Australia’s Greatest Engineering Marvels

hero media
Who better to lead us on a historical romp through some of Australia’s grandest feats of design, architecture and engineering than Rod Eime, a man who scaled Sydney Harbour Bridge some 13 years before it was legal to do so?

Sydney Opera House

What does the Sydney Opera House have in common with the Giza Necropolis and Stonehenge? Budget overruns? Political infighting? Possibly, but most certainly these three structures are UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites signifying architectural and man-made masterpieces.

 

The then 38-year-old Danish architect Jørn Utzon won his eighth architectural prize with the awarding of the SOH contract in 1957. But his designs were so futuristic and outlandish that none of the prior seven had ever been built – and by the time Utzon moved his office to Sydney in 1963, he’d begun to wish this one hadn’t either. By 1961, two years after commencement, the project was already a year behind schedule.

 

The concept of a large, multi-purpose venue was lobbied for as far back as the 1940s and finally approved in 1954. But, after much debate, the Cahill (Labor) government wanted an urgent start to bolster public opinion and insisted the project begin even before crucial designs were formalised. A change in government in 1965 to Liberal brought even more tension and Utzon finally resigned in early 1966 amid controversy.

 

When formally opened in 1973 by Queen EII, Utzon’s name wasn’t even mentioned. “A triumph of homegrown mediocrity over foreign genius," wrote Elizabeth Farrelly, Australian architecture critic, in December 2008. Check out www.sydneyoperahouse.com for tours and more info.

Did you know?

The first performance in the (then incomplete) Opera House was by Paul Robeson in 1960, when he gave an impromptu recital in his rich baritone to construction workers onsite.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

It was the famous convict architect Francis Greenway who first proposed a bridge across Port Jackson in 1815. Unsurprisingly, nearly a century passed before a workable plan was devised, and in 1916 John Bradfield’s famous coathanger design was formally accepted. WWI interrupted construction, and 799 homes and a high school were demolished in 1923 to make way for the pylons and approaches.

 

Over the ensuing nine years, six million rivets, 52,800 tonnes of steel and 45,000 tons of Moruya granite were used to complete what would become Sydney’s tallest structure, at 134m, until surpassed by Australia Square in 1967.

 

Dramatic images of workers suspended over the harbour show the precarious working conditions and lack of safety, and while 16 workers died during construction, only two fell into the water below. The sole worker to survive this was an Irishman, Vincent Kelly, who landed feet first with his hands protecting his head – although urban legend has him dropping his tool belt/spanner/hammer to “break" his fall. He was back at work after six weeks of recovery.

 

The opening on March 19, 1932, will always be remembered thanks to sword-wielding right wing extremist Francis de Groot’s upstaging of Labour Premier Lang’s ribbon cutting. Visit www.bridgeclimb.com for more info.

Did you know?

Before the official Bridge-Climb was established in 1998, illegal climbers would access the inside of the lower arch and exit via a manhole at the top. This writer climbed the bridge that way in January 1985.

The Collins Class Submarine

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Collins class submarine

Australia’s grand plan to build its own submarines turned out to be one of the most controversial and expensive defense exercises ever. Planning for the replacement of our aging but much-loved ’60s-era Oberon-class vessels began in the 1970s and, for better or worse, it was decided to build them in Port Adelaide.

 

Our unhappy preoccupation with Scandinavian design led to the acceptance of a Swedish proposal, and work on the Australian Submarine Corporation construction facility began in 1987. Sixteen years and $5 billion later, HMAS Rankin, the last of six submarines, was delivered, each one on average two years late. At that rate, it would have taken Germany 2700 years to build the fleet of more than 1000 U-Boats they launched during WWII.

 

Critics of the Australian subs were vociferous, homing in on their noisy underwater signature, budget overruns, construction, design and engine issues and now crew shortages. As of January 2010, we had only one vessel ready to put to sea. A replacement project for the Collins class was begun in 2007.

 

Navy buffs will have to wait until 2025 to see a Collins in a museum, but our Oberons can be visited. One (HMAS Onslow) is floating at Sydney’s Maritime Museum, while another is dry-docked in Fremantle (HMAS Ovens). The land-locked sub in Holbrook NSW (HMAS Otway) is just a shell, and the rusting hulk in Victoria’s Westernport Bay (HMAS Otama) was passed in on eBay. Check out www.asc.com.au for more info.

