Driving the Overlander’s Way & Savannah Way

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Australian Traveller looks at the Overlander’s and Savannah Way, one of Australia’s 10 Greatest Outback Journeys.

A quick farewell glance in the rear view mirror when leaving Townsville and before you know it you’ve begun your Overland and Savannah Way adventures – combining two of Australia’s great outback trails into a single 2235km journey across the northeastern corner of the continent from Townsville to the NT border via iconic outback Mt Isa, before looping back east to Cairns.

 

Heading southwest along the Flinders Highway (The Overlander’s Way) to Hughenden, you can test your singing or sportsmanship skills at the old gold mining town of Charters Towers – once Queensland’s second-largest city, now host to Australia’s largest amateur cricket carnival and music quest. Pause at the Burra Range lookout on your way through White Mountains National Park. At the strategically placed Torrens Creek you can learn about the WWII Coral Sea battle when the town became a supply dump for explosives, which was accidentally blown up by US soldiers.

 

After a quick stop at Qld’s Prairie Hotel to ease the hunger pangs, you’ll have made it to Hughenden, where you can take a prehistoric walk through the Flinders Discovery Centre or snap a photo with Mutt, the life-sized Muttaburrasaurus model. Hit up a 4WD track and finish the day off with a sunset at MountWalkeror the stunning Porcupine Gorge.

You’ll need all your rest, though, because your next major stop will be Mount Isa – but on the way be sure to drop in on Richmond (for some fossil fossicking), Julia Creek with its famous Dirt ‘n’ Dust Festival each April, and Cloncurry – home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service with its memorial to founder John Flynn.

 

While inMountIsa, raise your Akubras to the largest rodeo in the Southern Hemisphere. One of the largest producers of copper ore inAustralia, Isa is considered the Rodeo Capital of Australia and has always been a town renowned for its outback welcome. With 900km clocked on the odometer, you’ve roughly reached the halfway mark in your Overland Savannah adventure, and as Queensland Rail so aptly puts it: “You’re not a real Aussie till you’ve been to the Isa."

 

Travelling two hours west along Tojo’s Highway (locals’ nickname) to Camooweal, just 12km shy of the NT border, this once lively drovers’ centre is Queensland’s most westerly town. Skim the border as you head north to Burketown via Gregory Downs, where you can rent a canoe year-round and spend the night camping next to the river.

Some 120km later, you’ll have finally joined up with the legendary nation-spanning Savannah Way– just before rolling into Burketown, the self-titled Barramundi Capital of Australia. Outside its annual fishing championships, this small town on the Albert River with its lonely salt plains is a peaceful divider between the wetlands and the magnificent Savannah grasslands.

 

Heading east to Normanton (winner ofTidyTown’s Friendliest Town 2007), you’re now deep in Savannah Gulf territory. And, after posing alongside Krys the Savannah King, Normanton’s statuesque 8.63m tribute to the largest estuarine croc ever captured, it’s all aboard the historic Gulflander train for 152km of scenic bliss. (It eventually returns for those who left their car in Normanton.)

 

If you’re driving the whole way, stop in for some wetland scenery and wildlife at Karumba, a primary player in the Gulf’s prawning and fishing industry, then back on course for your lunch date in Croydon, another ex-goldmining town. Once pastGeorgetown, a booming goldmining town in the 1800s, you’ll be delighted to reachMountSurprise, where you can take a family friendly half-day gem fields tour.

 

With souvenirs and memories well in hand, you’re now on your final leg toCairns. Spend a night camping in theUndaraVolcanicNational Parkand explore by guided tour one of the longest lava cave tubes in the world. Then, once on the home stretch, take a dip in the Innot Hot Springs, just west of the Atherton Tablelands, and finish your outback adventure in sunnyCairns.

 

Who got there first? // Matthew Flinders first charted the Gulf Coast in 1802, but it was Captain J Lort Stokes who retraced his steps and discovered the Albert River, sailing down it and first spotting the grasslands he called the “the plains of promise". Ludwig Leichhardt explored the area next in 1848, 12 years before Burke and Wills. However, it was Frederick Walker and William Landsborough (when searching for Burke and Wills) who opened up the whole Gulf area.

