Cycling Around Australia

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One woman, one bike, one continent – and one sore backside. We sat down with Kate Leeming after she cycled around Australia to find out what keeps her wheels turning.

How would you compare the challenges riding around Australia to your Trans-Siberian ride?

In Russia we were travelling into virtually the unknown. In 1993, the country was undergoing massive political, economic and social upheaval as communism broke down. Prior to this time it was impossible for Westerners to get permission to travel unrestricted within Russia as many regions were “closed".

 

Over a distance of 3500km between Halls Creek and Perth, I only had to camp wild (free) four times, the rest of the time I stayed on stations and farms. It was a really special part of the journey. Even on the road, people would stop to see if I needed any water or food.

 

We always travelled withat least one Russian cyclist to help us with language and general safety. We never had problems finding enough calories, but had extremely limited fresh food and the quality of our diet in Russia was poor. My diet in remote parts of Australia was better, but also far from optimal.

 

The GRACE Expedition was almost twice the length of the Trans-Siberian Cycle Expedition; 9.5 months versus five months at a similar intensity.

 

In Russia there was the Swamp – approximately 1500km in eastern Siberia where there were no roads marked on our US air military maps, and where we had to follow the Trans-Siberian railway line to navigate our way through. We travelled for days with freezing, waterlogged feet. The major obstacle in the Australian expedition was the CSR. Almost 2000km in length, it traverses four deserts and approximately 1000 sand dunes. Here I was battling through temperatures in excess of 40 degrees and where the temperature radiating from the sand can reach 60 degrees, burning my feet.

 

In Russia I was learning more about a very different culture; in Australia I was learning more about my own culture. Interestingly, I learned that the many of the images I had of the Soviet Union during the Cold War were similar to the images our Russian friends had of us during that time. The generosity in both countries, especially in remote regions was constantly humbling.

25,000km. Nine and a half months cycling Around Australia . How many bikes/equipment did you go through?

The same sturdy mountain bike made it all the way; a standard, off-the-peg Giant XTC3 with all suspension removed for maximum strength and ‘bomb-proof’ Tubus rear and front low-rider racks attached.

 

The Canning Stock Route presented many of the best and worst parts.

 

I changed the working parts three times; the chain, gear cassette, chainwheel and derailleur, which wear out, especially on the rough tracks. I used high quality tyres – the road tyres were good for over 10 000km, but I went through a fair number of the softer ‘off road’ tyres, which were very fat to deal with the sand and corrugations. It blows people’s minds now if I ride that bike to work with the odometer reading over 27,000km!

Your book Out There and Back features a section on the Canning Stock Route (CSR), during which you write an extensive day-to-day log. Were there days when you were just too tired to write?

I always made an effort to write something, even if it was abbreviated to a few key words and phrases. Looking back over my diaries, especially the CSR entries, it’s apparent just how exhausted I was; some sentences don’t make sense, I’ve forgotten to finish off words or written off the page with an illegible scrawl.

 

Camping near Well 19, and later at Well 39, I fell asleep sitting upright at the table, mid-sentence.

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AI Prompt

How do you train yourself physically and mentally to prepare for a journey like this?

After some 30,000km of bicycle travel, prior organising and completing the GRACE Expedition I already had a good idea of what I was getting myself into. Having battled though extreme tiredness, muscular pain and insatiable hunger associated with starting out on previous escapades without adequate preparation, I’d promised myself I’d be better physically prepared for the Australian expedition.

 

While I maintained my usual good base level of fitness in the gym and did manage to test myself with a couple of longer 130km rides (on my racing bike without 30kg of extra load), my physical training was totally inadequate because the last three months of organising the project (expedition logistics, website, sponsors, education program etc) was manic, especially as I also had to work fulltime.

 

I was completely exhausted at the start, stressed and suffering from a distinct lack of sleep. However, nothing really ever prepares you anyway for such an intense workload, day after day. The first couple of weeks were a case of biting the bullet; pacing myself, finding a rhythm and developing little techniques to occupy my mind while in the saddle for six to eight hours a day.

What was the best and worst part of your journey?

The best general highlights included: the adventure, the space and time, the simplicity, the clarity of the desert particularly at dawn and dusk, the characters I met along the journey – especially staying on the remote outback stations, the supreme, “indestructible" feeling of fitness, the satisfaction and the natural high at the end of every day’s effort.

 

The most tedious annoyances included: the flies, a constantly sore backside, headwinds, the rigmarole of packing and unpacking – squeezing everything into four small panniers – wearing the same worn-out, smelly clothes every day, the almost constant veil of tiredness, camping food, and people claiming I was mad without at least trying to understand what I was doing.

 

The Canning Stock Route presented many of the best and worst parts.

Can you tell us about some of the injuries you sustained on the trip?

