Neighbourhood guide: Elwood

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With so much life and energy around the Australian Open in summer, escape the heat and head down south to Elwood, where quaint suburban pockets, heritage homes, vibrant cafes, and wine bars await.

It’s just eight kilometres from Melbourne’s CBD, yet Elwood feels like a town unto itself. Walk east along the canal from Ormond Esplanade on a late summer afternoon and you’ll notice it feels rather like an island: a small beach suburb in the south of Melbourne that is – by way of culture, community spirit, and public transport – a sea apart from the rest of city.

Like most islands, Elwood has developed its own calm, sophisticated way of life. The people are kind and young, and always outdoors. When you’re out walking the wide avenues, marked with big old plane trees and historic Art Deco homes, you’ll catch smiles from mums with prams, and restaurant owners standing out in the street talking to patrons.

By day, locals and visitors gather at Elwood Beach where the breeze rolls off Port Phillip Bay and cools the neighbouring streets. By night, the town transforms as Ormond Road establishments open out onto the footpath for some of the best alfresco dining south of the city. In decades past, Elwood has seen many different lives. As evolution would have it, Elwood’s famed cabaret scene of the 1970s and early 1980s dwindled in the latter part of the century, as its quiet neighbourhood streets and proximity to the city started to attract affluent young families. Alas, today you’ll have to venture into neighbouring St Kilda for late-night action.

Yet even without the raw edge, Elwood is a place of history and beauty, dominated by heritage-listed homes and buildings that remain unchanged from the early and middle stages of last century, which make it a quaint and beautiful place to live and visit. If you need to escape the notorious heat during January’s Australian Open, take the short ride to Elwood Beach and spend the day taking in the village.

Wake up with A Girl Called Jayne

Elwood springs to life every morning at Elwood Junction, the intersection of Broadway, Ormond, and Glen Huntley roads. It’s a vibrant street scene, as cyclists and beachgoers descend on local cafes for morning coffee. A Girl Called Jayne recently opened at the iconic junction in the space previously occupied by Turtle Cafe; a perfect vantage point for people-watching. The cafe is run by head chef Yannick Beaucaine, whose distinguished career spans kitchens in Europe and Australia. He studied molecular gastronomy in Paris before working at two Michelin-starred restaurants, Paris Le Jules Verne and Chateau des Avenieres. While ‘Jayne’ is a little more laid back than Le Jules Verne – which is located in the Eiffel Tower – the simple menu still impresses with a selection of contemporary bistronomy-style dishes from around the world.

Get in touch with nature along the canal

One of the most charming things about Elwood is its low-lying streets, which, as you head inland, filter downwards, running all the way along the canal into Elsternwick. In the early part of last century, Elwood was an inland swamp, but when the area began to gentrify in the 1980s the local council revitalised the low-lying areas with the Elwood Canal. It’s a grand and ubiquitous feature, planted with an array of beautiful native vegetation. Take a walk along the canal, day or night, and you’ll also get an unbridled view of some of the suburb’s most luxurious and historic homes.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Go raw at Combi Coffee

Healthy eating and all-day exercise gear is at the heart of every Elwood stereotype, thanks in no small part to Combi Coffee. But in spite of the clichés, Combi has an authentic and inspired approach to healthy fare, with its vegan-friendly menu. Inspired by owner Penny Loughnan, who, among other things, has spent time in the USA learning about cold-pressed juices, staples include the house-made raw organic zucchini spaghetti, sweet sprouted bread with tahini and banana slices, choc mint cheesecake, and the almond latte. Almond milk is made onsite, while the coffee is roasted weekly offsite by Combi.

Watch the skydivers soar

At the weekend, watching skydivers land on the lawn at Elwood Beach is one of the colourful joys of summer. If you’re not prepared to take the plunge yourself, take a picnic rug and park yourself between Elwood and St Kilda beaches, just south of St Kilda Marina. On the hour, parades of parachuters land on the open space to the applause of the crowd.

If you’re looking to try something new, take the plunge yourself with Melbourne Skydive. They’re out over Port Philip Bay between Friday and Monday. It’s a drive out to the takeoff point, but you’ll be safely back in Elwood for lunch.

Pick and choose at Elwood Beach

They might not quite reach the heights of Melbourne’s hatted eateries, but the Elwood Beach Huts – dotted colourfully along the foreshore, selling simple food, coffee and ice cream – are a wonderful place to set up for a shady afternoon overlooking the water. In summer, there’s a selection of beach huts, food vans and eateries along the foreshore, stretching from Point Ormond (you’re there when you see the white tower on the top of a hill) all the way down to the southern border at Brighton. If you’re in luck, you’ll stumble across Pinchy’s in the Point Ormond car park. The air stream caravan parks itself in Elwood for the summer and serves Maine-style lobster rolls, with pickles, crunchy chips, and ice-cream sandwiches.

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Victoria’s most memorable guided tours to book now

    Lara Picone Lara Picone
    Get around the natural beauty and bounty of regional Victoria on a guided tour that reveals extraordinary moments from coast to country.

    Walk the Great Ocean Road

    forest walk along the Great Ocean Road
    Swap your car for walking shoes on the Great Ocean Road.

