The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1

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Zoe Naylor has taken her first tottering steps in a lifelong love affair with a motorcycle. So if you’ve been tempted by the thrill of the ride and the wind in your hair, hop on and hold tight.

A year ago, if you’d told me that today I’d be riding my very own Ducati, I wouldn’t have believed you. I grew up peppered with horror stories about terrible accidents that scared me off ever entertaining the idea seriously. But later in life and living in Bondi, my partner at the time decided he wanted a scooter to make travel to and from work simpler. So we decided, as a romantic couple thing, to get our licences together.

 

Suddenly my mind was opened up to the potential for new and exciting travel possibilities. I fantasised about becoming the next Mr and Mrs Smith, riding our matching BMWs through the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa, discovering Tasmania with the wind flying through our hair, or cruising the Great Ocean Road on a Harley.

 

We completed our learners together, then bought a Vespa 250 GTSie. My partner rode to work every day but I was too scared by the traffic and ended up not riding the scooter at all. My licence lay dormant for the best part of a year.

 

Then it came time for P-plates. I was no longer seeing the same guy and had three months to go before my Ls expired. It seemed a waste to let the whole thing slide, so I decided to complete the post-learner course and get some private tuition to help build confidence. It was the best thing I ever did. Using the school’s Honda 250 I sat my Ps – one of the most nerve-racking experiences I’ve endured in a long time – and passed.

 

Then I finally took the scooter out. But, since I’d now had a taste of riding a manual, this scooter nonsense just wasn’t going to cut it. I found myself craving the feeling of a more powerful bike hugging the road. It was time for an upgrade.

 

As a woman with few motorcycling friends, I had no idea where to start when it came to choosing a bike. I was steered towards a copy of the Australian Road Rider Bike Buyers Guide, which lists every bike available in the marketplace. I figured if I at least narrowed down the bikes I liked the look of, even if I had no idea about the specs, it would be a step in the right direction.

 

During these early stages I looked at Harleys, Triumphs and Ducatis. I loved the retro look of the Harleys, but figured if I was going to embark on a lifelong motorcycle journey, perhaps that was a bike I could grow into after I’d tried some sportier styles.

 

Then I went to Fraser Motorcycles in Concord. And this is where my life changed. Not since Cosmopolitan Shoes in Double Bay have I fallen in love with a store so deeply. Ladies, I never knew shopping in a motorcycle store could be so much fun! They had the full range of Harleys and Ducatis, which made early comparisons that much easier. Once I settled on Ducati, the next issue was which one? Obviously there was no point putting me straight on an 1198, even though I’m in love with that bike, so taking all the elements of style, safety, power and feel into account, I felt drawn to the pearl Monster 696 as the bike for me.

 

I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing.

 

When the time came to collect my new bike (yeeaahhhhh), I still felt a little nervous about facing Parramatta Rd in peak hour but the team at Frasers were more than happy to deliver it to my home. I’ve never been more excited. It was the best present I ever gave to myself and I now fully appreciate why victims of midlife crises often splash out on a bike.

 

I began with slow, steady rides around Centennial Park, which led to rides around Queens Park, then to Bondi and the city until finally I rode out to Oran Park Raceway and was able to let her rip. It was scary, exhilarating and everything in between; just what I needed to build my courage in traffic and advance to the next stage of my riding. You know you’re alive when you’re burning down the M5 on a Ducati with a semitrailer sitting right next to you. I don’t think I felt the fear, nor the adrenalin, subside the entire way there.

 

Now I’m at the stage where I honestly feel like I’m having a love affair . . . with my motorcycle. I often go down to the garage just to look at it (sad, I know) and every time I start it up and hear that whirrrr of the Ducati engine I can’t wipe the smile off my face.

 

As I write this, I’m in Hervey Bay shooting a film called The Reef and I miss my bike so much that I’m having it trucked up here. So if you’re thinking about getting a motorcycle, what are you waiting for? It has transformed my experience of being on the road; it’s cheap to run, easier to park and so much fun.

 

I finally understand the immense feeling of freedom a motorcycle gives you. I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing. I’m not sure if long trips and spending hours on the bike are my thing, but I definitely look forward to discovering parts of Australia on a motorcycle. Take the plunge, people, and I look forward to seeing you on the road very soon.

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From hot springs to tasty treats: your wellness guide to Gippsland Lakes

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Rest and recuperate in the East Gippsland region, a haven of natural hot springs, seasonal festivals and really tasty things to eat.

    It’s about this time of year that the buzz of the summer holidays is well and truly behind us, and the pressures of the day-to-day are starting to pile up. The solution? A proper weekend escape, ideally one with a focus on rest, relaxation and total reset.

    East Gippsland delivers all three in spades. Here, you’ll find charming towns, natural scenery alive with wildlife and easygoing experiences – think steamy hot springs and idyllic lakefront stays that practically force you to unwind.

