The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1

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Zoe Naylor has taken her first tottering steps in a lifelong love affair with a motorcycle. So if you’ve been tempted by the thrill of the ride and the wind in your hair, hop on and hold tight.

A year ago, if you’d told me that today I’d be riding my very own Ducati, I wouldn’t have believed you. I grew up peppered with horror stories about terrible accidents that scared me off ever entertaining the idea seriously. But later in life and living in Bondi, my partner at the time decided he wanted a scooter to make travel to and from work simpler. So we decided, as a romantic couple thing, to get our licences together.

 

Suddenly my mind was opened up to the potential for new and exciting travel possibilities. I fantasised about becoming the next Mr and Mrs Smith, riding our matching BMWs through the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa, discovering Tasmania with the wind flying through our hair, or cruising the Great Ocean Road on a Harley.

 

We completed our learners together, then bought a Vespa 250 GTSie. My partner rode to work every day but I was too scared by the traffic and ended up not riding the scooter at all. My licence lay dormant for the best part of a year.

 

Then it came time for P-plates. I was no longer seeing the same guy and had three months to go before my Ls expired. It seemed a waste to let the whole thing slide, so I decided to complete the post-learner course and get some private tuition to help build confidence. It was the best thing I ever did. Using the school’s Honda 250 I sat my Ps – one of the most nerve-racking experiences I’ve endured in a long time – and passed.

 

Then I finally took the scooter out. But, since I’d now had a taste of riding a manual, this scooter nonsense just wasn’t going to cut it. I found myself craving the feeling of a more powerful bike hugging the road. It was time for an upgrade.

 

As a woman with few motorcycling friends, I had no idea where to start when it came to choosing a bike. I was steered towards a copy of the Australian Road Rider Bike Buyers Guide, which lists every bike available in the marketplace. I figured if I at least narrowed down the bikes I liked the look of, even if I had no idea about the specs, it would be a step in the right direction.

 

During these early stages I looked at Harleys, Triumphs and Ducatis. I loved the retro look of the Harleys, but figured if I was going to embark on a lifelong motorcycle journey, perhaps that was a bike I could grow into after I’d tried some sportier styles.

 

Then I went to Fraser Motorcycles in Concord. And this is where my life changed. Not since Cosmopolitan Shoes in Double Bay have I fallen in love with a store so deeply. Ladies, I never knew shopping in a motorcycle store could be so much fun! They had the full range of Harleys and Ducatis, which made early comparisons that much easier. Once I settled on Ducati, the next issue was which one? Obviously there was no point putting me straight on an 1198, even though I’m in love with that bike, so taking all the elements of style, safety, power and feel into account, I felt drawn to the pearl Monster 696 as the bike for me.

 

I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing.

 

When the time came to collect my new bike (yeeaahhhhh), I still felt a little nervous about facing Parramatta Rd in peak hour but the team at Frasers were more than happy to deliver it to my home. I’ve never been more excited. It was the best present I ever gave to myself and I now fully appreciate why victims of midlife crises often splash out on a bike.

 

I began with slow, steady rides around Centennial Park, which led to rides around Queens Park, then to Bondi and the city until finally I rode out to Oran Park Raceway and was able to let her rip. It was scary, exhilarating and everything in between; just what I needed to build my courage in traffic and advance to the next stage of my riding. You know you’re alive when you’re burning down the M5 on a Ducati with a semitrailer sitting right next to you. I don’t think I felt the fear, nor the adrenalin, subside the entire way there.

 

Now I’m at the stage where I honestly feel like I’m having a love affair . . . with my motorcycle. I often go down to the garage just to look at it (sad, I know) and every time I start it up and hear that whirrrr of the Ducati engine I can’t wipe the smile off my face.

 

As I write this, I’m in Hervey Bay shooting a film called The Reef and I miss my bike so much that I’m having it trucked up here. So if you’re thinking about getting a motorcycle, what are you waiting for? It has transformed my experience of being on the road; it’s cheap to run, easier to park and so much fun.

 

I finally understand the immense feeling of freedom a motorcycle gives you. I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing. I’m not sure if long trips and spending hours on the bike are my thing, but I definitely look forward to discovering parts of Australia on a motorcycle. Take the plunge, people, and I look forward to seeing you on the road very soon.

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8 reasons it’s time to explore Lismore’s vibrant villages

(Image: Visit Lismore)

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    Think you know Lismore? Think again. From pop-up feasts to a buzzing nightlife to a thriving arts scene, discover a new side of the Northern Rivers.

    Scratch beneath the surface of Lismore and its surrounding villages and you’ll discover a side of the Northern Rivers many travellers don’t expect. Here lies a region bursting with creativity, where vibrant street art, innovative eateries and enriching cultural experiences shape everyday life. Best of all, it’s authentic, and can be enjoyed without the crowds. Here are eight reasons why it deserves a closer look.

    1. Nights come to life

    Lismore's vibrant villages have Patrons enjoying a night out at Eltham Hotel.
    Stay out a little longer and experience the vibrant nightlife. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    The Lismore region stirs after the sun sets, with wine bars, pub gigs, pop-up dinners and live music events at atmospheric country pubs and halls. The Eltham Hotel is a hinterland institution, its verandah regularly echoing with rootsy live music. Nimbin Bush Theatre’s Sonic Bloom nights bring pop-up dinners, films and DJ sets. The Channon Tavern hosts weekend sessions, while Il Carretto’s pizza nights fill Clunes Cafe on Thursday nights and Bexhill Hall on Fridays. Rider Taco Pop Up also brings a laid-back Mexican feast to Clunes, where guests spread out on the grass or gather in the old hall to share freshly made tacos.

