The Australian Alps Walking Track

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The fourth of Australian Traveller’s epic bushwalks, the Australian Alps Walking Track is also the highest.

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

The mountain lover’s long-distance trail, the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT) rolls up, over and through the High Country between Walhalla, in Victoria’s Gippsland region, and Canberra’s edge.

 

Though it’s the closest of the trails to Sydney and Melbourne, it’s also conversely the most isolated and demanding, requiring detailed preparation and up to six weeks in changeable mountain conditions.

 

Throughout its 680km length, the AAWT never once passes through a town – the nearest thing it sees to a settlement is the Mt Hotham resort (it also passes within a few klicks of Thredbo).

 

For this reason it’s a logistical exercise as much as a physical one, requiring a number of food drops (usually hidden in the bush) to be organised ahead of your departure.

 

First mooted as a walking trail in the late 1960s, the original plan was for a Victorian track only, beginning in Walhalla and ending at Tom Groggin on the NSW border.

 

By 1976 this trail was complete, and it wasn’t until the 1990s that the extension through NSW and into the ACT was added.

 

Though it’s unquestionably spectacular, the AAWT is also an imperfect trail, running close to some of the country’s outstanding peaks, including Mts Feathertop, Bogong, Kosciuszko, Townsend and Tate, but not over them.

 

Fortunately, it’s a simple task to remedy this. A day can be spent walking along Razorback Ridge from Hotham to Feathertop, while Cleve Cole Hut, on the AAWT, is little more than an hour’s walk from Bogong.

 

At Rawson Pass, beneath Kosciuszko, the AAWT makes an unusual dogleg, turning away from the peaks and following the sealed Charlotte Pass road back to Smiggin Holes.

 

Far better is to continue along the Main Range from Rawson Pass, climbing over Australia’s highest peaks and rejoining the AAWT at Whites River Hut.

 

Trail highlights are many, though two or three stages stand out.

 

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

Begin near Macalister Springs, off Howitt Road, joining the AAWT just below Mt Howitt and inching across the narrow Crosscut Saw ridge to Mt Speculation.

 

After climbing to the summit of Mt Despair the terrain becomes even more difficult, with the track unmarked and difficult to follow.

 

Atop the Viking, the AAWT turns east towards Barry Saddle, but you can also complete a circuit back to Mt Howitt by descending to the Wonnangatta River and back up the Wonnangatta Spur.

 

A second section of note is the 76km from Hotham across the Bogong High Plain and Mt Wills to the Omeo Hwy, following snow poles much of the way.

 

It represents about five days in the company of Victoria’s mountain royalty: great views of Feathertop, a climb to Mt Nelse, a detour to Bogong and, finally, views back to the high plain from Mt Wills.

 

This section also provides a great showcase of mountain cattlemen huts, like Wallace’s Hut on the Bogong High Plain (top).

 

For a break from mountains, consider the 50km section from the old gold-mining settlement of Kiandra through the Cooleman area of northern Kosciuszko NP.

 

You’ll have the opportunity to see the Murrumbidgee River in its mountain-stream infancy before climbing over Gurrangorambla Range to one of the High Country’s most unusual features: the porous karst of the Cooleman Plain.

 

This tussocky plain is hole-punched with caves, most notably at Blue Waterholes, where a series of springs pours to the surface.

 

Take a detour (and a torch) west along Cave Creek and you’ll find two of the more impressive caves, while the creek itself is most dramatic just downstream from Blue Waterholes, through the limestone Clarke Gorge to a series of waterfalls beyond.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Dive into summer with hikes, great bites and wellness in The Tweed

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Warmer days call for slowing down and relaxing in nature. Discover why The Tweed is the ultimate destination to do just that.

    As the end of the year draws near, the need for rest and restoration grows ever more prominent. For many, that means heading into nature – and there’s plenty of science to back up the benefits of doing so. It quite literally makes us happier as it reduces stress hormones, lowers our blood pressure and more. And what better place to lean into this feel-good effect than during summer in The Tweed (in the Northern Rivers region of NSW)? Blending sparkling beaches, riverside towns and hinterland villages, this area has nature covered, while also offering top activities and dining options.

    Slip, slop, slap.

    And of course, pack your SPF. We Are Feel Good Inc’s Ultra-Light Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 is a lightweight and fast-absorbing formula that keeps your skin hydrated and shielded, thanks to nourishing Coconut Oil and Vitamin E. But it’s also helping preserve the natural beauty around you on your Tweed vacation, thanks to 30 per cent ocean waste packaging.

    Discover eight experiences that make The Tweed the perfect place for summer.

    1. Underwater worlds

    two people swimming after turtle on the tweed
    Get a chance to swim with the locals.

