Hollywood down under: Australia’s best film sets

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Before there was Hugh and Nicole, there was Mad Max, Priscilla and Mick Dundee. And with Australia the Country now distilled into Australia the Movie, George Dunfordcharts the history of our Big Country on the Big Screen.

Long before Hugh Jackman cracked a stockwhip over the country or Tourism Australia got Baz Luhrmann to cut their ads, the backdrops were landing starring roles in Aussiewood. Where would Mick Dundee be without somewhere to wrestle crocodiles? Or the Man from Snowy River without flint stones to send flying? And where would Priscilla and her desert queens have gone without King’s Canyon to live out the dream of a cock, in a frock, on a rock?

Craig’s Hut, of Man From Snowy River fame. Image by Tourism Vic.

Whether it’s winsomely crying “Miranda!" or revving up an Interceptor on a desert highway, everyone’s got their own moment of classic Aussie cinema that put a place on the map or a name up in lights.

All over Australia

In case you missed Moulin Rouge, Baz Luhrmann likes a big canvas. While scouting locations for Australia, almost the entire landscape got a casting call – in particular the Kimberley region. Sure, he could have shot the whole shebang at Sydney’s Fox Studios and tricked in backgrounds with CGI, but that’s not how Baz paints.

Baz and Nicole review a scene together. Image courtesy of 20th Century Fox.

To create Faraway Downs, the mythical property Nicole Kidman’s British aristocrat Lady Sarah Ashley inherits, a massive working cattle station was built near Kununurra. The two stations and resorts now synonymous with the project are El Questro and Home Valley Station. Shooting was plagued by torrential rains and equine flu, but a small army camped out under the stars to get the perfect shots. For a crucial mustering scene, the crew had to hold back more than 1000 head of cattle until dusk when Luhrmann’s “magic time" saw the country drenched in the ideal orange-red by the retreating sun. While there’s little of the set remaining, stars left their mark at the Celebrity Tree Park – with Jackman even planting a quirky boab.

 

The film’s dramatic climax is set in Darwin, but as the city no longer suits the 1940s period of Luhrmann’s film they had to build somewhere “more Darwin". The tiny Queensland town of Bowen swiped the title from the NT capital with another massive set construction to take it back in time. Locals were drafted in as extras and when filming wrapped many got to see “Mr Kidman" Keith Urban play a three-hour set at the wrap party. Now the town that was famous for the Big Mango is taking on the name Bowenwood.

Our Nic’ flees the bombs in Darwin (aka Bowen). Image courtesy of 20th Century Fox.

Sydney gets a look in as a location, with Vaucluse’s Strickland House doubling for Lady Sarah’s posh manor. Steamier sex scenes between Kidman and Jackman were shot behind closed doors on the lot at Fox Studios, and to recapture a missing scene the studio had to double as Kununurra, which meant importing tonnes of dirt of the exact deserty colour. While in town, Jackman also filmed crucial scenes from his upcoming Wolverine movie. The highlight was on Cockatoo Island where a buffed-up Jackman was seen running naked through the night for an escape scene. Although he was actually wearing a body stocking to avoid freezing, it’s a scene Sydneysiders were glad to catch a preview of.

Pubs

Silverton Hotel, NSW:

Easily the most filmed pub in Australia, this sleepy spot in Silverton has changed names 15 times to appear in everything from feature films to beer ads. You might know it from such films as Mad Max 2, Wake in Fright, A Town Like Alice and the Ozploitation schlocker Razorback. In real life the Silverton Hotel is a shy star, hiding out in a ghost town.

Mel’s Interceptor retains pride of place outside the Silverton Hotel. Image by Stuart Hamilton.

Owner Ines McLeod remembers when they started filming MM2. “I looked out the window and all these weird looking blokes in leather were hanging around and I wondered what we were in for," she says. “They used to come in dressed up in their outfits to have lunch in the beer garden."

 

The pub walls are papered with evidence of its glittering silver screen career. Amid corny jokes and a bust of Menzies (labelled Ming the Merciless) are cheeky snaps of Bryan Brown on the set of Dirty Deeds and Mel in the famous Interceptor. Nothing seems to ruffle Ines, who’s helped out on the biggest productions. “Sometimes they need a snake or want someone that can stand on their head and crack a whip," she says. “We always seem to be able to find what they want."

Walkabout Hotel, Qld:

Ever wondered where Mick Dundee (Paul Hogan) first wrestled a stuffed croc to impress a US journo and create a worldwide smash? After dodging roadtrains for 104km southeast of Cloncurry, you’ll find the small town of McKinlay and its Walkabout Creek Hotel, renamed to match the film’s boozer. It’s decorated with candid photos of Hoges mugging for the cameras, but even more of Linda Kozlowski in that thong swimsuit that had Hoges swapping wives. After Crocodile Dundee’s success, the pub sold for nearly $300,000 – an investment recouped by the sale of the popular Walkabout Creek Hotel T-shirts.

