Here’s how to do the outback on a budget

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Where else in the world can you feast on feral animals, fossick for opals and see horse, camel and yabby races, all on the one road trip?

Now is an especially exciting time to venture into the outback, with recent rainfall transforming the usually arid landscape into grassy plains, teeming with wildlife. And you don’t have to save up for a lifetime to do the trip of a lifetime.

How to get there on the cheap

Self-drive

Driving yourself through the outback not only gives you more freedom and flexibility to explore at your own pace, but it’s also the most affordable option, with the main expense being fuel. The more friends who come along for the road trip and chip in, the cheaper it is again.

 

But if you don’t have a reliable 4WD on hand, there are affordable rental operators such as Australian 4WD Rentals, which for example can provide a 4WD for up to 20 days from $100 a day, depending on the season.

 

Alternatively, there are many 2WD-friendly routes across the outback, such as the route from Halls Creek to Kununurra on the Great Northern Highway, from Alice Springs to Glen Helen on the Red Centre Way, and the drive from Brisbane to Longreach. See page 92 for more itinerary ideas.

By train

If you’re the kind of traveller who prefers to relax and let someone else do the driving while you view the scenery, there are many outback train lines to jump on board.

 

• COUNTRYLINK train services through western NSW are an economical option, passing through many outback towns such as Bourke, Broken Hill and Lightning Ridge. There are also special outback packages through remote regions, such as the seven-day Corner Country Eco Experience from $1997 twin-share.

 

• QUEENSLAND RAIL’s Spirit of the outback train service runs from Brisbane to Longreach – 1325km – twice weekly. For an extra $165, you can also pack your car onboard and drive the trip home instead.

 

• THE PICHI PICHI RAILWAY in SA’s Flinders Ranges provides regular heritage train journeys on the oldest remaining section of the old Ghan railway. It uses the historic Barwell Bull railcar and offers steam services during school holidays and long weekends using historic carriages, some dating from the 19th century. Adults can jump on board a return trip for $47, concession holders for $44, children for $16. Family passes available.

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By bus

Alternatively, various bus services tour the outback, with cheap deals to boot.

 

• AAT KINGS will take you all over Australia in an air-conditioned coach, and offers an array of guided tours including trips to the Top End from $1719, Best of the Kimberley from $4739 and the Red Centre from $685.

 

• GREYHOUND BUSES run tours through the outback, such as the three-day Kakadu Tour from $495 per adult.

 

• TRANSWA bus services weave through WA’s south, running from Perth to Kalgoorlie, Albany to Mount Magnet. WA pensioners can also get a free return trip on this service once a year – and it doesn’t get much cheaper than that!

Where to stay to save cash

Pubs

Be fed, watered and sheltered at one stop with an affordable outback pub stay.

 

• WILLIAM CREEK HOTEL in SA sits in the biggest cattle station in Australia and is the halfway point on the Oodnadatta Track, while Lake Eyre can be seen just up the road. It provides classic pub fare and has hotel rooms from $110 per room per night, and air-conditioned cabins from $65 per night.

 

• THE FAMILY HOTEL in Tibooburra in outback NSW’s Corner Country is an unusual hub of Australian art history. It dates back to 1882 but it was during the 1960s that it really started to find fame, when it became a base for many travelling artists as they explored the outback for inspiration. As a result, several famous Australian artists such as Clifton Pugh, Eric Minchin and Russell Drysdale began painting the interior walls of the hotel and more artists have since followed the trend, turning the hotel into a living art gallery. Travellers can still drink, eat and stay there, with pub rooms from $60 per night, or motel rooms (located across the road) from $90 per night.

 

• THE PALACE HOTEL in Kalgoorlie was built in 1897 to flaunt the town’s sudden wealth gained from the local goldmines. Considered the most luxurious hotel in the state outside of Perth, it was also the first outback hotel to have electric lighting – thanks to its own generator – and fresh water piped to the bathrooms. Today the historic two-storey hotel runs several bars and eateries, and various accommodation options starting from $70 per night.

