Driving the historic Mallee Highway: What you need to know

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To get from Victoria to South Australia, many people choose the Great Ocean Road. Others follow the Murray from its source to the sea. But the inland route along the often-overlooked B12 highway is a drive worth taking for its historic country towns, grazing land, pink-hued lakes, salt dunes and wild mallee scrub.
Lanky eucalypts loom above the waters of Murray flood plains as the sun lowers itself behind them, leaving romantic reflections on the still waters. Magpies and kookaburras sing their goodnights.

Starting at Tooleybuc

We are in Tooleybuc, NSW, at the start of a good old Aussie road trip. We are driving the length of the Mallee Highway from east to west over the next few days – well, nearly all of it. We join the highway at Tooleybuc as we make our way from Melbourne to Adelaide, hoping for a scenic alternative to the usual Dukes Highway.

 

The picturesque Mallee Highway (aka the B12) is roughly 430km long and stretches from Balranald in NSW across the northern farmland of Victoria, before ending just south of Tailem Bend, South Australia.

Mallee Highway

Into Victoria

After spending the night huddled next to the fireplace in the cosy Tooleybuc Hotel, we get up early, eager to see what the highway has in store. As we cross the Murray River over the rickety Tooleybuc bridge and into Victoria, the slowly lifting mist lets through a few rays of sun, just enough to warm our backs as we head west.

 

About five minutes down the road in Piangil, we come across 25-year veteran volunteer fireman Kim McFarlane and his dog Gabby. Up early on a Sunday morning, as always, he goes through the weekly safety procedures at the CFA fire station with his colleagues. There is no sleeping in on a Sunday morning for anyone else in Piangil either, as part of the procedure involves testing the deafening CFA alarm system.

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Stopping at Ouyen

It is the little things that catch our eye along this stretch of the highway up to Ouyen, where we plan to spend the night. Good rains have brought an abundance of wild melons. Bright green and yellow, they litter the countryside along the road, creating a striking contrast against the brown earthy tones of the surrounding farmland. We find miniature wagons for sale in Manangatang, homemade mailboxes made from milk cans and scrap metal, as well as little help-yourself stalls where you can buy butternut pumpkins in exchange for leaving change.

 

Ouyen, Victoria’s “Town of Choice", is the commercial and transport centre for the surrounding grain farm region. The railway station dominates the town, but an equally marvellous feature is the Hotel Victoria. Built in 1919, it has all the classic iconic hotel features. Apart from the power lines running across the street, it would be a perfect setting for a period outback movie, with horses instead of cars parked out the front. The hotel has a grand staircase to the second floor, high ceilings, creaky old hallways and a magnificent front bar that stretches almost the length of the building. The atmosphere and hearty pub menu makes dinner here a must. It has one shortcoming: built in the old tradition, guests in all but one of the 29 rooms have to share bathroom facilities.

Through farmland

As we head west from Ouyen, we start to see more and more mallee trees, the eucalypts with characteristic multiple spindly stems that gave the area its name. In some areas there is only a thin lining of mallee next to the highway as we pass through farmland. However, you do not have to travel far off the main road to get into the thick scrub, as the area is flanked by national parks. To the north is Murray-Sunset National Park and to the south are Wyperfield and Big Desert.

 

The textures and colours of the natural scrub are spectacular as the afternoon sun casts patchy shadows, creating a scene of heightened contrasts that starts to play tricks on our eyes.

Underbool and beyond to the Pink Lakes

Pink Lakes of Murray-Sunset National Park

In the small town of Underbool we stop at the general store for some cold drinks. As Pennie the shop assistant chats with us she heads to the other end of the very long counter and into the post office section, where she hands over some mail to a resident. “Just further up the road there’s a sign to the Pink Lakes, they’re pretty nice," she tells us when we probe her for local secrets. “They’re most pink in summer but they’re not bad now."

 

We continue just out of Underbool to the sign, which shows us it’s only 13km to Pink Lakes. They’re part of the Murray-Sunset National Park and on entering, to our delight, we find ourselves in the middle of an unexpected Australian safari. We spot emus first, then three eastern grey kangaroos suddenly hop out of the scrub, halting abruptly to look us over before bounding off, uninterested. We take it slow on the good gravel road and keep our eyes open for the elusive mallee fowl, an endangered species that nests in the scrub, but we are not lucky enough to spot one.

Kangaroo sign on Mallee highway
An information board at Lake Hardy tells us that these salt lakes get their marshmallow-pink glow from algae in the water. Further on at Lake Becking, the kid in me is tempted to run up and down the steep salt “dunes", relics of the salt mining that occurred here from 1916 until 1975.

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Stopping at Murrayville

The refreshingly understated, yet typically Australian, landscape and wildlife are leaving their mark on us. We stay to watch the sunset over the mallee scrub before heading on to Murrayville, where the dinner menu at the Murrayville Hotel boasts… “Mallee Fowl"!

 

Fortunately we soon discover that the attention-grabbing menu item is merely a cheekily named chicken dish, but we order it anyway, then turn our attention to the correct local terminology for ordering a beer – after all, having started our journey in NSW, we’re now in Victoria and only 20km from the SA border. A South Australian schooner is a different size from that in NSW. A pint differs between Victoria and South Australia, and an imperial pint is different again. Then there are pots, glasses and mugs with a handle.

Hotel Victoria in Ouyen
Dale the publican does his best to help us in this thirsty work, but his cheeks are still swollen from his recent wisdom teeth removal, so practical experimentation proves to be the best way to work it out…

Final stop: South Australia

We spend the night in Murrayville, and the next morning continue west into South Australia. As we enter Pinnaroo, the towering grain silos on the outskirts of town remind us again that this is farm country.

