The many styles of accommodation in the Australian Outback

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The Australian Outback caters to all travel habits, Peter Robinson explores the six star to the no star Outback accommodation options.

Driving your own 4WD to the outback (and back) is one of the great satisfactions in life.

 

Coming home with a filthy, dirty, mud-encrusted or animal-dented car also sticks it up those aforementioned do-gooders who want to run you out of town for owning a 4WD in the city. And, since water restrictions practically make it illegal to wash your car these days, you should feel free to let that outback style linger.

 

Surprisingly, much of the outback can be toured in total luxury. Try El Questro in the Kimberley for starters. Stay at the homestead and enjoy fine food, helicopter flights, barramundi fishing and a host of other treats. This is one of the most expensive and exclusive places in Australia.

 

Luxury tented camps with full amenities and ensuites are springing up. Shabby motels are giving way to luxury cottages or farmstays.

 

In the Flinders Ranges, try Wilpena Pound Resort and Rawnsley Park Station. At the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna there’s legendary bush food and great rooms. Bamurru Plains on the Mary River floodplains in the NT is luxury on a working buffalo station, and at Uluru, Longitude 131 has won international acclaim. At the other end of the spectrum, you can take a swag and sleep under the stars.

 

Adventure is out there for the taking, but first you should have a vehicle that’s suited to the job. A soft-roader or SUV isn’t up to the task if you want the freedom to travel to most great outback destinations.

 

You and your 4WD need to ford rivers, mount rich red dunes, climb giant sandhills and handle the tyre-shredding punishment that the worst tracks can present. On this score, a comprehensive 4WD training course (see previous page) is highly recommended – and don’t forget the co-driver. Emergency, safety and survival information is essential.

 

A turbo-diesel vehicle is best for the range and durability afforded; just make sure you don’t own a lemon. It’s a long way to the nearest dealer for warranty service. Plan your journey – it’ll take longer than you think.

 

Grey Nomads take a year or more for their retirement lap of Australia, then come home to prepare another trip to fill in any gaps. At the other end of the scale, parents of young children should think carefully about long weeks on outback roads (you might have to wean them off TV first).

 

It’s a huge country out there, and almost all of it is outback. You don’t need to embark on the expedition of a lifetime to unleash the pioneering spirit – this is a pilgrimage we all need.

 

Just grab your Akubra, camera, Red Centre map and be prepared to get your 4WD dirty . . .

 

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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The Gold Rush town that’s become Victoria’s best country escape for foodies

    Jocelyn Pride Jocelyn Pride
    The well-preserved Gold Rush town where an idyllic country vibe meets the best of city living.

    Cafe culture

    ‘Slow down’ is the mantra of Tortoise Espresso, and it’s apt for anyone visiting town. This local coffee hangout was the brainchild of Lloyd Meadows, who at 16 started it as a hole in the wall of an old pub. Five years on, it graces a fine shopfront with a menu of around 60 different coffees. Other one-off centrally located daytime cafes, such as Saffs, Togs, Saint Florian and Lazy Bones, are tucked into historic buildings and serve creative menus featuring local produce. A personal favourite is Origini, where chef Luca Sartori brings a taste of northern Italy to his rustic restaurant. For the best banh mi outside Vietnam head to Super Hero, and the pastries at Johnny Baker are legendary.

    the Saint Florian Cafe, Castlemaine
    Saint Florian is one of many businesses tucked away in a historic building. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    On the town’s fringe you’ll find some treasured cafes: Blackbird. Grist, Doveton Corner Store, and the cosy Aitken’s Corner. The Mill precinct also brings another dimension to Castlemaine. Located directly opposite the beautiful Botanical Gardens, this once-derelict woollen mill is a hive of creativity and collaboration. Retaining an industrial feel, it is home to a myriad of 44 unique businesses, galleries and studios that stretch over the three-hectare site.

    Brilliant brews, bars and food

    diners at The Mill, Castlemaine
    The Mill is home to many local businesses. (Image: Visit Victoria/Michelle Jarni)

    The Mill is also home to one of Castlemaine’s bespoke breweries, Shedshaker Brewing Company and Taproom. Within the sensitively restored walls of the oldest part of the building (circa 1875), small-batch, handcrafted beer features alongside fine wholesome food and live music.

    A more recent newcomer to the brewing scene is Love Shack. Starting small as a laneway pop-up in 2021, visionaries Conna Mallett and Harry Cox were armed with a Melbourne beer culture pedigree, which helped them create a great new ‘pub’ that feels as though it’s been there since the 1850s. Other atmospheric bars and restaurants are dotted around town – Grafting Cellars for local wines by the pour; buzzy Mostyn Street Cellars; Table Records plays vinyl on weekends; and the quirky Maurocco bar is not to be missed.

    food and drinks at Love Shack Public Bar & Bistro, Castlemaine
    The nostalgic Love Shack Public Bar & Bistro serves comfort food. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    For food you’ll write home about, the hatted Bar Midland serves exquisite dishes from Victorian-only produce. The freshly renovated Wild is located in the original firestation, Voor Ouker specialises in Indonesian/Dutch fusion, and the Railway Hotel oozes English pub charm.

    the Theatre Royal, Castlemaine
    Theatre Royal is the longest continually operating theatre on the mainland. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

    Much-loved Teatro Regio, found in the magnificent Theatre Royal, is the go-to for pizzas with a twist. As mainland Australia’s longest continually running theatre, this grand dame is also one of more than a dozen performance spaces that add to a rich and diverse entertainment and festival scene.

    pizza at Theatre Royal
    Dine before a show at Theatre Royal. (Image: Tourism Australia/Visit Victoria)

    Quirky country stays

    Quirky, authentic and perfectly located, the Midland Hotel is a private hotel that dates back to 1879. Each of the nine rooms at the Northern Arts Hotel is different and named in honour of an Australian artist. Castlemaine Boutique Accommodation also has a range of properties to suit all types of travellers.