One American’s Journey Through the Outback

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When she came to Australia for a five month exchange program, Liz Cameron had no idea that camping her way from Alice Springs to Uluru (and getting stranded there) would be one of the highlights of her entire trip.

The Outback, Australia’s famous Red Centre, calls to mind quite a few images. Vast open land. Deep red dirt. Kangaroos. But even with these preconceived notions of what the Outback would be like, I had no idea what to expect. As a girl who’d lived in Florida her entire life, the most I’d ever seen in the way of a desert before I came to Australia for five months as an international student was a bit of sand and some cacti in Arizona. So with a small duffel bag, pillow, eighteen other university students from the U.S. and four chaperones, I boarded a plane at Sydney Airport, completely unprepared for the experience that lay before me

 

As we prepared to touch down in Alice Springs, the first thing I noticed about the Outback was its vastness. Even from thousands of feet up in the air, that red earth seemed to stretch on forever. After making our way through baggage claim to pick up our swags, sleeping bags, and various other camping supplies, we packed ourselves into four vans and were on our way.

 

The night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia.

 

After about a two-hour drive, we arrived at our first destination, a campsite in Ormiston Gorge. With only two or three hours of daylight left, we hastened to take a brief hike through the gorge. After making our way through some breathtaking areas, and of course pausing for numerous photo ops with rock wallabies, we headed back to our home for the night. The only part of the night that didn’t go smoothly was when one of the other students and I had to trek down a rocky path to fill a tub with hot water from the showers so that we could wash the dishes we’d used during dinner. Making our way back down that path in the pitch-dark night with the heavy tub semi-balanced between us was a quick initiation into the world of “roughing it". Other than that, the night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia. The next morning, we all woke up early, packed up camp, and settled in for a bumpy ride down long dirt roads. Our destination on day two? Kings Canyon.

 

When we arrived, we went directly to the canyon. After having lunch in the luxuriously paved car park (we were all feeling a bit battered after the less-than-smooth drive) we met our guides for the next two days, Micah and Patrick. As two highly respected members of the local Aboriginal community, Micah and Patrick knew just about everything there was to know about Kings Canyon. After a quick history lesson about the gorge, we embarked on a three-hour-long hike that was gruelling to say the least. They don’t call the first part of the hike, where you have to climb a staggering number of steep rock steps, “Heart Attack Hill" for nothing, take my word for it. With the hardest part of the hike behind us and our legs more or less intact, we embarked on what would end up being one of my favourite memories from the trip. Micah and Patrick told us some amazing stories about the gorge and showed us native plants that could be used for medicinal purposes. The views were breathtaking, the scenery some of the most beautiful I’d ever seen. By the time we got back to the car park, I was exhausted, thrilled, and had a memory card full of photos. Little did I know, the night would be just as exciting as the day had been.

 

After taking much-needed showers and eating inordinately large servings of dinner, we sat around the campfire and then received an unexpected visit from Micah and Patrick, who had brought us a special treat. They had gone hunting and found a joey in the pouch of a kangaroo they’d killed, put in Micah’s backpack, and brought it to our campsite where it would be spending the night with twenty-three more-than-willing babysitters. After agreeing that the joey should be called Bianca (after the character from The Rescuers Down Under, of course) we took turns holding her in her backpack-turned-pouch before splitting into two groups: those that wanted to go hunting with Micah and Patrick and those that wanted to stay at the campsite. I decided to stay at the campsite and was quickly designated as Bianca’s official caretaker for the night. So after the newly experienced hunters returned, I settled into my sleeping bag and swag (we stopped setting up tents after the first night because we couldn’t resist sleeping under that beautiful night sky) with Bianca in tow. Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The twenty-three of us (twenty-four with Bianca) piled into the vans and drove the short distance to Ulpanyali, the community where Micah and Patrick live. While there, we met other Aboriginals who live at Ulpanyali and showed us how to throw spears, cook a kangaroo, and told us some more stories about their culture and the area. After spending several hours at Ulpanyali, we gave Bianca back to Micah, who took her to a nearby kangaroo reserve, and said goodbye to our new friends. Now, finally, it was time to go to Uluru.

