Have you heard of Tasmania’s Heartlands? It’s time you did

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The joy of an escape to Tasmania’s newly crowned Heartlands is that you can do – and eat – as much or as little as you please.

Rabbits scatter-bolt throughout the misty garden when I close Wandering Trout’s side-entrance door behind me. A few steps and I’m on Mole Creek’s main drag where streetlights are still on even though it’s light enough to see without them. There’s nobody else around except a lone truck driver passing by with a load of felled trees that may have started life well before the name Tasmania was ever spoken here.

 

I arrived late yesterday afternoon from Launceston, rejecting the highway for a more inefficient scenic route between blackberry-lined paddocks of red soil while the sinking sun made silhouettes of the surrounding outcrops of kooparoona niara/Great Western Tiers. This northern part of Tasmania’s Central Highlands has recently been rebranded the Heartlands, with signs and everything. Yet, no matter how you reframe it, this is and always will be palawa Country.

Meander River in Deloraine, Tasmania
Soak up the views of the idyllic Meander River in Deloraine, Tasmania.

Day one: Deloraine & Mole Creek

On this misty morning, with three full days here ahead of me, I’m on my way to the main service town of Deloraine to get better acquainted. Yet, only a few minutes out of Mole Creek, a sign catches my eye. At Alum Cliffs trail car park, I open my door to a glorious chorus of kookaburra, magpie, rooster, crow and cow.

Explore Deloraine’s nearby nature experiences

This 40-minute return walk initially seems quite tame. The English-style agriculture and colonial architecture in these parts always lulls me into thinking it’s a relatively moderate landscape. Yet, an extensive karst system, ancient sandstone and Jurassic dolerite intrusions make for some serious geological drama beyond the farmed lands.

 

You can take limestone cave tours at King Solomons and Marakoopa to see glow worms, caverns and subterranean streams. Or Devils Gullet is a free alpine walk to a sheer dolerite cliff that looks out at Cradle Mountain (though its road access is currently closed).

Inside the limestone caves of Marakoopa
Inside the limestone caves of Marakoopa. (Image: Tourism Australia/ Graham Freeman)

I soon realise, reading the interpretive signage, I’m on my way to a place that’s extremely significant to many Aboriginal nations and ancestral groups, especially the Pallittorre, whose traditional homelands I’m on. Within half an hour I’m standing entranced at the edge of a deep river gorge where the water far below is flowing so energetically I can hear it. Then sunlight hits the mountains for the first time today and lights up the sacred place of tulampanga, meaning red ochre hill.

 

There’s a poem on a plaque written by palawa Elder Phyllis Pitchford called ‘our history our reality’ about kooparoona niara (pronounced KOOP-aroon-NYAH-rah). I stay for ages listening to a honeyeater call, watching birds flit and wondering where the peregrine falcons are nested. On the walk back, I sample tiny ripe fruits from a native cherry tree.

Shopping, craft fairs and car shows

At mid-morning I’m perched on a stool in Brush Rabbit talking about mountain biking over a double espresso and a croissant. At Great Western Tiers Visitor Centre, I learn about the town’s sculptures and its dedication to preserving colonial structures such as its flour mill, band rotunda and Australia’s oldest continuously used racecourse. The working craft fair held here in early November increases Deloraine’s population ten-fold.

St Mark's Anglican Church in Deloraine
Explore the many charms of the tiny town of Deloraine.

Last February I came through during Deloraine Street Car Show when the exit-ramp-shaped main street transforms into an open-air showroom. At the time, I took a break from the vintage V8s to buy a soft brown beanie for a baby from the Alpaca Shoppe. Its owner has since moved the business ‘out to the farm’ on Quamby Brook Road where you can feed her woolly beasts.

 

This year is the quarter-century anniversary of Yarns Artwork in Silk, displayed at the visitor centre accompanied by an informative 10-minute commentary. Meander Valley’s seasons are represented across four panels that depict Deloraine’s streetscape and the area’s colonial history, agriculture and the natural environment. It was contributed to by the creative minds and talented hands of over 300 community members. Hopefully a fifth panel will one day be added acknowledging First Nations peoples.

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Fine food and waterfalls

Peckish, I find my way to a great steak and Guinness pie at Mumma Buzz and, across the Meander River, house-made gelato. Dixie Blue uses Ashgrove dairy products and its lemon meringue ice-cream has actual meringue chunks on top. Some say Cruizin’ in the 50’s Diner has put Deloraine on the map but unfortunately I’m at digestive capacity for now.

