5 heavenly reasons to travel for cheese

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How far would you travel for oozy brie, sizzling haloumi or fourth-generation cheddar? These cheese restaurants, shops and cafes are seriously worth a dairy day-trip.

1. Melbourne’s fab fromage trio

Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder is one of the most authentic fromageries around, stocking a pungent variation of European stars such as the soft Langres (from the Champagne region).

 

Bespoke picnic cheese hampers are a great idea and for the devotees its Cheese Club sends your favourites straight to your door. (48-50 Bridge Road, Richmond).

 

La Latteria in Carlton is mozzarella central – the fiore di burrata and buffalo are worth the trip alone. There’s an abundance of (daily) hand-stretched fresh cheeses; the likes of the versatile baby smoked provolina is a good starting point. (104 Elgin Street, Carlton).

 

Milk The Cow has been around for a few years now and the specialist (and importantly) licensed fromagerie on St Kilda’s trendy Fitzroy Street is well on its way to becoming a Melbourne classic. 150 cheeses enough for you? And every one with a story to tell. (157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda)

2. Tassie’s cheese islands

Forty-five minutes by boat south-east of Hobart takes you to foodie oasis Bruny Island, where you will find local producer Bruny Island Cheese Company.

 

Among the eight varieties (plus cheesecake) made by Nick Haddow and his team is the awesomely oozy brie ‘Saint’.

 

Inevitably, while you’re on Bruny, you’ll gravitate towards the most southerly winery in Australia, Bruny Island Premium Wines, too.

 

On an isle off the arguably even more isolated north-west coast of Tassie is Australian cheese-making institution King Island Dairy. Its cheese shop has plenty of tasters, but you may want to start with the delectable double brie.

 

Once you’ve had your fill of cheese, it’s time to explore the other fresh produce opportunities on King Island, from its heavenly crustaceans, king crabs to crays, to the slightly more challenging kelp chutney.

 

Back on the Tassie mainland, there are a plethora of cheesy choices. Where to start?

 

The Holy Cow Café on the grounds of this country’s oldest producer, Pyengana Dairy Company (in the north-east) is as good a place as any, for its fourth-generation cloth-bound cheddar and cheese toasties with a twist.

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3. Valley of the Kings

In the middle of Victoria’s King Valley gourmet belt, among local stores, farm gates and just around the corner from Brown Brothers vineyard, is the former butter factory, which is now thankfully Milawa Cheese Company.

 

The cheeses from this rather large producer on the cusp of the High Country are simply delicious; start with the subtle flavours of washed-rind King River Gold, and move on to eight more cow cheeses and six goat cheeses, maybe the Mount Buffalo Blue, if blue is you.

 

For cheese disciples, there are cheese-making courses and you can even pre-order your cheese ‘wedding cake’.

 

Round off your visit with a Milawa Blue pizza (prosciutto, pumpkin, fig & pistachio paste) from the restaurant. (Factory Road, Milawa)

4. This Kangaroo prefers ewe

Kangaroo Island producers have a reputation for doing things their own way and none more so than Island Pure Sheep Dairy.

 

Just a hop, skip and a 10-kilometre drive from KI’s largest settlement, Kingscote, this dairy is all about the sheep, proudly embracing the Spanish proverb: ‘Cheese from the ewe, milk from the goat, butter from the cow’.

 

You can meet the dairy’s 1200 grain-fed ‘girls’ on your visit and, of course, gorge on the ewe-milk cheeses, from feta to kefalotiri.

 

Island Pure’s fresher than fresh yogurt is also worth leaving space for – both in your stomach and car boot.

 

Watch the process of hand making labneh or ricotta, then take a wander down to the banks of the Cygnet River to walk off your rampant sampling.

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5. The Stinking Bishops

Boutique cheese bar The Stinking Bishops in Sydney’s bo-ho hub Newtown certainly knows how to put a cheese board together.

 

There is a strong representation of artisanal Australians as well, as French, Italian and UK varieties, among its 40-plus-cheese fromagerie. But the Bishop is no one-food-group pony.

 

There are also cured meat boards, ploughman’s lunches, mac ‘n’ cheese, house-pickled mussels plus more substantial dishes, such as the whole roasted spitchcock, served at lunch and dinner.

 

Beware, the Euro bread here is more than moreish.

 

And, naturally, you can choose from a rustic list of wines, beers and whisky too.

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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise. Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar, located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.