Did you know?

The Collins, like most modern subs, travels twice as fast (21 knots) underwater as it does on the surface and can dive to 180m on a good day.

Ord River Irrigation Scheme

Since 1879, vast tracts of Australia’s northwest both attracted and punished the pioneers and cattlemen who sought to tame it. The extremes of wet and dry alternated between plenty and nothing. It never rained; it poured. Plans for dams, experimental farms and irrigated pastures were trialled as early as the 1920s but it wasn’t until 1963 that construction began on a large-scale dam to enclose the waters of the Ord River. PM Billy McMahon opened the scheme in 1972 to great fanfare. Unfortunately, the planned rice crops only fed the flocks of ravenous magpie geese, while the much-vaunted cotton plantations were annihilated by the bulletproof Heliothis moth. Researchers are developing a pest-resistant cotton plant that may be re-introduced.

 

Today the 117km2 area of farmland produces viable crops of fruit, vegetables and Indian sandalwood. There are plans to expand this area to more than 400km2. Lake Argyle has also created a useful sanctuary for 26 species of native fish, including the evocatively named Sooty Grunter and legendary Barramundi. However, the recent cane toad invasion is being monitored cautiously. Check out www.lakeargyle.com.au for more.

Did you know?

The volume of water in Lake Argyle exceeds 10 million cubic metres; nine times that of Sydney Harbour. Warragamba, by comparison, holds less than half that of Lake Argyle when full.


Adelaide to Darwin Railway

The idea of a railway from Adelaide to Darwin was first floated in 1858 and by 1878 the first sods of earth were turned. On February 4, 2004, the first train rolled into Darwin. This relaxed pace of construction requires some explanation.

 

The first southerly section to Alice Springs following the original route of John McDouall Stuart was completed in 1929, then abandoned in 1980 when the old narrow-gauge line was falling apart. The northerly section got as far as Birdum, 317 old miles from Darwin, leaving wartime truck convoys to make a 12-day, 2000km roundtrip delivering urgent material.

 

The Adelaide to Alice section was realigned and completely rebuilt in 1980; the northern section ground to a permanent halt in 1976. Today the Ghan is a modern standard gauge railway of just under 3000km, taking 54hrs at 85km/h, including stops. The old sections can still be seen and some of the old infrastructure is still preserved, although the old tracks have long since been removed. A drive along the old Oodnadatta Track takes in many of these sites and the Ghan Preservation Society runs occasional trips on a restored section out of Alice Springs. See www.gsr.com.au for more info.

Did you know?

Instead of spacing sleepers at 670mm on the Ghan, the new concrete, termite-proof ones were spaced at 720mm, saving 150,000 units and pots of money.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

Kalgoorlie Super Pit

Famous for big holes, the Kalgoorlie Super Pit was the brainchild of renowned gold digger Alan Bond. In the 1980s, Bond was busy buying out all the minor leases on The Golden Mile, the original site of Paddy Hannan’s discovery in 1893. Bond figured that the best way to get the gold out was to combine all the struggling little mines into one big one and dig like crazy. Unfortunately, Bond had dug himself into other holes he couldn’t get out of and the project was completed by a new company, Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines (KCGM) in 1989.

 

The Fimiston Open Pit (aka “Super Pit"), Kalgoorlie-Boulder’s famous landmark, will eventually stretch 3.8km long, 1.5km wide and go down more than 600m. Yes, you can see it from space, but from the public lookout you can see the massive CAT 793 mining trucks hauling 225 tonnes of rock and ore per load. These beasts have 16-cylinder, 85litre quadruple turbo-charged diesel engines and many are driven by women. How come? Girls are believed to be gentler on the machinery and less prone to recklessness. Check out www.superpit.com.au for regular tours and more info.

Did you know?

The Super Pit operates around the clock every day of the year to produce almost 30 tonnes of gold annually. Regular tours are conducted by Finders Keepers in Boulder. Blasting occurs at 1pm daily.

West Coast Wilderness Railway

They said it couldn’t be done. The weather was foul, the terrain impossible, the loads unmanageable and the technology non-existent. Such was the assessment by numerous contemporary surveyors on the task of transporting gold and copper from the mine at Queenstown to the port at Strahan. Yet despite these discouraging reports, the Mount Lyell Mining and Railway Company was formed in 1893, determined to extract their rich lode of copper, silver and gold and get it to market or go bust trying.