• THE BARK HUT INN is situated on the Arnhem Highway, halfway between Darwin and Kakadu National Park. It was built by hand by the former owner during the 1960s using ironwood and scrap materials, with the help of the local Aboriginal people. Today it offers a bar and restaurant, fuel, a souvenir shop, as well as cabins and motel rooms from $65 per night.

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Camping

If you can handle the heat, get under the outback stars: there are plenty of picturesque but affordable campgrounds throughout Australia’s heartland.

 

• ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges features granite peaks, waterholes and an abundance of native wildlife such as the endangered yellow-footed rock wallaby. There are 50 powered sites at the sanctuary’s caravan park from $25 per couple per night, and more than 200 unpowered sites across 300 hectares of bush by Wywhyanna Creek, from $18 per night per couple. Guests can also access Arkaroola’s restaurant and bar, shop and barbecue facilities.

 

• ADELS GROVE in Queensland’s Gulf Savannah is adjacent to Lawn Hill National Park, 200km south-west of Burketown. There are two campgrounds: The Grove, down by a river, and the Main Campground. Both are equipped with modern amenities, water and fireplaces, while the Main Campground also has barbecue plates but no power. Campsites cost from $16 per night for adults, $8 for children, and there are also seven pre-erected tents from $80 per night per couple. Visitors can also make use of the on-site bar and restaurant.

 

• GUNLOM CAMPGROUND within Kakadu National Park has powered and unpowered sites and is equipped with flushing toilets, showers and barbecue facilities. Most impressive, though, is the nearby Gunlom plunge pool, which has spectacular views over the southern region of Kakadu National Park. To camp it costs $10 per person per night, plus a $25 per person entry fee into Kakadu National Park, which is good for 14 days. During the wet season (December-April) access is restricted, so check the latest road reports from Bowali Visitors Centre.

 

• LAKE CROSBIE CAMPGROUND overlooks the largest of Victoria’s unique Pink Lakes (which are literally pink due to algae) in Murray Sunset National Park. The campground is basic but has toilets, picnic tables, fireplaces and water. Best of all, visitors can enjoy all of this without putting a dent in the budget – it’s free.

 

• FOUR MILE CAMPING RESERVE just outside the township of Brewarrina in central north NSW sits on the Barwon River – especially popular for fishing and said to hold the secrets of the Rainbow Serpent. The reserve is equipped with an all-weather access road, toilets, cold showers, barbecue facilities, a jetty and boat ramp. What’s even better for the bank balance, there is no camping fee: the local council just asks that campers take care of the area and clean up.

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5 of the best day trips from Hobart

(Credit: Samuel Shelley)

    Rachel Lay Rachel Lay
    Hobart has quietly become our coolest capital, but the real wonder lies just beyond the city limits.

    In the cool shade of Kunyani/ Mt Wellington, Hobart has earned a reputation. Home to culture-defining Dark MOFO, the city blends rugged, raw wilderness and rule-breaking galleries. But, step beyond the thrumming capital’s border and you’ll find a new perspective: historic towns, Jurassic-era cliffs and a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. Fill your days with epicurean odysseys and wild scenery on the best day trips from Hobart.

    Where to stay

    Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick hotel
    Elevate your Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick.

    Behind every good road trip is the perfect home base. Somewhere central to review your camera roll, make the most of Hobart’s dining scene and relax before setting off again.

    For modern, Tasmanian-inspired design, book a stay at the Movenpick Hotel Hobart. Standing at the Salamanca Markets, look to the Hobart skyline, and the award-winning hotel will catch your eye. As the third-tallest building in the CBD, the views across the harbour toward Antarctica are totally unique from your room. Here, end each day at the daily free chocolate hour (plus a free Movenpick ice cream for the little ones).

    For a more budget-conscious option, head to the picture book, sandstone buildings of Macquarie Street. Nestled along the buzzing, historic streetscape, you’ll find Tasmania’s biggest hotel: the Ibis Styles. Return home each day to defrost in one of the hotel’s two saunas. Make use of the proximity to MONA, or take an easy stroll to the candy-coloured cottages of Battery Point between your adventures.

    1. Bruny Island

    Bruny Island Neck is an isthmus of land connecting north and south Bruny Island.
    Begin your adventure with a climb and a view. (Credit: Elise Weaver)

    Craggy cliffs and tropical-hued, white sand beaches signal your arrival to Bruny Island/ Lunawanna-Alonnah.

