Australia’s Oldest Holiday

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In a victory for the history buffs, David Whitley indulges in a spot of armchair time travelling to track down the most ancient wonders of modern Australia.

The British have a standard joke designed to get right under the skin of all Australians, one that gets wheeled out in times of need and dire cricketing capitulations. It goes a little like this: “What’s the difference between Australia and a tub of yoghurt?"

 

The answer, of course, is that if you leave yoghurt alone long enough, it will eventually develop a culture. It’s a none-too-subtle dig at Australia’s lack of history, and, as with many none-too-subtle digs, it’s not entirely fair. The country is brimming with historic sites, some a lot older than you’d think . . .

Oldest city

Sydney may be still regarded as a young whippersnapper, but it actually predates the likes of Washington DC, Singapore, Toronto and Johannesburg. Founded in 1788 by Governor Arthur Philip’s First Fleet of convicts, the original settlement was in the area on the harbour now known as The Rocks. Many of the historic sites in what is now the tourist heart of the city are covered and explained by The Rocks Walking Tour. (02) 9247 6678, www.rockswalkingtours.com.au

Oldest tourist attraction

The Jenolan Caves in NSW’s Blue Mountains region have been attracting tourists in large numbers since the 1880s, although things were a little hairier back then. While nowadays people walk around safely in jeans and T-shirts, in the Victorian era visitors would dress up in their finest clothes and risk life and limb clambering through the caves with ropes and candles. Recent testing has revealed Jenolan’s cave system to be far more significant than previously thought, however. Using scientific techniques, the caves have been shown to be around 340 million years old, making them the oldest open caves in the world.

Oldest hotel

It seems every establishment opened before the turn of the 21st Century would like to claim this for use as a marketing gimmick, but the two with the most likely claims are both in Tasmania. First up is The Hope and Anchor (03 6236 9982, www.hopeandanchor.com.au) in Macquarie St, Hobart. It claims to have been running since 1807, and thus to be the oldest pub continually running on the same site. Others had sprung up in Sydney beforehand, but are no longer there. However, the Hope and Anchor was originally called The Whale Fishery, which leads to a rival claim from The Bush Inn (03 6261 2256) in New Norfolk. It has been continually licensed since 1825, although it was built in 1815. To keep everybody happy, why not have a thoroughly historic drink in both while the publicans solve the dispute via the time-honoured medium of arm-wrestling?

 

Playing the Ratho course at Bothwell is a challenge to say the least, mainly because of the herds of sheep roaming the fairways.

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Oldest golf course

On a private property in Tasmania’s Central Highlands lies the oldest course in the southern hemisphere. Playing the Ratho course at Bothwell is a challenge to say the least, mainly because of its square greens and herds of sheep roaming the fairways. These mobile mowers are used to keep the links nicely trimmed, and golfers have been playing around them since the 1830s. The site is also home to the Australasian Golf Museum (03 6259 4033).

Oldest National Park

Only Yellowstone in the US has been designated as a National Park for longer than the Royal National Park, just south of Sydney. It was founded in 1879 with the far-sighted ideal of providing a much-needed environmental “lung" for the burgeoning NSW capital. Though regularly scarred by bushfires over the years, it’s still a beautifully tranquil spot, as anyone who has taken the ferry across to Bundeena will happily testify. Variety is the spice of life here, with rugged coastal cliff-top walks mixing in with deep valleys, strange rock formations such as Eagle Rock, and trails through the heathlands for hikers and mountain bikers.

Oldest building

As it’s impossible to accurately date Indigenous structures, this category has to be limited to the post-European discovery era. The Old Government House in Parramatta, NSW, is certainly the oldest public building in the country, going back to 1799 – but the most ancient of all pre-dates Captain Cook. On West Wallabi Island in WA’s Houtman-Abrolhos islands are the remains of two huts and a fort. These were built by the survivors of the Batavia shipwreck, which met its unfortunate end in 1629 on the way to modern-day Jakarta. Batavia Coast Air Charter (08 9921 5168, www.abrolhosbat.com.au) runs tours of the islands from Geraldton on the mainland, and flies over the huts.

