Ken Duncan’s travel photography fundamentals for beginners

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Four brilliant lessons in travel photography from the legendary Australian landscape photographer Ken Duncan

Everyone’s a photographer these days, but only one man can claim the honour of starting the travel-photography-as-art movement: one Ken Duncan AM.

 

Often referred to as ‘that landscape photographer’ (and occasionally recognised as Midnight Oil’s main snapper), Ken has shot some 200,000 wall-worthy images, so he’s probably the guy to thank for the pretty field of sunflowers hanging in your dentist’s waiting room. (Never mind the Order of Australia, countless international exhibitions, worldwide fan base or presidential admirers.)

 

Having set up and conquered the world’s fine-art photography industry, he’s now sharing his extensive knowledge base with anyone who cares to attend his photography workshop on NSW’s Central Coast. At the end of our four-day adventure we’d learnt a bagful of new tricks (and gotten to know a very interesting guy). Here are our favourite pearls of wisdom.

1. Break the rules

It doesn’t take long to work out that Duncan isn’t much of a stickler for rules (his entire career came about as a result of ignoring people who said ‘no’ to him, after all).

 

“It was a visit to New York in the early ’80s that started me," he muses. “They had fashion photography over there happening in a big way, but when I came back to Australia, photography wasn’t being treated as an art form. I decided to set up a gallery showcasing my images." These days, his portfolio of landscapes is hailed as Australia’s best (and most extensive), and his prints sell across the world.

 

But breaking the rules is how you get the best images, he adds. “Once I had a woman come to one of my exhibitions with a doctorate in photography, and she was telling me how surprised she was that one of the photos ‘worked’, even though it wasn’t one-third sky, two-thirds foreground," he says. (She had no idea who she was talking to, so he responded: “Lucky this guy didn’t know the rules then.")

 

His best piece of photography (and life) advice? Screw the technical matters – chase the fleeting moments.

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2. Follow your gut

Photography might now be considered an art form (“yes, they call it fine art photography now," Duncan says with amusement. “What’s that?"), but he reckons it’s all about instinct. During the workshop, you’re encouraged to traverse rocky outcrops, scramble up muddy slopes and get metres from stampeding horses or rushing waterfalls – whatever you feel it’ll take to get a good shot.

 

On a wider level, he tells us that he once felt compelled to put together an entire book shooting American landscapes (called America Wide: In God We Trust), which ended up being gifted to President George W. Bush by then-PM John Howard on September 10, 2011. The very next day was that fateful September 11. Months later, President Bush would write Duncan a letter saying, “Ken, at a time when I had to make some very heavy decisions over my nation, I’d like to thank you for this book, because I’m reminded how blessed our nation is."

 

The weirdest thing? Duncan says he had no idea why he felt so compelled to create that book – it was entirely an instinct thing.

3. Eat breakfast later

Landscape photography is all about the right light, so even though you’ll be staying in a lovely hotel, don’t expect to get any lie-ins. The best light begins well before sunrise and usually floods the scene five to 10 minutes after the sun has risen, so you’ll be up nice and early. Eventually you’ll be happy about the 4am alarm, though – “everything in the foreground lights up, and you get beautiful pastel colours in your shots that way," Ken enthuses. You also won’t get your shadow in the shot if you’re up early enough.

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4. It’s not what you think

You don’t have a huge amount of time to spend yarning at the pub during Duncan’s workshop, but he does extrapolate enthusiastically on the benefits of chatting to strangers when travelling, for the local secrets it invariably results in. “That’s how I found out about the Glasshouse Rocks at Narooma [on NSW’s South Coast]," he says.

 

“They are as good as the 12 Apostles, but you can get down on the beach with them. They’re an icon in the making." You heard it here first…

 

Ken’s next ‘Coastal Exposure’ photography workshop is on 15–19 May, 2015. See kenduncan.com

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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach, the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road. Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park, which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae, helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream, Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.