The Australian Alps Walking Track

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The fourth of Australian Traveller’s epic bushwalks, the Australian Alps Walking Track is also the highest.

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

The mountain lover’s long-distance trail, the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT) rolls up, over and through the High Country between Walhalla, in Victoria’s Gippsland region, and Canberra’s edge.

 

Though it’s the closest of the trails to Sydney and Melbourne, it’s also conversely the most isolated and demanding, requiring detailed preparation and up to six weeks in changeable mountain conditions.

 

Throughout its 680km length, the AAWT never once passes through a town – the nearest thing it sees to a settlement is the Mt Hotham resort (it also passes within a few klicks of Thredbo).

 

For this reason it’s a logistical exercise as much as a physical one, requiring a number of food drops (usually hidden in the bush) to be organised ahead of your departure.

 

First mooted as a walking trail in the late 1960s, the original plan was for a Victorian track only, beginning in Walhalla and ending at Tom Groggin on the NSW border.

 

By 1976 this trail was complete, and it wasn’t until the 1990s that the extension through NSW and into the ACT was added.

 

Though it’s unquestionably spectacular, the AAWT is also an imperfect trail, running close to some of the country’s outstanding peaks, including Mts Feathertop, Bogong, Kosciuszko, Townsend and Tate, but not over them.

 

Fortunately, it’s a simple task to remedy this. A day can be spent walking along Razorback Ridge from Hotham to Feathertop, while Cleve Cole Hut, on the AAWT, is little more than an hour’s walk from Bogong.

 

At Rawson Pass, beneath Kosciuszko, the AAWT makes an unusual dogleg, turning away from the peaks and following the sealed Charlotte Pass road back to Smiggin Holes.

 

Far better is to continue along the Main Range from Rawson Pass, climbing over Australia’s highest peaks and rejoining the AAWT at Whites River Hut.

 

Trail highlights are many, though two or three stages stand out.

 

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

Begin near Macalister Springs, off Howitt Road, joining the AAWT just below Mt Howitt and inching across the narrow Crosscut Saw ridge to Mt Speculation.

 

After climbing to the summit of Mt Despair the terrain becomes even more difficult, with the track unmarked and difficult to follow.

 

Atop the Viking, the AAWT turns east towards Barry Saddle, but you can also complete a circuit back to Mt Howitt by descending to the Wonnangatta River and back up the Wonnangatta Spur.

 

A second section of note is the 76km from Hotham across the Bogong High Plain and Mt Wills to the Omeo Hwy, following snow poles much of the way.

 

It represents about five days in the company of Victoria’s mountain royalty: great views of Feathertop, a climb to Mt Nelse, a detour to Bogong and, finally, views back to the high plain from Mt Wills.

 

This section also provides a great showcase of mountain cattlemen huts, like Wallace’s Hut on the Bogong High Plain (top).

 

For a break from mountains, consider the 50km section from the old gold-mining settlement of Kiandra through the Cooleman area of northern Kosciuszko NP.

 

You’ll have the opportunity to see the Murrumbidgee River in its mountain-stream infancy before climbing over Gurrangorambla Range to one of the High Country’s most unusual features: the porous karst of the Cooleman Plain.

 

This tussocky plain is hole-punched with caves, most notably at Blue Waterholes, where a series of springs pours to the surface.

 

Take a detour (and a torch) west along Cave Creek and you’ll find two of the more impressive caves, while the creek itself is most dramatic just downstream from Blue Waterholes, through the limestone Clarke Gorge to a series of waterfalls beyond.

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8 experiences to get the most out of Victoria’s Great Ocean Road

Beyond the winding bitumen and coastal views lies another side to Victoria’s most famous route.

There’s something hypnotic about this stretch of Victoria’s coast. Maybe it’s the way the road hugs the ocean so tightly, or how the cliffs catch the sun in colours you can’t name. Or, for local Victorians who drove this route as kids, maybe it’s the memories of winding through the impossibly tall trees as they seemingly guide you on your journey like wooden guardian angels. Most travellers know it for the 12 Apostles, but there are plenty of alternate experiences on the Great Ocean Road equally as worthy of your time.

So, next time you’re in that neck of the woods, park that car, stretch those legs and try these experiences.

1. Discover living culture at Budj Bim

Budj Bim Cultural Landscape Tourism
Walk across the world’s oldest known aquaculture system. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Breakaway Creek’s Budj Bim Cultural Landscape is a masterclass in educational storytelling. Join a guided tour with Budj Bim Cultural Landscape Tourism to walk across the world’s oldest known aquaculture system, where the Gunditjmara people built sophisticated eel traps and stone channels more than 6,000 years ago.

