Bushrangers today, eh?

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Over a friendly meal with a wandering yarn-spinner, Peter Russell-Clarke learns that the days of the outback outlaw are far from over. They’ve just lowered their sights a little.

I often think about Mad Mac. Sean Macintosh of the Outback was one of those unforgettable rogues. Loveable, but . . . well, different. But then again so were (and still are) quite a few of the outback characters.

Bobby One Leg for instance. He couldn’t read, yet could recite the poem The Highwayman flawlessly. “The road was a ribbon of moonlight across the purple moor," he’d intone like an Aussie Laurence Olivier. “The highwayman came riding, riding up to the old inn door."

Then there was Charlie Chop Chop, the Chinese cook who could disguise anything under a wok full of cabbage and water chestnuts. There was Ron the Roo Shooter, who compiled an Aussie Outback Dictionary that he tried to have translated into Japanese in case the lads from Nippon decided to have another crack at taking over the joint. And there was Shirley Temple, the horse breaker. And Jumping Jill, the highway prostitute. They all have fascinating yarns to tell but, in truth, their stories pale into insignificance compared to the stories of their own lives.

But one of the most interesting characters I’ve ever come across was Perc. I didn’t believe the old bushy for a moment, but I had to admit he was entertaining. “My Dad’s great uncle was Ned Kelly’s cook," he once told me, nodding solemnly. “He was never given credit for keeping the Kelly boys healthy, but without old Claude keeping them regular, goodness knows what sort of mess they would’ve been in.

“Ya see, Ned and his gang couldn’t be stopping any old time for nature’s call, could they?" I nodded that I indeed agreed that they couldn’t. But I confess I wasn’t sure what he meant. “Imagine trying to squat with the weight of that armour draped over ya," Perc continued. I hoped he wasn’t going to detail what I now perceived were the regular functions he was alluding to.

“Of course, Claude the cook had designed his armour to be more functional than Ned’s," said Perc. “Instead of plough shields, his armour was his woodfired stove – one of them ones with doors for the ovens and firebox and such. He’d put his stove on whenever armour was needed, an’ when he wanted a pee he’d simply open the appropriate door and he was away. At mealtimes he discarded the stove, reassembled it, lit the fire and cooked their grub. As long as they didn’t have to move quickly, everything was hunky-dory."

 

I met Perc at a stopover on the Hume Highway just up the road from Holbrook in south central NSW. I was travelling through to Wagga, then planned to drive across to the Alice and up to Tennant Creek in my trusty motorhome. Perc was towing one of those collapsible tent-trailers with the bed that pops out the back. I’d stopped for a cup of green tea. Perc had stopped because he wanted to stop.

“I often drive around Ned’s old territory," Perc confided. “Even cook some of old Claude’s recipes. Ya know, Ned Kelly was a beekeeper at one stage. That’s why he moved around a lot. And, of course, why Claude used honey so much."

I confessed that I hadn’t known, but was intrigued – why did it mean Ned had to move from place to place?

“Well, he had to follow the honey flow, mate. Wherever the blossom was flowering, the bees needed to be right there and right on time, otherwise the bees starved and Ned got no honey."

“Okay," I said, pouring Perc a beer. “But if Claude wore his stove, surely all the doors were in the front. Which might be all right for No.1s, but what about No.2s? And what about his helmet? Don’t tell me he wore a saucepan; how would he see? If he’d had eyeholes, the saucepan would leak when being used for more conventional purposes."

“Claude’s cooking wasn’t conventional, mate," laughed Perc. “Far bloody from it. An’ ya see, Claude was always running away from danger, so the front of the stove was on his back region. He peed through the flu, which is at the back of the stove. An’ he didn’t need eyeholes in his helmet because, if any threat presented itself, he shut his eyes tight and took off."

I thought all that through as I poured us both another beer. “Have ya got a red?" asked Perc shyly. “Shiraz f’preference. I’m not big on Pinot Noir. More a sheilas’ drink, eh?"

By now the sun had danced down behind red river gums, which stood sentinel at the end of a billabong in a paddock between us and the river. I’d made some tabouli, which I was thinking of having with a few falafel and hummus. “Would you like to join me?" I asked Perc.

“Bloody oath, mate, whatever it is. An’ I’ve got a coupla chops and some spuds. Ned loved lamb – it was plentiful from over any fence – and spuds were a must for a growing Irish lad."

And so it happened. The next day we parted after muesli for me and bacon and eggs for Perc. I took my time tidying and stowing away, all the while grinning over Perc and his Kelly yarns. But as I pulled out of the stopover, a police car drew alongside and indicated that I stop. I did.

“G’day, mate," growled a broad-shouldered copper. “Have you seen a little bloke driving an old Holden Ute towing a campervan?"

“What’s he done?" I asked.

“He’s like a bloody gypsy, the little bugger. Nicks hubcaps and spare wheels and anything else not tied down. I see you’ve got no hubcaps, so I thought you might’ve met up with him."

 

It was years later that I read about Perc’s death. I was camping by a billabong at Talmalmo, just down from Jingellic. I was reading the local paper. Perc had been arrested for robbery – convicted – but died of a heart attack on his way to the lock-up. Unlike Ned, he beat the gallows.

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Why Hamilton Island is perfect for multi-gen travel

Consider this your cheat sheet to holidaying on Hamilton Island with the clan.

Keeping everyone in your crew happy on holidays is no small feat. Yet ask any parent who’s been and they’ll unanimously agree Hamilton Island multi-gen travel overdelivers – for many reasons.

Taking the family to this premier island destination is a rite of passage for many Aussie parents. Not only is Hamo stuffed to the brim with fun activities to suit all ages, but it’s accessible, safe and super easy to get around thanks to its relatively small size. And I suppose the fact that it’s undeniably stunning doesn’t hurt either.

Whether you’re spending time together creating magical memories or relaxing while giving the young ones some kids’ club time, this guide breaks down everything there is to know about holidaying on Hamilton Island for families.

Getting there, and around

Hamilton Island multi-gen travel on a buggy
Hire a buggy and explore at your own pace.

The easiest and most fuss-free way to get to Hamilton Island is to fly to Great Barrier Reef Airport, located on the island. Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar offer short, direct flights from most major Australian cities, including Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne and Cairns. Alternatively, fly to Whitsunday Coast Airport (PPP) near Airlie Beach, then take a ferry from Shute Harbour with Cruise Whitsundays, which operates services daily.

Once you’re here, rental buggies make it easy to zip around from A to B (not to mention being a fun activity in themselves – the kids will love it).

Where to stay

Reef View Hotel Pool Terrace hamilton island multi-gen travel
Reef View Hotel offers pool and sea. (Credit: Kara Rosenlund)

Part of what makes Hamilton Island so appealing is its diverse range of family-friendly accommodation. Many include return airport or marina shuttles, along with complimentary use of non-motorised watersports equipment – making it easy to relax as soon as you step foot on the island.

Reef View Hotel is one of the most popular picks due to its spacious suites perfect for larger families and proximity to the island’s resort centre – a happening hub of restaurants, pools and water activities.

Meanwhile, families looking for something more self-contained can check into Palm Bungalows. Each modern bungalow is enveloped by lush tropical gardens and offers a kitchenette, bar fridge, microwave and coffee facilities – plus a private balcony for card games and evening drinks.

pool and sup boarders at The Sundays hamilton island
Take in pool and sea at The Sundays.

The Sundays is another fantastic option for families. The newest hotel on Hamilton Island, it has serious bragging rights thanks to its coastal chic design and stellar location at the end of Catseye Beach. Opt for one of the Family Connect Rooms for extra breathing room.

For that relaxed, home-away-from-home feeling, Hamilton Island Holiday Homes hit the nail on the head. Choose from more than 100 self-catering homes dotted around the island that accommodate both large groups and smaller families. From waterfront luxury to spacious villas, there’s something for everyone.

Family tip: Reef View Hotel, Palm Bungalows and The Sundays all participate in Hamilton Island’s Kids Stay Free program, earning themselves a reputation as some of the best family-friendly accommodation on Hamilton Island. No extra charge is added for up to one or two (dependent on the hotel) children under 12 who are sharing a room with parents and using existing bedding.

Where to eat

coca chu on hamilton island
Sit down to a feast at coca chu.

Hamilton Island’s foodie scene is seriously worth its salt. From just-caught seafood to family-friendly staples, even the fussiest of eaters will be satisfied.

Start at coca chu, one of the best Hamilton Island restaurants for families. Spotlighting vibrant Southeast Asian flavours, it offers a lively, high-ceiling setting overlooking Catseye Beach. Nearby is Catseye Pool Club, Josh and Julie Niland’s breezy coastal venue that’s at once elevated and laidback. Dishing up the likes of charcoal tiger prawns with lemongrass marinade and Greek-style lamb shoulder, it’s the perfect place to celebrate birthdays or milestone moments with older kids.

