Here’s how to do the outback on a budget

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Where else in the world can you feast on feral animals, fossick for opals and see horse, camel and yabby races, all on the one road trip?

Now is an especially exciting time to venture into the outback, with recent rainfall transforming the usually arid landscape into grassy plains, teeming with wildlife. And you don’t have to save up for a lifetime to do the trip of a lifetime.

How to get there on the cheap

Self-drive

Driving yourself through the outback not only gives you more freedom and flexibility to explore at your own pace, but it’s also the most affordable option, with the main expense being fuel. The more friends who come along for the road trip and chip in, the cheaper it is again.

 

But if you don’t have a reliable 4WD on hand, there are affordable rental operators such as Australian 4WD Rentals, which for example can provide a 4WD for up to 20 days from $100 a day, depending on the season.

 

Alternatively, there are many 2WD-friendly routes across the outback, such as the route from Halls Creek to Kununurra on the Great Northern Highway, from Alice Springs to Glen Helen on the Red Centre Way, and the drive from Brisbane to Longreach. See page 92 for more itinerary ideas.

By train

If you’re the kind of traveller who prefers to relax and let someone else do the driving while you view the scenery, there are many outback train lines to jump on board.

 

COUNTRYLINK train services through western NSW are an economical option, passing through many outback towns such as Bourke, Broken Hill and Lightning Ridge. There are also special outback packages through remote regions, such as the seven-day Corner Country Eco Experience from $1997 twin-share.

 

QUEENSLAND RAIL’s Spirit of the outback train service runs from Brisbane to Longreach – 1325km – twice weekly. For an extra $165, you can also pack your car onboard and drive the trip home instead.

 

THE PICHI PICHI RAILWAY in SA’s Flinders Ranges provides regular heritage train journeys on the oldest remaining section of the old Ghan railway. It uses the historic Barwell Bull railcar and offers steam services during school holidays and long weekends using historic carriages, some dating from the 19th century. Adults can jump on board a return trip for $47, concession holders for $44, children for $16. Family passes available.

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By bus

Alternatively, various bus services tour the outback, with cheap deals to boot.

 

AAT KINGS will take you all over Australia in an air-conditioned coach, and offers an array of guided tours including trips to the Top End from $1719, Best of the Kimberley from $4739 and the Red Centre from $685.

 

GREYHOUND BUSES run tours through the outback, such as the three-day Kakadu Tour from $495 per adult.

 

TRANSWA bus services weave through WA’s south, running from Perth to Kalgoorlie, Albany to Mount Magnet. WA pensioners can also get a free return trip on this service once a year – and it doesn’t get much cheaper than that!

Where to stay to save cash

Pubs

Be fed, watered and sheltered at one stop with an affordable outback pub stay.

 

• WILLIAM CREEK HOTEL in SA sits in the biggest cattle station in Australia and is the halfway point on the Oodnadatta Track, while Lake Eyre can be seen just up the road. It provides classic pub fare and has hotel rooms from $110 per room per night, and air-conditioned cabins from $65 per night.

 

THE FAMILY HOTEL in Tibooburra in outback NSW’s Corner Country is an unusual hub of Australian art history. It dates back to 1882 but it was during the 1960s that it really started to find fame, when it became a base for many travelling artists as they explored the outback for inspiration. As a result, several famous Australian artists such as Clifton Pugh, Eric Minchin and Russell Drysdale began painting the interior walls of the hotel and more artists have since followed the trend, turning the hotel into a living art gallery. Travellers can still drink, eat and stay there, with pub rooms from $60 per night, or motel rooms (located across the road) from $90 per night.

 

THE PALACE HOTEL in Kalgoorlie was built in 1897 to flaunt the town’s sudden wealth gained from the local goldmines. Considered the most luxurious hotel in the state outside of Perth, it was also the first outback hotel to have electric lighting – thanks to its own generator – and fresh water piped to the bathrooms. Today the historic two-storey hotel runs several bars and eateries, and various accommodation options starting from $70 per night.

• THE BARK HUT INN is situated on the Arnhem Highway, halfway between Darwin and Kakadu National Park. It was built by hand by the former owner during the 1960s using ironwood and scrap materials, with the help of the local Aboriginal people. Today it offers a bar and restaurant, fuel, a souvenir shop, as well as cabins and motel rooms from $65 per night.

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Camping

If you can handle the heat, get under the outback stars: there are plenty of picturesque but affordable campgrounds throughout Australia’s heartland.

 

ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges features granite peaks, waterholes and an abundance of native wildlife such as the endangered yellow-footed rock wallaby. There are 50 powered sites at the sanctuary’s caravan park from $25 per couple per night, and more than 200 unpowered sites across 300 hectares of bush by Wywhyanna Creek, from $18 per night per couple. Guests can also access Arkaroola’s restaurant and bar, shop and barbecue facilities.

 

ADELS GROVE in Queensland’s Gulf Savannah is adjacent to Lawn Hill National Park, 200km south-west of Burketown. There are two campgrounds: The Grove, down by a river, and the Main Campground. Both are equipped with modern amenities, water and fireplaces, while the Main Campground also has barbecue plates but no power. Campsites cost from $16 per night for adults, $8 for children, and there are also seven pre-erected tents from $80 per night per couple. Visitors can also make use of the on-site bar and restaurant.

 

GUNLOM CAMPGROUND within Kakadu National Park has powered and unpowered sites and is equipped with flushing toilets, showers and barbecue facilities. Most impressive, though, is the nearby Gunlom plunge pool, which has spectacular views over the southern region of Kakadu National Park. To camp it costs $10 per person per night, plus a $25 per person entry fee into Kakadu National Park, which is good for 14 days. During the wet season (December-April) access is restricted, so check the latest road reports from Bowali Visitors Centre.

 

• LAKE CROSBIE CAMPGROUND overlooks the largest of Victoria’s unique Pink Lakes (which are literally pink due to algae) in Murray Sunset National Park. The campground is basic but has toilets, picnic tables, fireplaces and water. Best of all, visitors can enjoy all of this without putting a dent in the budget – it’s free.

 

FOUR MILE CAMPING RESERVE just outside the township of Brewarrina in central north NSW sits on the Barwon River – especially popular for fishing and said to hold the secrets of the Rainbow Serpent. The reserve is equipped with an all-weather access road, toilets, cold showers, barbecue facilities, a jetty and boat ramp. What’s even better for the bank balance, there is no camping fee: the local council just asks that campers take care of the area and clean up.

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Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
    From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly. 

    Heathcote, on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability. 

    Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve
    The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

    The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote 

    Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents
    Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

    Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood, two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof.  No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course.  On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

    Mt Ida Eco Cabin
    Mt Ida Eco Cabin is rustic and simple but oozes comfort. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views.   Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.  

    A taste of Spain in Central Victoria 

    Three Dams Estate
    Three Dams Estate make Spanish-style wine.

    Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more. 

    The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking 

    Silver Spoon winery
    The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do.  The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter.  The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.   

    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant
    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

    Heathcote’s other hidden gems 

    Heathcote Wine Hub
    Heathcote Wine Hub is housed in a 1855-built timber church.

    Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub, a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff.  “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.  

    Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.   

    Envy gins
    Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Getting there

    It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road! 

    Staying there

    Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway. 

    Eating there

    French dishes at Chauncy
    Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

    At award-winning Chauncy, French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.  

    Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through. 

    Playing there

    Sanguine Estate
    Sip on wines among the vines at Sanguine Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Sanguine Estate’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.  

    At Bridgeward Grove, learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve.