Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

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Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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Soak in Australia’s best views from these 9 hotels

(Credit: Hilton Surfers Paradise)

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    A new generation of Hilton hotels is reshaping Aussie getaways, pairing the brand’s signature comfort with some of the most spectacular outlooks in the country.

    When life calls for a reset, there’s nothing quite like checking into a hotel where the view does all the heavy lifting. From spectacular outback landscapes and mountain peaks to shimmering seas, these are the best Hilton hotels for sinking into comfort while soaking up unforgettable vistas from your window.

    1. DoubleTree by Hilton Alice Springs

    DoubleTree by Hilton Alice Springs
    Enjoy panoramas of the MacDonnell Ranges.

    With panoramas of the MacDonnell Ranges from its Mountain View rooms, DoubleTree by Hilton Alice Springs makes the most of its dramatic Red Centre setting. Set on the banks of the Todd River next door to Alice Springs Golf Club, the hotel offers a relaxed base for exploring the region’s natural attractions, including Alice Springs Desert Park and Anzac Hill, both within a 10-minute drive. An outdoor pool overlooks leafy gardens inhabited by a resident peacock, while tennis courts, a fitness centre and an on-site restaurant round out the resort-style appeal.

    2. Hilton Garden Inn Busselton

    Hilton Garden Inn busselton
    Wake to views of the ocean in Busselton.

    Sitting on the foreshore a seashell’s throw from Busselton Jetty, Hilton Garden Inn Busselton puts one of Western Australia’s most celebrated coastal outlooks front and centre. Guests staying in Ocean View Rooms wake to views of Geographe Bay and the Indian Ocean, while Balcony rooms further enhance the experience, inviting guests to step outside and soak up the sea breeze. For a different perspective, Town View Rooms overlook Busselton’s distinctive peppermint trees. The hotel is perfectly positioned for seaside strolls and easy access to the town centre, with a heated outdoor pool, fitness centre and contemporary dining.

    3. Hilton Cairns

    view from a room at Hilton Cairns
    Check into Hilton Cairns and soak in the beauty.

    In a prime position on the Esplanade, Hilton Cairns gives you front-row views over Trinity Inlet, framed by palm trees and passing cruise ships, or across the lush, mountainous backdrop of the hinterland. In addition to its waterfront setting, guests can unwind beside the lagoon-style pool, stay active in the fitness centre and enjoy a selection of on-site dining and bar spaces, while the Executive Lounge offers another relaxed vantage point over the tidal estuary. Opt for a private balcony room to maximise the unobstructed views.

    4. DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Cairns

    DoubleTree by Hilton Cairns
    Choose from rooms looking towards the water or the ranges.

    Just down the Esplanade, DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Cairns offers similar panoramas, with rooms looking towards the water or the jungle-clad ranges beyond the city – many featuring private balconies. The hotel leans into its tropical setting with landscaped gardens and an enticing outdoor pool, perfect for cooling off after a day exploring the reef or rainforest. Guests can dine at on-site restaurants or linger over drinks at the bar, while a 24-hour fitness centre keeps routines intact. With modern rooms and that signature Hilton comfort, the hotel balances resort-style ease in a central location a short stroll from the lagoon and city sights.

    5. Hilton Darwin

    Hilton Darwin
    Opt for Harbour View Rooms or Suites at Hilton Darwin.

    Take in the Top End horizon from Harbour View Rooms or Suites on the upper levels of Hilton Darwin. On Level 20, the city’s only Executive Lounge is the place to be at dusk, where canapés and cocktails are served against a cinematic sky. Set high above the city, the hotel’s outdoor pool invites a leisurely swim, complemented by a fitness centre for those keen to keep moving indoors. Dining spans PepperBerry, showcasing modern Australian cuisine with native bush spices, to the immersive Le Petit Chef experience, plus light bites and drinks in the stylish bar and lounge.

    6. DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade Darwin

    DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade Darwin
    Watch sunsets over Darwin’s Esplanade.

    Positioned right on the foreshore, DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade Darwin offers a more laid-back alternative near the waterfront parklands. Book an upper-floor ocean-facing room to make the most of the harbour view, especially golden at sunset. King Executive Suites elevate the experience further, with private rooftop verandahs. Guests can relax by the large outdoor pool made for tropical lounging, plus there’s a fitness centre and the Aqua Restaurant and bar, which spills onto an alfresco terrace.

    7. Hilton Garden Inn Darwin

    Hilton Garden Inn Darwin
    Garden, pool and Esplanade views await.

    Also located on the Esplanade, Hilton Garden Inn Darwin places you right on the edge of the harbour. From the outset, it feels tailored for easy Darwin living, with an outdoor pool, all-day dining at Together & Co, a fitness centre and a 24-hour snack shop for grab-and-go essentials. Upper-level Harbour View Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and Juliet balconies with unobstructed views of the water. Inside, rooms are modern and practical, with smart TVs, workspaces, Wi-Fi access and contemporary bathrooms. Guests also have access to free parking and a self-service laundry, making for an easy and hassle-free stay.

    8. Hilton Surfers Paradise Hotel & Residences

    hilton hotels surers paradise deluxe ocean view residence gold coast
    Look over the iconic Surfers Paradise.

    Set in the heart of Australia’s holiday playground, Hilton Surfers Paradise Hotel & Residences captures the essence of the Gold Coast. Floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies offer uninterrupted Pacific Ocean views, with Surfers Paradise Beach stretching below. Turn inland and the city skyline sparkles at night, a neon grid rising above Cavill Avenue. Beyond it all, the Gold Coast hinterland drifts into soft, green-blue mountain silhouettes. The hotel makes an excellent base for exploring theme parks and other attractions. There’s also four pools, an award-winning spa, two fitness centres and on-site restaurants.

    9. Hilton Garden Inn Albany

    Hilton Garden Inn Albany
    Look out the room window to Albany Waterfront Marina.

    Poised above Princess Royal Harbour, Hilton Garden Inn Albany distils the salt-licked calm of Western Australia’s south coast into a modern waterfront stay. From upper-level Harbour View Rooms, guests arise to magnificent sunrises spilling across Albany Waterfront Marina, where they can watch boats slip quietly in and out like clockwork. The same views carry through to the on-site restaurant and breezy viewing decks. Inside, it’s all clean-lined comfort, with a fitness centre and a casual eatery showcasing local produce.

    Escape with Hilton. Start planning at hilton.com.