Despite much of the collection recently moving to Melbourne’s Federation Square, the original home of the National Gallery of Victoria (03 8620 2222, www.ngv.vic.gov.au) has been standing since 1861. The building on St Kilda Road is now home to the gallery’s international works of art and exhibitions. However, it would be fair to say that Australia’s oldest and most impressive art galleries are not in a building at all. Injalak Hill and Nourlangie Rock in Kakadu are home to ancient Aboriginal rock art that is thought to be many tens of thousands of years old. There are several sites, linked by a walking track, and you can roughly date some of the pictures yourself due to the appearances of sailing ships, white men and guns.

Oldest museum

Tucked in right next to Hyde Park in Sydney is The Australian Museum (02 9320 6000 or www.amonline.net.au), which was founded back in 1827. Whilst it’s not got as much of the button-pressing whiz-bang interactivity of some of its more recent rivals, it still covers a broad range of topics in fascinating detail. The stars of the show are always the temporary exhibitions, but the permanent collections have had all that time to grow into something special. Among these are displays on Indigenous culture and the Chapman Collection, an astounding treasure trove of precious minerals from around the world.

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Oldest restaurant

While the fighting to become the oldest pub is frenetic, no-one seems to want to come forward and claim the restaurant prize. As both the Hope and Anchor and Bush Inn serve food, then they’ve got a fair shout, but neither was primarily set up for dining. The Grossi Florentino (03 9662 1811, www.grossiflorentino.com ) on Bourke St, Melbourne, therefore has a very good claim. It was set up as a wine café in 1900, becoming the Café Florentino in 1926. It has changed hands and guises many times since then, but it is now firmly established as one of Melbourne’s classiest joints and produces authentic Italian recipes.

Oldest theme park

While it may have been usurped by the Gold Coast’s colossal fun factories, Melbourne’s Luna Park (03 9525 5033, www.lunapark.com.au) has become a true Australian icon since opening in 1912. The huge clown smile entrance scares as many people as it enthrals, and going inside is a little like stepping back in time to a more innocent era, where rides didn’t have to be utterly terrifying to keep people amused. But while the park is the country’s oldest, the Scenic Railway ride has a more widespread claim to fame – it’s the oldest continually operating rollercoaster in the entire world.

Oldest shops

No holiday would be complete without shelling out some cash on a shopping binge, and there are few better places to do that than the Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne. It’s both the oldest and largest market in the southern hemisphere. Trading started here in 1858, although it wasn’t officially opened until 20 years later. With hundreds of stalls, the range of what you can get here in the bracing Melbourne air is astonishing, while foodie tours are available for $28 for those who want to get more than just a taste of things (03 9320 5835 or go to www.qvm.com.au). Meanwhile, the David Jones store on George St, Sydney, is Australia’s oldest department store. What’s more, with the company dating back to 1838, it is the oldest department store in the world that still trades under its original name.

Oldest winery

The beginning stages of the Australian wine boom stretch back a little further than many would imagine. The first attempt to produce wine in the new colony came shortly after the arrival of the First Fleet, with vines being planted in Parramatta, NSW, back in 1791. The spot is still known as Vineyard Creek, although winemaking operations moved elsewhere long ago. In 1830 George Wyndham pioneered Australian Shiraz when he planted Australia’s first commercial Shiraz vineyard at Dalwood Estate in the NSW Hunter Valley, where a cellar door operates to this day (02 4938 3444, www.wyndhamestate.com). To honour George’s memorable achievements, Dalwood was renamed Wyndham Estate in 1970, a century after Wyndham’s death. But the official title of oldest winery goes to Olive Farm in WA’s Swan Valley, which has operated continuously as a winery and commercial vineyard since being established in 1829 by English botanist Thomas Waters. Today the winery is owned and run by descendents of Ivan Yurisich, a Yugoslavian immigrant who bought Olive Farm in 1933, and features an extremely modern, award-winning building set on eight acres in the heart of the Valley. (08) 9296 4539, www.olivefarmwines.com

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How to spend three romantic days on Hamilton Island

(Image: Sharyn Cairns)

From barefoot beach walks to moonlit dinners, this three-day Hamilton Island itinerary will have lovebirds swooning.