I managed to avoid any injury bad enough to stop me for any length of time. There were plenty of minor injuries, which made things uncomfortable. On the third last day I skinned my elbow, wrist, shoulder and hip after a headfirst tumble down a gravel hairpin in the Snowy Mountains.

 

On the Gunbarrel Highway and the CSR I came off countless times, regularly landing on sharp spinifex spines, which break off under the skin and result in minor infections.

 

A severe bout of dehydration caused a painful urinary tract infection a few days later and in the south west of WA I was stopped for a couple of days with a violent stomach bug which weakened me for a couple of weeks. In Russia I broke a rib on the Steppe, but continued (in extreme discomfort); it gradually repairing over the next six weeks.

You rode alone for the second half of the trip. How was the solitude compared to having Greg with you?

I asked Greg if he would like to join me for the GRACE Expedition because I knew we were very compatible when it comes to cycling and after the Russian expedition, we knew each other’s strengths, weaknesses and idiosyncrasies well.

 

Travelling with someone means plenty of give and take, making concessions. While our cycling partnership was very strong, I was eager to head off on my own on the CSR, in my own space and going at my own pace. I enjoyed listening to my own body, not having to deal with any complaints, tensions or snoring.

 

In general I like travelling alone, but in doing so there was no one to help share the load or share your experiences.

 

Meal times in particular can be a bit lonely. Travelling alone down the west coast was not as lonely as one might imagine given the distances between any type on civilisation.

 

Over a distance of 3500km between Halls Creek and Perth, I only had to camp wild (free) four times, the rest of the time I stayed on stations and farms. It was a really special part of the journey. Even on the road, people would stop to see if I needed any water or food.

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What are some tips you’d give for people wanting to start out on some epic bike journeys?

Be sure of what you’d like to achieve and why. If times get tough, knowing the answers to these questions will help pull you through. Spend time researching your journey – type of terrain, expected range of weather conditions, find out where your food and water might come from, culture of the region, political situation etc.

 

Choose equipment that can cope with the most testing conditions you think you will face. Think of your worst-case scenarios and have a plan to deal with them. Have flexibility within your plan – situations and conditions can change. Try a smaller journey first so that you have some idea of your capabilities. Choose compatible travel companions with like-minded goals.

Were there any moments where you thought “what am I doing?"

When I was lying in the tent very early in the morning, with the promise of another long hot scorcher and a long, lonely road ahead; the tent walls bowing with what was obviously going to be a vicious head wind.

 

The morning after an extreme bout of dehydration on Day 10 of the CSR when I felt physically exhausted, mentally and emotionally drained. I sat down in the sand as if on strike and had to reason with myself, think the whole challenge of the stock route through.

 

After just crossing the Nullarbor and 20,000km complete, my husband announced during a phone call that he was going to leave me. This totally knocked the stuffing out of me and I wondered how I was going to exist let alone finish the last 5000km of the expedition.

Do you remember the first bike you ever had?

Not counting the three-wheelers which were handed down from my older brothers and sisters, the first bike I had, I earned by collecting cow and sheep manure and selling it to people who lived in the nearest town to fertilise their gardens. I used to get $7 per ute load and my first bike, a second hand dragster complete with plastic “flower power" seat, all the rage in the ‘70s, was worth four loads of manure.

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Two of the best festivals are coming to Ballarat: here’s how to plan for them

(Credit: Tony Evans)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Come for a couple of unmissable festivals, stay for a long, leisurely weekend of wining, dining and exploring all the heritage-rich glory Ballarat has to offer.

    Far from a sleepy town, the historic city of Ballarat is an unexpectedly vibrant cultural and culinary destination. Year-round, it hosts a roster of events and experiences – including the upcoming Ballarat Heritage Festival, a celebration of the city’s past, and the new Ballarat Craft and Design Week, a must for fans of all things handmade and thoughtfully designed.

    Beyond the festivals, there’s a bevy of things to see, do, eat and drink – making a weekend in Ballarat an absolute no-brainer.

    Plus, just 90 minutes away from Melbourne by car along the Western Freeway or an easy train ride from Southern Cross, getting here is simple and stress-free.

    Day 1

    Morning

    Perridak Arts ballarat
    Peruse works by local First Nations artists at Perridak Arts. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Start your Ballarat jaunt at Johnny Alloo, a beautifully restored cafe harking back to the 1870s with original details and contemporary touches. Order a seasonal plate from the all-day brunch menu alongside a cleverly reimagined ‘cup of tea’ – the cafe’s very own Earl Grey-infused early bird spritz.

    Next, head to Perridak Arts, a First Nations-owned and operated gallery filled with powerful works by local First Nations artists. Your next stop is Hop Lane, an alleyway crowned by a floating canopy of technicoloured umbrellas and centred on Hop Queen, a striking mural of a commanding female figure.

