Neighbourhood guide: Elwood

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With so much life and energy around the Australian Open in summer, escape the heat and head down south to Elwood, where quaint suburban pockets, heritage homes, vibrant cafes, and wine bars await.

It’s just eight kilometres from Melbourne’s CBD, yet Elwood feels like a town unto itself. Walk east along the canal from Ormond Esplanade on a late summer afternoon and you’ll notice it feels rather like an island: a small beach suburb in the south of Melbourne that is – by way of culture, community spirit, and public transport – a sea apart from the rest of city.

Like most islands, Elwood has developed its own calm, sophisticated way of life. The people are kind and young, and always outdoors. When you’re out walking the wide avenues, marked with big old plane trees and historic Art Deco homes, you’ll catch smiles from mums with prams, and restaurant owners standing out in the street talking to patrons.

By day, locals and visitors gather at Elwood Beach where the breeze rolls off Port Phillip Bay and cools the neighbouring streets. By night, the town transforms as Ormond Road establishments open out onto the footpath for some of the best alfresco dining south of the city. In decades past, Elwood has seen many different lives. As evolution would have it, Elwood’s famed cabaret scene of the 1970s and early 1980s dwindled in the latter part of the century, as its quiet neighbourhood streets and proximity to the city started to attract affluent young families. Alas, today you’ll have to venture into neighbouring St Kilda for late-night action.

Yet even without the raw edge, Elwood is a place of history and beauty, dominated by heritage-listed homes and buildings that remain unchanged from the early and middle stages of last century, which make it a quaint and beautiful place to live and visit. If you need to escape the notorious heat during January’s Australian Open, take the short ride to Elwood Beach and spend the day taking in the village.

Wake up with A Girl Called Jayne

Elwood springs to life every morning at Elwood Junction, the intersection of Broadway, Ormond, and Glen Huntley roads. It’s a vibrant street scene, as cyclists and beachgoers descend on local cafes for morning coffee. A Girl Called Jayne recently opened at the iconic junction in the space previously occupied by Turtle Cafe; a perfect vantage point for people-watching. The cafe is run by head chef Yannick Beaucaine, whose distinguished career spans kitchens in Europe and Australia. He studied molecular gastronomy in Paris before working at two Michelin-starred restaurants, Paris Le Jules Verne and Chateau des Avenieres. While ‘Jayne’ is a little more laid back than Le Jules Verne – which is located in the Eiffel Tower – the simple menu still impresses with a selection of contemporary bistronomy-style dishes from around the world.

Get in touch with nature along the canal

One of the most charming things about Elwood is its low-lying streets, which, as you head inland, filter downwards, running all the way along the canal into Elsternwick. In the early part of last century, Elwood was an inland swamp, but when the area began to gentrify in the 1980s the local council revitalised the low-lying areas with the Elwood Canal. It’s a grand and ubiquitous feature, planted with an array of beautiful native vegetation. Take a walk along the canal, day or night, and you’ll also get an unbridled view of some of the suburb’s most luxurious and historic homes.

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Go raw at Combi Coffee

Healthy eating and all-day exercise gear is at the heart of every Elwood stereotype, thanks in no small part to Combi Coffee. But in spite of the clichés, Combi has an authentic and inspired approach to healthy fare, with its vegan-friendly menu. Inspired by owner Penny Loughnan, who, among other things, has spent time in the USA learning about cold-pressed juices, staples include the house-made raw organic zucchini spaghetti, sweet sprouted bread with tahini and banana slices, choc mint cheesecake, and the almond latte. Almond milk is made onsite, while the coffee is roasted weekly offsite by Combi.

Watch the skydivers soar

At the weekend, watching skydivers land on the lawn at Elwood Beach is one of the colourful joys of summer. If you’re not prepared to take the plunge yourself, take a picnic rug and park yourself between Elwood and St Kilda beaches, just south of St Kilda Marina. On the hour, parades of parachuters land on the open space to the applause of the crowd.

