13 reasons Coober Pedy is delightfully strange

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Opal mining town enigma Coober Pedy is very special place. Very special. Here are 13 reasons why this is Australia’s most delightfully strange town.

1. Blowing up stuff is a proud tradition

Not too much gets blown up these days but back in the 1980s you could buy dynamite over the counter at the local supermarket. The locals would settle disputes by blowing things sky-high rather than with their fists or a trip to court. The said-same courthouse, a police car and a restaurant were all destroyed at one time or another (apparently with no related deaths).

2. No dynamite in the cinema, if you don’t mind

A legacy of that proudly pyrotechnic era is a message which still flashes up before the feature film at the local drive in: ‘Patrons: Explosives Are Not To Be Brought Into This Theatre – The Management’.

3. Surnames are banned

Well, not officially, but they’re not embraced nor encouraged. People go their whole lives out here just being called by their nickname, such as Pommy John or Chicken Man, without anyone ever finding out who they really are. Sometimes it’s best not to ask too many questions – if you get what I mean.

4. No one has a clue how many people live here

There are the two versions of Coober Pedy’s population: the official and the unofficial. The 2011 census stated that were 1695 residents living here. But even the local council laughs at that figure, claiming it to be nearer to “around 3500". So why the difference? Let’s just say that the town is a great place to come to get a “fresh start".

5. It’s like a film set jumble sale

Film prop Red Planet Coober Pedy
Film flotsam: a prop from Val Kilmer’s Red Planet surveys Coober Pedy’s main street (photo: Jonathan Cami).

The landscape around Coober Pedy has doubled for everything from post-apocalyptic wastelands to Mars, starring in films like Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Priscilla, Pitch Black (Vin Diesel) and Kangaroo Jack. You’ll stumble across the odd discarded (and the reclaimed) prop just walking around town, such as a Mad Max Interceptor and a ‘blaster’ from Val Kilmer’s flick Red Planet.

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6. It’s amazingly multi-cultural

Underground Serbian Orthodox Church Coober Pedy
Subterranean worship: the underground Serbian Orthodox Church, Coober Pedy (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Uncharacteristically for a small Australian country town of only a few thousand souls, Coober Pedy is intensely multicultural. In fact, with 45-plus cultures, from Serbians to Sri Lankans, it could be the most diverse place per capita in Australia. The Greek community is still one of the most dominant.

7. It’s got more opal shops than anywhere else on Earth

Opal shop Coober Pedy
Opal shops are just one of the many places you can buy the precious gems in Coober Pedy (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Again, another unofficial Coober Pedy statistic which could or could not be true. But we’re not talking about official shops anyway, of which there are plenty, but more the fact that you can buy a precious gem pretty much anywhere in town: from hotels and cafes to, well, other places that don’t offer money-back guarantees; the backbone of the ‘black opal economy’ here.

8. Most holey

One Coober cliché that lives up to the hype are comparisons with the moon’s surface (because of the countless chasm-like craters from disused mines, each with its own little pile of dirt next to it). There is no ‘backfill’ order in the town (you don’t have to fill in your claim), which gives you an endless choice of where to hide a ‘ratter’ (an opal thief). Well, so the legend goes.

9. Second-chance draw

This lack of a backfill regulation does have an upside, helping out budding and struggling miners who can’t afford the equipment to dig their own claims. It’s estimated that around 40 per cent of opal is found by “secondary" miners and noodlers: people who sift through a mine’s waste dirt. Visitors can do this at a couple of sites in town. You never know.

10. Immortal boots

Legend has it that Coober Pedy’s cemetery, Boot Hill, is named thus because people here work so hard and long that they die, and are buried, with their boots on.

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11. Boiling earth

The Breakaways Coober Pedy
The ground near the Breakaways, 30 kilomotres from Coober Pedy, can reach 65 degrees Celsius (photo: Jonathan Cami).

The desert earth of the ‘Moon Plain’ near the Breakaways Reserve, a stunning rock formation and sacred indigenous site about 30 kilometres outside town, can reach temperatures of 65 degrees when the summer air temps hit 45-plus.

12. Natural air-con

Famously, dugouts (ex-mines or custom-dug underground homes) are the residences of choice in Coober Pedy for one good reason: even when the outside temperatures nudge 50 degrees, the interiors stay in a totally liveable mid-twenties.

13. Underground worship

You can do almost anything underground in Coober Pedy; from eat, drink, visit museums and, of course, worship the denomination of your choice. There are a handful of underground churches including the Serbian Orthodox Church, Anglican Catacomb Church and the Catholic Church of St Peter and St Paul. The catchment area covered by the priest of St Peter and St Paul on his ‘bush run’ is apparently the size of Texas, stretching from the Western Australian border to Birdsville.

Old mining truck Coober Pedy
An old ‘blower’ retires into the Coober Pedy landscape (photo: Jonathan Cami).

 

MORE… Get to Coober Pedy the adventurous way. What’s it like to drive the Explorer’s Way
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3 wild corners of Australia that let you reconnect with nature (in comfort)

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The country’s rawest places offer some of its most transformative, restorative experiences.

