The cry from the Outback: What Recession?!

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Australian Traveller contributor Gail Liston is based in Alice Springs, and has been noticing that, far from a Global Financial Crisis going on out there, business is actually booming. But why?

In the office of Wayoutback Desert Safaris, the phones are buzzing. When asked why it’s so hectic, Lia Black throws her head back and laughs. “Busy? Someone forgot to tell us here in Alice Springs that there’s a recession going on!"

 

This appears to be the status quo in the Red Centre, where tourism is in no way feeling the global economic crisis squeeze, visitor numbers are up and, best of all, Aussies are flocking to the Outback to rediscover their heritage.

 

“We have haven’t felt the pinch of the recession at all," says Symon Conway, manager of Kings Creek Station, an Outback resort and campground facility near Kings Canyon about 300km from Alice Springs.

 

The message is the same no matter who you talk to: tourism is booming in Central Australia, thanks to the Aussies who are making this the year to see their country.

 

“Compared to last year, we’re probably twice as busy. We’ve had to put on more staff to cope with the pressure. We’ve got more travellers coming through, but the best thing is generally we’re seeing more Australians and less of the bus coaches with Europeans on board."

 

Taking the hint from the Tourism Australia and Tourism NT marketing campaigns aimed at getting us metrophiles to travel at home, more of us are jumping on planes, buses and trains – as well as getting behind the wheel to experience some of the wonders of central Australia. In 2009 you’re more likely to hear “G’day" rather than “bonjour" or “guten morgen" at Uluru, Trephina Gorge, Rainbow Valley or in the Todd Mall in Alice Springs.

 

“The marketing campaigns have been trying to get the Aussies to travel in Australia, so I think we’re seeing the results of that," says Warwick (Rocky) Rock, regional manager for Australian Pacific Touring (APT) in central Australia.

 

“The domestic market has definitely gone up because of these campaigns and there are terrific deals out there for Australian travellers, with operators such as ourselves running two-for-one deals. Why wouldn’t you travel in Australia this year when there are offers like this around?"

 

And Aussies are not likely to let a good deal go wanting, so it’s not at all surprising to find tour buses bursting at the seams with home-grown tourists seeking something a little different from their holiday experience.

 

“Used to be very rare that we got Australians on board," says Ben (Beno) Rogers, a driver guide with Adventure Tours, as he rounds up his 20-plus 20-something passengers who have been enjoying the winter sun in front of the café at Kings Creek Station. “But we’re seeing more and more this year. Everyone on this tour is Australian . . . very unusual."

 

Back at Wayoutback, company owner Don Wait is enthusiastic about the state of tourism in the centre. “Wayoutback is having its best year on record," he says. “It’s full on. It’s fantastic. It appears at this stage the economic crisis hasn’t hit us. I mean, it certainly hasn’t hit us here in Central Australia.

 

“I was at a tourism conference recently and someone said to me: ‘Everyone’s got beaches and Australia’s beaches are good, but you can good beaches all around the world. What you can’t get is what you’ve got here in the Territory.’

 

“It’s unique," he says, “and that awareness is out there about what we have here in the Territory and people here in Australia are starting to realise it. Finally."

 

Kathy and Brett Graham would agree with this. This pair of seasoned tourism industry professionals decided in June to open their own tourist operation, something some may think a little foolhardy in the current economic climate. They started by purchasing a block of holiday units called Hillsview Apartments in Alice Springs and in August launched SEIT Outback Australia, a touring company specialising in small groups and charters throughout the Red Centre.

 

“Since we took over the apartments we’ve had hardly any vacancies," says Kathy Graham. “We don’t see that there’s an economic downturn here at all. In fact, tourist numbers are up and we have strong bookings from the domestic market, and for a new business that’s really good news."

 

Husband Brett says more and more Australians are travelling in their own backyard. He’s not at all concerned about dipping his business toe into the often-fickle world of tourism. “I’ve said right from the start that you have to decide whether you’re going to take the recession on board or press on with life. We decided to ignore the recession, seize the opportunity and move forward – and it’s working ‘cause our bookings are strong."

 

According to Maree Tetlow, chief executive of Tourism NT, more Australians are visiting the Red Centre this year than in the previous two years.

