13 reasons Coober Pedy is delightfully strange

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Opal mining town enigma Coober Pedy is very special place. Very special. Here are 13 reasons why this is Australia’s most delightfully strange town.

1. Blowing up stuff is a proud tradition

Not too much gets blown up these days but back in the 1980s you could buy dynamite over the counter at the local supermarket. The locals would settle disputes by blowing things sky-high rather than with their fists or a trip to court. The said-same courthouse, a police car and a restaurant were all destroyed at one time or another (apparently with no related deaths).

2. No dynamite in the cinema, if you don’t mind

A legacy of that proudly pyrotechnic era is a message which still flashes up before the feature film at the local drive in: ‘Patrons: Explosives Are Not To Be Brought Into This Theatre – The Management’.

3. Surnames are banned

Well, not officially, but they’re not embraced nor encouraged. People go their whole lives out here just being called by their nickname, such as Pommy John or Chicken Man, without anyone ever finding out who they really are. Sometimes it’s best not to ask too many questions – if you get what I mean.

4. No one has a clue how many people live here

There are the two versions of Coober Pedy’s population: the official and the unofficial. The 2011 census stated that were 1695 residents living here. But even the local council laughs at that figure, claiming it to be nearer to “around 3500". So why the difference? Let’s just say that the town is a great place to come to get a “fresh start".

5. It’s like a film set jumble sale

Film prop Red Planet Coober Pedy
Film flotsam: a prop from Val Kilmer’s Red Planet surveys Coober Pedy’s main street (photo: Jonathan Cami).

The landscape around Coober Pedy has doubled for everything from post-apocalyptic wastelands to Mars, starring in films like Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Priscilla, Pitch Black (Vin Diesel) and Kangaroo Jack. You’ll stumble across the odd discarded (and the reclaimed) prop just walking around town, such as a Mad Max Interceptor and a ‘blaster’ from Val Kilmer’s flick Red Planet.

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6. It’s amazingly multi-cultural

Underground Serbian Orthodox Church Coober Pedy
Subterranean worship: the underground Serbian Orthodox Church, Coober Pedy (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Uncharacteristically for a small Australian country town of only a few thousand souls, Coober Pedy is intensely multicultural. In fact, with 45-plus cultures, from Serbians to Sri Lankans, it could be the most diverse place per capita in Australia. The Greek community is still one of the most dominant.

7. It’s got more opal shops than anywhere else on Earth

Opal shop Coober Pedy
Opal shops are just one of the many places you can buy the precious gems in Coober Pedy (photo: Jonathan Cami).

Again, another unofficial Coober Pedy statistic which could or could not be true. But we’re not talking about official shops anyway, of which there are plenty, but more the fact that you can buy a precious gem pretty much anywhere in town: from hotels and cafes to, well, other places that don’t offer money-back guarantees; the backbone of the ‘black opal economy’ here.

8. Most holey

One Coober cliché that lives up to the hype are comparisons with the moon’s surface (because of the countless chasm-like craters from disused mines, each with its own little pile of dirt next to it). There is no ‘backfill’ order in the town (you don’t have to fill in your claim), which gives you an endless choice of where to hide a ‘ratter’ (an opal thief). Well, so the legend goes.

9. Second-chance draw

This lack of a backfill regulation does have an upside, helping out budding and struggling miners who can’t afford the equipment to dig their own claims. It’s estimated that around 40 per cent of opal is found by “secondary" miners and noodlers: people who sift through a mine’s waste dirt. Visitors can do this at a couple of sites in town. You never know.

10. Immortal boots

Legend has it that Coober Pedy’s cemetery, Boot Hill, is named thus because people here work so hard and long that they die, and are buried, with their boots on.

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11. Boiling earth

The Breakaways Coober Pedy
The ground near the Breakaways, 30 kilomotres from Coober Pedy, can reach 65 degrees Celsius (photo: Jonathan Cami).

The desert earth of the ‘Moon Plain’ near the Breakaways Reserve, a stunning rock formation and sacred indigenous site about 30 kilometres outside town, can reach temperatures of 65 degrees when the summer air temps hit 45-plus.

12. Natural air-con

Famously, dugouts (ex-mines or custom-dug underground homes) are the residences of choice in Coober Pedy for one good reason: even when the outside temperatures nudge 50 degrees, the interiors stay in a totally liveable mid-twenties.

13. Underground worship

You can do almost anything underground in Coober Pedy; from eat, drink, visit museums and, of course, worship the denomination of your choice. There are a handful of underground churches including the Serbian Orthodox Church, Anglican Catacomb Church and the Catholic Church of St Peter and St Paul. The catchment area covered by the priest of St Peter and St Paul on his ‘bush run’ is apparently the size of Texas, stretching from the Western Australian border to Birdsville.

Old mining truck Coober Pedy
An old ‘blower’ retires into the Coober Pedy landscape (photo: Jonathan Cami).

 

MORE… Get to Coober Pedy the adventurous way. What’s it like to drive the Explorer’s Way
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8 experiences to get the most out of Victoria’s Great Ocean Road

    Louis Costello Louis Costello
    Beyond the winding bitumen and coastal views lies another side to Victoria’s most famous route.

    There’s something hypnotic about this stretch of Victoria’s coast. Maybe it’s the way the road hugs the ocean so tightly, or how the cliffs catch the sun in colours you can’t name. Or, for local Victorians who drove this route as kids, maybe it’s the memories of winding through the impossibly tall trees as they seemingly guide you on your journey like wooden guardian angels. Most travellers know it for the 12 Apostles, but there are plenty of alternate experiences on the Great Ocean Road equally as worthy of your time.

    So, next time you’re in that neck of the woods, park that car, stretch those legs and try these experiences.

    1. Discover living culture at Budj Bim

    Budj Bim Cultural Landscape Tourism
    Walk across the world’s oldest known aquaculture system. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Breakaway Creek’s Budj Bim Cultural Landscape is a masterclass in educational storytelling. Join a guided tour with Budj Bim Cultural Landscape Tourism to walk across the world’s oldest known aquaculture system, where the Gunditjmara people built sophisticated eel traps and stone channels more than 6,000 years ago.

    Budj Bim’s aquaculture system predates Egypt’s pyramids by roughly 2,000 years, making it one of the oldest examples of human engineering on Earth. If that’s not enough to get your history-loving family members involved in this road trip, we’re out of ideas.

    2. Unwind in the hot springs at Warnambool

    woman relaxing at Deep Blue Hot Springs
    Let mineral-rich water heal you.

    If your legs need a break after a long drive, Deep Blue Hot Springs is your remedy. The geothermal pools sit just metres from the coastline, filled with mineral-rich water that bubbles up from deep underground. Move between open-air baths, waterfall pools and quiet zones made for meditation.

    The water in Deep Blue’s geothermal pools comes from an ancient aquifer nearly 850 metres below the Earth’s surface, which, in non-scientific terms, means it’s far more likely to have healing properties than the mineral water you’d find at the supermarket.

    3. Take to the air at Princetown

    12 Apostles Helicopters flight alternate experiences on the Great Ocean Road
    See an icon from a different view.

    You may have seen the Twelve Apostles from the trusty viewing platform, but a helicopter flight with 12 Apostles Helicopters shows you just how sprawling and rugged this coastline really is.

    The trip covers everything from Port Campbell to London Bridge (not to be confused with the UK’s own), giving you a rare chance to watch waves carving the limestone cliffs from above. It’s worth noting that the limestone stacks of the Twelve Apostles are said to erode by roughly two centimetres each year, so the longer you leave it, the less of the Apostles you’ll see.

    4. Step into the past at Flagstaff Hill

    Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village and Museum
    Visit a time of yore.

    Continue the tour through Warnambool at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village and Museum , a recreated 19th-century port town. Hear stories from the days when shipwrecks were as common as seagulls, with an astounding 180 ships believed to have sunk along the Shipwreck Coast in less than five years.

    The night show, complete with lights, sound, and sea spray, brings the coastline’s most dramatic stories to life.

    If you’re staying the night, Simon’s Waterfront offers relaxed dining with fresh local seafood and oceanfront views. Order the catch of the day and toast to the sailors who never made it ashore.

    5. Learn to surf in Torquay, Lorne, or Anglesea

    kid having a lesson with Go Ride A Wave
    Learn how to hang 10. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Whether you’ve surfed before or can barely stand on a board, Go Ride A Wave will have you upright in no time. Torquay’s calm beaches are ideal for first-timers, while Lorne and Anglesea bring a bit more energy for those unafraid to get dunked.

    Bells Beach, just down the road from Torquay, has even hosted the world’s longest-running professional surfing competition since 1962. So, for those eager to have a gander at pros using surfboards like they’re an additional appendage, the competition usually runs sometime in autumn.

    6. Tackle the trails in Forrest

    Barwon Flow Trails Otways Flow MTB
    Hire a bike and explore MTB trails through the Otways.

    Forrest is a haven for mountain bikers thanks to an expansive network of trails through stunning natural scenery. The Forrest trail network has almost 100 kilometres of singletrack across 36 trails, so there’s something for every level of rider. That’s including more than 60 kilometres of purpose-built mountain bike trails winding through the Otways’ dense forest. Cycle through ancient myrtle beech trees and towering tree ferns, with smaller ferns and soft mosses forming a carpet at your feet.

    Hire a bike from Forrest MTB Hire and take your pick from easy, scenic rides to more challenging singletracks, such as Red Carpet or Rollercoaster.

    7. See wildlife up close in Apollo Bay

    bush rat on Wildlife Wonders tour
    Get help spotting the locals. (Image: Doug Gimsey)

    If spotting koalas and kangaroos in the wild feels like winning the lottery, Wildlife Wonders gives you guaranteed sightings without cages or crowds. Every visit to the sanctuary helps fund the Conservation Ecology Centre which supports endangered species across the Otways, so your business is appreciated by humans and animals alike.

    The guided walk takes you through protected Otways habitat where you might spot potoroos (or joey lookalikes for those unfamiliar with a potoroo), wallabies, and sleepy koalas lounging in the trees.

    8. Visit the Cape Otway Lightstation

    Cape Otway Lightstation
    Delve into the tales of Cape Otway Lightstation.

    Towering over the sea on a cliff above the Southern Ocean, Cape Otway Lightstation has been guiding ships since 1848. Before the lighthouse was built, Cape Otway was one of the most treacherous points on the Victorian coast, with dozens of shipwrecks occurring in its surrounding waters. Pick the right day, and you may bump into a local willing to tell you about the wreck of Eric the Red .

    While at the Cape Otway Lightstation, explore the keeper’s quarters, walk the coastal trails, and take in views that only stop short at the horizon.

    And no, contrary to popular belief, the Round the Twist lighthouse is actually located in Split Point, just shy of two hours in the direction of Melbourne. Nothing’s stopping you from embarking on a lighthouse crawl, though.

    Plan your next no-stone-unturned journey along this iconic Aussie road at visitgreatoceanroad.org.au.