Bushrangers today, eh?

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Over a friendly meal with a wandering yarn-spinner, Peter Russell-Clarke learns that the days of the outback outlaw are far from over. They’ve just lowered their sights a little.

I often think about Mad Mac. Sean Macintosh of the Outback was one of those unforgettable rogues. Loveable, but . . . well, different. But then again so were (and still are) quite a few of the outback characters.

Bobby One Leg for instance. He couldn’t read, yet could recite the poem The Highwayman flawlessly. “The road was a ribbon of moonlight across the purple moor," he’d intone like an Aussie Laurence Olivier. “The highwayman came riding, riding up to the old inn door."

Then there was Charlie Chop Chop, the Chinese cook who could disguise anything under a wok full of cabbage and water chestnuts. There was Ron the Roo Shooter, who compiled an Aussie Outback Dictionary that he tried to have translated into Japanese in case the lads from Nippon decided to have another crack at taking over the joint. And there was Shirley Temple, the horse breaker. And Jumping Jill, the highway prostitute. They all have fascinating yarns to tell but, in truth, their stories pale into insignificance compared to the stories of their own lives.

But one of the most interesting characters I’ve ever come across was Perc. I didn’t believe the old bushy for a moment, but I had to admit he was entertaining. “My Dad’s great uncle was Ned Kelly’s cook," he once told me, nodding solemnly. “He was never given credit for keeping the Kelly boys healthy, but without old Claude keeping them regular, goodness knows what sort of mess they would’ve been in.

“Ya see, Ned and his gang couldn’t be stopping any old time for nature’s call, could they?" I nodded that I indeed agreed that they couldn’t. But I confess I wasn’t sure what he meant. “Imagine trying to squat with the weight of that armour draped over ya," Perc continued. I hoped he wasn’t going to detail what I now perceived were the regular functions he was alluding to.

“Of course, Claude the cook had designed his armour to be more functional than Ned’s," said Perc. “Instead of plough shields, his armour was his woodfired stove – one of them ones with doors for the ovens and firebox and such. He’d put his stove on whenever armour was needed, an’ when he wanted a pee he’d simply open the appropriate door and he was away. At mealtimes he discarded the stove, reassembled it, lit the fire and cooked their grub. As long as they didn’t have to move quickly, everything was hunky-dory."

 

I met Perc at a stopover on the Hume Highway just up the road from Holbrook in south central NSW. I was travelling through to Wagga, then planned to drive across to the Alice and up to Tennant Creek in my trusty motorhome. Perc was towing one of those collapsible tent-trailers with the bed that pops out the back. I’d stopped for a cup of green tea. Perc had stopped because he wanted to stop.

“I often drive around Ned’s old territory," Perc confided. “Even cook some of old Claude’s recipes. Ya know, Ned Kelly was a beekeeper at one stage. That’s why he moved around a lot. And, of course, why Claude used honey so much."

I confessed that I hadn’t known, but was intrigued – why did it mean Ned had to move from place to place?

“Well, he had to follow the honey flow, mate. Wherever the blossom was flowering, the bees needed to be right there and right on time, otherwise the bees starved and Ned got no honey."

“Okay," I said, pouring Perc a beer. “But if Claude wore his stove, surely all the doors were in the front. Which might be all right for No.1s, but what about No.2s? And what about his helmet? Don’t tell me he wore a saucepan; how would he see? If he’d had eyeholes, the saucepan would leak when being used for more conventional purposes."

“Claude’s cooking wasn’t conventional, mate," laughed Perc. “Far bloody from it. An’ ya see, Claude was always running away from danger, so the front of the stove was on his back region. He peed through the flu, which is at the back of the stove. An’ he didn’t need eyeholes in his helmet because, if any threat presented itself, he shut his eyes tight and took off."

I thought all that through as I poured us both another beer. “Have ya got a red?" asked Perc shyly. “Shiraz f’preference. I’m not big on Pinot Noir. More a sheilas’ drink, eh?"

By now the sun had danced down behind red river gums, which stood sentinel at the end of a billabong in a paddock between us and the river. I’d made some tabouli, which I was thinking of having with a few falafel and hummus. “Would you like to join me?" I asked Perc.

“Bloody oath, mate, whatever it is. An’ I’ve got a coupla chops and some spuds. Ned loved lamb – it was plentiful from over any fence – and spuds were a must for a growing Irish lad."

And so it happened. The next day we parted after muesli for me and bacon and eggs for Perc. I took my time tidying and stowing away, all the while grinning over Perc and his Kelly yarns. But as I pulled out of the stopover, a police car drew alongside and indicated that I stop. I did.

“G’day, mate," growled a broad-shouldered copper. “Have you seen a little bloke driving an old Holden Ute towing a campervan?"

“What’s he done?" I asked.

“He’s like a bloody gypsy, the little bugger. Nicks hubcaps and spare wheels and anything else not tied down. I see you’ve got no hubcaps, so I thought you might’ve met up with him."

 

It was years later that I read about Perc’s death. I was camping by a billabong at Talmalmo, just down from Jingellic. I was reading the local paper. Perc had been arrested for robbery – convicted – but died of a heart attack on his way to the lock-up. Unlike Ned, he beat the gallows.

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Why this luxurious Broome resort is the ultimate stay

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    With its prime position on one of Australia’s most iconic beaches, lush tropical surrounds and exceptional dining, wellness and leisure experiences, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa is the perfect base for exploring the spectacular Kimberley region.