    2. A thriving arts and culture scene

    Racing on Molesworth Steet, Lismore for the BBCC Lismore Cycling Festival. Lismore's vibrant villages is filled with murals.
    Follow the Art & Culture Trail. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    The Northern Rivers has long attracted artists, makers and free thinkers, and nowhere is that creative energy more evident than in Lismore and its neighbouring hamlets. The city’s Art & Culture Trail shines a spotlight on the city’s flourishing arts scene, linking galleries, studios and public art across the region. Start at the Lismore Regional Gallery, which has a dynamic mix of contemporary works and community-focused exhibitions. Also keep an eye out for events at The Quad, an open-air space that lights up with live music, projections and family-friendly events. Beyond the city, discover the colourful street murals of Nimbin, browse local art at Blue Knob Gallery or get your hands dirty during a clay workshop at Silt Studio.

    3. Boutique shopping

    Inside Two Ravens Antiques & Collectables in Lismore's vibrant villages.
    Uncover one-of-a-kind finds. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    For travellers who love discovering independent labels and one-of-a-kind finds, Lismore and its nearby villages offer a treasure trove of boutiques. Here, you’ll find everything from clothes and hand-crafted trinkets to books and homewares, each store reflecting the personality of its makers and curators. Highlights include Hanging Rock Flowers, where seasonal blooms meet beautifully chosen artisan gifts, and Two Ravens Antique and Vintage, where a collection of objects whisper stories of the past. Little Polli and the Blackbird offers whimsical fashion and homewares, while Folk Modern champions eclectic textiles and global finds and Valley of the Craftsmen showcases refined handmade artistry.

    4. Diverse food offerings

    Bartenders at the The Levee Lounge and Bar, Lismore
    Settle in for an evening of great drinks and live tunes. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    Lismore’s dining scene is celebrated for its paddock-to-plate produce, global cuisines and cafe culture. At Two Mates Brewing small-batch beers are crafted for easy afternoons, often best enjoyed with a food truck bite, while The Levee Lounge and Bar brings a touch of Melbourne-style polish to town, with cocktails and wine served against the hum of live music.

    Heritage bones meet a modern buzz at The Bank Cafe & Espresso, while smoked meats and fried chicken take centre stage at The Stockpot Kitchen. Housed in a former butter factory, Channon Tavern is the ideal place to while away the day on the grass by Terania Creek, and the The Eltham Hotel offers an upscale food menu with old school charm.

    Find Annies Country Bakery in Modanville on Lismore’s Great Pie Trail, serving award-winning pies, open every day, it’s a great stop on a scenic drive on route to nearby national parks and Rocky Creek Dam. Or pop into Clunes Cafe for regular hosted dinners, each with its own unique flair. Listen to live music while you’re there, and maybe even join in a line dance.

    5. Alternative lifestyles reign

    Streetscape of Nimbin with buskers, Northern Rivers
    Discover a place where freedom, art and community are part of everyday life. (Image: The Legendary Pacific Coast)

    This area has long been a free-spirited community, where counterculture values and creative expression shape everyday life. Its roots trace back to the 1973 Aquarius Festival, when thousands gathered in the hills near Nimbin and the one-time dairy town’s once-quiet streets were painted in kaleidoscopic colour. Many never left, establishing communes and laying the foundations of a community built on sustainability and freedom. Events such as the annual Nimbin MardiGrass festival keep its activist, grassroots spirit alive, while continuing to welcome diverse travellers in search of something a little different.

    6. Breathtaking nature on the doorstep

    Person enjoying a walk through the rainforest in Nightcap National Park.
    Step into a world of ancient forests. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    Lismore acts as the gateway to some of Australia’s most spectacular ancient Gondwana rainforests and untouched wilderness. Nearby Nightcap National Park offers UNESCO-listed rainforest walks and waterfalls, while Rocky Creek Dam is a tranquil spot for picnics and birdlife – and you may even spot a platypus if your timing is right. Whian Whian State Conservation Area reveals lush subtropical trails and hidden swimming holes, while the Northern Rivers Rail Trail winds through farmland and forest, passing historic railway bridges along the way.

    7. Boutique stays

    Contained in Nimbin Accommodation.
    Experience award-winning eco stays. (Image: Contained in Nimbin)

    Accommodation in the Lismore region tends to favour character over gloss, with stays that trade uniform luxury for a stronger sense of place and personality. Lismore Gateway Motel and Invercauld House offer easy comfort close to Lismore CBD, while The Eltham Hotel pairs a lively pub atmosphere with individually designed rooms that reflect the building’s heritage character. Nightcap Ridge secluded luxury eco retreat and Rummery Park Campground in Whian Whian State Conservation Area, and Contained in Nimbin’s award-winning eco cabins, all bring you closer to nature.

    8. Form community connections

    Crowds enjoying the Lismore Lantern Parade on the North Coast.
    Celebrate winter solstice at the Lismore Lantern Parade. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    If you are wanting to immerse yourself more in the community, there are some standout events that embrace Lismore’s individuality. Lismore is known for its markets, so they’re a great place to start. The fire twirling at Lismore’s weekly Thursday produce markets makes for a particularly fun spectacle.

    Friday Meet and Make offers relaxed crafting at The Artisans Table, while Fire Twirling in The Quad delivers a high energy evening spectacle. The legendary Tropical Fruits New Years Eve Festival is a bold celebration of inclusion; Lismore Lantern Parade glows through streets with handmade lanterns on the winter solstice and Italian festival LisAmore! brings music and romance to the town.

    Start planning the ultimate getaway at visitlismore.com.au