If you’re looking to try something new, take the plunge yourself with Melbourne Skydive. They’re out over Port Philip Bay between Friday and Monday. It’s a drive out to the takeoff point, but you’ll be safely back in Elwood for lunch.

Pick and choose at Elwood Beach

They might not quite reach the heights of Melbourne’s hatted eateries, but the Elwood Beach Huts – dotted colourfully along the foreshore, selling simple food, coffee and ice cream – are a wonderful place to set up for a shady afternoon overlooking the water. In summer, there’s a selection of beach huts, food vans and eateries along the foreshore, stretching from Point Ormond (you’re there when you see the white tower on the top of a hill) all the way down to the southern border at Brighton. If you’re in luck, you’ll stumble across Pinchy’s in the Point Ormond car park. The air stream caravan parks itself in Elwood for the summer and serves Maine-style lobster rolls, with pickles, crunchy chips, and ice-cream sandwiches.

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8 towns in Victoria’s Heartland that will delight your tastebuds

(Image: Visit Victoria)

    Jade Raykovski Jade Raykovski
    Get out of the city and close to nature in Victoria’s Heartland, one of Australia’s finest food-producing regions. 

    This fertile area is abundant in natural beauty, rich volcanic soils, mineral-rich waters, artisan producers and farm fresh produce. In towns spanning the Central Goldfields, Macedon Ranges and surrounds, just a short drive or easy train ride from Melbourne, you can taste a plethora of incredible food and world-class wine in these best of Victoria’s Heartland food regions. 

    1. Daylesford

    Lake House Restaurant, Daylesford
    Dine on the multi-course fare served at the elegant and light-filled Lake House Restaurant. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

    Warm and inviting, fans of Japanese cuisine should make a beeline for Kadota. Settle in for Japanese flavours, in cocktail glasses and on the plate, that have been carefully produced using seasonal local ingredients.

    For those who love a farm-to-table moment, Sault is the place to be. Fresh ingredients – directly from the restaurant’s kitchen gardens, or from regional organic farms and producers – are crafted into a delicious seasonal menu by Chef Hat-awarded Head Chef Jack Powlay.

    Boasting gorgeous water views from its location on the banks of Lake Daylesford, Boathouse Restaurant is perfect for an elevated dining experience.

    For a special treat, a visit to the two-chef-hatted restaurant at the Lake House is a must. Savour beautiful views and a seasonal menu championing small-scale local suppliers and their own farm just 10 minutes away. 

    2. Hepburn Springs

    If you're exploring Victoria food regions to visit, Surly Goat is one restaurant you won’t want to miss.
    Tuck into hearty, farm-fresh flavours. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Taking cues from its Swiss-Italian roots and the area’s produce, the picturesque Lavandula Farm houses a seasonal trattoria, rustic wine bar, and a new deli and larder inside the original Shepherd’s Flat Post Office. 

    For another dining destination immersed in the area’s history, visit The Hepburn Pavilion café at Hepburn Bathhouse. Brunch, lunch, scones and house-made cakes are served under the vaulted ceiling of this Edwardian heritage-listed building. 

    And while The Surly Goat may have a farm-like ring to it, it’s in fact a homely restaurant that takes seasonality seriously. Chef David Willcocks heads up an ever-changing set menu celebrating local and small-scale regenerative producers. 

    3. Trentham

    Add Sisko Chocolate to your list of Victoria food regions to visit for a sweet stop along the way.
    Satisfy your sweet cravings with handcrafted treats. (Image: Sisko Chocolate)

    No trip to an Aussie regional town is complete without a stop at the pub. Pig & Whistle Hotel sits surrounded by farmland. Soak it in from the locally beloved beer garden. Here, pub classics include a parmigiana with an Irish twist.  

    For a more refined experienced, dine at du Fermier, where chef and owner Annie Smithers crafts a weekly menu of French farmhouse-style dishes, often sourcing ingredients from her nearby farm in Lyonville. 

    And if you have a sweet tooth, don’t leave town without a cheeky stop at Sisko Chocolate Studio, where owner Christina Tantsis has built a chocolate-lovers wonderland inside a stunning architectural space. Her handcrafted creations use couverture from Valrhona, a certified B Corporation, and the hot chocolates are positively sinful. 

