Explore Australia’s hidden restaurant gems

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While Australian cities have a wealth of great places to dine, nothing quite beats taking to the open road on a food adventure. These far-flung foodie spots will leave you sated, wowed and glad you took the road less travelled.

Remember the days when eating in the country rarely stretched beyond sausage rolls and pub grub? Oh, how times have changed. Today, regional restaurants confidently go head to head with their urban counterparts for industry awards and international recognition, which means no matter which direction from the city you head, there’s a good chance you’ll hit culinary gold.

 

What’s perhaps even more notable though, are the intrepid operators popping up in tiny towns well off the mainstream tourist routes. In obscure outposts everywhere from Brunswick Heads to Birregurra, it seems a new generation of chefs is realising that great local produce is best eaten in situ, and diners are lapping it up in droves.

 

So what’s behind this new golden age of regional dining? According to restaurateur, Kirstyn Sessions of acclaimed restaurant, Fen in Port Fairy, Victoria it might have something to do with regional players capitalising on ready access to exceptional produce.

 

“We love being able to show off our part of Australia to the world," Sessions says. “And food that is grown locally or that’s native to the area is one of the best ways to express what’s really unique and special about the region."

 

Hungry for your next culinary road trip? We’ve put together a hit list of some of Australia’s best destination dining spots – some fancy, others casual. The only rule? Book. In. Advance. They might be in the middle of nowhere but these spots are hot, hot, hot.

New South Wales

Fleet

Along with its incredible food, the attention to detail and personalised service at Brunswick Heads’ Fleet are legendary. Seating just 14, this minimal, wood-lined space champions local produce (local sea urchin, Ballina prawns, perhaps) and thoughtfully made booze.

Doma Cafe

Keen to go casual? A scenic drive into the Bryon hinterland leads to popular mod-Japanese Doma Café in Federal. Housed in an old weatherboard general store, expect super laid-back vibes and authentic sashimi, maki sushi and katsu burgers.

Coolamon Cheese

Meanwhile, 25 minutes north-west of Wagga, the tiny village of Coolamon is drawing droves of dairy-loving day-trippers thanks to the recently opened café at Coolamon Cheese .  Go for the excellent cheese, stay for the great Campos coffee, warm service, excellent lunch fare and well-chosen local Riverina wines.

Victoria

Brae

Consistently rated among Australia’s finest restaurants, Dan Hunter’s Brae has helped redefine Australian cuisine. Located 90 minutes’ drive west of Melbourne, the timber farmhouse draws international foodies and press for its highly original, hyper local tasting menu.

Fen

At Fen , in the sleepy seaside town of Port Fairy, chef Ryan Sessions is introducing diners to stunning native and local produce like green-lip abalone, sea parsley and western district lamb.

Royal Mail Hotel

With its on-site olive grove, orchards and organic kitchen garden, Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld is a pub, but not as you know it. Along with chef Robin Wickens’ inspired seasonal fare, the epic wine list and stunning mountain views all add to the charm.

Tasmin’s Table

The weekly Sunday lunch spread at Tamsin’s Table in Poowong, West Gippsland is a great way to appreciate the culinary joys of paddock-to-plate dining. Not only is she an incredible cook, Tamsin grows, bakes, bottles, harvests and rears every edible thing on site.

Tasmania

Agrarian Kitchen Eatery and Store

Gastronomes have been detouring to Rodney Dunne’s bucolic Derwent Valley cooking school for years. His new venue, Agrarian Kitchen Eatery & Store , now lures crowds to the tiny town of New Norfolk for a dining experience where local, seasonal produce is celebrated.

Timbre Kitchen

Further north in Legana (near Launceston), chef Matt Adams is working deliciously creative culinary magic at Timbre Kitchen, thanks in part to a big wood oven (think wood roasted chicken with brown butter) and his flock of goats (hello cheese and curd).

Masaaki

Perhaps one of Tassie’s best kept food secrets comes via surf-mad Japanese sushi chef, Masaaki Koyama, whose hole-in-the-wall restaurant, Masaaki’s in Geeveston serves some of the freshest, most meticulously sourced real-deal sushi you’ll find.

Queensland

Spirit House

At the rainforest-shrouded Spirit House in Yandina, the hour’s drive north-west of the Sunshine Coast is rewarded with equal parts culinary heaven and zen-like retreat vibes. Chef Tom Swapp’s menu offers mod and trad takes on Thai, with local produce playing a starring role.

The Tamarind

Further inland at Maleny, The Tamarind has French-trained chef Daniel Jarrett combining classical technique, local ingredients and pan-Asian flavours with delicious results. Nestled in the rainforest, the breezy outdoor pavilions make for an unforgettable dining location.

The Long Apron

Located further north in the Sunshine Coast hinterland, The Long Apron at Spicer’s Clovelly Estate in Montville sees Michelin-trained British chef, Chris Hagan showcasing the coast’s excellent seafood and produce in a multi-course, European-inspired tasting menu.

South Australia

The Summertown Aristologist

With a population of less than 400, the tiny Adelaide Hills village of Summertown makes an unlikely gastro destination, but thanks to laid-back wine bar/eatery, The Summertown Aristologist it’s now on the map.

Terroir

The compact menu heroes local produce, while the 500-strong wine list offers plenty of justification for settling in. At Auburn’s Terroir , the kitchen runs with “a strict locavore philosophy." So along with attentive service and serious wines,  you can expect to feast on the very best of seasonal Clare Valley bounty. Try chef Dan Moss’s 4-course tasting menu and be sure to savour a Clare Riesling (or two).

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Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly. 

Heathcote , on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability. 

Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve
The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote 

Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents
Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood , two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof.  No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course.  On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

Mt Ida Eco Cabin
Mt Ida Eco Cabin is rustic and simple but oozes comfort. (Image: Graham Hosking)

If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views.   Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.  

A taste of Spain in Central Victoria 

Three Dams Estate
Three Dams Estate make Spanish-style wine.

Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more. 

The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking 

Silver Spoon winery
The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do.  The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter.  The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.   

Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant
Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

Heathcote’s other hidden gems 

Heathcote Wine Hub
Heathcote Wine Hub is housed in a 1855-built timber church.

Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub , a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff.  “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.  

Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.   

Envy gins
Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

A traveller’s checklist 

Getting there

It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road! 

Staying there

Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway. 

Eating there

French dishes at Chauncy
Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

At award-winning Chauncy , French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.  

Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through. 

Playing there

Sanguine Estate
Sip on wines among the vines at Sanguine Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

Sanguine Estate ’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.  

At Bridgeward Grove , learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve.