The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1

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Zoe Naylor has taken her first tottering steps in a lifelong love affair with a motorcycle. So if you’ve been tempted by the thrill of the ride and the wind in your hair, hop on and hold tight.

A year ago, if you’d told me that today I’d be riding my very own Ducati, I wouldn’t have believed you. I grew up peppered with horror stories about terrible accidents that scared me off ever entertaining the idea seriously. But later in life and living in Bondi, my partner at the time decided he wanted a scooter to make travel to and from work simpler. So we decided, as a romantic couple thing, to get our licences together.

 

Suddenly my mind was opened up to the potential for new and exciting travel possibilities. I fantasised about becoming the next Mr and Mrs Smith, riding our matching BMWs through the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa, discovering Tasmania with the wind flying through our hair, or cruising the Great Ocean Road on a Harley.

 

We completed our learners together, then bought a Vespa 250 GTSie. My partner rode to work every day but I was too scared by the traffic and ended up not riding the scooter at all. My licence lay dormant for the best part of a year.

 

Then it came time for P-plates. I was no longer seeing the same guy and had three months to go before my Ls expired. It seemed a waste to let the whole thing slide, so I decided to complete the post-learner course and get some private tuition to help build confidence. It was the best thing I ever did. Using the school’s Honda 250 I sat my Ps – one of the most nerve-racking experiences I’ve endured in a long time – and passed.

 

Then I finally took the scooter out. But, since I’d now had a taste of riding a manual, this scooter nonsense just wasn’t going to cut it. I found myself craving the feeling of a more powerful bike hugging the road. It was time for an upgrade.

 

As a woman with few motorcycling friends, I had no idea where to start when it came to choosing a bike. I was steered towards a copy of the Australian Road Rider Bike Buyers Guide, which lists every bike available in the marketplace. I figured if I at least narrowed down the bikes I liked the look of, even if I had no idea about the specs, it would be a step in the right direction.

 

During these early stages I looked at Harleys, Triumphs and Ducatis. I loved the retro look of the Harleys, but figured if I was going to embark on a lifelong motorcycle journey, perhaps that was a bike I could grow into after I’d tried some sportier styles.

 

Then I went to Fraser Motorcycles in Concord. And this is where my life changed. Not since Cosmopolitan Shoes in Double Bay have I fallen in love with a store so deeply. Ladies, I never knew shopping in a motorcycle store could be so much fun! They had the full range of Harleys and Ducatis, which made early comparisons that much easier. Once I settled on Ducati, the next issue was which one? Obviously there was no point putting me straight on an 1198, even though I’m in love with that bike, so taking all the elements of style, safety, power and feel into account, I felt drawn to the pearl Monster 696 as the bike for me.

 

I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing.

 

When the time came to collect my new bike (yeeaahhhhh), I still felt a little nervous about facing Parramatta Rd in peak hour but the team at Frasers were more than happy to deliver it to my home. I’ve never been more excited. It was the best present I ever gave to myself and I now fully appreciate why victims of midlife crises often splash out on a bike.

 

I began with slow, steady rides around Centennial Park, which led to rides around Queens Park, then to Bondi and the city until finally I rode out to Oran Park Raceway and was able to let her rip. It was scary, exhilarating and everything in between; just what I needed to build my courage in traffic and advance to the next stage of my riding. You know you’re alive when you’re burning down the M5 on a Ducati with a semitrailer sitting right next to you. I don’t think I felt the fear, nor the adrenalin, subside the entire way there.

 

Now I’m at the stage where I honestly feel like I’m having a love affair . . . with my motorcycle. I often go down to the garage just to look at it (sad, I know) and every time I start it up and hear that whirrrr of the Ducati engine I can’t wipe the smile off my face.

 

As I write this, I’m in Hervey Bay shooting a film called The Reef and I miss my bike so much that I’m having it trucked up here. So if you’re thinking about getting a motorcycle, what are you waiting for? It has transformed my experience of being on the road; it’s cheap to run, easier to park and so much fun.

 

I finally understand the immense feeling of freedom a motorcycle gives you. I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing. I’m not sure if long trips and spending hours on the bike are my thing, but I definitely look forward to discovering parts of Australia on a motorcycle. Take the plunge, people, and I look forward to seeing you on the road very soon.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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5 of the best day trips from Hobart

(Credit: Samuel Shelley)

    Rachel Lay Rachel Lay
    Hobart has quietly become our coolest capital, but the real wonder lies just beyond the city limits.

    In the cool shade of Kunyani/ Mt Wellington, Hobart has earned a reputation. Home to culture-defining Dark MOFO, the city blends rugged, raw wilderness and rule-breaking galleries. But, step beyond the thrumming capital’s border and you’ll find a new perspective: historic towns, Jurassic-era cliffs and a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. Fill your days with epicurean odysseys and wild scenery on the best day trips from Hobart.

    Where to stay

    Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick hotel
    Elevate your Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick.

    Behind every good road trip is the perfect home base. Somewhere central to review your camera roll, make the most of Hobart’s dining scene and relax before setting off again.