Few Aussie destinations do romance quite like Hamilton Island. Set in the dreamy Whitsunday Islands, this popular honeymoon destination combines luxury retreats, palm-fringed reefs and spectacular dining with the easy rhythm of tropical living. Whether you’re planning a honeymoon, anniversary or spontaneous couples’ weekend, here’s how to spend a loved-up three days on Hamilton Island.

Day 1

Morning

A serene ocean-view room overlooking endless blue horizons.
Let picturesque ocean views welcome you the moment you check in. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Nothing kills the holiday buzz faster than waiting at the baggage carousel. Luckily, our arrival couldn’t have been smoother. Staying at the boutique, adults-only Beach Club Hotel means VIP transfers are included, so the moment we land, a staff member greets us and whisks our bags straight from the baggage claim to our room. We don’t have to lift a finger.

Occupying a prime piece of real estate on Catseye Beach, Beach Club is a peaceful retreat just steps from sugar-white sand and a turquoise lagoon. Within 10 minutes of stepping off the plane, we’ve arrived and are switched into holiday mode.

We check into our room, immediately delighted by the sight of several wallabies grazing in the garden just in front of our private terrace. Beyond, picturesque ocean vistas stretch across the horizon. The room’s mini bar is stocked with bespoke sweet treats; the bathroom with premium Aesop amenities that add to the luxury.

After we’ve checked out the resort’s beachside infinity pool – plotting the lounge chairs we’ll no doubt return to later – we head out to explore the island. Families glide by on hire bikes and chirping rainbow lorikeets dot the foliage. We decide to hike up to Passage Peak – one of the most scenic walks on Hamilton Island – which takes about 40 minutes one way and boasts panoramic Whitsundays views that will stick with you for long after you leave.

Afternoon

A romantic beachside lunch as champagne is served.
Recharge with a laid-back lunch at Beach Club Restaurant. (Image: Nikki To)

After working up an appetite, Beach Club Restaurant is the perfect place to snap up a light lunch. Think barramundi, nourish bowls, Wagyu beef burgers, brown butter toasties and Queensland chilli prawns. For those who don’t want to move from their prime perch on the beach or by the pool, there’s also the option to order bites via QR code from the resort’s lounge chairs.

After our fill, we plunge into the hotel’s incredible infinity pool, its surface blending near seamlessly into the blues of Catseye Beach. Quiet and tucked away from the island’s hum, it feels illegal to do anything but relax here.

Evening

A curated flatlay of dishes from Catseye Pool Club.
Celebrate your first evening over beautifully plated coral trout. (Image: Nikki To)

There’s truly nothing more satisfying than a little R&R (rest & robe) time in your hotel room after spending the day in the sun. Fresh from a shower, we watch the ripe tangerine sun slowly dip below the palm-framed horizon from our plush terrace daybed. Two wallabies are still grazing on the grass. It’s a magical setting; I find it hard to believe I am only a few hours away from home.

Come dinnertime, we zip over to nearby Catseye Pool Club, which is a short buggy ride from the hotel or a five-minute walk. A chic new haunt from Sydney-based pair Josh and Julie Niland, the restaurant is all about reconnecting over flavour-rich share plates using high-quality Aussie ingredients.

We sit in a corner overlooking Catseye Beach – arguably the best seat in the house – with mini table lamps casting a soft glow about the contemporary indoor-outdoor setting. What comes next is pure delight; grilled prawns served with tumeric and lemongrass marinade, macadamia satay sauce and a Thai-leaning sour green mango salad. Then, elegantly plated coral trout served with kasundi and zucchini. We savour it all slowly, the conversation flowing easily between bites and sips while the moonlight transforms the ocean into molten silver.

Day 2

Morning

An 18-hole golf course set against sweeping ocean views.
Tee off side by side against a backdrop of sweeping ocean views. (Image: Andrea Francolini)

A la carte breakfast is complimentary for guests of Beach Club, and we take full advantage of the fact. Barista-quality coffee and pressed juice – today it’s carrot, melon, orange and pineapple – arrive alongside pastries baked fresh this morning. For the larger meal, I treat myself to the buttermilk pancakes with praline butter.

