Is room service dead?

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With the rise of food delivery apps, hotels around the world are being forced to turn the trolley tables and rethink in-room dining. So is room service really endangered or is it just getting a face-lift?

Whether it’s for a celebratory bottle of Moët or a greasy late-night cheeseburger, the notion of room service still manages to capture fantasies of lavishness and indulgence. Who could forget the glee of a boofy-haired, white-robed Julia Roberts chewing on pancakes and picking at her breakfast croissant while Richard Gere read the business pages? Let’s be honest, we’ve all wanted to live out that scene.

 

It doesn’t matter if you’re dialling ‘9’ in Phuket, Paris or Perth, the simple – yet irrational – act of summoning overpriced edible goods to your hotel room door at any hour always seems like a treat. While the end product might vary in its desirability upon delivery, the blinding mystique of luxury endures; somehow elevating a simple sandwich or glass of orange juice to luxurious new heights – at least in our imaginations.

 

But despite the alluring sheen of extravagance, today’s world of UberEATS and Deliveroo means that overpriced hotel room service menus don’t always stand up as the best option for a lazy night in.

 

According to Condé Nast Traveler, despite rising numbers of hotel guests overall, room service in the US has dropped by 25 percent in the past six years. Hotels are starting to wake up to the fact that today’s guests can swipe a jazzed-up souvlaki or a poke bowl onto the premises without too much hassle (just have a look and see who’s milling around hotel lobbies with boxy backpacks on their back these days – it’s a thing) so they’re having to get a little more creative to stay in the game. But is room service really going the way of the dodo or is it all just hotel hyperbole?

 

Timo Bures, general manager at The Old Clare Hotel in Sydney’s Chippendale thinks the cynics might be over-hyping things, “Room service isn’t dead – and it won’t die," he asserts. “It’s just slowly – and thankfully – adapting; just as restaurant dining has changed over the years."

 

Bures says that there’s still a market for room service in the same way that there is still a market for traditional fine dining restaurants – limited, but by no means extinct. Some hotels are upping their in-house dining offerings by providing grab-and-go style cafes or co-working-style workspaces with in-house baristas. But for the exhausted business traveller who just wants to switch on the telly and switch off the world, room service offers a rare chance to robe up, eat up and flop out.

 

“There will always be people who just want to kick their shoes off, watch TV and have some food [in their hotel room]," explains Bures. “And it’s great news that more and more hotels are exploring new ideas to facilitate in-room food that don’t entail the guest having to get up and open the door to a bow-tied, waist-coated, white-gloved waiter."

 

David Clifton, director of food and beverage for QT Hotels & Resorts agrees, and says that hotels are increasingly having to evolve their food offering to keep up with changing guest demands – both in their restaurants and on their room service menus. “At QT Hotels & Resorts we’re passionate about locally sourced ingredients and seasonal produce… across all hotel dining touchpoints" he explains. “This allows guests to experience local fare delivered straight to their room."

 

Forget club sandwiches and cold fries, QT Melbourne will happily let you order up a late-night jaffle with wild mushroom and raclette. Fancy a bottle of Macedon Ranges pinot to wash it down with? You’re on. If you’re in the mood for rice paper rolls, salumi boards, quinoa salad or a hangover-friendly breakfast roll with fried egg, bacon and aioli, you can have that too.

 

So don’t desert your Pretty Woman fantasies just yet. Room service isn’t dead; it’s just having to wiggle over to make a little more room in the bed.

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AI Prompt

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Explore historic wine towns and sculpture trails on a 3-day self-guided Murray River cruise

    Ricky French Ricky French
    Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place. 

    Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat. 

    After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.    

    Murray River
    The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

    Setting sail from Mildura 

    Murray River birds
    Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

    A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.  

    My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.  

    Stop one: Echuca  

    19th-century paddlesteamers
    A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star, is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.  

    The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.  

    Stop two: Barmah National Park 

    Barmah National Park
    Camping riverside in Barmah National Park, listed as a Ramsar site for its significant wetland values. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.  

    The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.  

    Stop three: Cobram 

    Yarrawonga MulwalaGolf Club Resort
    Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange. 

    The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.  

    Stop four: Albury-Wodonga 

    First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk
    First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

    Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country. 

    A traveller’s checklist  

    Staying there

    New Mildura motel Kar-rama
    New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

    Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town. 

    Playing there

    BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura
    Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

    Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists. 

    Eating there

    Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.