    The Gippsland Lakes are one of the region’s highlights, a sprawling network of glassy waterways with a seriously calming atmosphere. Spend a few days here, and you’ll be well and truly recharged.

    Here’s where to eat, stay, explore and unwind for a wellness-focused weekend in this gorgeous region.

    Getting there

    aerial of lakes entrance
    Visit lakeside villages like Lakes Entrance.

    East Gippsland is a patchwork of towns, each with its own personality: coastal gems like Marlo and Mallacoota, lakeside villages including Metung, Paynesville and Lakes Entrance and a smattering of inland communities.

    From Melbourne, getting to each is easy. The region can be reached by car in around four hours, just a smooth drive along the Princes Highway.

    If you’re driving to or from Sydney, many of the towns sit along the legendary Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive, which winds its way through Lakes Entrance, Orbost, Marlo and Mallacoota.

    Having a car makes exploring the region a breeze, as you can pull over at farm gates, take scenic detours and go at your own relaxing pace.

    Winter delights

    Bruthen Medieval event at East Gippsland Winter Festival
    Experience that East Gippsland Winter Festival. (Credit: Naomi Rahim)

    Winter is a particularly good time to visit. The East Gippsland Winter Festival is a raucous celebration of wintery food, drink, music and experiences, taking place over an entire month and in different towns.

    Expect re-enactments, games, roving performances and fiery displays at the Bruthen Medieval event. Feast your way through regional bites and watch live wood carving and a hotly contested dumpling-eating competition in the waterside town of Metung. Head to Lakes Entrance for one of the festival’s signature events, Lakes Lights: Gardens of the Galaxy – a slightly cosmic and totally mesmerising display of lights. Or book a seat at the Nicholson River Trestle Bridge Long Lunch. This long-table feast stretches across the entire bridge, with sweeping river views and top-tier local produce.

    Where to stay

    Metung Hot Springs
    Rejuvinate at Metung Hot Springs.

    Metung is also a much-loved destination for natural hot springs – warm mineral pools believed to restore and detoxify the system. Here, you’ll find a network of tranquil springs fed with water sourced 500m below the surface, all at varying temperatures but with a healthy mix of soothing minerals and trace elements. Each looks over the stunning surrounding lakes, only adding to the sense of serenity.

    Extend the relaxation by booking into Metung Hot Springs. The property is home to a collection of glamping tents – either perched on the hillside or overlooking the lagoon – that deliver after-hours access to the springs. These are no ordinary tents; expect plush linens, beautifully curated furnishings, warm service and a complimentary gourmet breakfast delivered daily.

    Alternatively, book a night or two at Idle Lake House – a gorgeously appointed hideaway in Lakes Entrance. The aesthetic is moody, modern and very cool, and the property is situated right on the water’s edge with floor-to-ceiling windows that immerse you in the surroundings.

    Where to eat

    table spread at Sodafish in east gippsland victoria
    Sit down at the floating restaurant, Sodafish. (Credit: We Are Explorers)

    Given its wealth of fresh seafood and exceptional produce, East Gippsland is home to a vast selection of eateries, with options to suit all tastes and budgets.

    For something a little bit fancy, Sardine Dining in Paynesville is a must-visit. The hatted restaurant serves a seasonal seafood-focused menu made with premium local ingredients, while the adjoining wine bar is a top spot for a regional drop and a light snack.

    If you’re after a relaxed bite, Sodafish in Lakes Entrance is your best bet. This floating restaurant sits right atop the water, with a vibrant and fresh menu centred on locally caught seafood. Anything off the menu is delicious, but the whole roasted snapper and locally sourced fish and chips are standouts.

    Or luxuriate with a long afternoon at the nearby Slipway. This waterfront dining precinct hosts a mix of vendors serving casual food, craft drinks and regionally made goods.

    Exploring the great outdoors and local culture

    wild koala in the tree
    Keep an eye out for the locals. (Credit: Tyson Mayr)

    No wellness weekend would be complete without immersing yourself in the beauty and tranquillity of East Gippsland’s outdoors.

    Head to Raymond Island – a small island just off Paynesville – to spot local koalas along the Koala Trail. This two-kilometre stretch is one of the few places where you can see koalas doing their thing in their natural habitat, with more than 200 living on the island. Leave the car in Paynesville; the trail can only be accessed on foot.

    Next, explore the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, which starts in Colquhoun and ends in Lakes Entrance. Across 23 kilometres, you’ll spot native flora and fauna (including lace goannas) and pass by remnants of the tramway that once serviced timber workers in the area.

    Finish up your East Gippsland jaunt with a visit to Gunaikurnai Cultural Hub. The centre houses an Aboriginal Art Gallery displaying contemporary works by Aboriginal artists, and a Bush Cafe serving breakfast and lunch classics and excellent cakes. Pick up a slice and a coffee for your trip back to the city.

    Start planning the ultimate wellness escape in Gippsland Lakes at visitgippsland.com.au.

    The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1 - Australian Traveller