 

Company engineer Frederick A Cutten boldly proposed a new and unfamiliar railway system just introduced in Europe; the Abt rack and cog mechanism. Their backs to the wall, the company backed Cutten and the rest is history. It took two and a half years to hack the track out of the mountains, but the triumphant little railway operated until 1963 when a road was finally built and the infrastructure removed.

 

In 2002, reconstruction of the railway as a tourism project was completed to compensate for the loss of the mine and shelving of the Franklin Dam. Original, century-old, Scottish-built engines were restored and the line and buildings replaced almost exactly to original surveyors’ plans. Acquired by Tasmanian hoteliers The Federal Group, the new railway runs daily all year round. See www.puretasmania.com.au for more info.

Did you know?

The Mt Lyell Railway engines hauled loads up a 1 in 16 (6.25 percent) gradient, operated by a cylinder driving a toothed cog meshing with a centre rack. Typically, a 1 in 20 (five percent) gradient was a workable limit for regular locomotives.


Snowy Mountains Scheme

It’s the big one. A quarter of a century in the making, more than 100,000 people from 30 countries worked on the scheme, with nearly 8000 on the job at any one time. At a final cost of $820 million, this gigantic project of 16 dams, seven power stations and 225km of tunnels and aqueducts actually came in on time and on budget.

 

Begun in 1949 with a workforce of mainly European refugees and immigrants, the project was hailed around the world as a monument to civil engineering, multi-cultural cooperation and political efficiency. Recent re-examination of the aftermath has revealed severe environmental concerns for the Snowy River and its knock-on effects for the Murray-Darling Basin, due to the almost complete blockage of the host river’s normal flow.

 

The Snowy Mountains Scheme is undergoing a seven-year, $400m upgrading and modernisation project. This includes the completion of a spillway upgrade to facilitate environmental flows. Check out www.snowyhydro.com.au for more info.

Did you know?

The scheme provides 2100 gigalitres of irrigation water yearly, nearly 4000 megawatts of renewable electricity and covers an area of over 5000km2. Only 2% of the infrastructure is aboveground. Snowy Mountain engineers also perfected the Rock Bolt, a tension bolt that, when inserted upward into the rock, created a self-supporting arch structure.

Australian Traveller

Australian Traveller

View profile and articles
hero media

Two of the best festivals are coming to Ballarat: here’s how to plan for them

(Credit: Tony Evans)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Come for a couple of unmissable festivals, stay for a long, leisurely weekend of wining, dining and exploring all the heritage-rich glory Ballarat has to offer.

    Far from a sleepy town, the historic city of Ballarat is an unexpectedly vibrant cultural and culinary destination. Year-round, it hosts a roster of events and experiences – including the upcoming Ballarat Heritage Festival, a celebration of the city’s past, and the new Ballarat Craft and Design Week, a must for fans of all things handmade and thoughtfully designed.

    Beyond the festivals, there’s a bevy of things to see, do, eat and drink – making a weekend in Ballarat an absolute no-brainer.

    Plus, just 90 minutes away from Melbourne by car along the Western Freeway or an easy train ride from Southern Cross, getting here is simple and stress-free.

    Day 1

    Morning

    Perridak Arts ballarat
    Peruse works by local First Nations artists at Perridak Arts. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Start your Ballarat jaunt at Johnny Alloo, a beautifully restored cafe harking back to the 1870s with original details and contemporary touches. Order a seasonal plate from the all-day brunch menu alongside a cleverly reimagined ‘cup of tea’ – the cafe’s very own Earl Grey-infused early bird spritz.

    Next, head to Perridak Arts, a First Nations-owned and operated gallery filled with powerful works by local First Nations artists. Your next stop is Hop Lane, an alleyway crowned by a floating canopy of technicoloured umbrellas and centred on Hop Queen, a striking mural of a commanding female figure.

    Afternoon

    The Pottage ballarat
    Create your own artworks at The Pottage. (Credit: Mass Motion)

    Cobb’s Coffee is a firm favourite for consistently good coffee and thoughtful food, making it a solid lunch spot. The cafe’s signature sandwiches and toasties are well worth trying as you take in the heritage surrounds.