 

“The Red Centre is effectively the heart of Australia and this unique travelling experience offers visitors the opportunity to embark on a journey of self-discovery and wellbeing – to refresh the mind, rejuvenate the spirit and get centred," she says.

 

“This destination is so different. For many, the experience of coming here is akin to an international holiday. Now with more people opting to stay closer to home during their holidays, many more Australians are moving their desire to visit the Red Centre from their holiday wish-list to a holiday booking."

 

The message is the same no matter who you talk to: tourism is booming in Central Australia, thanks to the Aussies who are making this the year to see their country.

 

Tourism NT – www.tourismnt.gov.au

Wayoutback Desert Safaris – www.wayoutback.com.au

Kings Creek Station – www.kingscreekstation.com.au

Australian Pacific Touring – www.aptouring.com.au

SEIT Outback Australia – www.seitoutbackaustralia.com.au

Adventure Tours – www.adventuretours.com.au

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Mornington Peninsula’s storied past: war, shipwrecks and a runaway convict 

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    The Mornington Peninsula is a coastline of contrasts, where convict and military history meets shipwrecks, wild seas and adventures above and below the surface.

    The Mornington Peninsula can be the kind of place where salt-tangled hair feels like a badge of honour – proof you’ve been somewhere wild, raw and real. Peel back the layers and you’ll discover stories that anchor this region to something other than its famed food and wine.

    This land is the traditional Sea Country of the Bunurong/Boon Wurrung people. Long before grapevines were planted and artisanal goods were crafted, the Bunurong Traditional Owners lived in deep connection with the land and sea. Today, places such as Mushroom Reef Marine Sanctuary echo that tradition, with families exploring its rockpools in search of colourful sea stars and crabs at low tide and learning how these fragile ecosystems have been cared for across countless generations.

    a group of people visiting the Port Nepean National Park
    Take in the rugged coastal landscape at Port Nepean National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    A visit to Point Nepean National Park feels like stepping back through time. The fort, built in 1882, protected the narrow entrance to Port Phillip Bay until the end of the Second World War. It was here that the first Allied shot of the First World War was fired – at a German cargo ship trying to escape just hours after war was declared. Nearby, the old Quarantine Station, one of Australia’s first permanent quarantine facilities, established in 1852, still stands. Walking through the hospital and disinfecting complex evokes stories of those who arrived from faraway shores.

    Not far from here is a story of survival that inspired the Aussie phrase ‘you’ve got Buckley’s chance’. In 1803, escaped convict William Buckley vanished into the bush near what’s now Sorrento. Everyone thought he had no hope of surviving, but he reappeared 32 years later, having lived with local Aboriginal people.

    Even the waters here hold history. The infamous stretch known as The Rip, just three kilometres wide at the entrance of Port Phillip Bay, is among the most treacherous waterways. Countless ships were lost here in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and in 1967, Australia’s own Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared while swimming off the coast, never to be found.

    a seal swimming in Port Phillip Bay
    A seal swimming in Port Phillip Bay. (Image: Tourism Australia/Two Palms/Harry Pope)

    But for all its danger, the sea here also holds extraordinary beauty. Dolphins are often seen near Sorrento’s cliffs, while below the surface, seagrass meadows and rocky reefs teem with life. Marine tours offer a viewing to this underwater wonderland, while back on terra firma, walking trails lead along beaches, through coastal scrub, and over rock pools.

    And if you think you’ll forget about the Mornington Peninsula once you’ve left? You’ve got Buckley’s chance.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    the suite interior at InterContinental Sorrento
    Luxury interiors at the historic InterContinental Sorrento. (Image: Greg Elms)

    Point Nepean Discovery Tents is immersive glamping beside the historic Quarantine Station. Or upgrade to luxury at the 1875-built InterContinental Sorrento.

    Playing there

    an aerial view of Cape Schanck Lighthouse
    Make your way to the Cape Schanck Lighthouse. (Image: Tourism Australia/Two Palms/Harry Pope)

    Bayplay Adventure Tours offer eco-adventures from snorkelling with sea dragons to kayaking with dolphins and cycling Point Nepean. Cape Schanck Lighthouse is fascinating to explore on a guided tour, which takes you into the lighthouse and keeper’s cottage.

    Eating there

    Portsea Hotel is a beautifully restored 1876 Tudor-style pub right on the beach, serving seasonal local fare.