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AI Prompt

Beaches

Gallipoli Beach, SA:

On Anzac Day many Australians will remember, not a beach in Turkey, but a secluded chunk of SA’s Eyre Peninsula made famous by Peter Weir’s Gallipoli. On these expansive beaches, a young Mel faced off against blokes recruited from the footy teams of nearby Port Lincoln, drafted to play Turkish soldiers. The beach is still called Gallipoli Beach (further confusing it with its international namesake), lest we forget the great Aussie film. You can still run into extras from the Aussie war epic in the streets of Port Lincoln, but these days they’re Ute-driving millionaires, not from the box office but from tuna sales.

The Coorong, SA:

Skip the glammed-up Sydney beaches or sandy shoals of the Great Ocean Road. The heart-warming children’s film Storm Boy showed us a moody overcast beach on which a boy and his pelican, Mr Percival, played. Fingerbone Bill (David Gulpilil) watches over the two as they play in the dunes and saltpans of the Coorong National Park. The park remains a major breeding ground for waterbirds, particularly pelicans, so local Aboriginals called it Kranangk (“long neck"). While shooting the film three local long necks played the part of Mr Percival and even got the star treatment in a swimming pool out the back of Adelaide’s SA Film Corporation.

 

You can find the long stretches of coast just 88km drive south of Adelaide and re-live the Storm Boy’s chase after pelicans on the beach. You mightn’t find Fingerbone Bill, but Aboriginals still offer tours of the area, like the mob at Camp Coorong (www.ngarrindjeri.com) and the Coorong Wilderness Lodge (www.australiantraveller.com/coorong), who do guided trips through the Coorong pointing out bush tucker and telling yarns.

Outback

Coober Pedy, SA:

When Ava Gardner was making On the Beach in Melbourne, she cattily wrote the city off as “a great place to make a film about the end of the world." She obviously hadn’t seen Coober Pedy, which has been given the apocalyptic guernsey in films like Mad Max 3: Beyond Thunderdome. The Breakaways, freakish outcrops of multi-hued rock, hogged the screen in MM3, but were equally popular as other planets in sci-fi flicks like Red Planet and Pitch Black. The area was once an inland sea that dried up, leaving sediment levels coloured from rich ochre to stark white.

 

The spot certainly left its mark on Hollywood hunk Vin Diesel, who for his role in Pitch Black wore contacts so thick he called them hubcaps. The intense heat caused an eyewear malfunction that virtually glued the hubcaps into his eye sockets and an optometrist had to be flown in from Adelaide so filming could continue.

A rare image of Mel Gibson on set of Beyond Thunderdome in Coober Pedy, from Ken Duncan�s book Life’s an Adventure, The First Twenty-Five Years. Image by Ken Duncan.

Pitch Black also left its mark on the town, with several props still around, including the spacecraft left outside a hostel (in case of backpacking Martians). It’s a compulsory cliché if you’re visiting to take a sticky beak into an underground home – Tina Turner certainly did while filming MM3. A pair of her undies are nailed to the roof among a sea of other fans’ knickers in Crocodile Harry’s infamous subterranean abode. Harry himself could be the subject of a film as he reckons he’s a Latvian baron who became a crocodile shooter, a possible inspiration for Paul Hogan’s Mick Dundee.

The Pilbara, WA:

In Japanese Story, filmmaker Sue Brooks always believed there were three main characters: the geologist, the Japanese businessman and the Pilbara. While the geologist (Toni Collete) and the Japanese businessman (Gotaro Tsunashima) gradually fall for each other, the surrounding desert forms the lonely third part of the love triangle, captured in bleak long shots. Just getting access to the film locations meant long negotiations with traditional landowners, and then there was the red dust that seemed hell-bent on clogging all the equipment. Without trespassing, the best chance to see the Pilbara is in Karijini National Park, in particular, Kalamina Falls, which could have been the setting for the movie’s tragic turning point.

McDonald Ranges, WA:

Never heard of The Overlanders? Baz Luhrmann definitely has, as Australia shares its crucial cattle-driving plot with this 1946 classic. If you catch it now you can compare our Hugh with the legendary Chips Rafferty’s performance as a toughened drover. But the Outback Oscar should have gone to the rugged country, which positively leaps to life even in black and white. The film follows the Murranji Track, a stretch of almost 2500km from WA to Qld taking in some of Australia’s rawest desert and lushest bush. Most of the film was shot in the McDonald Ranges that’s been a must-see since this first “Australian western" hit the cinemas.

