One American’s Journey Through the Outback

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When she came to Australia for a five month exchange program, Liz Cameron had no idea that camping her way from Alice Springs to Uluru (and getting stranded there) would be one of the highlights of her entire trip.

The Outback, Australia’s famous Red Centre, calls to mind quite a few images. Vast open land. Deep red dirt. Kangaroos. But even with these preconceived notions of what the Outback would be like, I had no idea what to expect. As a girl who’d lived in Florida her entire life, the most I’d ever seen in the way of a desert before I came to Australia for five months as an international student was a bit of sand and some cacti in Arizona. So with a small duffel bag, pillow, eighteen other university students from the U.S. and four chaperones, I boarded a plane at Sydney Airport, completely unprepared for the experience that lay before me

 

As we prepared to touch down in Alice Springs, the first thing I noticed about the Outback was its vastness. Even from thousands of feet up in the air, that red earth seemed to stretch on forever. After making our way through baggage claim to pick up our swags, sleeping bags, and various other camping supplies, we packed ourselves into four vans and were on our way.

 

The night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia.

 

After about a two-hour drive, we arrived at our first destination, a campsite in Ormiston Gorge. With only two or three hours of daylight left, we hastened to take a brief hike through the gorge. After making our way through some breathtaking areas, and of course pausing for numerous photo ops with rock wallabies, we headed back to our home for the night. The only part of the night that didn’t go smoothly was when one of the other students and I had to trek down a rocky path to fill a tub with hot water from the showers so that we could wash the dishes we’d used during dinner. Making our way back down that path in the pitch-dark night with the heavy tub semi-balanced between us was a quick initiation into the world of “roughing it". Other than that, the night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia. The next morning, we all woke up early, packed up camp, and settled in for a bumpy ride down long dirt roads. Our destination on day two? Kings Canyon.

 

When we arrived, we went directly to the canyon. After having lunch in the luxuriously paved car park (we were all feeling a bit battered after the less-than-smooth drive) we met our guides for the next two days, Micah and Patrick. As two highly respected members of the local Aboriginal community, Micah and Patrick knew just about everything there was to know about Kings Canyon. After a quick history lesson about the gorge, we embarked on a three-hour-long hike that was gruelling to say the least. They don’t call the first part of the hike, where you have to climb a staggering number of steep rock steps, “Heart Attack Hill" for nothing, take my word for it. With the hardest part of the hike behind us and our legs more or less intact, we embarked on what would end up being one of my favourite memories from the trip. Micah and Patrick told us some amazing stories about the gorge and showed us native plants that could be used for medicinal purposes. The views were breathtaking, the scenery some of the most beautiful I’d ever seen. By the time we got back to the car park, I was exhausted, thrilled, and had a memory card full of photos. Little did I know, the night would be just as exciting as the day had been.

 

After taking much-needed showers and eating inordinately large servings of dinner, we sat around the campfire and then received an unexpected visit from Micah and Patrick, who had brought us a special treat. They had gone hunting and found a joey in the pouch of a kangaroo they’d killed, put in Micah’s backpack, and brought it to our campsite where it would be spending the night with twenty-three more-than-willing babysitters. After agreeing that the joey should be called Bianca (after the character from The Rescuers Down Under, of course) we took turns holding her in her backpack-turned-pouch before splitting into two groups: those that wanted to go hunting with Micah and Patrick and those that wanted to stay at the campsite. I decided to stay at the campsite and was quickly designated as Bianca’s official caretaker for the night. So after the newly experienced hunters returned, I settled into my sleeping bag and swag (we stopped setting up tents after the first night because we couldn’t resist sleeping under that beautiful night sky) with Bianca in tow. Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The twenty-three of us (twenty-four with Bianca) piled into the vans and drove the short distance to Ulpanyali, the community where Micah and Patrick live. While there, we met other Aboriginals who live at Ulpanyali and showed us how to throw spears, cook a kangaroo, and told us some more stories about their culture and the area. After spending several hours at Ulpanyali, we gave Bianca back to Micah, who took her to a nearby kangaroo reserve, and said goodbye to our new friends. Now, finally, it was time to go to Uluru.