Got young ones who recoil at the sight of vegetables? Not to worry. Head straight to Romano’s for please-all pizza, or Marina Tavern for hearty pub classics in a relaxed atmosphere complete with an outdoor deck.

Catseye Pool Club hamilton island
Grab some tasty bites by the pool at Catseye Pool Club.

For brekkie or lunch, Bob’s Bakery is a family favourite for affordable pastries, sandwiches and pies, while Marina Cafe serves up bacon and egg rolls and salads with fresh smoothies. And Popeye’s does a mean fish and chips to go.

Sails Restaurant is the place to be for poolside bites with views of the Whitsundays’ famous turquoise waters. The kids can splash in the pool while parents sip spritzes and graze on mezze plates of za’atar pita, hummus and olives. The menu leans Mediterranean and Middle Eastern, though you’ll also find plenty of kid-friendly crowd favourites such as ham and cheese toasties. For something extra special, book in the Piper Package – expect exclusive access to a king-size sunbed with a shaded umbrella, plus a chilled bottle of Piper-Heidsieck NV Champagne and a showstopping seafood platter (I still have dreams about it).

Where to explore

hamilton island couple running on trail
Explore the island’s walking trails.

There are bucket loads of family-friendly activities on Hamilton Island that the whole clan can do together. First stop: hiring a buggy and taking your time to explore the island at your own pace. Next stop: getting active and creating memories together in the process.

One of the best activities on Hamilton Island for families is tackling one (or more) of its beautiful bush and walking trails, with the one-hour hike to Passage Peak a standout for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. Morning is a great time to go to beat the heat (and other walkers).

For the active and adventurous, the all-new E-mountain biking facilities make for an adrenaline-packed experience your teens won’t be able to stop talking about. It’s a self-guided trail taking riders to some of the island’s quietest and most scenic pockets, and the knowledgeable staff at Hamilton Island Trails HQ will fit you out with all the gear you need for a safe adventure.

E-mountain biking on hamilton island
Check out the all-new E-mountain biking facilities.

Come sunset, you’d be silly not to head up to One Tree Hill at least once during your stay. Offering breathtaking 360-degree views as the sun brushes the horizon with gold, it’s a popular place for groups and families to come together and enjoy a drink from the pop-up cocktail van.

Family tip: If you’re staying at the Sundays, Reef View Hotel, Palm Bungalows or Hamilton Island Holiday Homes, you’ll enjoy complimentary access to a range of water activities, including catamarans, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and snorkel equipment at Catseye Beach. Keep an eye out for the turtles that love to hang around the shallow fringing reef.

Where to play

heart reef
Take the family on a day tour to places like Heart Reef.

Kids are sure to have a field trip thanks to the island’s abundance of child-centric offerings.

Parents in need of some ‘me time’ can drop little ones between six months and 12 years off at the Clownfish Club, located near the Resort Centre and Pool. Overseen by trained professionals, the nursery offers a calm space for toddlers and babies with a balance of gentle play and rest. Meanwhile, older kids can unleash their imaginations with age-appropriate craft, games and group activities.

Parents seeking a stress-free night out can also make use of Hamilton Island’s babysitting services, which start from $40 an hour.

Hamilton Island Wildlife is another must-visit stop. Fun for children of all ages (and adults too!), the centre provides up-close encounters with a variety of cute and fascinating Aussie animals. Think marsupials, snakes, lizards, koalas and kangaroos, along with a giant saltwater crocodile. Catch the 10am or 2pm daily tours (included with entry) guided by expert keepers, or opt for a 30-minute private or small-group VIP encounter with an animal of your choice.

More kid-friendly entertainment awaits at Palm Valley Activities, where you can race around the go-karting track and reach up to 45 kilometres per hour. Kids under 16 can ride as passengers in double go-karts. Or perhaps try your hand at mini golf at the HI Fitness Club, navigating palms, playful challenges and pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens.

Keen to explore further afield? A wide range of Hamilton Island day trips promise endless excitement, from snorkelling on a Great Barrier Reef tour and chartering a boat to marvelling at the swirling sands of Whitehaven Beach from a scenic plane.

To plan your family island escape, visit hamiltonisland.com.au.