 

On this windy day we spot a flock of galahs clinging to an aerial tower above the police station. Lined up in a row, they drop their heads to brace against the oncoming wind. Then something spooks them and they take flight in a pink cloud of loud confusion before returning to the tower.

 

We buy some country pies from the bakery and head west once more.  The rest of the drive to Tailem Bend is scenic through cultivated landscape. The farmlands are a patchwork quilt of yellow and green canola fields, and wildflowers are scattered along the railway line that runs parallel to the road. As a thunderstorm rolls through the countryside it leaves a bright rainbow behind.

 

The sun finally reappears as we reach the end of the Mallee Highway at the junction with the Dukes Highway. There we turn north-west, crossing the Murray River which has looped round to join us again, for the final hour’s drive to Adelaide.

 

Love the sound of this drive? You should check out our list of iconic Australian road trips.

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3 vintage train journeys to step back in time and explore NSW

(Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

From country landscapes to the coast, Vintage Rail Journeys blends the grandeur of the golden age of rail travel with immersive local experiences.

Travelling aboard the historic Southern Aurora train is the ultimate scenic journey through regional NSW. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, the former Southern Aurora is a step back in time, from the lovingly restored carriages to the Off Train Experiences that spotlight local history, artisanal crafts and regional producers.

Once the overnight express that ferried passengers between Sydney and Melbourne throughout the 1960s, this train has been revived to its former mid-century glory, from the cabin layouts to the original lettering. Today, the train takes passengers on scenic and historic five-day journeys – starting and ending in Sydney – through three distinct regions of NSW: The Riverina, Golden West and North Coast.

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train carriage
Be transported into the golden age of travel. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

One of the most magical parts of travelling with Vintage Rail Journeys is waking up on the train. Each night, the train stables at a station so guests can enjoy a restful night’s sleep in stillness, before departing again at dawn. Passengers awake to the gentle motion of the carriage, flicking open the blinds to watch the landscape unfold at sunrise. There is no better way to start the day.

The onboard experience come evening time is just as picturesque. Guests enjoy the all-inclusive food and beverages, nursing cocktails in the Art Deco-inspired lounge carriage or lingering over a three-course dinner in the dining carriage. Outside the window, Eastern grey kangaroos bound across open plains and flocks of cockatoos scatter from the gumtrees. It’s an old-world way of travelling, a slower pace that’s increasingly rare amid the frenzy of modern life. From coastal sojourns to adventures through agrarian landscapes, these are the multi-day Vintage Rail Journeys itineraries transporting guests back in time.

The Riverina

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train travelling through nsw
Travel through the agricultural heartland of NSW. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

The Riverina is the agricultural heartland of NSW. Over five days, Vintage Rail Journeys takes passengers through the region to experience its celebrated produce, wines and local history. Travelling in a loop through the Central West, guests can sample sweets at the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory, housed inside a former flour mill, tour an olive grove alongside a second-generation olive farmer, and enjoy tastings at family-owned wineries where the grapes are harvested mere metres away.

The Riverina is also a region shaped by passionate local historians. The Fairground Follies museum in Bowral houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music and carnival memorabilia – a riot of colour and nostalgia tucked away where you’d least expect it. Meanwhile, Temora Rural Museum offers a glimpse into the history of everyday life in rural NSW. It’s home to the NSW & ACT Ambulance Museum (yes, a museum within a museum), packed with ambulances that span the past 120 years (including horse-drawn!). And seeing it all aboard a vintage train makes it feel not just like you’re visiting history, but living inside of it.

North Coast

Forest Sky Pier
Take in the views from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

This five-day journey is all about ocean views and slowing down in tune with the rhythm of coastal life. As you make your way north from Sydney, the water is never too far from sight, whether Vintage Rail Journeys is tracing the Gloucester River or travelling alongside sweeping stretches of coastline. You’ll want to sit by a window as the train passes through the Coffs Harbour region – it’s one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey.

Guests can also disembark at Coffs Harbour to take in the beauty of the Great Dividing Range at the Forest Sky Pier – a surreal lookout point that looks like a runway disappearing into the sky. The train continues onward to Byron Bay, where guests can disembark to explore the iconic beach town at their own pace. And on the return journey to Sydney, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins – they’re known to frequent the Kooragang Wetlands near Newcastle, which guests visit on a lunch cruise on the final day.

Golden West

winery experience in new south wales
Jump off the train for a winery experience. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Travelling through the Golden West by rail is like stepping into a Frederick McCubbin painting – a nod to the golden era of rail travel. This five-day journey evokes the era of Australian Impressionism, passing through some of the country’s most painterly landscapes while tracing a path through history.

Starting in Sydney, the train makes its way to the Hawkesbury River, where the train crosses a historic rail bridge over the bronze, glassy waters below. Guests disembark here to cruise the brackish inlet aboard a historic postal boat before returning to the train to continue into Gold Rush country. Ahead lie grand heritage towns and historic estates, including the 1870s Abercrombie House in Bathurst.

Special event journeys

meal onboard Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train
Enjoy all-inclusive dining and beverages on the way to special events. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Regional NSW is home to some truly one-of-a-kind events, and Vintage Rail Journeys offers a memorable way to get there. Planning a trip to the Bathurst Repco 1000? Vintage Rail Journeys’ special itinerary combines accommodation, dining and transport into one seamless experience. Guests take the scenic route to Bathurst, where the train becomes a unique home base for the event, complete with transfers, all-inclusive dining and beverages, and three days of reserved grandstand seating before returning to Sydney Central Station.

For something a little more playful, guests can also join fellow Elvis enthusiasts on a special overnight journey to Parkes for the town’s iconic annual Elvis Festival. It’s a vintage rail journey – with a little added rock ‘n’ roll.

Step back into the golden age of rail travel at vintagerailjourneys.com.au.