Driving the historic Mallee Highway: What you need to know

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To get from Victoria to South Australia, many people choose the Great Ocean Road. Others follow the Murray from its source to the sea. But the inland route along the often-overlooked B12 highway is a drive worth taking for its historic country towns, grazing land, pink-hued lakes, salt dunes and wild mallee scrub.
Lanky eucalypts loom above the waters of Murray flood plains as the sun lowers itself behind them, leaving romantic reflections on the still waters. Magpies and kookaburras sing their goodnights.

Starting at Tooleybuc

We are in Tooleybuc, NSW, at the start of a good old Aussie road trip. We are driving the length of the Mallee Highway from east to west over the next few days – well, nearly all of it. We join the highway at Tooleybuc as we make our way from Melbourne to Adelaide, hoping for a scenic alternative to the usual Dukes Highway.

 

The picturesque Mallee Highway (aka the B12) is roughly 430km long and stretches from Balranald in NSW across the northern farmland of Victoria, before ending just south of Tailem Bend, South Australia.

Mallee Highway

Into Victoria

After spending the night huddled next to the fireplace in the cosy Tooleybuc Hotel, we get up early, eager to see what the highway has in store. As we cross the Murray River over the rickety Tooleybuc bridge and into Victoria, the slowly lifting mist lets through a few rays of sun, just enough to warm our backs as we head west.

 

About five minutes down the road in Piangil, we come across 25-year veteran volunteer fireman Kim McFarlane and his dog Gabby. Up early on a Sunday morning, as always, he goes through the weekly safety procedures at the CFA fire station with his colleagues. There is no sleeping in on a Sunday morning for anyone else in Piangil either, as part of the procedure involves testing the deafening CFA alarm system.

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Stopping at Ouyen

It is the little things that catch our eye along this stretch of the highway up to Ouyen, where we plan to spend the night. Good rains have brought an abundance of wild melons. Bright green and yellow, they litter the countryside along the road, creating a striking contrast against the brown earthy tones of the surrounding farmland. We find miniature wagons for sale in Manangatang, homemade mailboxes made from milk cans and scrap metal, as well as little help-yourself stalls where you can buy butternut pumpkins in exchange for leaving change.

 

Ouyen, Victoria’s “Town of Choice", is the commercial and transport centre for the surrounding grain farm region. The railway station dominates the town, but an equally marvellous feature is the Hotel Victoria. Built in 1919, it has all the classic iconic hotel features. Apart from the power lines running across the street, it would be a perfect setting for a period outback movie, with horses instead of cars parked out the front. The hotel has a grand staircase to the second floor, high ceilings, creaky old hallways and a magnificent front bar that stretches almost the length of the building. The atmosphere and hearty pub menu makes dinner here a must. It has one shortcoming: built in the old tradition, guests in all but one of the 29 rooms have to share bathroom facilities.

Through farmland

As we head west from Ouyen, we start to see more and more mallee trees, the eucalypts with characteristic multiple spindly stems that gave the area its name. In some areas there is only a thin lining of mallee next to the highway as we pass through farmland. However, you do not have to travel far off the main road to get into the thick scrub, as the area is flanked by national parks. To the north is Murray-Sunset National Park and to the south are Wyperfield and Big Desert.

 

The textures and colours of the natural scrub are spectacular as the afternoon sun casts patchy shadows, creating a scene of heightened contrasts that starts to play tricks on our eyes.

Underbool and beyond to the Pink Lakes

Pink Lakes of Murray-Sunset National Park

In the small town of Underbool we stop at the general store for some cold drinks. As Pennie the shop assistant chats with us she heads to the other end of the very long counter and into the post office section, where she hands over some mail to a resident. “Just further up the road there’s a sign to the Pink Lakes, they’re pretty nice," she tells us when we probe her for local secrets. “They’re most pink in summer but they’re not bad now."

 

We continue just out of Underbool to the sign, which shows us it’s only 13km to Pink Lakes. They’re part of the Murray-Sunset National Park and on entering, to our delight, we find ourselves in the middle of an unexpected Australian safari. We spot emus first, then three eastern grey kangaroos suddenly hop out of the scrub, halting abruptly to look us over before bounding off, uninterested. We take it slow on the good gravel road and keep our eyes open for the elusive mallee fowl, an endangered species that nests in the scrub, but we are not lucky enough to spot one.

