The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1

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Zoe Naylor has taken her first tottering steps in a lifelong love affair with a motorcycle. So if you’ve been tempted by the thrill of the ride and the wind in your hair, hop on and hold tight.

A year ago, if you’d told me that today I’d be riding my very own Ducati, I wouldn’t have believed you. I grew up peppered with horror stories about terrible accidents that scared me off ever entertaining the idea seriously. But later in life and living in Bondi, my partner at the time decided he wanted a scooter to make travel to and from work simpler. So we decided, as a romantic couple thing, to get our licences together.

 

Suddenly my mind was opened up to the potential for new and exciting travel possibilities. I fantasised about becoming the next Mr and Mrs Smith, riding our matching BMWs through the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa, discovering Tasmania with the wind flying through our hair, or cruising the Great Ocean Road on a Harley.

 

We completed our learners together, then bought a Vespa 250 GTSie. My partner rode to work every day but I was too scared by the traffic and ended up not riding the scooter at all. My licence lay dormant for the best part of a year.

 

Then it came time for P-plates. I was no longer seeing the same guy and had three months to go before my Ls expired. It seemed a waste to let the whole thing slide, so I decided to complete the post-learner course and get some private tuition to help build confidence. It was the best thing I ever did. Using the school’s Honda 250 I sat my Ps – one of the most nerve-racking experiences I’ve endured in a long time – and passed.

 

Then I finally took the scooter out. But, since I’d now had a taste of riding a manual, this scooter nonsense just wasn’t going to cut it. I found myself craving the feeling of a more powerful bike hugging the road. It was time for an upgrade.

 

As a woman with few motorcycling friends, I had no idea where to start when it came to choosing a bike. I was steered towards a copy of the Australian Road Rider Bike Buyers Guide, which lists every bike available in the marketplace. I figured if I at least narrowed down the bikes I liked the look of, even if I had no idea about the specs, it would be a step in the right direction.

 

During these early stages I looked at Harleys, Triumphs and Ducatis. I loved the retro look of the Harleys, but figured if I was going to embark on a lifelong motorcycle journey, perhaps that was a bike I could grow into after I’d tried some sportier styles.

 

Then I went to Fraser Motorcycles in Concord. And this is where my life changed. Not since Cosmopolitan Shoes in Double Bay have I fallen in love with a store so deeply. Ladies, I never knew shopping in a motorcycle store could be so much fun! They had the full range of Harleys and Ducatis, which made early comparisons that much easier. Once I settled on Ducati, the next issue was which one? Obviously there was no point putting me straight on an 1198, even though I’m in love with that bike, so taking all the elements of style, safety, power and feel into account, I felt drawn to the pearl Monster 696 as the bike for me.

 

I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing.

 

When the time came to collect my new bike (yeeaahhhhh), I still felt a little nervous about facing Parramatta Rd in peak hour but the team at Frasers were more than happy to deliver it to my home. I’ve never been more excited. It was the best present I ever gave to myself and I now fully appreciate why victims of midlife crises often splash out on a bike.

 

I began with slow, steady rides around Centennial Park, which led to rides around Queens Park, then to Bondi and the city until finally I rode out to Oran Park Raceway and was able to let her rip. It was scary, exhilarating and everything in between; just what I needed to build my courage in traffic and advance to the next stage of my riding. You know you’re alive when you’re burning down the M5 on a Ducati with a semitrailer sitting right next to you. I don’t think I felt the fear, nor the adrenalin, subside the entire way there.

 

Now I’m at the stage where I honestly feel like I’m having a love affair . . . with my motorcycle. I often go down to the garage just to look at it (sad, I know) and every time I start it up and hear that whirrrr of the Ducati engine I can’t wipe the smile off my face.

 

As I write this, I’m in Hervey Bay shooting a film called The Reef and I miss my bike so much that I’m having it trucked up here. So if you’re thinking about getting a motorcycle, what are you waiting for? It has transformed my experience of being on the road; it’s cheap to run, easier to park and so much fun.

 

I finally understand the immense feeling of freedom a motorcycle gives you. I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing. I’m not sure if long trips and spending hours on the bike are my thing, but I definitely look forward to discovering parts of Australia on a motorcycle. Take the plunge, people, and I look forward to seeing you on the road very soon.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

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8 Red Centre locations to explore after seeing the new movie, Kangaroo

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    Spend a few days visiting the real-life Central Australian locations that inspired the new film everyone is talking about, and discover why Alice Springs is such an important part of Australian culture.

    In the credits of the new Australian film Kangaroo, the first name under ‘cast’ should read ‘The Northern Territory’. Not only is Alice Springs (and the surrounding landscape) integral to the movie itself, but the spiritual heart of Australia and its local Indigenous owners also inform the look and feel of every frame, explains Producer Trisha Morton-Thomas of Brindle Films, who also plays Charlie’s grandmother Gwennie.

    “By setting Kangaroo in Alice Springs (Mparntwe), the film embraces how visible Aboriginal people are here, and the living Aboriginal culture that is woven through this community,” she explains.

    still from kangarro film
    See Kangaroo, then visit the real-life filming locations.

    And while shooting in such a sacred part of the Northern Territory required extra planning, it was something the cast and crew were highly invested in.

    “There are incredibly significant sacred sites and places of deep cultural stories in the area, that at times are very gender-specific, which we’ve kept out of the production,” she explains. “Even if overhead drone footage captures a sacred site that isn’t meant to be seen by other people outside of that clan, we’ve made sure to omit it from the film.”