 

Even though we’d spent the entire afternoon crammed into the vans, we were all smiles when we finally caught sight of Uluru in the distance. We went straight into the park and soaked up as much of the massive rock as we could. After watching the sun set there, we went to set up camp for the last time. We would be staying at a campsite near the park for the next two nights, since we had agreed that Uluru was where we wanted to spend the majority of our trip.

 

Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The next morning, we rose before the sun and went back to Uluru. Bob Randall, who most people just call “Uncle Bob", invited us to watch the sunrise from a beautiful lookout point in the community where he lives. Uncle Bob is a very inspiring Aboriginal man who, as a member of the Stolen Generation himself, works to help those who were also taken from their families. Uncle Bob also invited us to take part in a traditional sunrise ceremony and then go back to his house for breakfast. Needless to say, it was an incredible experience. We spent the rest of the day exploring Uluru and Kata Tjuta, trying not to think about the fact that we were supposed to fly back to Sydney the next day. Little did we know, Qantas had other plans for us.

 

We showed up at the Uluru airport the next morning only to be told that Qantas had us listed as flying out of Alice Springs rather than Uluru and informed us that we would have to drive back to Alice Springs and fly out two days later. Under any other circumstances, we would have been euphoric at the chance to stay in the Outback for an extra two days, but we were all out of clean clothes and weren’t sure how much more bouncing in the back of the vans we could handle. So with dirty socks and exasperated sighs, we packed the vans yet again and began the long drive back to Alice Springs.

 

Over the next two days, we amused ourselves by exploring the town, going to the incredible market held there, visiting a wildlife park and hanging out at the campsite (which had a laundry facility, God bless it). When we showed up at the airport this time, our group reservation was accurate and we filed onto the plane that would take us back home to Sydney. We were exhausted from the whirlwind of the past week, our clothes were permanently stained red, but we were ecstatic about the experience we had just had. I’ve had the opportunity to see many incredible things during my time in Australia, but the Outback is definitely on the top of the list, lost flight tickets and all.

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Wine, dine and vintage gems: 8 things you didn’t know about Toowoomba

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    There’s more to Australia’s Garden City than meets the eye.

    With Victorian-era and traditional Queenslander buildings, an abundance of manicured gardens and the famous Carnival of Flowers painting the streets in vibrant colours each spring, Toowoomba is one of the most charming regional cities in Queensland Country.

    While its beauty alone is reason enough to visit, there are lesser-known sides to Toowoomba that locals love most, from its burgeoning culinary scene to its artistic flair. Located just a 90-minute drive from Brisbane (or a direct flight from Sydney), it’s all too easy to discover on a long weekend away.

    1. There’s an awesome local arts scene

    tour group walking in front of toowoomba street art
    Find incredible works of art around Toowoomba’s streets. (Credit: Nathan McNeil)

    Australia’s second largest inland city is a flourishing arts and culture hub waiting to be discovered. Over 100 vibrant street art murals and graffiti works decorate the city, and they’re best viewed along Bank Lane and Searles Walk.

    Regional Queensland’s oldest public art gallery can also be found in Toowoomba – it’s home to 20th-century Australian works created by Queensland artists and those connected to the Toowoomba region.

    2. It has world-class farm-to-table dining

    rosalie house aerial toowoomba secrets
    Stop into Rosalie House to wine and dine.

    As a regional city, Toowoomba has direct access to incredibly fresh produce that’s shaping its culinary scene. At sunset, head to the verandah at Rosalie House Cellar Door Restaurant for a grazing-style dining experience and to discover Queensland’s underrated wine scene. Indulge in dishes such as Warilba lamb rump and roasted pumpkin with ginger-roasted potatoes and lime yoghurt, paired with their delicious cool-climate wines.

    For a more relaxed affair, sweet tooths should make a beeline for award-winning The Baker’s Duck. Be sure to try their cult favourite strawberry cheesecake danish; you’ll learn why 35,000 of these treats are sold annually.

    3. Small bars are doing big work

    table spread at Uno Más small bar in toowoomba secrets
    Pop into small bars like Uno Más.