Kangaroo sign on Mallee highway
An information board at Lake Hardy tells us that these salt lakes get their marshmallow-pink glow from algae in the water. Further on at Lake Becking, the kid in me is tempted to run up and down the steep salt “dunes", relics of the salt mining that occurred here from 1916 until 1975.

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Stopping at Murrayville

The refreshingly understated, yet typically Australian, landscape and wildlife are leaving their mark on us. We stay to watch the sunset over the mallee scrub before heading on to Murrayville, where the dinner menu at the Murrayville Hotel boasts… “Mallee Fowl"!

 

Fortunately we soon discover that the attention-grabbing menu item is merely a cheekily named chicken dish, but we order it anyway, then turn our attention to the correct local terminology for ordering a beer – after all, having started our journey in NSW, we’re now in Victoria and only 20km from the SA border. A South Australian schooner is a different size from that in NSW. A pint differs between Victoria and South Australia, and an imperial pint is different again. Then there are pots, glasses and mugs with a handle.

Hotel Victoria in Ouyen
Dale the publican does his best to help us in this thirsty work, but his cheeks are still swollen from his recent wisdom teeth removal, so practical experimentation proves to be the best way to work it out…

Final stop: South Australia

We spend the night in Murrayville, and the next morning continue west into South Australia. As we enter Pinnaroo, the towering grain silos on the outskirts of town remind us again that this is farm country.

 

On this windy day we spot a flock of galahs clinging to an aerial tower above the police station. Lined up in a row, they drop their heads to brace against the oncoming wind. Then something spooks them and they take flight in a pink cloud of loud confusion before returning to the tower.

 

We buy some country pies from the bakery and head west once more.  The rest of the drive to Tailem Bend is scenic through cultivated landscape. The farmlands are a patchwork quilt of yellow and green canola fields, and wildflowers are scattered along the railway line that runs parallel to the road. As a thunderstorm rolls through the countryside it leaves a bright rainbow behind.

 

The sun finally reappears as we reach the end of the Mallee Highway at the junction with the Dukes Highway. There we turn north-west, crossing the Murray River which has looped round to join us again, for the final hour’s drive to Adelaide.

 

Love the sound of this drive? You should check out our list of iconic Australian road trips.

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Two of the best festivals are coming to Ballarat: here’s how to plan for them

(Credit: Tony Evans)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Come for a couple of unmissable festivals, stay for a long, leisurely weekend of wining, dining and exploring all the heritage-rich glory Ballarat has to offer.

    Far from a sleepy town, the historic city of Ballarat is an unexpectedly vibrant cultural and culinary destination. Year-round, it hosts a roster of events and experiences – including the upcoming Ballarat Heritage Festival, a celebration of the city’s past, and the new Ballarat Craft and Design Week, a must for fans of all things handmade and thoughtfully designed.

    Beyond the festivals, there’s a bevy of things to see, do, eat and drink – making a weekend in Ballarat an absolute no-brainer.

    Plus, just 90 minutes away from Melbourne by car along the Western Freeway or an easy train ride from Southern Cross, getting here is simple and stress-free.

    Day 1

    Morning

    Perridak Arts ballarat
    Peruse works by local First Nations artists at Perridak Arts. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Start your Ballarat jaunt at Johnny Alloo, a beautifully restored cafe harking back to the 1870s with original details and contemporary touches. Order a seasonal plate from the all-day brunch menu alongside a cleverly reimagined ‘cup of tea’ – the cafe’s very own Earl Grey-infused early bird spritz.

    Next, head to Perridak Arts, a First Nations-owned and operated gallery filled with powerful works by local First Nations artists. Your next stop is Hop Lane, an alleyway crowned by a floating canopy of technicoloured umbrellas and centred on Hop Queen, a striking mural of a commanding female figure.

    Afternoon

    The Pottage ballarat
    Create your own artworks at The Pottage. (Credit: Mass Motion)

    Cobb’s Coffee is a firm favourite for consistently good coffee and thoughtful food, making it a solid lunch spot. The cafe’s signature sandwiches and toasties are well worth trying as you take in the heritage surrounds.

