Essential Guide To Visiting The Flinders Ranges

There are great rafts of information published about the Flinders Rangers. Here’s our distilled guide to the essential Flinders Rangers experiences, accommodation and dining options.

Top Five Reasons to Visit the Flinders Ranges

1. It’s the most accessible Outback in Australia, with excellent infrastructure and loads to see and do.

2. The ancient rocky landscapes are geographical marvels. Wilpena Pound from the air, the gorges and further north forms of uranium in some rocks are some amazing sights.

3. The best 4WD driving in the country, from easy to extremely challenging, half-day to multi-day journeys.

4. The walking is some of the most pleasurable outback walking in the country. There’s loads of wildlife. The Heysen trail starts here.

5. It’s historically rich. The Manhattan Project scientists were all over the northern Flinders Ranges during the war. Famous explorer Douglas Mawson saw glacial rocks in the Flinders that led him to his more renowned Antarctica expeditions.

Top Five Experiences in the Flinders

1. The Ridge Top Tour, Arkaroola, Northern Flinders Rangers

An outrageously rocky one-way 4WD track has been cut through the Northern Flinders. Piling into the back of a specially designed open top 4WD for the 4.5 hour journey is about more than just appreciating awesome scenery. Guides unearth the amazing geology, flora and fauna in the area. The history of the pioneering characters like Mawson and some of his students (like R S Sprigg who developed the tour) is an insight into one of the many unappreciated eras in Australian history. The highlight is arriving at the fall-off-the-cliff Sillar’s Lookout. Just make sure you’ve been to the bathroom before you leave because climbing to the top is a rough ride and a full bladder is the LAST thing you want.

2. Wilpena Pound Scenic Flight

See the Pound at its best with a morning flight around the edges of the bowl-shaped crater – not formed by a volcano or meteor but the earth’s shifting crust.

Bird's eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges — Bird’s eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges.

3. Sunset on the Chase

Another fierce 4WD (lucky someone else is driving) up to the top of the Chase Ranges to look back at Wilpena Pound and the Elders Ranges as the sunsets. In AT’s opinion, it’s better than the rock sunset. Catered by Rawnsley Park’s Woolshed Restaurant, this two-hour trip is best done with special someone.

4. Arkaba Walking Tours

It’s comfortable walking when you have your own guide and a swag waiting at the end of the day. Wine and dinner is done, all you need to do is carry water and lunch. The guides take you to secret treasures of the ranges, catering each walk to your desired comfort level.

5. Discover an Ancient Land

The full-day tour from Rawnsley Park takes you to the spectacular Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges. Keep an eye out for Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies, Emus and Euros while learning more about the history and geology of the place.

Best Places To Stay

Rawnsley Park Eco Villas

The Eco Villas on Rawnsley are the best value accommodation in the Flinders and are indulgent without being excessive. The huge spaces are great for relaxing after a tough day touring, set up with all the amenities you could want. Sit in the big bed and look up at night to see though the skylights to the stars – just magic. Beautifully designed and crafted, the villas are excellently positioned to take in the sunrise on the Elder ranges.

Wilpena Pound Resort

Recently updated, the old Chalet is now a resort. The Brachina Rooms are our pick but they’re also the closest to the resort reception and restaurant. Try and grab one away from the main entry for a little more privacy. The resort is comfortable but not plush and is the perfect base for exploring the area. From here you can strike out into the pound, take a flight or explore the historic old homesteads.

Arkaba Station

Well, this is living the high life. With just five rooms and a maximum number of 10 guests, this is intimate, exclusive and luxury in the Flinders. The ethos of the station is to make guests feel like a rich uncle has thrown them the keys to a manor and said help yourself. And you do. With a chef on hand for all meals, two hosts and two guides for walking, it’s not hard to enjoy yourself. The 1851 homestead has been beautifully restored and each room has its own quirks. Whether you want a cosy dinner under the stars or a guide-led activity, the ranges are your oyster.

