be tackled over two or three days and includes nightly accommodation in the iconic Thredbo Alpine Hotel, daily buffet breakfast, packed lunch and dinner vouchers, plus daily transfers to and from trail heads in a brand-new Defender.

The two-day experience covers 24 kilometres, while the three-day experience almost doubles that at 44 kilometres. Along the way, explore barely trod landscapes, vast high-country plains and uplifting mountain horizons.

Discover the full offering of summer hikes in Thredbo at thredbo.com.au.