    If Kangaroo piqued your interest in a Central Australian holiday, we don’t blame you. Read on to discover eight places featured in the movie that you can visit in real life – and get planning. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat.

    1. Alice Springs/ Mparntwe

    artist at Many Hands Art Centre
    Visit the galleries of Alice Springs, like Many Hands Art Centre. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr/ Many Hands Art Centre)

    The red and dusty streets of the film’s fictional town of Silvergum were filmed on the outskirts of Alice Springs. And, while the art gallery featured in the film is fictional, Alice Springs is a hub of creativity. See the work of local artists at the Araluen Art Centre, Yubu Napa Art Gallery, Iltja Ntjarra (Many Hands) Art Centre and the famous Tjanpi Desert Weavers.

    2. The Kangaroo Sanctuary & Kangaroo Rescue Centre

    The Kangaroo Sanctuary Alice Springs, the inspiration for the Kangaroo move
    Visit the movie’s inspiration at Kangaroo Sanctuary. (Image: Tourism NT/ Kangaroo Sanctuary)

    Kangaroo was inspired by the journey of Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns, who founded the now world-renowned Kangaroo Sanctuary based in Alice Springs. For lead actor, Aussie Ryan Corr, the animals were central to the movie, alongside the landscapes.

    “The animals in this story were a real calling point for me,” he explains. “What this story tries to tell us about the connection between humans and animals is beautiful.”

    To gain a real insight into the fauna and flora of the Red Centre, you can visit the Kangaroo Sanctuary on a sunset tour, where you might even get the chance to hold a baby kangaroo.

    3. Ormiston Gorge

    woman walking along the edge of Ormiston Gorge near alice springs
    Take a dip in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/ @domandjesso)

    The film captures the raw beauty of the West MacDonnell Ranges, known in the Arrernte language as Tjoritja. This national park is rich in Indigenous culture and stark geological wonders.

    Only a 15-minute drive from Alice Springs, Tjoritja offers visitors the chance to camp, hike and swim among ancient landscapes (most attractions are less than a three-hour drive away).

    Ormiston Gorge, a cooling oasis in among the red desert sands, is one of the most popular destinations, no doubt because of the permanent swimming hole and towering red cliffs. From here, visitors can also embark on the beautiful Ormiston Pound Walk and the shorter – more accessible – Ghost Gum Walk. Bring your bathers – it’s safe for swimming.

    4. Standley Chasm

    woman walking through Standley Chasm near alice springs
    Wander through Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT)

    The 1.2-kilometre walk to nearby Standley Chasm will be a highlight for any visitor as the imposing 40 metre-high chasm walls project strength and ancient wisdom.

    Visit at midday to experience the path illumined by the midday sun. Not only will you fill your camera roll with vibrant red images of the gorge and its intoxicating shadows, but you can also camp nearby in a powered or unpowered site so you can watch the brilliance of the desert stars fill the night sky after dusk.

    5. Simpsons Gap

    three people walking on path through simpsons gap near alice springs
    Walk the trails of Simpson’s Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr)

    Closer to Alice Springs, the photogenic Simpsons Gap is the perfect place to spot the endangered Black-footed Rock wallaby near the permanent watering hole. While swimming isn’t permitted, soaking up the sun and views certainly is.

    Explore the area’s numerous walking trails, appreciate the soaring cliffs on either side of the ‘gap’ and pick out the shooting locations of Kangaroo in the area.

    6. Ellery Creek Big Hole

    aerial of Ellery Creek Big Hole near alice springs
    Dive into Ellery Creek Big Hole. (Image: Tourism NT/ Tourism Australia)

    When it comes to classic Northern Territory landscapes, you can’t go past Ellery Creek Big Hole/ Udepata: tall gum trees sidling up to a refreshing watering hole (fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by rugged red cliffs.

    Swim in the cooling waters, hike the cliff tops, watch for birds and even stargaze as you camp here overnight. It’s locations like this that attracted the film’s director Kate Woods to the project.

    “It humbles you to be in this environment: it’s so beautiful, so old and so vast,” she explains. “I was thrilled to get a chance to … shoot such a beautiful story in the incredible landscape of the Northern Territory.”

    7. Larapinta Drive

    aerial of Larapinta Drive into alice springs
    Drive along Larapinta Drive. (Image: Tourism NT)

    There is no better way to get a feel for how the characters arrived at the fictional Central Australian town of Silvergum than to travel along the iconic state road, Larapinta Drive.

    Connecting Alice Springs to the mighty King’s Canyon in the west, via the historic community of Hermannsburg, this road takes in the West MacDonnell National Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and artist Albert Namatjira’s house, among other attractions. Take your time, bring a camera and prepare for numerous stops along the way.

    8. Todd River

    competitors in Henley on Todd Regatta, alice springs
    Join in the fun of the quirky Henley on Todd Regatta. (Image: Tourism NT/ TImparja Creative)

    Meandering through Alice Springs like a lazy Western Brown snake, the Todd River is a central part of Alice Springs culture. Known as an ‘intermittent river’, the Todd can go from a dry dusty riverbed to a flowing waterscape in less than 15 minutes after heavy rainfall.

    When it’s dry, the famous Henley on Todd Regatta fills the sandy riverbed with handmade ‘boats’ carried by sailors. This is the world’s only dry river boating event, and it’s referenced in the ‘Silvergum Boat Race’ in the movie. Inspired by the real-life event, the characters built quirky “Flintstones-style boats” and competed in teams.

    See Kangaroo in cinemas now, and start planning your NT getaway at northernterritory.com.