    Start your day trip at the island’s most iconic spot, the Neck Game Reserve. Scale the Trunganini steps to gaze out over the teensy stretch of land that juts through the sea connecting the two ends of the island.

    Catch a rare glimpse of the white-furred wallabies that call Bruny Island home at Adventure Bay. Then, for ocean-fresh oysters, pull into the drive-thru window at Get Shucked. Sample Bruny Island cheese at the cellar door before catching the ferry home with an esky full of local produce.

    2. Mount Wellington

    Mount Wellington Summit tasmania
    Climb through alpine forest to the summit. (Credit: Samuel Shelley)

    At 1271 metres, Mount Wellington watches protectively over Hobart. Follow the winding road to climb through alpine forest and tufts of snow to reach the summit. Gaze down over Hobart and out to sea, or over your shoulder to the southwestern wilderness.

    Reset your adrenaline with a mountain bike ride back down. Or, make like the locals and head into the mountain on foot. Try the hike to the Jurassic-period Organ Pipes, which slips under the mountain’s magnificent dolerite cliffs (perfect for families thanks to the trail’s minimal incline).

    For a view of Mount Wellington itself, hike nearby Cathedral Rock.

    2. Port Arthur

    Port Arthur tasmania
    Wander through convict-built grounds and gardens. (Credit: Alastair Bett)

    Constructed entirely by convicts, the manicured gardens and penal buildings of Port Arthur offer a day trip that practically hums with history.

    The rugged, seagirt location was chosen for its difficult escape conditions. Now, you can cruise the coast below the towering, jagged cliffs of the Tasman National Park or wander the sloping fields of fragrant lavender.

    Tickets to Port Arthur include a walking tour and harbour cruise. See the Isle of the Dead where 1000 men are buried in marked and unmarked graves. And Point Puer, Britain’s first prison for children.

    3. Launceston

    Duck Reach Power Station Bridge Cataract Gorge launceston
    Walk the sunlit paths of Cataract Gorge. (Credit: Nick H Visuals)

    You’ll find Launceston at the confluence of three rivers after an easy 2.5-hour drive from Hobart. Launceston is a patchwork of old and new. Here, heritage streetscapes meet modern architecture.

    Visit Cataract Gorge, the green, sun-dappled heart of the town and sacred meeting point for Tasmania’s indigenous communities. Pull up at roadside produce stalls that dot the Tamar Valley, or dine out. Launceston is, after all, a UNESCO City of Gastronomy.

    Should the local wine scene persuade you, simply extend your time in Launceston at Peppers Silo (but definitely at least stop by the onsite restaurant, Grain of the Silo, for a farm fresh menu) or Mercure Launceston before heading back to Hobart.

    4. Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

    woman with wombat at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary
    Snap a cuddle-worthy encounter. (Credit: Tourism Australia)

    Take a 35-minute drive from your hotel and you’ll find Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary. This social enterprise is run by a team of extremely passionate Tasmanians with a mission to look after critically endangered species who have found sanctuary here after facing extinction on the mainland.

    Choose to wander the sanctuary at your own pace or join a guided tour (free with your ticket) to come face to face with Tassie’s most iconic species. Tasmanian Devils, wombats and echidnas are part of the free tour. You can book up close encounters with your favourite animals, too.

    5. Richmond Village & Coal River Valley

    Richmond is a picture-perfect town in the Coal River Valley wine region, offering a glimpse into early colonial life, one of the best day trips from Hobart.
    Trace the river through history and wine country. (Credit: Alastair Bett)

    Richmond is a town that belongs in a snow globe. Fifty colonial-era, Georgian buildings have been painstakingly restored and turned into cafes, cosy restaurants and galleries. Visit Richmond Gaol, said to be the home of a prisoner so vile he inspired Charles Dickens to pen Oliver Twist’s Fagin.

    Then, follow the Coal River as it flows past grassy, duckling-dotted knolls and under the iconic Richmond Bridge, the oldest bridge in Australia. From the crest of the bridge, see the oldest Catholic Church in Australia. The river crawls past many cellar doors, perfect for a day of wine tasting.