    There’s something about the ocean that calls to us as humans, and what’s below the surface is even more magical.

    Green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles (not to mention an abundance of other marine life) all use the protected waters around Cook Island, near Fingal Head, as their foraging ground, making it the perfect place to dive and snorkel to spot these adorable creatures.

    Join Cooly Eco Adventures on a guided snorkelling tour that combines unforgettable turtle encounters with an inspiring look into marine conservation.

    2. Farm-to-table dining

    table spread at Potager restaurant
    Treat your taste buds at Potager. (Image: Cara Sophie)

    Respecting the land and nature also means appreciating its abundance of food. From farm-to-table cafes and boutique breweries to river cruises and restaurants championing local produce, dining around The Tweed often means engaging with the best local producers.

    The award-winning Potager Restaurant, part of The Hinterland Collection, is the perfect example; beginning life as a kitchen garden, the passion to champion local producers is woven into every dish. Vegetables, fruit and herbs are picked from the garden or sourced from other local producers, the seafood comes from the Northern Rivers, and meat is sourced from ethical local producers. Even the cocktail list features local distillers.

    Extend your stay with a night (or several) at boutique on-site accommodation, Potager House. This French-inspired country four-bedroom retreat boasts stunning views of the surrounding hills and nearby ocean, as well as a large pool, outdoor entertaining area and infrared sauna.

    3. Water wellness

    Waterguru Mindfulness in the Mangroves summer on the tweed
    Find mindfulness in mangroves. (Image: Matt Johnson)

    You’ll find mindfulness while floating around the mangroves of Kingscliff’s Cudgen Creek at any time, but Watersports Guru offers an immersive experience to help guests do so with more intent. Join a 90-minute guided session on a stand-up paddleboard to reconnect with nature and relax through breathwork, gentle movement and sensory awareness.

    If you’re feeling more adventurous, Watersports Guru also offer Kayak fishing adventures or join a Sea Turtle Odyssey experience.

    4. Restorative seaside stays

    woman relaxing in spa at Halcyon Wellness, halcyon house
    Unwind at Halcyon Wellness.

    The Tweed encourages locals and visitors alike to slow down. To really indulge, a seaside stay is a must. Halcyon House has understood the assignment, blending a wellness philosophy centred on balance and self-discovery with luxurious surrounds. Stay in one of 22 rooms and suites (each individually designed by eclectic interior designer Anna Spiro) right on the beachfront. Book restorative treatments at the onsite spa, Halcyon Wellness, relax by the pool, dine at the hatted Paper Daisy restaurant and just let The Tweed work its magic.

    While Blue Water Motel offers a relaxed coastal escape, just steps from Kingscliff Beach. Settle in stylish rooms, recently restyled by Jason Grant, nodding to the cool of Kingscliff with a fun retro vibe. Hire a bike from reception to explore the surrounding area.

    5. Tasty drops

    Husk Farm Distillery
    Join a Farm to Bottle tour. (Image: Salsingh Photography)

    The owners at Husk Farm Distillery aren’t just about creating high-quality rum: they’re also farmers themselves. In fact, they create one of the world’s only single estate, farm-to-bottle spirits. Join a Farm to Bottle tour to discover the sustainable ‘full circle’ distilling practices used here, and even get hands-on with your own cane knife to help harvest and juice your own stalk of cane. And, of course, a welcome drink plus complimentary tastings along the way.

    6. Rail trail adventures

    Cycle the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.
    Cycle the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.

    Exploring the rolling green slopes and historic towns of the 24-kilometre Tweed section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is one of the best ways to connect with the region’s lush hinterland and interesting heritage. In this section of the trail, discover the area’s railway history at heritage-listed Murwillumbah Railway Station, and traverse by 18 railway bridges and through two railway tunnels.

    Linking vibrant towns and villages with the larger hub of Murwillumbah, this section of the trail is covered in asphalt or compacted gravel, making it accessible for all ages and abilities, from prams to adaptive bikes. 

    7. Linger longer

    surfer at fingal heads the tweed
    Enjoy beachside locations, like Fingal Heads.

    Linger longer at one of the seven idyllic beach, river and creekside locations of Tweed Holiday Parks – including at Tweed Heads, Kingscliff Beach, Hastings Point and Pottsville South. All just steps from the water’s edge, they make the ideal base to unwind, or head out for exploration of The Tweed. Choose from luxury waterfront cabins, accessible cabins, surfari tents (yes, they are basically glamping tents) or spacious sites for caravans, motorhomes and campervans or tents.

    Tweed Holiday Parks
    Stay for longer and indulge in plat at Tweed Holiday Parks.

    Find your feel-good summer in The Tweed at visitthetweed.com.au.