 

Even though we’d spent the entire afternoon crammed into the vans, we were all smiles when we finally caught sight of Uluru in the distance. We went straight into the park and soaked up as much of the massive rock as we could. After watching the sun set there, we went to set up camp for the last time. We would be staying at a campsite near the park for the next two nights, since we had agreed that Uluru was where we wanted to spend the majority of our trip.

 

Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The next morning, we rose before the sun and went back to Uluru. Bob Randall, who most people just call “Uncle Bob", invited us to watch the sunrise from a beautiful lookout point in the community where he lives. Uncle Bob is a very inspiring Aboriginal man who, as a member of the Stolen Generation himself, works to help those who were also taken from their families. Uncle Bob also invited us to take part in a traditional sunrise ceremony and then go back to his house for breakfast. Needless to say, it was an incredible experience. We spent the rest of the day exploring Uluru and Kata Tjuta, trying not to think about the fact that we were supposed to fly back to Sydney the next day. Little did we know, Qantas had other plans for us.

 

We showed up at the Uluru airport the next morning only to be told that Qantas had us listed as flying out of Alice Springs rather than Uluru and informed us that we would have to drive back to Alice Springs and fly out two days later. Under any other circumstances, we would have been euphoric at the chance to stay in the Outback for an extra two days, but we were all out of clean clothes and weren’t sure how much more bouncing in the back of the vans we could handle. So with dirty socks and exasperated sighs, we packed the vans yet again and began the long drive back to Alice Springs.

 

Over the next two days, we amused ourselves by exploring the town, going to the incredible market held there, visiting a wildlife park and hanging out at the campsite (which had a laundry facility, God bless it). When we showed up at the airport this time, our group reservation was accurate and we filed onto the plane that would take us back home to Sydney. We were exhausted from the whirlwind of the past week, our clothes were permanently stained red, but we were ecstatic about the experience we had just had. I’ve had the opportunity to see many incredible things during my time in Australia, but the Outback is definitely on the top of the list, lost flight tickets and all.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Your guide to feeling rested and reconnected after your holiday

The wild, otherworldly beauty of The Grampians offers a perfect place to unwind, slow down and relax.

Not all holidays yield the same result; some are bustling, with endless things to do, events to book and places to see. All great things, but they leave you feeling more tired than before. Then, there are destinations that help you slow down, making real connections and participating in self-care.

Destinations like The Grampians: surrounded by untouched nature, allowing a chance to reconnect with yourself and loved ones at a slower pace.

Discover six science-backed ways to enjoy a holiday and feel restored at the end of it.

1. Practice mindfulness

Hamilton Gallery, the grampians
Be present at Hamilton Gallery. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Mindfulness – the practice of tuning into the present moment – has been found to help in reducing stress, anxiety and depression. One way to practice this art is by immersing yourself in art.

Hamilton Gallery has been in operation for over 60 years, and is not only home to many significant art pieces but also runs workshops and events for all ages to expand their awareness and understanding of art. The gallery is also the custodian of the largest collection of Gunditjmara artefacts held on country.

If you prefer to practice mindfulness through movement, visit Halls Gap Zoo to feed the meerkats – who wouldn’t feel better after focusing on these little guys? Or visit The Grampians Horse Riding Centre for an unforgettable morning ride through 10 kilometres of bushland. Enjoy the soothing movement of the horse and experience the bush anew.

2. Indulge in self-care

two people swimming in the Venus Baths, the grampains
Take an immersive bath in nature on the Venus Baths loop walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

While the term self-care might conjure up images of indulgent bubble baths or a soothing massage, there’s more to it than pampering. Self-care is any action that protects your physical, emotional and mental well-being.

Like taking an immersive ‘bath’ in nature. Do just that on the Venus Baths loop walk – ideal for less experienced hikers or those walking with kids – stopping at freshwater-filled rockpools to cool down along the way.

Serious hikers (we’re talking some rock hopping and traversing slippery tracks) can tackle the Wurgarri, or Mount Sturgeon walk, which rewards the effort with panoramic views from the summit.

For those whose idea of self-care leans more towards arts and culture, a visit to WAMA is a must. Australia’s first national centre for environmental art is home to exhibitions that explore the natural world through film, installation, painting, performance and more.

3. Embrace nature

Boroka Lookout, the grampians
Soak in incredible views over Halls Gap at Boroka Lookout. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Spending time in nature is the ultimate way to soothe your body and mind. It’s been proven to help with all manner of things, from reducing stress to boosting cognitive function. And there’s no better place to enjoy it than among the raw sandstone, wildflowers and native creatures of The Grampians.

Rocklands Reservoir, spanning 6700 hectares, is an ideal spot. Breathe in the fresh air and enjoy the view over Grampians National Park. Cast a line, hire a canoe or follow nature trails along the water’s perimeter. How’s the serenity?

To appreciate nature’s imposing power, head to Splitters Falls. Here, find unrivalled tranquillity. Spring is the best time to visit, when bouquets of native spring flowers greet visitors.

Those with limited mobility will appreciate Boroka Lookout, a viewing platform surrounded by breathtaking views over Halls Gap and the eastern Grampians. Come early to witness a sunrise you’ll never forget.

4. Prioritise Rest

outdoor bathtub at Nook On The Hill
Recharge at Nook on the Hill. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Above all else, a holiday should be an opportunity to recharge, and there’s no better way to do it than to get a good night’s sleep. We don’t need to tell you how essential sleep is, for everything from mental health to strengthening the immune system.

Try Wanderlust Glamping, where guests fall asleep to the soothing sounds of nature after an evening relaxing around the fire pit and wake to your very own green oasis.

For pure luxury in the foothills of the Grampians National Park, look no further than Nook on the Hill – a handcrafted tiny house surrounded by rewilded, lush native Australian bush. It might be small, but Nook on the Hill has everything needed to unwind in style, including an outdoor bath for balmy nights.

For a modern farm stay, book at Mount William Station in the foothills of The Grampians. The station combines old-world charm with modern amenities and easy access to everything this region has to offer.

5. Engage Your Senses

Salingers Cafe, destinations that help you slow down
Indulge in a meal at Salingers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Few human senses are as fun to indulge in as taste. A meal at Salingers in Great Western is the ultimate treat, and not only for the taste buds. The food is excellent, but Salingers’ really unique attraction is the bustling beehive that lives within the walls of the historic building.

For an expertly smoked burger, ribs, or beef brisket, head to Flame Brothers in Halls Gap. Tuck into delicious food while you enjoy the view.

If you prefer your senses heightened by the pump of adrenaline, Grampians Soaring Club offers an eagle-eye view of the Grampians National Park and Pyrenees Ranges from a glider. Take in the sights with a cross-country flight, ridge soar, or altitude wave flight.

6. Connect and reconnect

The Dimboola Imaginarium, Wimmera Mallee victoria
Step into the whacky Dimboola Imaginarium. (Image: Denis Bin)

Making shared memories is a wonderful way to reconnect with old friends or make new ones. These unexpected finds make it easy to discover something new in The Grampians.

Amateur geologists will delight at the Kanawinka geotrail, which covers 60 sites over Australia’s most extensive volcanic province. Visit the Penshurst Volcano Discovery Centre to learn more about volcanic activity in The Grampians, or head to nearby Mount Napier State Park for a trip into the Byaduk lava caves.

Pop in to the Ros McArthur Art Studio to peruse the gardens full of native and exotic plants and flowers that serve as the subjects of Ros’s still life paintings.

For a shopping experience like no other, head to the Dimboola Imaginarium. Far more than a shop, the Dimboola Imaginarium is an immersive experience where you’ll find all manner of quirky bits and pieces. Expect the unexpected.

Put these science-backed holiday benefits to the test during a trip to The Grampians. Plan your peaceful getaway at visitgrampians.com.au.