    The Australian Walking Co’s immersive three-day, lodge-based walk is absolute bucket-list fodder. The easy-going, guided coastal hike is marked by epic scenery and end-of-day luxury. You’ll have no need for heavy packs or tents, instead expect fresh-caught crayfish, post-walk canapés and local wines. Each day explores the drama of this ocean-facing landscape with an approachable three-hour-ish walk, leaving plenty of time to unwind at the lodge.

    Swim with seals and dolphins at Port Phillip Heads

    dolphins swimming in Port Phillip Head Marine Park
    Swim with dolphins in Port Phillip Head Marine Park.

    Dive into Popes Eye, within Port Phillip Heads Marine National Park, for this wild swimming experience with mankind’s BFFs of the sea. On the See All Dolphin Swims 3.5-hour experience, departing from Queenscliff, you’ll begin in shallow, calm waters before venturing off to Chinaman’s Hat and beyond to meet seals and dolphins in their own habitat. All gear is provided and all ages are welcome.

    Get your ghost on in the Grampians

    For those with a penchant for the paranormal, get ready for goosebumps when you embark on the Lantern Tours J Ward Paranormal Investigation excursion that takes place under the moonlight in the west wing of Aradale Lunatic Asylum. As you keep a lookout for supernatural activity, you’ll enjoy tales of the criminally insane inmates that will make the hairs on your neck stand to attention.

    Paddle along the mighty Murray

    a woman on a stand-up paddle board along the Murray
    Glide along the scenic Murray on a stand-up paddleboard.

    Swoosh softly through the silky waters of the mighty Murray on a stand-up paddle board with Echuca Moama Stand Up Paddle. This gentle downstream sojourn meanders for one-and-a-half hours covering 4.5 kilometres of the river, taking in the beauty on the banks and the vibrant birdlife.

    From Echuca Moama slip under the Moama Bridge and glide beside its iconic paddlesteamers and the historic port.

    Sip and cycle in the Yarra Valley

    cyclists exploring Yarra Valley
    Cycle around Yarra Valley wine country.

    Wine and wheels make a great pairing on the Tour De Vines six-hour Yarra Valley tour that weaves through vine-threaded roads. It’s a relaxed pace along 20 kilometres of the Warburton Rail Trail as you spot native birds and stop in at local vineyards and produce stores. You’ll pull in at a local winery for a tasting and enjoy lunch before hitting up a couple of cellar doors. Depending on your pedal power, there may be time to sneak in a visit to a chocolate or cheese factory.

    Dig for gold in Bendigo

    Think you have what it takes to unearth a gilded treasure? Try your hand at prospecting and learn the art of gold-digging (in the geological sense) on the two-hour Gold Nugget Hunter tour in the Loddon Valley. On the tour, mine the wisdom of locals Shane and Jackie – who have honed their hobby of gold-detecting into an art – to learn how to read the land and use a gold detector. You may even go home with a nugget of your own.

    Cruise around Wilsons Promontory

    the Skull Rock in Wilsons Prom
    Cruise around Skull Rock in Wilsons Prom. (Image: Connor Vaughan)

    It’s a thrill to drive directly from the sand into the waves aboard the Wanderer Adventures’ bright-yellow amphibious boat. On this 2.5-hour tour, you’ll skip along the water to take in Wilsons Prom’s top highlights, such as the imposing Skull Rock, The Glennies, Anderson Islets and Anser Island. Spot seals, penguins and seabirds as you absorb the tranquillity of this stunning environment.

    Walk with llamas in the Macedon Ranges

    a llama in the Macedon Ranges
    Make friends with a llama in the Macedon Ranges.

    If you’ve always felt an affinity for long-lashed camelids, then bonding with a llama on a leisurely walk might just be the thing for you. Opt for either a three-hour, five-kilometre hike or a longer 12-kilometre trek along the Domino Rail Trail paired with a gentle, hooved friend. Things kick off with a llama orientation, where you’ll learn how to lead and look out for your new mate before you hit the track. It’s a lovely way to explore the beauty of the region with a sensitive and curious companion by your side.

    Go underground in the Grampians

    a subterranean tour of Seppelt Wines
    Take a subterranean tour of Seppelt Wines. (Image: Ben Savage/We Are Explorers)

    Oenophiles and cave-lovers alike will enjoy going underground at Seppelt’s ‘Drives’. The largest underground cellar in Australia, The Drives were dug by local goldminers in 1868 and meander for three-kilometres – keeping wine treasures at a temperate 16-degrees year-round. A 50-minute tour through the heritage-listed granite tunnels happily conclude with a tasting of the label’s celebrated sparkling wines.

    Discover island life in the Mornington Peninsula

    a guided tour of French Island
    Discover the Mornington Peninsula’s flora and fauna on a guided tour of French Island.

    Eject from the mainland on a catamaran bound for the wildlife haven of French Island with Naturaliste Tours. Once you disembark from the boat, you’ll hop into a 4WD to explore the pristine flora and fauna, from salt marshes to vast Fairhaven Beach.

    Look out for echidnas and koalas and enjoy short walks and historic sites on this half-day tour.

    seals in Wilsons Prom
    The southernmost tip is a haven for wildlife. (Image: CMcConville)