    For modern, Tasmanian-inspired design, book a stay at the Movenpick Hotel Hobart. Standing at the Salamanca Markets, look to the Hobart skyline, and the award-winning hotel will catch your eye. As the third-tallest building in the CBD, the views across the harbour toward Antarctica are totally unique from your room. Here, end each day at the daily free chocolate hour (plus a free Movenpick ice cream for the little ones).

    For a more budget-conscious option, head to the picture book, sandstone buildings of Macquarie Street. Nestled along the buzzing, historic streetscape, you’ll find Tasmania’s biggest hotel: the Ibis Styles. Return home each day to defrost in one of the hotel’s two saunas. Make use of the proximity to MONA, or take an easy stroll to the candy-coloured cottages of Battery Point between your adventures.

    1. Bruny Island

    Bruny Island Neck is an isthmus of land connecting north and south Bruny Island.
    Begin your adventure with a climb and a view. (Credit: Elise Weaver)

    Craggy cliffs and tropical-hued, white sand beaches signal your arrival to Bruny Island/ Lunawanna-Alonnah.

    Start your day trip at the island’s most iconic spot, the Neck Game Reserve. Scale the Trunganini steps to gaze out over the teensy stretch of land that juts through the sea connecting the two ends of the island.

    Catch a rare glimpse of the white-furred wallabies that call Bruny Island home at Adventure Bay. Then, for ocean-fresh oysters, pull into the drive-thru window at Get Shucked. Sample Bruny Island cheese at the cellar door before catching the ferry home with an esky full of local produce.

    2. Mount Wellington

    Mount Wellington Summit tasmania
    Climb through alpine forest to the summit. (Credit: Samuel Shelley)

    At 1271 metres, Mount Wellington watches protectively over Hobart. Follow the winding road to climb through alpine forest and tufts of snow to reach the summit. Gaze down over Hobart and out to sea, or over your shoulder to the southwestern wilderness.

    Reset your adrenaline with a mountain bike ride back down. Or, make like the locals and head into the mountain on foot. Try the hike to the Jurassic-period Organ Pipes, which slips under the mountain’s magnificent dolerite cliffs (perfect for families thanks to the trail’s minimal incline).

    For a view of Mount Wellington itself, hike nearby Cathedral Rock.

    2. Port Arthur

    Port Arthur tasmania
    Wander through convict-built grounds and gardens. (Credit: Alastair Bett)

    Constructed entirely by convicts, the manicured gardens and penal buildings of Port Arthur offer a day trip that practically hums with history.

    The rugged, seagirt location was chosen for its difficult escape conditions. Now, you can cruise the coast below the towering, jagged cliffs of the Tasman National Park or wander the sloping fields of fragrant lavender.

    Tickets to Port Arthur include a walking tour and harbour cruise. See the Isle of the Dead where 1000 men are buried in marked and unmarked graves. And Point Puer, Britain’s first prison for children.

    3. Launceston

    Duck Reach Power Station Bridge Cataract Gorge launceston
    Walk the sunlit paths of Cataract Gorge. (Credit: Nick H Visuals)

    You’ll find Launceston at the confluence of three rivers after an easy 2.5-hour drive from Hobart. Launceston is a patchwork of old and new. Here, heritage streetscapes meet modern architecture.

    Visit Cataract Gorge, the green, sun-dappled heart of the town and sacred meeting point for Tasmania’s indigenous communities. Pull up at roadside produce stalls that dot the Tamar Valley, or dine out. Launceston is, after all, a UNESCO City of Gastronomy.

    Should the local wine scene persuade you, simply extend your time in Launceston at Peppers Silo (but definitely at least stop by the onsite restaurant, Grain of the Silo, for a farm fresh menu) or Mercure Launceston before heading back to Hobart.

    4. Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

    woman with wombat at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary
    Snap a cuddle-worthy encounter. (Credit: Tourism Australia)

    Take a 35-minute drive from your hotel and you’ll find Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary. This social enterprise is run by a team of extremely passionate Tasmanians with a mission to look after critically endangered species who have found sanctuary here after facing extinction on the mainland.

    Choose to wander the sanctuary at your own pace or join a guided tour (free with your ticket) to come face to face with Tassie’s most iconic species. Tasmanian Devils, wombats and echidnas are part of the free tour. You can book up close encounters with your favourite animals, too.

    5. Richmond Village & Coal River Valley

    Richmond is a picture-perfect town in the Coal River Valley wine region, offering a glimpse into early colonial life, one of the best day trips from Hobart.
    Trace the river through history and wine country. (Credit: Alastair Bett)

    Richmond is a town that belongs in a snow globe. Fifty colonial-era, Georgian buildings have been painstakingly restored and turned into cafes, cosy restaurants and galleries. Visit Richmond Gaol, said to be the home of a prisoner so vile he inspired Charles Dickens to pen Oliver Twist’s Fagin.

    Then, follow the Coal River as it flows past grassy, duckling-dotted knolls and under the iconic Richmond Bridge, the oldest bridge in Australia. From the crest of the bridge, see the oldest Catholic Church in Australia. The river crawls past many cellar doors, perfect for a day of wine tasting.