 

Don’t miss // The astonishing Morning Glory in the Gulf of Carpentaria, a 1000km-long cloud formation that rolls across the sky from Sept-Nov. Best seen from Burketown.

 

Drive time // Total distance, 2235km. This type of trip has a lot to do and see so there’s no point rushing it. Spend at least a good two to three weeks experiencing everything it has to offer.

 

Dos + Don’ts

1. Some parts of the Gulf Savannah suffer from lack of road infrastructure, so be particularly careful during monsoonal season.

2. Before bushwalking, especially in remote areas like the White Mountains NP, tell someone where you’re going, when and your expected return.

3. Remember to report any sealed roads on your travels that you consider to be particularly unroadworthy to the RACQ (www.racq.com.au).

4. 4WDs aren’t invincible, so be careful with any deep creek crossings – if water gets into the air intake, it’s game over for your engine.

5. Invest in a “snatchem strap" for extraction from muddy or boggy roads (if there’s another vehicle nearby, that is).

 

Accessibility // Most of the roads along the Overland Way and Savannah Way are sealed – and even the un-sealed ones are definitely accessible for a standard vehicle. However, there are some pretty spectacular 4WD tracks that a regular car won’t be able to handle.

 

Did you know? // Broadly speaking, there are two seasons in this part of Queensland: April to September is dry/winter and October to March is wet/summer.

 

More info // Visit www.savannahway.com.au for more info on the Savannah Way from Hell’s Gate to Cairns, and www.adventureoutback.com.au  for more info on the Overland Way.

 

Sidetracks // Overland and Savannah Ways

1. Burke and Wills roadhouse // The site of the explorers’ last northern camp, halfway between Cloncurry and Normanton on the Matilda Hwy.

2. Hell’s Gate // 50km east of the NT border and gateway to the Macassan coast. Explore Aboriginal art and don’t miss the Hell’s Gate Roadhouse, which has everything from food supplies to a limited mechanical workshop.

3. Pungalina Station // For a real outback experience, stay at this eco wilderness Australian outback property 65km north of the Savannah Way (1.5hr flight from Mt Isa). 500,000 hectares of rugged gorges, barramundi fishing and bird watching. With safari camps, flying and 4WDs, it’s an outback adventurer’s delight. www.pungalinasafaris.com.au

4. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park // 282,000 hectare park around 400km northwest of Mt Isa.

5. O’Brien’s Creek // Grab a fossicking permit and geo tool before heading off to hunt for topaz in O’Brien’s Creek, 40min north of Mt Surprise.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Dive into summer with hikes, great bites and wellness in The Tweed

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Warmer days call for slowing down and relaxing in nature. Discover why The Tweed is the ultimate destination to do just that.

    As the end of the year draws near, the need for rest and restoration grows ever more prominent. For many, that means heading into nature – and there’s plenty of science to back up the benefits of doing so. It quite literally makes us happier as it reduces stress hormones, lowers our blood pressure and more. And what better place to lean into this feel-good effect than during summer in The Tweed (in the Northern Rivers region of NSW)? Blending sparkling beaches, riverside towns and hinterland villages, this area has nature covered, while also offering top activities and dining options.

    Slip, slop, slap.

    And of course, pack your SPF. We Are Feel Good Inc’s Ultra-Light Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 is a lightweight and fast-absorbing formula that keeps your skin hydrated and shielded, thanks to nourishing Coconut Oil and Vitamin E. But it’s also helping preserve the natural beauty around you on your Tweed vacation, thanks to 30 per cent ocean waste packaging.

    Discover eight experiences that make The Tweed the perfect place for summer.

    1. Underwater worlds

    two people swimming after turtle on the tweed
    Get a chance to swim with the locals.

    There’s something about the ocean that calls to us as humans, and what’s below the surface is even more magical.

    Green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles (not to mention an abundance of other marine life) all use the protected waters around Cook Island, near Fingal Head, as their foraging ground, making it the perfect place to dive and snorkel to spot these adorable creatures.

    Join Cooly Eco Adventures on a guided snorkelling tour that combines unforgettable turtle encounters with an inspiring look into marine conservation.