Prairie Hotel, Parachilna

More known for its food than furnishings, the hotel has very comfortable and well-appointed rooms for travellers. The only downside is that they are on the plains fringing the ranges.
From $145 per double

Camping

There are loads of Camping grounds throughout the rangers. The most well maintained are at Wilpena Resort, Rawnsley Park and Arkaroola. Arkaroola also has cottage and lodge accommodation options.

Where to Eat

Woolshed Restaurant

The restaurant in the middle of the outback caters to all tastes and budgets and is a thriving regional hub for all travellers.

Prairie Hotel

World renowned for the Feral Mixed Grill where a camel sausage, emu pattie, goat chop and kangaroo fillet are all dished up on the very foreign mash potato. And for dessert, the quandong pie is a must. The restaurant has carved out a deserved reputation for serving up one of the great outback meals.

Characters

The Sprigg Family

The Sprigg Family (RJ started the private Arkarolla Wilderness Are in 1967) have a huge historical connection to the land and were pioneers of tourism in the area. Unfortunately, RJ passed away in 1994. His children, Margaret and Doug continue the tradition of preserving a spectacular wilderness and can be found at the homestead on most days. They have great yarns to tell.

The Smith Family

Tony and Julie Smith are fifth-generation Flinders Ranges Pastoralists. Passionate farmers, Tony and Julie have moved their business into the tourism sector. Typical farmer, Tony is quietly spoken but a fantastic operator. He and Julie are legends in the area and if you get the opportunity make sure you buy Tony a beer and ask him about the golden fox of the Flinders Ranges.

The Rasheeds

Like the Spriggs, the Rasheeds are synonymous with the area. Original settlers of the Wilpena Chalet, the twin sons of founder Keith and Dean ran separate entities in the area. Both have sold out of their interests but remain in the area. Keith is still involved in the Air Wilpena operation and is well-known for the pink headband on his Akubra and a pink jeep.

Monarto Safari Resort’s new Safari Lodge delivers so much more than a memorable stay; it’s packed full of unforgettable moments.

Just a year after the 78-room Monarto Safari Resort opened, the new Safari Lodge brings a more intimate and exclusive overnight African safari experience to Australia just outside of Adelaide. But just how similar is it to an African safari?

Consider these pinch-me moments I had during my stay and decide for yourself.

1. Cheetah sightings at check-in

monarto safari lodge cheetahs — Spot cheetahs before you even check in.

Safari Lodge is set within the Wild Africa precinct of the expansive, open-range Monarto Safari Park. I expected to see animals, but I didn’t expect to see two cheetahs stalking the fenceline just behind my tent at check-in.

I cross the paddock to get a closer look. Both are now perched like a sphinx on a hill overlooking the 20 premium tents that make up Safari Lodge. I stand here, locked in place, waiting to see if they make a move. After 10 minutes like this, I turn to get settled into the tent but throw a final look in their direction; they’ve slinked back down, now barely visible in the grass. I’m sure I’ll be dreaming about this encounter later tonight.

2. Sipping champagne as a giraffe sips from a waterhole

giraffes at monarto safari lodge — Enjoy champagne while meeting the locals. (Credit: Katie Carlin)

The all-inclusive stay includes a 2.5-hour Sunset Safari that takes guests into the Wild Africa precinct onboard a purpose-built Safari Land Cruiser for a chance to see free-roaming herds of African animals up close.

The safari drive culminates in a champagne and canapé stop in a fenced and sheltered viewing area of the precinct. A chance to watch the sun set as animals gather around one of the many waterholes. And we’re in luck! Two giraffes are stripping leaves from a nearby tree as three white rhinos graze to my right. One giraffe starts galloping, in that funny head-bobbing way giraffes do, to the water’s edge. It splays its legs and bends its long neck down to start slurping up water. I find giraffes endlessly entertaining, and sipping champagne while watching the scene play out is the icing on the cake.

3. A rain shower with views of a waterhole where African animals gather

monarto safari lodge King Safari Tent — Enjoy views from the King Safari Tent.