    While away your afternoon at The Pottage, where Ballarat ceramicist and social media favourite Shelby Sherritt has just moved into brand-new digs. Try a throwing workshop, or pick a piece of pottery to paint from the extensive collection (the team will post it to you once it’s fired).

    Now it’s time to check into Hotel Vera, the newest boutique accommodation in the city’s already-impressive line-up. The hotel presents a modern spin on Ballarat’s gold rush-era past – think design-led rooms, gold detailing and a curated art collection. There are only seven suites, each as beautifully finished as the next, with high-quality linens and plush furnishings.

    Evening

    Babae hotel vera ballarat
    Sit down to a seven-course feast at Babae. (Credit: Einwick)

    Treat yourself to a pre-dinner drink at Grainery Lane. The saloon-style bar has rich, period-inspired decor (including an original bar top sourced from Chicago) and drinks reminiscent of 1900s classics, crafted with local ingredients.

    Head back to Hotel Vera for a seven-course feast at Babae. This intimate dining room serves up a refined, ever-evolving menu made with exceptional produce and is a truly memorable experience.

    Day 2

    Spencer & Nick Ballarat Craft and Design Week
    Spend the day at Ballarat Craft and Design Week. (Credit: Klapper Films)

    Linger over a slow breakfast at Hotel Vera. You’ll graze your way through a spread of locally sourced treats, from toasted granola and pastries to seasonal fruit, and will need a strong coffee before a busy day at the main event: Ballarat Craft and Design Week.

    This year marks the event’s inauguration, a celebration of artists, makers, designers and manufacturers. It’s a testament to Ballarat’s position as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art.

    The festival features a thoughtfully curated roster of events and activities, including free talks, hands-on workshops where you can craft your own keepsake, displays, studio tours and more. The central theme is Bound, with a flagship exhibition hosted in Ballarat’s grand and iconic Mining Exchange. The exhibition brings together five immersive projects designed to be touched, explored and experienced.

    Afternoon

    Pancho ballarat
    Discuss your favourite artworks over lunch at Pancho. (Credit Einwick)

    The Craft and Design program continues at The Unicorn Collection. The gallery is hosting Why Are You Here?, an installation presented by artists from the community that centres on the meaning of Ballarat as home.

    Recharge with lunch at Pancho, which turns out vibrant food from across Central and South America. Make sure to order from the specials board, often featuring dishes from more far-flung locations.

    For a top-up of local craftsmanship, a visit to Wootten is a must. This workshop and retail space is a Ballarat institution, making and selling made-to-order and customised footwear alongside a selection of handcrafted leather goods.

    Evening

    Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets contain incredible dining options. (Credit: Tony Evans)

    Book a table at Mr Jones, headed by chef Damian Jones, who’s worked in Michelin-Starred restaurants around the globe. The modern Asian menu changes weekly, but you can always expect the very best ingredients cooked with precision and restraint.

    Finish off your day of art and exploration with a nightcap (and maybe a cheeky late-night snack) at Renard. This intimate and atmospheric cocktail bar does clever drinks alongside French-leaning small plates – we love the smoked trout pate and goat’s cheese doughnuts.

    Day 3

    Morning

    Black Cat Truffles
    Stop into Black Cat Truffles before heading home. (Credit Einwick)

    It’s your final morning in Ballarat (that is, until you inevitably return), so it’s worth making it an unhurried one. Turret Cafe is your best bet for a relaxed and satisfying breakfast, with a produce-driven all-day menu and excellent coffee inside a character-filled setting.

    A wander around the leafy Ballarat Botanical Gardens, followed by an excursion to Ross Creek Gallery, is the ideal way to stretch your legs after your morning feast. The gardens are replete with seasonal flower displays and heritage-listed trees, while the gallery is hosting a group exhibition centred on printmakers from across the region as part of Craft and Design Week.

    Farewell your weekend escape – and fuel up for the journey home – at Black Cat Truffles. True to its name, the restaurant serves truffle-infused dishes (alongside regular fare) and the surrounding farm hosts truffle hunts and experiences. Pair your meal with a drop from the on-site Meredith Wines cellar door.

    Can’t make it for Ballarat Craft + Design Week? Time this itinerary for the annual Ballarat Heritage Weekend, returning 21-24 May, or the magical Ballarat Winter Festival, 27 June – 19 July. Start planning at visitballarat.com.au.