    While away your afternoon at The Pottage, where Ballarat ceramicist and social media favourite Shelby Sherritt has just moved into brand-new digs. Try a throwing workshop, or pick a piece of pottery to paint from the extensive collection (the team will post it to you once it’s fired).

    Now it’s time to check into Hotel Vera, the newest boutique accommodation in the city’s already-impressive line-up. The hotel presents a modern spin on Ballarat’s gold rush-era past – think design-led rooms, gold detailing and a curated art collection. There are only seven suites, each as beautifully finished as the next, with high-quality linens and plush furnishings.

    Evening

    Babae hotel vera ballarat
    Sit down to a seven-course feast at Babae. (Credit: Einwick)

    Treat yourself to a pre-dinner drink at Grainery Lane. The saloon-style bar has rich, period-inspired decor (including an original bar top sourced from Chicago) and drinks reminiscent of 1900s classics, crafted with local ingredients.

    Head back to Hotel Vera for a seven-course feast at Babae. This intimate dining room serves up a refined, ever-evolving menu made with exceptional produce and is a truly memorable experience.

    Day 2

    Spencer & Nick Ballarat Craft and Design Week
    Spend the day at Ballarat Craft and Design Week. (Credit: Klapper Films)

    Linger over a slow breakfast at Hotel Vera. You’ll graze your way through a spread of locally sourced treats, from toasted granola and pastries to seasonal fruit, and will need a strong coffee before a busy day at the main event: Ballarat Craft and Design Week.

    This year marks the event’s inauguration, a celebration of artists, makers, designers and manufacturers. It’s a testament to Ballarat’s position as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art.

    The festival features a thoughtfully curated roster of events and activities, including free talks, hands-on workshops where you can craft your own keepsake, displays, studio tours and more. The central theme is Bound, with a flagship exhibition hosted in Ballarat’s grand and iconic Mining Exchange. The exhibition brings together five immersive projects designed to be touched, explored and experienced.

    Afternoon

    Pancho ballarat
    Discuss your favourite artworks over lunch at Pancho. (Credit Einwick)

    The Craft and Design program continues at The Unicorn Collection. The gallery is hosting Why Are You Here?, an installation presented by artists from the community that centres on the meaning of Ballarat as home.

    Recharge with lunch at Pancho, which turns out vibrant food from across Central and South America. Make sure to order from the specials board, often featuring dishes from more far-flung locations.

    For a top-up of local craftsmanship, a visit to Wootten is a must. This workshop and retail space is a Ballarat institution, making and selling made-to-order and customised footwear alongside a selection of handcrafted leather goods.

    Evening

    Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets contain incredible dining options. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Book a table at Mr Jones, headed by chef Damian Jones, who’s worked in Michelin-Starred restaurants around the globe. The modern Asian menu changes weekly, but you can always expect the very best ingredients cooked with precision and restraint.

    Finish off your day of art and exploration with a nightcap (and maybe a cheeky late-night snack) at Renard. This intimate and atmospheric cocktail bar does clever drinks alongside French-leaning small plates – we love the smoked trout pate and goat’s cheese doughnuts.

    Day 3

    Morning

    Black Cat Truffles
    Stop into Black Cat Truffles before heading home. (Credit Einwick)

    It’s your final morning in Ballarat (that is, until you inevitably return), so it’s worth making it an unhurried one. Turret Cafe is your best bet for a relaxed and satisfying breakfast, with a produce-driven all-day menu and excellent coffee inside a character-filled setting.

    A wander around the leafy Ballarat Botanical Gardens, followed by an excursion to Ross Creek Gallery, is the ideal way to stretch your legs after your morning feast. The gardens are replete with seasonal flower displays and heritage-listed trees, while the gallery is hosting a group exhibition centred on printmakers from across the region as part of Craft and Design Week.

    Farewell your weekend escape – and fuel up for the journey home – at Black Cat Truffles. True to its name, the restaurant serves truffle-infused dishes (alongside regular fare) and the surrounding farm hosts truffle hunts and experiences. Pair your meal with a drop from the on-site Meredith Wines cellar door.

    Can’t make it for Ballarat Craft + Design Week? Time this itinerary for the annual Ballarat Heritage Weekend, returning 21-24 May, or the magical Ballarat Winter Festival, 27 June – 19 July. Start planning at visitballarat.com.au.