5 heavenly reasons to travel for cheese

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How far would you travel for oozy brie, sizzling haloumi or fourth-generation cheddar? These cheese restaurants, shops and cafes are seriously worth a dairy day-trip.

1. Melbourne’s fab fromage trio

Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder is one of the most authentic fromageries around, stocking a pungent variation of European stars such as the soft Langres (from the Champagne region).

 

Bespoke picnic cheese hampers are a great idea and for the devotees its Cheese Club sends your favourites straight to your door. (48-50 Bridge Road, Richmond).

 

La Latteria in Carlton is mozzarella central – the fiore di burrata and buffalo are worth the trip alone. There’s an abundance of (daily) hand-stretched fresh cheeses; the likes of the versatile baby smoked provolina is a good starting point. (104 Elgin Street, Carlton).

 

Milk The Cow has been around for a few years now and the specialist (and importantly) licensed fromagerie on St Kilda’s trendy Fitzroy Street is well on its way to becoming a Melbourne classic. 150 cheeses enough for you? And every one with a story to tell. (157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda)

2. Tassie’s cheese islands

Forty-five minutes by boat south-east of Hobart takes you to foodie oasis Bruny Island, where you will find local producer Bruny Island Cheese Company.

 

Among the eight varieties (plus cheesecake) made by Nick Haddow and his team is the awesomely oozy brie ‘Saint’.

 

Inevitably, while you’re on Bruny, you’ll gravitate towards the most southerly winery in Australia, Bruny Island Premium Wines, too.

 

On an isle off the arguably even more isolated north-west coast of Tassie is Australian cheese-making institution King Island Dairy. Its cheese shop has plenty of tasters, but you may want to start with the delectable double brie.

 

Once you’ve had your fill of cheese, it’s time to explore the other fresh produce opportunities on King Island, from its heavenly crustaceans, king crabs to crays, to the slightly more challenging kelp chutney.

 

Back on the Tassie mainland, there are a plethora of cheesy choices. Where to start?

 

The Holy Cow Café on the grounds of this country’s oldest producer, Pyengana Dairy Company (in the north-east) is as good a place as any, for its fourth-generation cloth-bound cheddar and cheese toasties with a twist.

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3. Valley of the Kings

In the middle of Victoria’s King Valley gourmet belt, among local stores, farm gates and just around the corner from Brown Brothers vineyard, is the former butter factory, which is now thankfully Milawa Cheese Company.

 

The cheeses from this rather large producer on the cusp of the High Country are simply delicious; start with the subtle flavours of washed-rind King River Gold, and move on to eight more cow cheeses and six goat cheeses, maybe the Mount Buffalo Blue, if blue is you.

 

For cheese disciples, there are cheese-making courses and you can even pre-order your cheese ‘wedding cake’.

 

Round off your visit with a Milawa Blue pizza (prosciutto, pumpkin, fig & pistachio paste) from the restaurant. (Factory Road, Milawa)

4. This Kangaroo prefers ewe

Kangaroo Island producers have a reputation for doing things their own way and none more so than Island Pure Sheep Dairy.

 

Just a hop, skip and a 10-kilometre drive from KI’s largest settlement, Kingscote, this dairy is all about the sheep, proudly embracing the Spanish proverb: ‘Cheese from the ewe, milk from the goat, butter from the cow’.

 

You can meet the dairy’s 1200 grain-fed ‘girls’ on your visit and, of course, gorge on the ewe-milk cheeses, from feta to kefalotiri.

 

Island Pure’s fresher than fresh yogurt is also worth leaving space for – both in your stomach and car boot.

 

Watch the process of hand making labneh or ricotta, then take a wander down to the banks of the Cygnet River to walk off your rampant sampling.

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5. The Stinking Bishops

Boutique cheese bar The Stinking Bishops in Sydney’s bo-ho hub Newtown certainly knows how to put a cheese board together.

 

There is a strong representation of artisanal Australians as well, as French, Italian and UK varieties, among its 40-plus-cheese fromagerie. But the Bishop is no one-food-group pony.

 

There are also cured meat boards, ploughman’s lunches, mac ‘n’ cheese, house-pickled mussels plus more substantial dishes, such as the whole roasted spitchcock, served at lunch and dinner.

 

Beware, the Euro bread here is more than moreish.

 

And, naturally, you can choose from a rustic list of wines, beers and whisky too.

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Two of the best festivals are coming to Ballarat: here’s how to plan for them

(Credit: Tony Evans)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Come for a couple of unmissable festivals, stay for a long, leisurely weekend of wining, dining and exploring all the heritage-rich glory Ballarat has to offer.

    Far from a sleepy town, the historic city of Ballarat is an unexpectedly vibrant cultural and culinary destination. Year-round, it hosts a roster of events and experiences – including the upcoming Ballarat Heritage Festival, a celebration of the city’s past, and the new Ballarat Craft and Design Week, a must for fans of all things handmade and thoughtfully designed.

    Beyond the festivals, there’s a bevy of things to see, do, eat and drink – making a weekend in Ballarat an absolute no-brainer.

    Plus, just 90 minutes away from Melbourne by car along the Western Freeway or an easy train ride from Southern Cross, getting here is simple and stress-free.