 

On Barrack Street, I’m drawn into a nameless secondhand shop where everything including the kitchen sink is thoughtfully displayed and reasonably priced. After a thorough peruse and some good conversation, I leave with a pile of yellow Johnson of Australia bowls and plenty of change from a twenty.

 

If it was the weekend (and not Friday), about now I’d be beelining for 3 Willows Vineyard to sample its wines and eat Tasmanian cheese in the sun. Instead, I buy vanilla slice from Deloraine Town Cafe bakery and drive the A5 up onto the plateau where a wheelchair accessible boardwalk winds between stands of gnarly old pencil pines to the edge of Pine Lake.

 

Back in the valley, with only a couple more hours of daylight left, I follow the advice of the junk shop owner and another customer to walk to Westmorland Falls near Caveside. Rainforest mosses and epiphytes grow on just about every surface and tree ferns close to the falls are a massive eight or nine metres tall.

 

It’s dusk when I drive slowly back to Mole Creek to avoid injuring or killing any animals, especially threatened species like devil and quoll but also wallaby and possum. There’s a cheerful crowd inside Wandering Trout where I find a corner and get lost in a tray of really good chicken tacos.

Deloraine to the town of Meander.
Drive the winding S-bends from Deloraine to the town of Meander.

Day two & three: Meander

The next morning I drive to Meander where, after the S-bends, I’m greeted by every vehicle I pass. “Everyone waves whether you’re from here, not from here, whatever," I’m told at the friendly Meander Bridge Cafe where I have coffee and buy food for today’s 10-kilometre walk. I’m staying at Cedar Cottage for the next two nights but it’s too early to check in so I head to the reserve.

Cedar Cottage Meander scenery
Find green fields as far as the eye can see in and around Meander. (Image: Teamthink.co/Cedar Cottage)
Cedar Cottage hot tub
Cedar Cottage in Meander offers self-contained accommodation with a hot tub and views of kooparoona niara. (Image: Teamthink.co/Cedar Cottage)

Kooparoona niara means Mountains of Spirits. Meander Falls Track, within this range, is a gradual uphill hike with just one particularly steep section. The forest track follows the river – the same waterway that runs through Deloraine – so there’s a constant reward of waterfall displays, swimming holes and views down into canyons before reaching boulder fields and the final falls.

(Image: Teamthink.co/Cedar Cottage)

While lunching in pencil pine shade, with beautiful black rock towering above me, I have the most wonderful realisation: I don’t have to go anywhere tomorrow.

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Deloraine is roughly a 40-minute drive west from Launceston and south from Devonport, and 2.5 hours’ drive north-west from Hobart. Meander is 15 minutes south of Deloraine.

Staying there

Glendalough in Deloraine is an Edwardian homestead and one of the few properties in the region providing equal access accommodation.

 

Wandering Trout in Mole Creek near Deloraine is a small-batch craft brewery with accommodation and a taphouse serving great food.

 

Cedar Cottage in Meander offers self-contained accommodation with a hot tub and views of kooparoona niara.

Cedar Cottage Tasmania
Find simple pleasures to enjoy in abundance at Cedar Cottage. (Image: Teamthink.co/Cedar Cottage)

Hiking there

Many walks in the area are within national parks so organise your Parks pass before your short break.

The view from Meander Falls Track
The view from Meander Falls Track. (Image: Elspeth Callender)

Conscious traveller

Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary in Mole Creek is a 28-hectare haven for animals and birds. The sanctuary rehabilitates injured and orphaned wildlife and has a breeding program. Trowunna has a catch and release ethos but also provides habitat for creatures that can’t be returned to the bush and has contributed enormously to Save the Devil. You can support Trowunna by visiting as well as sponsoring a spotted-tailed quoll, a pair of devils or an orphaned bare-nosed wombat called Rosalie.

Hiking tasmania wildlife
Meet the wildlife in Tasmania’s Heartlands.

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Elspeth Callender
Elspeth Callender (she/they) seriously considered being a fiction writer until she began travelling and realised nothing is more fascinating than real people’s true stories. Now based in lutruwita/Tasmania, which is palawa Country, Elspeth is as dedicated to writing about the island she considers home as she is to places beyond its shores.
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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

    Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

    Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

    1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

    Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park, just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

    Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

    2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

    Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole, open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

    Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
    Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

    The Tiwi Islands, a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

    Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

    A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
    Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

    4. Dine in Darwin

    Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets, Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets.

    Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

    A bowl of Laksa.
    Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

    5. Up close with Uluṟu

    The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

    There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

    A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

    6. Drive the Red Centre Way

    From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

    Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

    SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
    Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

    7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

    Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa. This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

    Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

    The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
    Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

    8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

    Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen.

    Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

    Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com