    2. Farm-to-table dining

    table spread at Potager restaurant
    Treat your taste buds at Potager. (Image: Cara Sophie)

    Respecting the land and nature also means appreciating its abundance of food. From farm-to-table cafes and boutique breweries to river cruises and restaurants championing local produce, dining around The Tweed often means engaging with the best local producers.

    The award-winning Potager Restaurant, part of The Hinterland Collection, is the perfect example; beginning life as a kitchen garden, the passion to champion local producers is woven into every dish. Vegetables, fruit and herbs are picked from the garden or sourced from other local producers, the seafood comes from the Northern Rivers, and meat is sourced from ethical local producers. Even the cocktail list features local distillers.

    Extend your stay with a night (or several) at boutique on-site accommodation, Potager House. This French-inspired country four-bedroom retreat boasts stunning views of the surrounding hills and nearby ocean, as well as a large pool, outdoor entertaining area and infrared sauna.

    3. Water wellness

    Waterguru Mindfulness in the Mangroves summer on the tweed
    Find mindfulness in mangroves. (Image: Matt Johnson)

    You’ll find mindfulness while floating around the mangroves of Kingscliff’s Cudgen Creek at any time, but Watersports Guru offers an immersive experience to help guests do so with more intent. Join a 90-minute guided session on a stand-up paddleboard to reconnect with nature and relax through breathwork, gentle movement and sensory awareness.

    If you’re feeling more adventurous, Watersports Guru also offer Kayak fishing adventures or join a Sea Turtle Odyssey experience.

    4. Restorative seaside stays

    woman relaxing in spa at Halcyon Wellness, halcyon house
    Unwind at Halcyon Wellness.

    The Tweed encourages locals and visitors alike to slow down. To really indulge, a seaside stay is a must. Halcyon House has understood the assignment, blending a wellness philosophy centred on balance and self-discovery with luxurious surrounds. Stay in one of 22 rooms and suites (each individually designed by eclectic interior designer Anna Spiro) right on the beachfront. Book restorative treatments at the onsite spa, Halcyon Wellness, relax by the pool, dine at the hatted Paper Daisy restaurant and just let The Tweed work its magic.

    While Blue Water Motel offers a relaxed coastal escape, just steps from Kingscliff Beach. Settle in stylish rooms, recently restyled by Jason Grant, nodding to the cool of Kingscliff with a fun retro vibe. Hire a bike from reception to explore the surrounding area.

    5. Tasty drops

    Husk Farm Distillery
    Join a Farm to Bottle tour. (Image: Salsingh Photography)

    The owners at Husk Farm Distillery aren’t just about creating high-quality rum: they’re also farmers themselves. In fact, they create one of the world’s only single estate, farm-to-bottle spirits. Join a Farm to Bottle tour to discover the sustainable ‘full circle’ distilling practices used here, and even get hands-on with your own cane knife to help harvest and juice your own stalk of cane. And, of course, a welcome drink plus complimentary tastings along the way.

    6. Rail trail adventures

    Cycle the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.
    Cycle the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.

    Exploring the rolling green slopes and historic towns of the 24-kilometre Tweed section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is one of the best ways to connect with the region’s lush hinterland and interesting heritage. In this section of the trail, discover the area’s railway history at heritage-listed Murwillumbah Railway Station, and traverse by 18 railway bridges and through two railway tunnels.

    Linking vibrant towns and villages with the larger hub of Murwillumbah, this section of the trail is covered in asphalt or compacted gravel, making it accessible for all ages and abilities, from prams to adaptive bikes. 

    7. Linger longer

    surfer at fingal heads the tweed
    Enjoy beachside locations, like Fingal Heads.

    Linger longer at one of the seven idyllic beach, river and creekside locations of Tweed Holiday Parks – including at Tweed Heads, Kingscliff Beach, Hastings Point and Pottsville South. All just steps from the water’s edge, they make the ideal base to unwind, or head out for exploration of The Tweed. Choose from luxury waterfront cabins, accessible cabins, surfari tents (yes, they are basically glamping tents) or spacious sites for caravans, motorhomes and campervans or tents.

    Tweed Holiday Parks
    Stay for longer and indulge in plat at Tweed Holiday Parks.

    Find your feel-good summer in The Tweed at visitthetweed.com.au.