    Day 1

    Morning

    Perridak Arts ballarat
    Peruse works by local First Nations artists at Perridak Arts. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Start your Ballarat jaunt at Johnny Alloo, a beautifully restored cafe harking back to the 1870s with original details and contemporary touches. Order a seasonal plate from the all-day brunch menu alongside a cleverly reimagined ‘cup of tea’ – the cafe’s very own Earl Grey-infused early bird spritz.

    Next, head to Perridak Arts, a First Nations-owned and operated gallery filled with powerful works by local First Nations artists. Your next stop is Hop Lane, an alleyway crowned by a floating canopy of technicoloured umbrellas and centred on Hop Queen, a striking mural of a commanding female figure.

    Afternoon

    The Pottage ballarat
    Create your own artworks at The Pottage. (Credit: Mass Motion)

    Cobb’s Coffee is a firm favourite for consistently good coffee and thoughtful food, making it a solid lunch spot. The cafe’s signature sandwiches and toasties are well worth trying as you take in the heritage surrounds.

    While away your afternoon at The Pottage, where Ballarat ceramicist and social media favourite Shelby Sherritt has just moved into brand-new digs. Try a throwing workshop, or pick a piece of pottery to paint from the extensive collection (the team will post it to you once it’s fired).

    Now it’s time to check into Hotel Vera, the newest boutique accommodation in the city’s already-impressive line-up. The hotel presents a modern spin on Ballarat’s gold rush-era past – think design-led rooms, gold detailing and a curated art collection. There are only seven suites, each as beautifully finished as the next, with high-quality linens and plush furnishings.

    Evening

    Babae hotel vera ballarat
    Sit down to a seven-course feast at Babae. (Credit: Einwick)

    Treat yourself to a pre-dinner drink at Grainery Lane. The saloon-style bar has rich, period-inspired decor (including an original bar top sourced from Chicago) and drinks reminiscent of 1900s classics, crafted with local ingredients.

    Head back to Hotel Vera for a seven-course feast at Babae. This intimate dining room serves up a refined, ever-evolving menu made with exceptional produce and is a truly memorable experience.

    Day 2

    Spencer & Nick Ballarat Craft and Design Week
    Spend the day at Ballarat Craft and Design Week. (Credit: Klapper Films)

    Linger over a slow breakfast at Hotel Vera. You’ll graze your way through a spread of locally sourced treats, from toasted granola and pastries to seasonal fruit, and will need a strong coffee before a busy day at the main event: Ballarat Craft and Design Week.

    This year marks the event’s inauguration, a celebration of artists, makers, designers and manufacturers. It’s a testament to Ballarat’s position as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art.

    The festival features a thoughtfully curated roster of events and activities, including free talks, hands-on workshops where you can craft your own keepsake, displays, studio tours and more. The central theme is Bound, with a flagship exhibition hosted in Ballarat’s grand and iconic Mining Exchange. The exhibition brings together five immersive projects designed to be touched, explored and experienced.

    Afternoon

    Pancho ballarat
    Discuss your favourite artworks over lunch at Pancho. (Credit Einwick)

    The Craft and Design program continues at The Unicorn Collection. The gallery is hosting Why Are You Here?, an installation presented by artists from the community that centres on the meaning of Ballarat as home.

    Recharge with lunch at Pancho, which turns out vibrant food from across Central and South America. Make sure to order from the specials board, often featuring dishes from more far-flung locations.

    For a top-up of local craftsmanship, a visit to Wootten is a must. This workshop and retail space is a Ballarat institution, making and selling made-to-order and customised footwear alongside a selection of handcrafted leather goods.

    Evening

    Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets contain incredible dining options. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Book a table at Mr Jones, headed by chef Damian Jones, who’s worked in Michelin-Starred restaurants around the globe. The modern Asian menu changes weekly, but you can always expect the very best ingredients cooked with precision and restraint.

    Finish off your day of art and exploration with a nightcap (and maybe a cheeky late-night snack) at Renard. This intimate and atmospheric cocktail bar does clever drinks alongside French-leaning small plates – we love the smoked trout pate and goat’s cheese doughnuts.

    Day 3

    Morning

    Black Cat Truffles
    Stop into Black Cat Truffles before heading home. (Credit Einwick)

    It’s your final morning in Ballarat (that is, until you inevitably return), so it’s worth making it an unhurried one. Turret Cafe is your best bet for a relaxed and satisfying breakfast, with a produce-driven all-day menu and excellent coffee inside a character-filled setting.

    A wander around the leafy Ballarat Botanical Gardens, followed by an excursion to Ross Creek Gallery, is the ideal way to stretch your legs after your morning feast. The gardens are replete with seasonal flower displays and heritage-listed trees, while the gallery is hosting a group exhibition centred on printmakers from across the region as part of Craft and Design Week.

    Farewell your weekend escape – and fuel up for the journey home – at Black Cat Truffles. True to its name, the restaurant serves truffle-infused dishes (alongside regular fare) and the surrounding farm hosts truffle hunts and experiences. Pair your meal with a drop from the on-site Meredith Wines cellar door.

    Can’t make it for Ballarat Craft + Design Week? Time this itinerary for the annual Ballarat Heritage Weekend, returning 21-24 May, or the magical Ballarat Winter Festival, 27 June – 19 July. Start planning at visitballarat.com.au.