One American’s Journey Through the Outback

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When she came to Australia for a five month exchange program, Liz Cameron had no idea that camping her way from Alice Springs to Uluru (and getting stranded there) would be one of the highlights of her entire trip.

The Outback, Australia’s famous Red Centre, calls to mind quite a few images. Vast open land. Deep red dirt. Kangaroos. But even with these preconceived notions of what the Outback would be like, I had no idea what to expect. As a girl who’d lived in Florida her entire life, the most I’d ever seen in the way of a desert before I came to Australia for five months as an international student was a bit of sand and some cacti in Arizona. So with a small duffel bag, pillow, eighteen other university students from the U.S. and four chaperones, I boarded a plane at Sydney Airport, completely unprepared for the experience that lay before me

 

As we prepared to touch down in Alice Springs, the first thing I noticed about the Outback was its vastness. Even from thousands of feet up in the air, that red earth seemed to stretch on forever. After making our way through baggage claim to pick up our swags, sleeping bags, and various other camping supplies, we packed ourselves into four vans and were on our way.

 

The night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia.

 

After about a two-hour drive, we arrived at our first destination, a campsite in Ormiston Gorge. With only two or three hours of daylight left, we hastened to take a brief hike through the gorge. After making our way through some breathtaking areas, and of course pausing for numerous photo ops with rock wallabies, we headed back to our home for the night. The only part of the night that didn’t go smoothly was when one of the other students and I had to trek down a rocky path to fill a tub with hot water from the showers so that we could wash the dishes we’d used during dinner. Making our way back down that path in the pitch-dark night with the heavy tub semi-balanced between us was a quick initiation into the world of “roughing it". Other than that, the night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia. The next morning, we all woke up early, packed up camp, and settled in for a bumpy ride down long dirt roads. Our destination on day two? Kings Canyon.

 

When we arrived, we went directly to the canyon. After having lunch in the luxuriously paved car park (we were all feeling a bit battered after the less-than-smooth drive) we met our guides for the next two days, Micah and Patrick. As two highly respected members of the local Aboriginal community, Micah and Patrick knew just about everything there was to know about Kings Canyon. After a quick history lesson about the gorge, we embarked on a three-hour-long hike that was gruelling to say the least. They don’t call the first part of the hike, where you have to climb a staggering number of steep rock steps, “Heart Attack Hill" for nothing, take my word for it. With the hardest part of the hike behind us and our legs more or less intact, we embarked on what would end up being one of my favourite memories from the trip. Micah and Patrick told us some amazing stories about the gorge and showed us native plants that could be used for medicinal purposes. The views were breathtaking, the scenery some of the most beautiful I’d ever seen. By the time we got back to the car park, I was exhausted, thrilled, and had a memory card full of photos. Little did I know, the night would be just as exciting as the day had been.

 

After taking much-needed showers and eating inordinately large servings of dinner, we sat around the campfire and then received an unexpected visit from Micah and Patrick, who had brought us a special treat. They had gone hunting and found a joey in the pouch of a kangaroo they’d killed, put in Micah’s backpack, and brought it to our campsite where it would be spending the night with twenty-three more-than-willing babysitters. After agreeing that the joey should be called Bianca (after the character from The Rescuers Down Under, of course) we took turns holding her in her backpack-turned-pouch before splitting into two groups: those that wanted to go hunting with Micah and Patrick and those that wanted to stay at the campsite. I decided to stay at the campsite and was quickly designated as Bianca’s official caretaker for the night. So after the newly experienced hunters returned, I settled into my sleeping bag and swag (we stopped setting up tents after the first night because we couldn’t resist sleeping under that beautiful night sky) with Bianca in tow. Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The twenty-three of us (twenty-four with Bianca) piled into the vans and drove the short distance to Ulpanyali, the community where Micah and Patrick live. While there, we met other Aboriginals who live at Ulpanyali and showed us how to throw spears, cook a kangaroo, and told us some more stories about their culture and the area. After spending several hours at Ulpanyali, we gave Bianca back to Micah, who took her to a nearby kangaroo reserve, and said goodbye to our new friends. Now, finally, it was time to go to Uluru.

 

Even though we’d spent the entire afternoon crammed into the vans, we were all smiles when we finally caught sight of Uluru in the distance. We went straight into the park and soaked up as much of the massive rock as we could. After watching the sun set there, we went to set up camp for the last time. We would be staying at a campsite near the park for the next two nights, since we had agreed that Uluru was where we wanted to spend the majority of our trip.

 

Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The next morning, we rose before the sun and went back to Uluru. Bob Randall, who most people just call “Uncle Bob", invited us to watch the sunrise from a beautiful lookout point in the community where he lives. Uncle Bob is a very inspiring Aboriginal man who, as a member of the Stolen Generation himself, works to help those who were also taken from their families. Uncle Bob also invited us to take part in a traditional sunrise ceremony and then go back to his house for breakfast. Needless to say, it was an incredible experience. We spent the rest of the day exploring Uluru and Kata Tjuta, trying not to think about the fact that we were supposed to fly back to Sydney the next day. Little did we know, Qantas had other plans for us.

 

We showed up at the Uluru airport the next morning only to be told that Qantas had us listed as flying out of Alice Springs rather than Uluru and informed us that we would have to drive back to Alice Springs and fly out two days later. Under any other circumstances, we would have been euphoric at the chance to stay in the Outback for an extra two days, but we were all out of clean clothes and weren’t sure how much more bouncing in the back of the vans we could handle. So with dirty socks and exasperated sighs, we packed the vans yet again and began the long drive back to Alice Springs.

