From ocean to plate: catch and cook on the South Coast

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Elisha Kennedy dives into the catch-and-cook philosophy, literally, by taking a hands-on tour through the bountiful waters of NSW’s Far South Coast.

We had always planned to make our road trip to the base of the New South Wales south coast our ‘seafood holiday’. As city-dwellers, my partner and I relished the opportunity to cast our phones aside and drive to a place where the ocean is sapphire blue and you can pick up a dozen delicious oysters from a roadside stall for under $10.

 

That is our idea of heaven, but we wanted more than just buying our meals – we wanted to physically catch our own. We’re both competent at fishing and were keen to try something more hands-on, but how would we know where to look? What to bring? Or what to do with it when we found it? Easy – ask a local.

 

Scott Proctor grew up on the Sapphire Coast and has spent a large portion of his life either in the ocean, or learning about it. After studying marine science at the University of Wollongong, he returned to his hometown of Pambula, deciding to share his passion for the sustainable seafood that is available there through his tour company, Australia’s Coastal Wilderness Adventures (ACWA).

 

Through ACWA, Scott offers small-group marine experiences including snorkelling, prawning and ocean to plate. We chose the ocean-to-plate experience, which incorporates a targeted dive for abalone, lobsters, mussels, crayfish and sea urchins followed by a cook-up of the seafood harvest for lunch. The market value alone to buy this produce is hundreds of dollars, but it was the opportunity to pick the brains of a local marine expert that really had us hooked.

 

We met Scott at the Eden Visitor Information Centre, and from here he drove us to a remote access point to Twofold Bay. All necessary gear, equipment and a fishing licence is provided and, after kitting up, we clambered over rocks to the shore.

 

A quick verbal run-through from Scott on snorkelling and breathing techniques, and we were in practising our dives. It doesn’t take long to get the hang of it, and we improved with each resurfacing. When we felt comfortable in depths of several metres, Scott led us further offshore to begin ‘the hunt’. We snorkelled through a changing ocean landscape: rocky walls, seagrass beds and shallow reefs.

 

The bay was teeming with marine life. On our two-hour dive we encountered wobbegong sharks, eastern rock lobsters, black and red spined urchins, starfish, abalone, blue mussels and a variety of fish species. But only some of those are good eating, and we were after a meal.

 

The prized abalone hide in crevices, cementing themselves between the curves of rocks in the deep. The smaller ones are plentiful here in the bays of Eden, but the minimum legal size to keep is 11.7 centimetres, and finding the larger ones takes patience. What we were really after were lobsters, and finding them is no easy feat. They’re extremely well camouflaged and surprisingly strong. Scott’s well-trained eye spots them, lying low in the crayweed – given away only by their thin and reddish antennae. A quick and agile grab secured them, and we kept them in netted bags attached to our weight belts. Deeper offshore we found mussel beds, easy enough to twist off the rocks – if you can hold your breath long enough to do so.

 

Between the three of us we bag two crayfish, four abalone and 40 mussels. Scott chats about the importance of bag limits, encouraging you to take “just enough for lunch", and he always varies dive locations. “It’s crucial not to harvest too much from the same area," he tells us. “It might be tempting but it’s not sustainable, for you or the ecology."

 

We carted our harvest up the hill to Eden’s Rotary Park lookout, to cook what we would go on to confidently claim as the best meal of our lives. After two hours of intense swimming and diving in the salty ocean we had worked up a healthy appetite and, as we readied lunch together, Scott demonstrated the best ways to prepare and cook our catch.

 

We couldn’t believe the immense satisfaction and overall sense of wellbeing we gained from a single meal. You haven’t tasted fresh until you’ve eaten seafood that your own hands have plucked out of the ocean and thrown into the frypan in a matter of minutes. Our catch is paired with a local sourdough from Wild Rye’s Baking Co in Pambula and oysters fresh from the Merimbula leases. “It’s so important for me to support the local producers," Scott explains. “In this way, we’re working together." Everything we ate for lunch came from the local region – even the tomatoes were grown in Scott’s family’s backyard.

 

At the end of our ocean-to-plate experience, our bodies felt fit and full. In such a short amount of time we had gained a skillset that could feed us for many meals to come, and that is an invaluable experience.

 

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise. Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar, located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.