    For many travellers, Broome is the gateway to the wild grandeur of the Kimberley – a launch point for epic 4WD journeys along the legendary Gibb River Road, rugged outback tours and expedition cruises tracing the remote coastline. Whether you’re arriving dust-covered from the red dirt or preparing to venture deep into the region’s untamed landscapes, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa offers the perfect place to begin or end the adventure. The only fully integrated resort in Broome, the property unfolds along meandering pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens, past tranquil lily ponds and hand-carved timber sculptures that subtly guide guests towards reception.

    Location

    camel ride along cable beach broome
    Let friendly staff help you book a camel ride on Cable Beach. (Credit: Tourism WA/ Matt Deakin)

    Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa lies just steps from the famed Cable Beach, where the silhouettes of camels crossing the shoreline at sunset have become one of Australia’s most enduring tourism images. The only beachfront resort in Broome, it’s also just a few minutes’ drive to the centre of town, where guests can wander through Chinatown and peruse its pearl stores and galleries or catch a movie beneath the stars at the heritage-listed Sun Pictures.

    The friendly team at the resort’s tour desk can also help tailor your stay, whether that’s an iconic camel ride along the beach, a visit to Willie Creek Pearl Farm to discover how the gems are harvested or a guided tour to see the ancient dinosaur footprints revealed among the rust-red rocks of Gantheaume Point at low tide.

    Style and character

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome lobby
    Walk into an eclectic blend of influences and eras.

    Few resorts capture the essence of their surroundings quite like Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa. First opened in 1988, the resort is a celebration of Broome’s rich multicultural past, from its Japanese pearl divers to Chinese merchants. The result is an eclectic blend of influences and eras. The resort features wide timber verandahs, corrugated iron walls and tin roofs designed to temper the tropical climate. To keep it breezy, Broome’s signature lattice (a distinct painted timber lattice detailing iconic to the tropical architecture of the Kimberley region) has been used across the resort with two functions – allowing a breeze through while maintaining privacy.

    Scattered throughout the manicured gardens is an impressive collection of rare Asian and international artefacts. Chinese bluestone lions stand sentinel at the entrance, while terracotta warrior horses, vermillion Japanese torii gates and traditional Shishi (lion-dog) statues lend an air of quiet grandeur. Fragrant with frangipani blossoms and shaded by century-old boab and mango trees, the grounds are also a haven for native wildlife. Birds provide a constant soundtrack, while wallabies and tiny lizards rustle through the foliage.

    Rooms

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome Price Jones Suite
    Sleep in comfort and style.

    The extensive accommodation options span studios, bungalows, club apartments, villas and suites. Family bungalows draw inspiration from the grand homes of Broome’s pearl masters, translating that heritage into generous layouts, high ceilings and verandahs that open to the gardens. Studios and villas are perfect for couples and solo stays, pairing soft coastal tones with private balconies or courtyards. While club apartments and suites are designed for longer stays, offering multiple bedrooms, kitchen facilities and seamless indoor-outdoor living.

    Food and drink

    kichi kichi at Cable Beach Club Resort broome
    Tuck into an Asian fusion menu at Kichi Kichi.

    The dining scene at Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa reflects Broome’s position at the crossroads of the Indian Ocean and Asia, where coastal produce meets a tapestry of multicultural influences.

    Contemporary Asian fusion dishes – from crisp fried pork belly and roast Peking duck breast to Burmese lamb curry – deliver bold, vibrant flavours at Kichi Kichi. While the handmade tortellini filled with pearl meat and prawn served at atmospheric Italian restaurant, Cichetti, is the kind of dish that you will remember long after the final bite. Elsewhere on the menu, find effortless flair across dishes like Wedge Island octopus, market fish crudo and silky goat’s milk panna cotta.

    As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, Sunset Bar & Grill becomes the place to be. Here, guests gather over freshly shucked oysters, cured meat platters and buckets of sweet Exmouth prawns. Or, for a quieter evening in, guests can retreat to the comfort of their room and order from Cable Eats, the resort’s in-room dining service.

    Pools

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome ocean pool
    Relax by the adults-only Ocean Pool.

    Two distinct pool settings invite guests to shape their day exactly as they please. Drift into the calm of the adults-only Ocean Pool, where attentive service delivers dishes such as grilled prawn skewers and salt-and-pepper calamari straight to your cabana or sunbed well into the afternoon.

    The mood at the family-friendly Kimberley Pool – framed by a cascading waterfall, the heart of the resort’s recreational precinct – is decidedly more playful. Here, younger guests are catered for with a dedicated kids’ menu of familiar favourites including chicken nuggets, fish and chips and ham-and-cheese toasties, while parents can graze on more refined poolside fare, such as fried squid, soba noodle salad and gourmet burgers.

    Chahoya Spa & Salon

    Cable Beach Club Resort broome Chahoya Spa
    Book a treatment at Chahoya Spa.

    Chahoya Spa brings a refined sense of indulgence inspired by its Japanese name, meaning “pamper”, with signature treatments including the Kimberley Dreamtime ritual and Chahoya Pearl Massage designed to soothe tired bodies and quiet busy minds. There is also an on-site salon providing personalised cuts, colour services and restorative hair care, ensuring guests leave feeling polished and renewed.

    Other facilities

    yoga class in the buddha sanctuary at Cable Beach Club Resort broome
    Join a yoga class at the Buddha Sanctuary.

    Wellness continues at the Buddha Sanctuary, a serene open-air pavilion just beyond the main resort grounds, where yoga classes are held six days a week amid ornamental gardens and a striking 3.5-metre hand-carved crystal Buddha statue. Beyond the sanctuary, the resort caters to every pace of stay, with a children’s playground, mini golf, tennis courts and a fully-equipped gym. Guests can also browse the resort’s boutique gift shop, home to Allure South Sea Pearls – the brand behind Broome’s first dedicated pearl boutique in Chinatown.

    Book the ultimate Broome getaway at cablebeachclub.com.