Unsung Heroes of Australian Wine

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Australia is home to more than 1800 wineries, just ten of which represent over 80 percent of domestic sales. A few dozen others garner the lion’s share of media attention. Where does that leave the rest? Virtually ignored, says AT Gourmet Guy Tom Neal Tacker.

“First we grew potatoes," says Norman Latta of Eastern Peake Winery, some 25km from Ballarat. “Then we replanted in 1983. Why here, in an area that hadn’t any grapes before? Trevor Mast from Mt Langi Ghiran told me it had potential and we went from there. We planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It was all a risk."

 

Planting grapes on a high and windswept property? Risk indeed. With a total production of less than 1200 cases a year,Eastern Peakeis truly boutique. And at five hectares, surprisingly, it’s the largest in the region. Few wine enthusiasts have heard of it, much less Ballarat as a wine region, which is a pity, as the wines are fabulously good.

 

The Australian wine industry is full of such small operators with postage stamp-sized vineyards making marginal profits, all of them competing in a shallow domestic sales pool. Most minimise yields to ensure quality, but spend big on expensive cooperage, among other financial risk factors. There’s a desire to make wine of which they can be proud, rather than simply wine that sells. Of the whole of the Australian wine industry, these are the unsung heroes.

HOW TO SPOT ONE

Industry big boys dominate wine retail shops more than ever as the supermarket chains continue to swallow up smaller outlets one after another, leaving small producers like Latta less and less shelf space. It’s survival of the fittest in a very tough market. Without cellar door sales and mailing lists of loyal customers, they’re sunk.

 

Many smaller operators have done well on the Australian show circuit, but most don’t. Some are also very accomplished at courting the wine press, but most aren’t. And many wouldn’t enter a show system that tends to be biased against the wines they make (ie, ones that are shy and unassuming, rather than the attention-seeking, over-oaked and sweet wines that attract a tired judge’s palate after the 195th sample of the day).

 

Eastern Peake wines are food-friendly wines. They don’t show their optimum character just out of the bottle or drunk without a meal. This is typical of an unsung hero wine. They blush with timidity upon first introduction, but blossom into rare treats with familiarity and good food.

 

It’s a pity so many winemakers toil so long in the vineyard, at such minimal profit, so that little time is left for promotion, marketing and publicity. Many naively believe their wines should sell themselves. A fine sentiment, but the reality of the marketplace often leaves them on the outer fringe of public recognition.

 

Winemakers are passionate about what they do and generous with their time when visitors arrive but rarely do they pursue publicity. I find this appealing but am also fearful for their future. Without them, our expanding wine industry will suffer. They’re pioneers, planting in new locations and experimenting with styles and little known varieties that larger wineries avoid, mindful of the bottom line. It would be a terrible loss to us all if market pressures force the many interesting, often quixotic wineries like Eastern Peakeout of business.

 

In going out of your way to visit wineries you don’t know, the rewards gained are vastly disproportionate to the occasional bad vintage or amateurishly made drop. I find myself concurring with the Michelin mantra: il vaut le detour. No detour is too far out of your way if the result is another undiscovered gem. So, rather than trot out the same old “usual suspects" account of well-publicised wineries, I offer up a shortlist of some of the unsung heroes I’ve been lucky enough to encounter.

EXPLORING THE RANGE

Norm Latta of Eastern Peake aside, let’s begin with some more Victorians: Ken and Juliet Eckersley of Nicholson River Winery in East Gippsland. Not only does Ken make some of the country’s most intriguing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, he also makes what I consider to be Australia’s best vinegar. No, that’s not a joke, even if you’re not supposed to mention wine and vinegar in the same sentence. Seriously, Ken’s wine vinegar, derived from a carefully cultured “mother", puts most others to shame. Like his delicious wines, it’s unique and memorable.

 

Chris Pfeiffer of Carlyle Wines, Rutherglen, offers his family label ex-cellar door only. His better-known Carlyle range has had export success and is on the Rutherglen map of renown but for me the Pfeiffer range is always worth the detour to the cellar door. His Gamay, one of the few produced in Australia, is reasonably priced and makes a wonderful hot weather red when lightly chilled. Pfeiffer’s vintage ports are outstanding as is the rest of the fortified range.

 

Just outside Beechworth, near other more revered and media darling wineries, Keppell Smith of Savaterre Winery makes standout Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. At a recent Victorian Wine Exhibition, Keppell offered tastes of his Pinot Noir from a sleek decanter where the wine had been properly aired long enough to bring out its latent beauty. I may be jumping the gun, but Savaterre is one to watch out for. Keppell hides his light under the proverbial bushel. He shouldn’t.

 

In the Kiewa Valley, up the road (there is only one) from Mt Beauty is Ceccanti Wines owned by the Ceccanti family. Father Angelo, his wife Moya and their winemaking son Danny run the enterprise. It’s the largest vineyard in the Kiewa Valley, surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. They run a very pleasantly informal cafe there and a bakery cafe in Mount Beauty that has revitalised the town centre by offering local kids a place to hang out that isn’t the pub. Ceccanti Wines are uniformly distinguished and have a remarkable local flavour, a prime example of terroir in action.

CROSSING INTO NSW

I’m routinely surprised at how little acclaim David Lowe and Jane Wilson receive for their dual success at everything they turn their minds and hands to. Apart from their invariably superb Lowe Family Wines range, they’ve become the unsung heroes of the Mudgee region, making wine contractually for seemingly everyone there (and a few in Orange), so often are they credited on the reverse of wine labels. There are many other winemakers doing marvellous things in the area, but however David and Jane are prolific but prosaically humble.

