Explore Australia’s hidden restaurant gems

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While Australian cities have a wealth of great places to dine, nothing quite beats taking to the open road on a food adventure. These far-flung foodie spots will leave you sated, wowed and glad you took the road less travelled.

Remember the days when eating in the country rarely stretched beyond sausage rolls and pub grub? Oh, how times have changed. Today, regional restaurants confidently go head to head with their urban counterparts for industry awards and international recognition, which means no matter which direction from the city you head, there’s a good chance you’ll hit culinary gold.

 

What’s perhaps even more notable though, are the intrepid operators popping up in tiny towns well off the mainstream tourist routes. In obscure outposts everywhere from Brunswick Heads to Birregurra, it seems a new generation of chefs is realising that great local produce is best eaten in situ, and diners are lapping it up in droves.

 

So what’s behind this new golden age of regional dining? According to restaurateur, Kirstyn Sessions of acclaimed restaurant, Fen in Port Fairy, Victoria it might have something to do with regional players capitalising on ready access to exceptional produce.

 

“We love being able to show off our part of Australia to the world," Sessions says. “And food that is grown locally or that’s native to the area is one of the best ways to express what’s really unique and special about the region."

 

Hungry for your next culinary road trip? We’ve put together a hit list of some of Australia’s best destination dining spots – some fancy, others casual. The only rule? Book. In. Advance. They might be in the middle of nowhere but these spots are hot, hot, hot.

New South Wales

Fleet

Along with its incredible food, the attention to detail and personalised service at Brunswick Heads’ Fleet are legendary. Seating just 14, this minimal, wood-lined space champions local produce (local sea urchin, Ballina prawns, perhaps) and thoughtfully made booze.

Doma Cafe

Keen to go casual? A scenic drive into the Bryon hinterland leads to popular mod-Japanese Doma Café in Federal. Housed in an old weatherboard general store, expect super laid-back vibes and authentic sashimi, maki sushi and katsu burgers.

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Coolamon Cheese

Meanwhile, 25 minutes north-west of Wagga, the tiny village of Coolamon is drawing droves of dairy-loving day-trippers thanks to the recently opened café at Coolamon Cheese.  Go for the excellent cheese, stay for the great Campos coffee, warm service, excellent lunch fare and well-chosen local Riverina wines.

Victoria

Brae

Consistently rated among Australia’s finest restaurants, Dan Hunter’s Brae has helped redefine Australian cuisine. Located 90 minutes’ drive west of Melbourne, the timber farmhouse draws international foodies and press for its highly original, hyper local tasting menu.

Fen

At Fen, in the sleepy seaside town of Port Fairy, chef Ryan Sessions is introducing diners to stunning native and local produce like green-lip abalone, sea parsley and western district lamb.

Royal Mail Hotel

With its on-site olive grove, orchards and organic kitchen garden, Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld is a pub, but not as you know it. Along with chef Robin Wickens’ inspired seasonal fare, the epic wine list and stunning mountain views all add to the charm.

Tasmin’s Table

The weekly Sunday lunch spread at Tamsin’s Table in Poowong, West Gippsland is a great way to appreciate the culinary joys of paddock-to-plate dining. Not only is she an incredible cook, Tamsin grows, bakes, bottles, harvests and rears every edible thing on site.

Tasmania

Agrarian Kitchen Eatery and Store

Gastronomes have been detouring to Rodney Dunne’s bucolic Derwent Valley cooking school for years. His new venue, Agrarian Kitchen Eatery & Store, now lures crowds to the tiny town of New Norfolk for a dining experience where local, seasonal produce is celebrated.

Timbre Kitchen

Further north in Legana (near Launceston), chef Matt Adams is working deliciously creative culinary magic at Timbre Kitchen, thanks in part to a big wood oven (think wood roasted chicken with brown butter) and his flock of goats (hello cheese and curd).

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Masaaki

Perhaps one of Tassie’s best kept food secrets comes via surf-mad Japanese sushi chef, Masaaki Koyama, whose hole-in-the-wall restaurant, Masaaki’s in Geeveston serves some of the freshest, most meticulously sourced real-deal sushi you’ll find.

Queensland

Spirit House

At the rainforest-shrouded Spirit House in Yandina, the hour’s drive north-west of the Sunshine Coast is rewarded with equal parts culinary heaven and zen-like retreat vibes. Chef Tom Swapp’s menu offers mod and trad takes on Thai, with local produce playing a starring role.

The Tamarind

Further inland at Maleny, The Tamarind has French-trained chef Daniel Jarrett combining classical technique, local ingredients and pan-Asian flavours with delicious results. Nestled in the rainforest, the breezy outdoor pavilions make for an unforgettable dining location.

The Long Apron

Located further north in the Sunshine Coast hinterland, The Long Apron at Spicer’s Clovelly Estate in Montville sees Michelin-trained British chef, Chris Hagan showcasing the coast’s excellent seafood and produce in a multi-course, European-inspired tasting menu.

South Australia

The Summertown Aristologist

With a population of less than 400, the tiny Adelaide Hills village of Summertown makes an unlikely gastro destination, but thanks to laid-back wine bar/eatery, The Summertown Aristologist it’s now on the map.

Terroir

The compact menu heroes local produce, while the 500-strong wine list offers plenty of justification for settling in. At Auburn’s Terroir, the kitchen runs with “a strict locavore philosophy." So along with attentive service and serious wines,  you can expect to feast on the very best of seasonal Clare Valley bounty. Try chef Dan Moss’s 4-course tasting menu and be sure to savour a Clare Riesling (or two).

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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach, the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road. Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park, which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae, helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream, Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.