I am staying in tent 17, one of the best positioned tents for animal encounters, due to its proximity to the waterhole. Not only does the spacious 71-square-metre King Safari Tent feature a king bed, lounge area, separate dressing room with kitchenette, coffee machine, kettle and fully stocked mini bar, and ensuite bathroom. But you can even glimpse the waterhole from the rain shower. It’s thoughtful details like this that keep you connected to the safari experience no matter where you are located.

4. Feeding lions from within a caged dome

Lion 360 experience at monarto safari resort — Step into the Lion 360 experience. (Credit: Katie Carlin)

Monarto Safari Park isn’t a zoo. Set across 1500 hectares of South Australian bushland, it’s an expansive safari experience. It’s been designed to support complex social groupings, natural behaviours and long-term species management. Entry is included for guests, but I’ve decided to upgrade my experience with tickets to Lion 360.

Senior Keeper Rachel Hemming herds 15 of us into a domed cage for the unique lion feeding experience. She leads Monarto’s care and conservation breeding programs for their iconic big cats. “Make sure you don’t get too close to the edge of the cage; the lions like to mark their territory,” she warns.

She starts making cat-like calls to Kubwa, Kashka and Kito, the three male lions lazing somewhere out of sight behind the tree line in the distance. The promise of food eventually lures the lions over. I’m in awe of their size as they pace back and forth, pausing to take the meat as it’s fed to them via tongs.

In her excitement, one lady has inched too close; a lion takes aim and hits his mark before she realises her mistake. I see her leaving the gift shop with a new jacket not long after the tour ends.

5. A swim in a private plunge pool with a floating charcuterie board

Monarto safari Lodge swim in a private plunge pool with a floating charcuterie board — Tuck into a poolside treat. (Credit: Katie Carlin)

The Safari Lodge reception is also home to a restaurant and bar, heated swimming pool and several private plunge pools available to book. After a morning spent at Monarto Safari Park, a dip in one of the private plunge pools sounds too good to skip.

I change into my swimmers and make my way to the lodge. A generous charcuterie board arrives shortly after I slip into the pool. I’m told floating trays are already on order, but picking at the selection of cheeses, meats, nuts and fruit while perched on the edge sipping champagne is just as indulgent as it is having it float in the water. I never make it to the gym or pickleball court beside the lodge, but I have no regrets.

6. A front-row seat to a male rhino rejected by two females

male rhino grazing — Watch a rhino’s unlucky day. (Credit: Lucas Alexander)

Louis Tonkin, our Wild Africa Tour host, is giddy with excitement when he spots the three white rhinos on our Sunset Safari drive. He has an inkling that we’re about to get a show.

He pulls to the side and tells us what terrible eyesight white rhinos have, struggling to spot a motionless animal or object even from a short distance. However, they make up for it with acute hearing and an incredible sense of smell. Which explains why the larger male rhino is methodically creeping towards the two disinterested females grazing metres in front of him, then suddenly freezing on the spot. He’s hoping one will be open to mating with him. He takes another wary shuffle forward and suddenly the smaller of the two turns and charges towards him, butting him hard with her head. It’s a firm no. The male, denied, sheepishly backs away.

7. Watching a dazzle of zebra from the comfort of a luxury safari tent

monarto safari resort zebra — Wildlife encounters abound.

Rain clouds loom, and the wind is howling, but thankfully it hasn’t deterred the zebras. I’m brewing a cup of Monarto’s Serengé-T – a vanilla rooibos blended with Daintree black tea and butterfly pea flower when I spot them. Six zebras are prancing across the plains for a drink at the waterhole. I watch their antics from the deck of my King Safari Tent, wrapped in a merino blanket made by Australian-owned Grampians Good Co. and marvel at the fact I get a front-row show to these wild animals.

After they disappear from view, I sit with the sketch pad and pencils I find in the cupboard and start drawing some of my most memorable animal encounters from the weekend – starting with the two hippos I saw ravenously munching on grass at dusk as we made our way out of the Wild Africa precinct last night. This really is as close to an authentic safari experience as you can get outside of Africa.

Start planning a wild stay in the luxurious Safari Lodge at monartosafariresort.com.

The essential guide to visiting the Flinders Ranges