 

Over the next two days, we amused ourselves by exploring the town, going to the incredible market held there, visiting a wildlife park and hanging out at the campsite (which had a laundry facility, God bless it). When we showed up at the airport this time, our group reservation was accurate and we filed onto the plane that would take us back home to Sydney. We were exhausted from the whirlwind of the past week, our clothes were permanently stained red, but we were ecstatic about the experience we had just had. I’ve had the opportunity to see many incredible things during my time in Australia, but the Outback is definitely on the top of the list, lost flight tickets and all.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Vanilla slice to desert racing: 8 must-see Mildura events

Sun-drenched Mildura is set to host a spirited array of events for guaranteed good times.

Nestled on the banks of the Murray River, the rural town of Mildura punches well above its weight for cultural events throughout the year. And it’s the perfect escape for those who like to find award-winning food and wine, ancient outback landscapes and a relaxed river lifestyle all in one place.

Whether you’re an oenophile on the hunt for your next favourite bottle of wine or a motor enthusiast looking for high-octane action, these events are equal parts unique and unforgettable, and offer the best ways to experience the Mildura region.

1. Mildura Fringe Festival

Mildura Fringe Festival mildura events
Enjoy a stellar line-up of arts and entertainment.

Mildura Fringe Festival is gearing up for another huge year of feel-good fun in 2026. From 29 October – 15 November, attendees will find a stellar line-up of arts and entertainment acts, spanning burlesque, comedy, theatre, live music and circus shows. Standouts include the Shake It! burlesque act, hosted by Minnie Andrews, and the first annual Mildura Pride Day. You’ll also find beer gardens, multiple bars and family-friendly venues to get the party started, as well as a tasty curation of food trucks.

2. Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show

Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show mildura events
Taste a selection of the over 800 wines entered into the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show.

Oenophiles and occasional imbibers alike are almost guaranteed to find their next favourite drop at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show. More than 800 wines from nearly 70 regions across Australia are entered into the competition, which has celebrated lesser-known innovative wines and emerging grape varieties for more than 20 years. There are a host of events from 4–7 November, from the Show Tasting – where you can sample as many entries as you like – to a delicious three-course dinner with matching wines curated by renowned Italian-Australian chef and festival co-founder Stefano de Pieri.

3. Cullulleraine Music Festival

Cullulleraine Music Festival mildura events
Listen to local, national and international artists. (Credit: David Sickerdick)

Adored for its ‘salt of the earth’ reputation that fosters welcoming regional vibes, the Cullulleraine Music Festival is a community-driven, not-for-profit music festival that hits all the right notes. Taking place from 9–11 April 2027, the lineup showcases a diverse range of local, national and international artists, including Harry Manx, Cat & Clint and Deep South Brass 8.  Festivalgoers can get down to folk, blues and roots music, and can join immersive experiences such as drumming circles and Celtic jam sessions – all in front of golden sunset views across Lake Cullulleraine.

4. Balloons Over Mildura

Balloons Over Mildura events
Watch the skies light up with colourful hot air balloons.

Mildura is set for a glow-up when this illuminating winter event comes to town. Around June to July each year, the Balloons Over Mildura takes over the skies. Be sure to catch the festival’s popular Night Glow event, where illuminated balloons light up the evening sky in a choreographed display. Order some fairy floss and a kebab and lay down a picnic rug to admire the colourful designs as they soar above. Little ones are also well looked after with children’s games.

5. The Great Australian Vanilla Slice Triumph

The Great Australian Vanilla Slice Triumph mildura
Taste the best vanilla slice in Australia.

The title of ‘best vanilla slice in Australia’ is fiercely contested. With its velvety custard sandwiched between flaky pastry, the iconic Aussie treat – affectionately known as a “snot block” – is a beloved bakery staple for good reason. Since 1998, bakers from all across the country have converged on Commercial Street in Merbein every year to compete in the Great Vanilla Slice Triumph. On 15 August, taste the creamy dessert at numerous stalls, then watch the winner be crowned by six professional baking judges. You’ll also find live music, children’s activities, market finds and vintage cars. May the sweetest treat win!

​6. Hattah Desert Race

Hattah Desert Race
Feel the excitement of Hattah Desert Race, whether you ride or not.

Whether you’re a motorhead or new to the world of racing, experiencing the thrill of off-road motorcycling at Australia’s largest desert race is worth writing home about. In July, the Hattah Desert Race sees nearly 900 junior and senior motorcyclists dash across 300 kilometres of red dirt and sand. Established in 1998, the high-speed enduro race is widely considered the most demanding motorsport race in the country, promising spectators an electrifying weekend up close to the action.

7. Goanna Run

goanna run mildura fashion show
See the best dressed at Goanna Run’s fashion show.

Every year, rev heads from around Australia bring their unique vehicles together for the Goanna Run, a buzzing hot rod and custom car festival. Held from 23–25 October and hosted by the Desert City Rodders, the weekend is a celebration of hot rods, rock ‘n’ roll and food trucks. Marvel at the hundreds of classic and vintage vehicles at Langtree Mall for The Show ‘n’ Shine event, and get some serious fashion inspiration from the ’50s-style fashion show. The events take place next to the picturesque Murray River, so a paddlesteamer cruise is also worth adding to the itinerary.

8. Mildura Easter Powersports Weekend

Mildura Easter Powersports Weekend
Become a rev head at Mildura Easter Powersports Weekend.

Go full throttle over the Easter long weekend with the ultimate horsepower party. The Mildura Power Sports Weekend is a multiday racing series held at Timmis Speedway, Sunset Strip and the Murray River, guaranteeing plenty of action and adrenaline. Fuel your obsession for all things motorsports with ski racing, arena motocross, speedway and drag racing events, and up your motor knowledge with organised fan meet-and-greets and talks. The weekend also features live music and family-friendly entertainment.

Start planning your eventful trip to Mildura at mildura.com.