    Afternoon

    The Pottage ballarat
    Create your own artworks at The Pottage. (Credit: Mass Motion)

    Cobb’s Coffee is a firm favourite for consistently good coffee and thoughtful food, making it a solid lunch spot. The cafe’s signature sandwiches and toasties are well worth trying as you take in the heritage surrounds.

    While away your afternoon at The Pottage, where Ballarat ceramicist and social media favourite Shelby Sherritt has just moved into brand-new digs. Try a throwing workshop, or pick a piece of pottery to paint from the extensive collection (the team will post it to you once it’s fired).

    Now it’s time to check into Hotel Vera, the newest boutique accommodation in the city’s already-impressive line-up. The hotel presents a modern spin on Ballarat’s gold rush-era past – think design-led rooms, gold detailing and a curated art collection. There are only seven suites, each as beautifully finished as the next, with high-quality linens and plush furnishings.

    Evening

    Babae hotel vera ballarat
    Sit down to a seven-course feast at Babae. (Credit: Einwick)

    Treat yourself to a pre-dinner drink at Grainery Lane. The saloon-style bar has rich, period-inspired decor (including an original bar top sourced from Chicago) and drinks reminiscent of 1900s classics, crafted with local ingredients.

    Head back to Hotel Vera for a seven-course feast at Babae. This intimate dining room serves up a refined, ever-evolving menu made with exceptional produce and is a truly memorable experience.

    Day 2

    Spencer & Nick Ballarat Craft and Design Week
    Spend the day at Ballarat Craft and Design Week. (Credit: Klapper Films)

    Linger over a slow breakfast at Hotel Vera. You’ll graze your way through a spread of locally sourced treats, from toasted granola and pastries to seasonal fruit, and will need a strong coffee before a busy day at the main event: Ballarat Craft and Design Week.

    This year marks the event’s inauguration, a celebration of artists, makers, designers and manufacturers. It’s a testament to Ballarat’s position as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art.

    The festival features a thoughtfully curated roster of events and activities, including free talks, hands-on workshops where you can craft your own keepsake, displays, studio tours and more. The central theme is Bound, with a flagship exhibition hosted in Ballarat’s grand and iconic Mining Exchange. The exhibition brings together five immersive projects designed to be touched, explored and experienced.

    Afternoon

    Pancho ballarat
    Discuss your favourite artworks over lunch at Pancho. (Credit Einwick)

    The Craft and Design program continues at The Unicorn Collection. The gallery is hosting Why Are You Here?, an installation presented by artists from the community that centres on the meaning of Ballarat as home.

    Recharge with lunch at Pancho, which turns out vibrant food from across Central and South America. Make sure to order from the specials board, often featuring dishes from more far-flung locations.

    For a top-up of local craftsmanship, a visit to Wootten is a must. This workshop and retail space is a Ballarat institution, making and selling made-to-order and customised footwear alongside a selection of handcrafted leather goods.

    Evening

    Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets contain incredible dining options. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Book a table at Mr Jones, headed by chef Damian Jones, who’s worked in Michelin-Starred restaurants around the globe. The modern Asian menu changes weekly, but you can always expect the very best ingredients cooked with precision and restraint.

    Finish off your day of art and exploration with a nightcap (and maybe a cheeky late-night snack) at Renard. This intimate and atmospheric cocktail bar does clever drinks alongside French-leaning small plates – we love the smoked trout pate and goat’s cheese doughnuts.

    Day 3

    Morning

    Black Cat Truffles
    Stop into Black Cat Truffles before heading home. (Credit Einwick)

    It’s your final morning in Ballarat (that is, until you inevitably return), so it’s worth making it an unhurried one. Turret Cafe is your best bet for a relaxed and satisfying breakfast, with a produce-driven all-day menu and excellent coffee inside a character-filled setting.

    A wander around the leafy Ballarat Botanical Gardens, followed by an excursion to Ross Creek Gallery, is the ideal way to stretch your legs after your morning feast. The gardens are replete with seasonal flower displays and heritage-listed trees, while the gallery is hosting a group exhibition centred on printmakers from across the region as part of Craft and Design Week.

    Farewell your weekend escape – and fuel up for the journey home – at Black Cat Truffles. True to its name, the restaurant serves truffle-infused dishes (alongside regular fare) and the surrounding farm hosts truffle hunts and experiences. Pair your meal with a drop from the on-site Meredith Wines cellar door.

    Can’t make it for Ballarat Craft + Design Week? Time this itinerary for the annual Ballarat Heritage Weekend, returning 21-24 May, or the magical Ballarat Winter Festival, 27 June – 19 July. Start planning at visitballarat.com.au.