    Australia offers sublime opportunities to disappear into the ancient, untouched wilderness, worlds away from modern stress. Wild Bush Luxury offers a collection of experiences that are a portal into the continent’s wildest, most undiscovered landscapes, from wide floodplains to vast savannas, where the only distractions are birdsong, frog calls, curious wallabies and the daily drama of sunset. With a focus on conservation and Indigenous knowledge, these all-inclusive experiences allow guests to slow down and quiet their minds for intimate encounters with the natural world.

    1. Bamurru Plains

    safari tent at Bamurru Plains wild bush luxury
    Let nature take front row.

    In the remote Top End, just outside Kakadu National Park on the fringes of the spectacular Mary River floodplains, you’ll find Bamurru Plains, a peerless Australian safari camp. After a quick air transfer from Darwin to the camp’s private airstrip, you’ll be whisked away via 4WD to a vivid natural wonderland of shimmering floodplains, red earth, herds of peacefully grazing water buffalo and 236 bird species (Bamurru means magpie goose to the Gagadju people).

    Accommodations consist of 10 mesh-walled bungalows and two luxe stilted retreats where guests enjoy panoramic, up-close views that invite them into their rightful place in the landscape (and binoculars to see it even better). Being an off-grid experience designed to help guests disconnect, the only distractions are birdsongs, frog calls, curious wallabies, the occasional crocodile sighting and the daily drama of the spectacular golden sunset.

    It’s a place where nature’s vastness rises to the level of the spiritual, and Bamurru’s understated, stylish,  largely solar-powered lodgings are designed to minimise human impact and let nature take front row.  Guests relax in comfort with plush linens, an open bar, communal tables that allow for spontaneous connections and curated dining experiences from the in-house chef using local ingredients and bush-inspired cooking methods.

    Bamurru Plains airboat tour
    Zoom across the floodplains. (Image: Adam Gibson)

    It’s a restorative backdrop for days spent zooming across the mist-covered floodplains in an airboat, birding with expert guides, taking an open-sided safari drive or river cruise through croc country. Spend time at the Hide, a treehouse-like platform that’s perfect for wildlife spotting.

    In fact, nature is so powerful here that Bamurru Plains closes entirely during the peak monsoon season (October to April), when the floodplains reclaim the land and life teems unseen beneath the water. Yet Wild Bush Luxury’s ethos continues year-round through its other experiences around Australia – each designed to immerse travellers in a distinct Australian wilderness at its most alive and untouched.

    2. Maria Island Walk

    woman on a headland of Maria Island Walk
    Maria Island Walk offers sweeping coastal scenes.

    Off Tasmania’s rugged east coast, the iconic Maria Island Walk is an intimate four-day journey through one of the country’s most hauntingly beautiful and unpopulated national parks, encompassing pristine beaches, convict-era ruins, and wildlife sightings galore. Accessible only by a small ferry, Maria Island feels like a place reclaimed by nature, which is exactly what it is: a penal settlement later used for farms and industry that finally became a national park in 1972.

    These days, the island is known as ‘Tasmania’s Noah’s Ark’ and its only human inhabitants are park rangers. It’s a place where wombats amble through grassy meadows, wallabies graze beside empty beaches, dolphins splash in clear water just offshore and Tasmanian devils – successfully reintroduced in 2012 after near-extinction on the mainland – roam free and healthy.

    Each day unfolds in an unhurried rhythm: trails through coastal eucalyptus forests or along white-sand bays, plateaus with sweeping ocean views, quiet coves perfect for swimming. Midway through the journey, you’ll explore Darlington, a remarkably preserved 19th-century convict settlement whose ruins tell stories of human ambition at the edge of the known world.

    At night, sleep beneath a canopy of stars in eco-wilderness camps – after relaxing with Tasmanian wine and locally-sourced meals, and swapping stories with your fellow trekkers by candlelight.

    3. Arkaba

    two people standing next to a 4wd in Arkaba
    Explore Arkaba on foot or on four wheels.

    For a bush immersion with more of an outback flavour, Arkaba offers a completely different type of experience. A former sheep station and historic homestead in South Australia’s striking Flinders Ranges that has been reimagined as a 63,000-acre private wildlife conservancy. It’s now patrolled mainly by kangaroos and emus.

    Small-scale tourism (the homestead has just five ensuite guestrooms) helps support rewilding projects, and guests become an essential part of the conservation journey. Days begin with sunrise hikes through ancient sandstone ridges or guided drives into the ranges to spot yellow-footed rock-wallabies. And end with sundowners on a private ridgetop watching the Elder Range glow vibrant shades of gold, crimson and violet as the air cools and time stands still.

    Here, you can join conservation activities like tracking native species or learning about Arkaba’s pioneering feral-animal eradication projects, then unwind with chef-prepared dinners served alfresco on the veranda of the homestead, which is both rustic and refined. The highlight? Following Arkaba Walk, a thriving outback wilderness where emus wander and fields of wildflowers grow.

    It’s an unforgettable immersion in Australia’s vast inland beauty, a place where the land’s deep and complicated history – and astounding resilience – leave their quiet imprint long after you return home. In a world where genuine awe is rare, Wild Bush Luxury offers a return to what matters most in the untamed beauty of Australia’s wilderness.

    Disconnect from the grind and reconnect with nature when you book with at wildbushluxury.com