Defining the ‘sense of arrival’

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An old mate of mine recently returned from her travels to Burma and said she stayed at a wonderful hotel with a great ‘sense of arrival’.

The wow she got from the arrival only served to remind her how much the sense of arrival had been lost at hotels and resorts in recent times.

I love that expression: a sense of arrival. It implies the hotel or resort is a destination in of itself. It only works if the arrival is backed up by the property, and thankfully it usually does go hand in hand.

The Palazzo Versace certainly has that sense of arrival, with the turning circle hand-crafted by Italian artisans. And if you read my review, you would realise that’s a big call for someone who is not a Versace guy. (What, no rippling abs and a waist like a twelve-year-old boy, I hear you scream?)

A stark example of the difference a sense of arrival makes in Sydney is the Swissotel and QT, both on Market Street and both lobbies only accessed by a lift.

Swissotel has the requisite professional staff that escort you to the lifts to arrive at an open, fairly mainstream and corporate reception. It’s extremely difficult in that situation to make a sense of arrival.

QT, on the other hand, creates a sense of arrival from the street, with clever uniforms and the startling “director of chaos", and great use of the fabulous Art Deco architecture. The lifts play different music for the number of guests – single occupants get lonely tunes, loads of occupants have a party anthem. This immediately gives you a sense of arrival in a challenging circumstance.

This idea of arrival reminds me of a piece of advice Michael Anderson, Chief Concierge at the Observatory, now the Langham, shared at out Les Clef D’Or lunch a while ago.

“A lobby should be treated by staff as a stage and ensure that there is a sense of theatre and drama happening in the space," he said.

But when it is not backed up in the property, it is almost worse than no sense of arrival at all. It leaves you feeling cheated. I would prefer to be surprised with a great hotel with no sense of arrival.

A great example was my stay at the Royce Hotel in Melbourne a number of years ago. There is nothing worse than a hotel that is lobby deep.

You would say that the Luxury Lodges of Australia should all have a sense of arrival and, whilst many do, some could be a lot better to be honest.

My favourite of the lodges would have to be Saffire Main Stingray building. An absolute masterpiece of craftsmanship and use of the location. Can we have some more of that, please, Australia. Let me know of any places with a great sense of arrival.

Oh, and in case you are wondering, my mate Kate’s place was the Inle Princess in Burma.

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Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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Victoria’s surprising new outdoor adventure hotspot

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley
    A town charmingly paused in time has become a hot mountain biking destination. 

    There’s a forest reserve full of eucalyptus and pines surrounding town – when you combine all the greenery with a main street of grand old buildings still standing from the Victorian Gold Rush, Creswick looks more period movie set than a 21st-century town.  

    old gold bank Victoria
    Grand buildings from the Victorian gold rush. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    This entire region of Victoria – the Central Goldfields – is as pretty-as-a-picture, but there’s something extra-special about Creswick. I used to live 30 minutes north; I’d drive in some evenings to cruise its main street at dusk, and pretend I was travelling back in time. 

    It was sleepy back then, but that’s changed. Where I used to walk through its forest, now I’m hurtling down the state’s best new mountain bike trails. There’s a 60-kilometre network of mountain bike trails – dubbed Djuwang Baring – which make Creswick the state’s hottest new mountain biking destination.  

    Meet Victoria’s new mountain biking capital 

    Creswick bike trail
    This historic town has become a mountain biking hotspot.

    Victoria has a habit of turning quiet country towns into mountain biking hotspots. I was there in the mid-2000s when the tiny Otways village of Forrest embarked on an ambitious plan to save itself (after the death of its timber cutting industry) courtesy of some of the world’s best mountain bike trails. A screaming success it proved to be, and soon mountain bike trails began popping up all over Victoria. 

    I’m no expert, so I like that a lot of Creswick’s trails are as scenic as they are challenging. I prefer intermediate trails, such as Down Martuk, with its flowing berms and a view round every corner. Everyone from outright beginners to experts can be happy here. There’s trails that take me down technical rock sections with plenty of bumps. But there’s enough on offer to appeal to day-trippers, as much as hard-core mountain-bikers. 

    I love that the trails empty onto that grand old main street. There’s bars still standing from the Gold Rush of the 1850s I can refuel at. Like the award-winning Farmers Arms, not to be confused with the pub sharing its name in Daylesford. It’s stood since 1857. And The American Creswick built two years later, or Odessa Wine Bar, part of Leaver’s Hotel in an 1856-built former gold exchange bank.  

    The Woodlands
    The Woodlands is set on a large bushland property. (Image: Vanessa Smith Photography)

    Creswick is also full of great cafes and restaurants, many of them set in the same old buildings that have stood for 170 years. So whether you’re here for the rush of the trails or the calm of town life, Creswick provides. 

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Staying there 

    1970s log cabin
    Inside the Woodlands, a chic 1970s log cabin. (Image: Vanessa Smith Photography)

    RACV Goldfields Resort is a contemporary stay with a restaurant, swimming pool and golf course. The Woodlands in nearby Lal Lal comprises a chic log cabin set on a 16-hectare property abundant in native wildlife. 

    Eating there 

    Le Peche Gourmand
    Le Peche Gourmand makes for the perfect pitstop for carb and sugar-loading.

    The menu at Odessa at Leaver’s Hotel includes some Thai-inspired fare. Fuel up for your ride on baguettes and pastries from French patisserie Le Peche Gourmand. The Farmers Arms has been a much-loved local institution since 1857. 

    Playing there 

    Miss NorthcottsGarden
    Miss Northcotts Garden is a charming garden store with tea room. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Creswick State Forest has a variety of hiking trails, including a section of the 210-kilometre-long Goldfields Track. Miss Northcotts Garden is a quaint garden store with tea room.