Budj Bim’s aquaculture system predates Egypt’s pyramids by roughly 2,000 years, making it one of the oldest examples of human engineering on Earth. If that’s not enough to get your history-loving family members involved in this road trip, we’re out of ideas.

2. Unwind in the hot springs at Warnambool

woman relaxing at Deep Blue Hot Springs
Let mineral-rich water heal you.

If your legs need a break after a long drive, Deep Blue Hot Springs is your remedy. The geothermal pools sit just metres from the coastline, filled with mineral-rich water that bubbles up from deep underground. Move between open-air baths, waterfall pools and quiet zones made for meditation.

The water in Deep Blue’s geothermal pools comes from an ancient aquifer nearly 850 metres below the Earth’s surface, which, in non-scientific terms, means it’s far more likely to have healing properties than the mineral water you’d find at the supermarket.

3. Take to the air at Princetown

12 Apostles Helicopters flight alternate experiences on the Great Ocean Road
See an icon from a different view.

You may have seen the Twelve Apostles from the trusty viewing platform, but a helicopter flight with 12 Apostles Helicopters shows you just how sprawling and rugged this coastline really is.

The trip covers everything from Port Campbell to London Bridge (not to be confused with the UK’s own), giving you a rare chance to watch waves carving the limestone cliffs from above. It’s worth noting that the limestone stacks of the Twelve Apostles are said to erode by roughly two centimetres each year, so the longer you leave it, the less of the Apostles you’ll see.

4. Step into the past at Flagstaff Hill

Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village and Museum
Visit a time of yore.

Continue the tour through Warnambool at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village and Museum , a recreated 19th-century port town. Hear stories from the days when shipwrecks were as common as seagulls, with an astounding 180 ships believed to have sunk along the Shipwreck Coast in less than five years.

The night show, complete with lights, sound, and sea spray, brings the coastline’s most dramatic stories to life.

If you’re staying the night, Simon’s Waterfront offers relaxed dining with fresh local seafood and oceanfront views. Order the catch of the day and toast to the sailors who never made it ashore.

5. Learn to surf in Torquay, Lorne, or Anglesea

kid having a lesson with Go Ride A Wave
Learn how to hang 10. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Whether you’ve surfed before or can barely stand on a board, Go Ride A Wave will have you upright in no time. Torquay’s calm beaches are ideal for first-timers, while Lorne and Anglesea bring a bit more energy for those unafraid to get dunked.

Bells Beach, just down the road from Torquay, has even hosted the world’s longest-running professional surfing competition since 1962. So, for those eager to have a gander at pros using surfboards like they’re an additional appendage, the competition usually runs sometime in autumn.

6. Tackle the trails in Forrest

Barwon Flow Trails Otways Flow MTB
Hire a bike and explore MTB trails through the Otways.

Forrest is a haven for mountain bikers thanks to an expansive network of trails through stunning natural scenery. The Forrest trail network has almost 100 kilometres of singletrack across 36 trails, so there’s something for every level of rider. That’s including more than 60 kilometres of purpose-built mountain bike trails winding through the Otways’ dense forest. Cycle through ancient myrtle beech trees and towering tree ferns, with smaller ferns and soft mosses forming a carpet at your feet.

Hire a bike from Forrest MTB Hire and take your pick from easy, scenic rides to more challenging singletracks, such as Red Carpet or Rollercoaster.

7. See wildlife up close in Apollo Bay

bush rat on Wildlife Wonders tour
Get help spotting the locals. (Image: Doug Gimsey)

If spotting koalas and kangaroos in the wild feels like winning the lottery, Wildlife Wonders gives you guaranteed sightings without cages or crowds. Every visit to the sanctuary helps fund the Conservation Ecology Centre which supports endangered species across the Otways, so your business is appreciated by humans and animals alike.

The guided walk takes you through protected Otways habitat where you might spot potoroos (or joey lookalikes for those unfamiliar with a potoroo), wallabies, and sleepy koalas lounging in the trees.

8. Visit the Cape Otway Lightstation

Cape Otway Lightstation
Delve into the tales of Cape Otway Lightstation.

Towering over the sea on a cliff above the Southern Ocean, Cape Otway Lightstation has been guiding ships since 1848. Before the lighthouse was built, Cape Otway was one of the most treacherous points on the Victorian coast, with dozens of shipwrecks occurring in its surrounding waters. Pick the right day, and you may bump into a local willing to tell you about the wreck of Eric the Red .

While at the Cape Otway Lightstation, explore the keeper’s quarters, walk the coastal trails, and take in views that only stop short at the horizon.

And no, contrary to popular belief, the Round the Twist lighthouse is actually located in Split Point, just shy of two hours in the direction of Melbourne. Nothing’s stopping you from embarking on a lighthouse crawl, though.

Plan your next no-stone-unturned journey along this iconic Aussie road at visitgreatoceanroad.org.au.