Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

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Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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7 Lake Macquarie secrets the locals don’t want you to know

Credit: Beau Pilgrim

An untapped side to this popular holiday spot is hiding in plain sight.

Laid-back Lake Macquarie draws in holidaygoers and day trippers with its casual coastal allure and raw beauty. But even though it’s just 90 minutes from Sydney, most visitors have only scratched the surface of what this region has to offer.

Foodie hotspots, quaint towns, tranquil waterways and compelling art are all waiting to be discovered. You just need to know where to find them.

1. Most visitors don’t make it to the western side

Explore beyond the western side. (Credit: Beau Pilgrim)

While there’s no harm in walking the well-worn path in this idyllic pocket of the world, the area west of Lake Macquarie is defined by stretches of ancient rainforests and quaint towns with a more local feel. Toronto is the largest town on this side and features a golf course and sailing clubs, while peninsula-based Wangi Wangi is fantastic for bushwalking and swimming.

2. There’s a booming arts scene

Museum of Art and Culture, YAPANG
Discover the Museum of Art and Culture, YAPANG.

Lake Macquarie is a must-visit destination for creatives. Discover the Museum of Art and Culture, YAPANG; this modern gallery is set on a five-hectare sculpture park and showcases a free rotating program of exhibitions and events, with a strong focus on contemporary Aboriginal art. In Wangi Wangi, explore the Wangi Owl Trail, which includes Dobell House, the preserved home of prolific artist Sir William Dobell. And enjoy live music every Saturday evening at the recently renovated Toronto Hotel.

3. It’s a nature lover’s paradise

three people swimming in lake macquarie
In and out of the water, find a natural paradise. (Credit: Beau Pilgrim)

Lake Macquarie is a playground for nature lovers. It’s home to Australia’s largest saltwater lake, a 110-square-kilometre haven for swimming, fishing, boating and sunset views. Another oasis is the Lake Macquarie State Conservation Area, a 761-hectare protected reserve with wildflowers, Second World War heritage sites and spectacular views to Pulbah Island. The upgraded Toronto baths, complete with jetty decking and netting, make for a sheltered spot for a refreshing dip, while the Awaba Mountain Bike Park gives adrenaline junkies their fix.

4. The dining scene is unbeatable

8 at Trinity lake macquarie
Treat yourself to 8 at Trinity.

Gourmands are well looked after in Lake Macquarie. At Emerson’s on the Lake in Toronto, the modern Australian fine dining menu spoils seafood lovers with the freshest ocean produce and stunning lake views. Sitting on Trinity Point’s waterfront, 8 at Trinity is another standout offering, serving Mediterranean fare in an open-air setting. For a more relaxed affair, the microbrewery trail lets craft beer enthusiasts sip on inventive brews from The Yard, Lake Mac Brewing and Bread & Brewery.

5. There are hidden coves and waterways

kayakers on lake macquarie local secrets
Get out onto the lake. (Credit: Beau Pilgrim)

There’s no better way to experience Lake Macquarie than directly on its waters, and in doing so you’ll discover a world of hidden coves and secluded waterways. Jump in a kayak for a tour with the friendly team at School of Yak and paddle to Cockle Creek, Awaba Bay, Green Point and Fennel Bay, discovering underwater life along the way. Or go all in and stay the night on one of Lake Macquarie Houseboats’ spacious vessels or hire a BBQ pontoon boat for the day from Lake Macquarie Boat Hire to enjoy a feast in the sunshine while admiring the marine life and picturesque waterscape.

6. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise

ll blue wren sitting on a tree branch
Keep an eye out for local birdlife. (Credit: Walter Coppola)

Twitchers are in for a real treat as hundreds of fascinating bird species such as Australian pelicans, black swans, white-bellied sea-eagles and superb fairy-wrens call this area home. Take a self-guided tour around top spots including Bird Cage Point and Lake Macquarie State Conservation Area (near Morisset) or be guided in a clear-bottom kayak through the waterways with Lake Macquarie Kayak Adventures, observing feathered friends as you go.

7. The lake has islands

sail lake macquarie
Charter a boat to see Lake Macquarie’s islands.

Hop on a private boat, kayak or charter around the lake to discover the plethora of small islands peppered around Lake Macquarie. The largest is Pulbah Island, a 69-hectare nature reserve home to goannas and sugar gliders with secluded beaches. Sandy islands such as Spectacle Island and Pelican Island have a tropical lagoon-like look to them as they sit in the tidal path of Swansea Channel, which filters the sand and creates a pristine environment. Stop by for a dip and a picnic.

Start living like the locals at visitlakemac.com.au.