    4. Woodend

    Kuzu Izakaya in woodend, daylesford
    Taste incredible Japanese cuisine at Kuzu Izakaya.

    Taste local drops in town at the family-owned Woodend Cellar and Bar – complemented by tapas and artisan platters featuring sourdough from the local bakery – or at 600 Above, a wine bar with a sunny courtyard and cosy fireplace serving small and large plates.  

    Nearby, Kuzu Izakaya is the go-to place for Japanese dining. Chef Eriko Pannam has crafted a moreish menu of creative and traditional dishes; think miso cream scallops and everyone’s favourite, Japanese fried chicken. 

    Mount Macedon Winery is another must-visit for wine connoisseurs. Enjoy a glass and wood-fired pizza on the deck, or opt for fine dining at their Cellar Door Restaurant.

    5. Kyneton

    Piper Street in Kyneton is overflowing with top-notch eateries. Take Prato, specialising in traditional Greek dishes and pinsa (a lighter, crispier version of traditional pizza); or the upscale Midnight Starling, where chef Steve Rogers serves French classics inside a historic building with bluestone cellar. 

    A little further down, The Piper Street Wine Company is a European restaurant and wine bar inside a gorgeous heritage building. Their evolving menu highlights one European country or region at a time, so there’s always something new to discover. Further along, Fook Shing delivers a flavour-packed Southeast Asian menu using local and regional Victorian produce.

    6. Castlemaine

    Blue cheese from Long Paddock Cheese.
    Discover rich, creamy cheeses crafted by a certified cow’s milk artisan cheesemaker. (Image: Long Paddock Cheese)

    Cafes, bars and restaurants have taken up residence inside this former Gold Rush town’s historic buildings. At The Mill Castlemaine – an 1870s woollen mill turned creative hub – you’ll find Long Paddock Cheese, a small-scale artisan cheesemaker that uses certified-organic cow’s milk from a nearby family-owned farm; and Das Kaffeehaus, a Viennese cafe serving traditional Austrian food with coffee from their small batch roastery. 

    Meanwhile, inside the Midland Hotel you’ll find the chef-hatted Bar Midland, founded by locals Loudon Cooper and Alexander Marano. Their monthly set menu celebrates Victorian producers who focus on sustainable land management, and often utilises indigenous food, introduced wild animals and weeds.

    7. Lancefield & Romsey

    A flatlay of food from Lost Watering Hole.
    Savour beautifully plated dishes in a relaxed setting. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Art meets food and wine at Mount Monument, located just outside of Romsey. The beautiful vineyard is home to a sculpture park, cellar door and restaurant with a menu shaped by the Macedon Ranges’ rich seasonal produce.  

    In town, The 1860 Romsey has reimagined a 160-year-old hotel. Here, country pub charm meets modern bistro, with a menu that supports local at every opportunity (their Central Victorian Oakdale Black Angus steak is a winner).  

    A few minutes’ drive north, the Lost Watering Hole in Lancefield is a family-friendly brewery and restaurant crafting 100% naturally brewed beers. Their unusual names – No Dodo, Flightless, Big Roo – make sense once you learn Lancefield is the location of one of the richest deposits of megafauna fossils in Australia.

    8. Harcourt

    Lovely pastries from Hartcourt Produce & General Store.
    Treat yourself to buttery, house-made Danish pastries. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Harcourt is famous for its apple orchards and cider production, and there’s no better place to visit than The Little Red Apple. At this roadside store, you can stock up on fresh crisp apples, ciders, vinegars, juices, and other gourmet products. 

    To taste more local delights, pop into the Harcourt Produce & General Store, renowned for their house-made danishes, or stop at Sutton Grange Winery where winemaker Chris Smales crafts wines using their organically grown estate fruit. Open on Sundays, it’s an idyllic spot to slow down over wine, pizzas and share plates. 

    Start planning your next outdoor adventure at victoriasheartland.com.au.

    A Neighbourhood Guide To Elwood, Melbourne