If you prefer an active start to the morning rather than lying in, you’ll find plenty of options. Perhaps tee off at the 18-hole golf course, where the views are as much of a drawcard as the sport itself. Designed by five-time British Open winner Peter Thomson, the course is integrated into the ridged landscape of Dent Island.

Afternoon

Artfully paired wines and bites from the Talk & Taste experience.
Uncover new favourite wines together. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

For wine-curious couples, Beach Club’s new Talk & Taste experience is a must. Held several times a week for up to eight guests, it’s an intimate tasting of Aussie drops paired with curated bites – all guided by Bommie Assistant Manager and wine enthusiast Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher.

We opt for the white wine and seafood option, enjoying pours from Eden Valley to Launceston while Courtenay shares her knowledge and passion for the intricacies of wine making.

Later, we drive our golf buggy up to One Tree Hill. This is one of the most popular spots on the island for sunset, but we chose to come a little earlier so we have more space to ourselves. We enjoy afternoon wine and cheese, admiring the 360-degree views of the island and its impossibly blue waters.

Evening

The moody, atmospheric interiors of Bommie Deck.
Dress up for a romantic evening at Bommie Restaurant. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Since we are, after all, on holiday, we continue the tipples at Bommie Deck. Suspended above Hamilton Island’s marina, this architectural monument is a fabulous place for a sunset spritz.

Just a few steps inside is Bommie Restaurant, the contemporary Australian fine dining establishment headed by chef Ryan Locke. Of anywhere on the island, this is the place to frock up and celebrate a special occasion – especially if theatrical culinary experiences take your fancy. The tasting set menu is a whirlwind of native Australian flavours and creative plating – with highlights including the cured venison wrapped in wattle seed seasoning. For dessert, a clever take on white chocolate and lemonade ends the night on a high.

Day 3

Morning

A couple gliding across calm waters on SUP boards together.
Ease into the morning with a paddleboarding adventure. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Another low-key morning means another blissful breakfast at Beach Club. This time, it’s smashed avo toast topped with Persian fetta, dukkah and poached eggs – a deliciously fueling start to the day.

The weather today is perfect for a paddle, so we walk straight from our room onto the sand of Catseye Beach to pick up some SUP boards. Guests of Beach Club receive complimentary non-motorised water sports equipment, spanning everything from mini catamarans to snorkel gear and kayaks. Finding our balance on the boards is a fun challenge at first, but before long, we’re gliding across the glassy water like naturals.

Afternoon

A helicopter soaring above the iconic Heart Reef.
Add the ultimate highlight with a Heart Reef flight together. (Image: Hamilton Island)

No couples’ retreat is complete without a touch of pampering. Located in the resort area, Spa Wumurdaylin offers everything from body wraps and facials to de-stress massages using natural Australian products. The Soul Temple treatment begins with a heavenly feeling sugar scrub, followed by a Vichy vertical shower and underwater massage. I leave in a daze.

If you prefer adventure to relaxation, there is an abundance of day trips from Hamilton Island, from snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef to Whitsundays helicopter tours – all of which make for unforgettable experiences that will bring you and your partner closer.

Evening

A couple standing at qualia, gazing out over the endless ocean horizon.
Close your journey over a beautiful dinner by the sea. (Image: Sharyn Cains)

Enjoy an elevated evening at qualia’s tranquil Pebble Beach restaurant, where a private beach setting complements the thoughtful, seasonal menu. Or perhaps continue relaxing at Beach Club, feasting on roast lamb and seafood at the poolside restaurant or soaking in ocean views from your room with in-house room delivery. And don’t forget the champagne – a weekend of love, fun and restoration is worth toasting.

Getting there

Hamilton Island has its own airport called the Great Barrier Reef Airport, which makes it fuss-free to get to. Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar offer short, direct flights from most major Australian cities, including Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne and Cairns. This means you’ll spend less time travelling and more time enjoying each other’s company.

Visit hamitlonisland.com.au for more couples’ retreat ideas.