    Toowoomba doesn’t disappoint with fantastic pubs, but discerning drinkers can take happy hour to the next level at one of the city’s impressive small bars. Savour Spanish-style bites paired with a thoughtful line-up of wines at the newly opened Uno Más Tapas & Wine Bar. On Thursdays, head to Cork & Lever to tap your feet to live music over creative cocktails made with their all-Australian gin collection. And enjoy elevated toasties and premium drops at the cosy Press’d Coffee & Wine. Or try newly opened The Book Pour.

    4. There’s no shortage of fabulous stays

    Bunnyconnellen
    Chill out in beautiful surrounds at Bunnyconnellen. (Credit: Salt Media)

    Whether you prefer the buzz of the city centre or retreating to the hinterland, there are stylish stays aplenty to settle into in this idyllic corner of the world. Apartment-style living can be found at Quest Toowoomba; partly housed in a heritage church building in the city, it’s a comfortable and convenient base. And at The Arbour Boutique Apartments, spacious rooms are injected with old-world charm.

    In the hinterland, enjoy bucolic bliss at the boutique Bunnyconnellen, where an 1880s farmhouse and self-contained cottage are backdropped by rolling hills. And at the secluded Ravensbourne Escape, one-bedroom studios, two-bedroom chalets and three-bedroom holiday homes overlook Ravensbourne National Park and the Brisbane and Lockyer Valleys.

    5. It’s a nature-lovers paradise

    extinct volcanic peak Table Top Mountain
    Tackle Table Top Mountain. (Credit: Ariana Potamianakis)

    Toowoomba is hugged by national parks, making it a haven for nature lovers. On its doorstep you’ll find the extinct volcanic peak Table Top Mountain, where keen hikers can tackle the challenging two-kilometre return trail which rewards them with 360° views of the Lockyer Valley and surrounds.

    For a more gentle experience, Ravensbourne National Park offers peaceful walking trails within lush rainforest. It’s a top spot for bird watching as there are over 110 bird species that call the area home, including the paradise riflebird. Crows Nest National Park is home to platypus and koalas, and its refreshing natural swimming spots, like Kauyoo Pool, are a great place to beat the heat.

    6. Wellness enthusiasts are well looked after

    Toowoomba’s cool and calm energy lends itself to a wellness-focused getaway. Slated to open in August 2026, soak in the serenity at Vikasati Toowoomba, a bathhouse oasis with outdoor hot and cold magnesium pools, ice baths and Finnish saunas. Rest and recharge at City Cave Toowoomba, which offers float therapy, infrared sauna and massage services, or visit Kalm Springs for LED therapy, cryotherapy and float therapy.

    7. It’s preserved its 19th-century charm

    inside Queensland Museum Cobb + Co
    Learn all about the history of Cobb+Co.

    History buffs can step back in time at Toowoomba’s fascinating cultural and historical museums.

    Explore 50,000 years of Darling Downs and Toowoomba history at the Queensland Museum Cobb+Co; it’s known for its impressive National Carriage Collection of 47 restored horse-drawn vehicles, which were put to use for Queensland’s urban expansion. Visitors can also try their hand at blacksmithing or leadlighting in heritage workshops, refuelling with traditional scones at the onsite cafe.

    Train enthusiasts can celebrate the golden era of rail travel on a heritage steam locomotive thanks to the volunteer-driven, community-led organisation DownsSteam Toowoomba. Vintage train rides range from a two-hour journey between Toowoomba Station and DownsSteam Railway Museum to an overnight adventure from Toowoomba to the Southern Downs and Granite Belt

    8. There are vintage gems waiting to be found

    Whether it’s to pick up a unique piece for your home or a one-of-a-kind accessory for a loved one, you’re guaranteed to find something special in one of Toowoomba’s antique and vintage stores. Range Antiques sells everything from furniture, rugs and lamps to fine porcelain, jewellery and art, while Toowoomba Antiques & Collectables is a treasure trove of Art Deco, farmhouse, retro and mid-century modern pieces.

    Start planning your weekender of a lifetime in Queensland Country region at queenslandcountrytourism.com.au.