The house that Baz built. Chief production designer for Australia and two-time Academy Award-winner Catherine Mrs Baz Martin is seen here on location near Kununnura in far northwest WA. A walkthrough section of Faraway Downs is being exhibited at the ACMI in Fed Square from Dec 08

High country

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Merrijig, VIC:

When Australians think of stockmen, the icon is still a bloke who rounded up the colt from Old Regret while winning Sigrid Thornton’s heart. When it came time to make the movie of Banjo Patterson’s poem, the Snowy Mountains were re-located to the Victorian High Country. The twilight scenes of Jessica (Sigrid Thornton) and Jim (Tom Burlinson) romancing in silhouette were actually not filmed around Kosciuszko way, but not far from the Victorian town of Merrijig.

 

The snow gums and ravines that made for white-knuckle horse wrangling in The Man From Snowy River are easily accessible today, with some of the set left behind for tourists and the possibility of another sequel. On Mt Stirling, the shell of a cottage custom-built for the film called Craig’s Hut overlooked the valley – until it was burned to the ground in bushfires in 2006/07. It has now been restored to its former glory, and if you listen out over the valley you might hear the rumble of hooves as the Man canters home . . . or is that just a 4WD tour?

Hanging Rock, VIC:

When Peter Weir wrapped on his kooky The Cars That Ate Paris in the tiny NSW town of Sofala, he wanted to make the Australian bush as sinister as the small town besieged by cars in his first feature. He found Joan Lindsay’s novel Picnic at Hanging Rock and got a spine-tingling location into the bargain. Set on Valentine’s Day 1901, the film traces the disappearance of three schoolgirls, including teen queen Miranda, during an excursion that veers towards the occult.

 

More than just dreamy shots of the rock or an eerie warning for bush-wandering kids of the ’70s, the film took off overseas, scoring best cinematography at the BAFTAs. Amid rumours that filming was plagued by supernatural quirks like watches stopping (as they did in the film right before the girls disappeared), people flocked to the Macedon Ranges to forlornly cry “Miranda!" as they climbed Australia’s second most famous rock. The film is still screened at Hanging Rock every Valentine’s Day and, despite its spooky reputation, the movie monolith remains a popular spot for picnickers.

Big cities

Sydney:

Although heralded as Australia’s own Gotham City, Sydney is yet to play host to any of the Batman films. But it has formed the backdrop to well over 200 others, ranging from four-hour Bollywood epics (the last half of the inexplicable 2001 Hindi love story Dil Chahta Hai features some of the most stunning and sweeping views of Sydney ever committed to the silver screen) to Star Wars I and II, Two Hands (Bondi Beach, China Town and Kings Cross) and the famous Matrix trilogy. Neo and his pals stalked in front of a variety of CBD landmarks, as did Brandon Routh as the man of steel in Superman Returns, choosing to hang out mostly near Wynyard Station (aka the offices of The Daily Planet).

 

When Tom Cruise came to Sydney for Mission Impossible II, he took audiences on a whirlwind tour, from The Rocks to Ashton Park near Taronga Zoo, La Perouse, Elizabeth Bay, Governor Phillip Tower, Royal Randwick – even Broken Hill. Of endless entertainment to viewers of this film are the collection of mostly geographical errors it contains.

 

Like the tracking device that places our heroine in Sydney, backed by a laptop map with a blinking marker midway between Cairns and Darwin. Or our heroine being dropped off by car in the middle of the pedestrian-only Darling Harbour. Or the IMF team preparing to storm Governor Phillip (aka Biocyte) Tower with a street map of London. But hey! It’s the movies!

Melbourne:

Widely recognised as the world’s first feature length film, many of the scenes from The Story of the Kelly Gang (1906) were shot in Melbourne suburbs, including St Kilda, Eltham and Mitcham. Since then, more than ten feature films have been made about Australia’s most infamous bushranger – the most recent being Ned Kelly (2003), starring the recently departed Heath Ledger, which was largely shot in Ballarat. (At least it was shot in Victoria; the 1970 Ned Kelly starring Mick Jagger was controversially filmed in NSW, drawing protest from living Kelly descendants and many others.)

Jamie Lee Curtis in Road Games. Image by NFSA.

Melbourne has hosted a swathe of other big and small name movies over the years, including: Ghost Rider with Nicolas Cage (Docklands, Flinders St Station, even Telstra Dome); the incomparable Kenny, Australia’s most famous waste management artisan (Chapel St, Flemington raceway and other spots); Eric Bana as the compelling Chopper (Pentridge Prison); The Castle, which elevated outlying Bonnie Doon to iconic status; the original Mad Max (Melbourne Uni’s car park as Mel’s HQ); Rusty Crowe as a head-butting skinhead in Romper Stomper (Footscray and Richmond); and not forgetting Road Games (1981), a frankly appalling movie starring Jamie Lee Curtis, which was filmed in Diggers Rest near Melbourne airport, as well as locations ranging from Port Melbourne to Eucla to the Great Australian Bite.

 

Its tagline – “The truck driver plays games. The hitchhiker plays games. And the killer is playing the deadliest game of all! – should tell you everything you need to know about that classic piece of Ozploitation cinema.

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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.