 

When in Orange I make a point of visiting Bloodwood Wines. Made by Stephen and Rhonda Doyle, this dedicated couple are the forerunners in helping to create Orange’s budding reputation as a foodies’ pilgrimage. They began inauspiciously in a tin shed, where they lived before building their house, keeping their focus on their vineyards at the expense of physical comfort. Stephen makes stunning wines, when vintage conditions allow, successfully eschewing the limelight. He isn’t shy – indeed he’s a bit of a local character – but he lets his wines speak for themselves. His rose, Men in Tights, must be one of the best in Australia. It certainly has the most memorable name.

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QUEENSLAND BOUND

Queensland, our wine industry’s country cousin in extremis, is almost always left out of the picture. Yes, some of the wines aren’t yet up to par but anyone who persists and proves that great wine can indeed be made there deserves respect and a larger following. Warren and Sue Smith of Pyramid’s Road Wines in Stanthorpe’s wine country near Ballandean are doing just that. They’re making fewer than 500 dozens of wine per year; it’s a hands-on business. Again, smaller is better for the consumer. Their Bernie’s Blend of Cabernet,Shirazand Merlot is a wine of remarkable character and the Verdelho is to me what this variety is all about: freshness, vivacity and ease.

APPLE ISLE

Tasmaniais chock-a-block with boutique wineries all vying for greater attention. I could list a large number, but one stands out: Apsley Gorge of Bicheno on the east coast. When I first tasted its Pinot Noir some years ago, it was a revelation. It’s owned and operated by Brian Franklin, a former abalone diver who clearly knows the importance of site selection. I came across him one day at the Salamanca Markets in Hobartand found myself gushing, again, about his Pinot Noir. He must think me mad. I think he’s mad not to bask in the praise.

A BRILLIANT BLEND

South Australia, the wine state, rests its tourism reputation on the accessibility and fineness of its wine scene. Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare and Eden Valleys, the Coonawarra – all take centre stage for the wine-intent visitor. I tend to go off track and visit Langhorne Creek and the Adelaide Hills, scouting for the newest operators on the block. Long ago I discovered Leland Estate in the Adelaide Hills near Lenswood. Owned and operated by Robb Cootes, Leland is a single vineyard of 2.5 hectares planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Robb is a major unsung hero in my opinion. His Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best in the country. Unfortunately you don’t see much of it outside Adelaide but that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be celebrated. His Pinot Noir is as good as any other acclaimed Pinot in the neighbourhood. That the former senior red winemaker of Yalumba should make such an amazing Sauvignon Blanc constantly amazes me. Knowing Robb only a little, however, should be enough to render me unsurprised. He brings out the poetry in grapes.

WEST IS BEST

WA is also a treasure trove of unsung talent. The Margaret River luminaries get all the good press. I’d like to add Janice McDonald of Stella Bella and Suckfizzle atAugustato the growing list; she’s had positive media attention over recent years but deserves more. As one of Australia’s only female brewers, formerly of Matilda Bay brewery and now Little Creatures, she also makes damned fine wines with tremendous individual character. Janice isn’t really shy but she doesn’t boast either. I suppose it’s a matter of choosing to be in the shadow of the Cullens, Vasse Felix,Cape Mentelle, Leeuwin Estate and Pierro crowd.

 

Further east is little Pemberton, and near there is Picardy Estate, run by the Pannell family. Bill Pannell founded Moss Wood winery in 1969, establishing himself as a pioneer. He sold it and planted vines at Picardyin 1993. His son Dan has continued to further Pannell family fame with their outstanding wines. Moss Wood was and is a legendary winery. Strangely,Picardyis known only to the enlightened few. The move to Pemberton was a wise one but the public hasn’t kept track very well. The Pannell family are not unsung but a new verse is well deserved judging from their success atPicardy. The Pinot Noir is truly Burgundian in style (keep it cellared for a few years to bring it out of its well wrought shell), the Shiraz is superb and the Chardonnay exceptionally fine.

 

These are just a sample of Australia’s unsung wine heroes. My list is of course entirely subjective. Space prohibits further exploration but I can’t resist mentioning a few more. They all happen to be from around Canberra: Ken Helm of Helm’s Wines, David Madew of Madew’s Wines and Frank van de Loo of Mount Majura Vineyard. What this says about the Canberra wine region is: watch this space!

DETAILS: Unsung Heroes of Australian Wine

Eastern Peake Winery

WEBSITE // http://www.ballaratwineries.com/

PHONE // (03) 5343 4245

 

Nicholson River Winery

WEBSITE // www.nicholsonriverwinery.com.au

PHONE // (03) 5102 0898

 

Pfeiffer and Carlyle Wines

WEBSITE // www.pfeifferwinesrutherglen.com.au

PHONE // (02) 6033 2805

 

Savaterre Winery

WEBSITE // www.savaterre.com

PHONE // (03) 5727 0551

 

Ceccanti Wines

WEBSITE // http://www.ceccanti.com.au/

PHONE // (03) 5754 5236

 

Lowe Family Wine

WEBSITE // www.lowewine.com.au

PHONE // (02) 6372 0800

 

Bloodwood Wines

WEBSITE // http://bloodwood.biz/

PHONE // (02) 6362 5631

 

Pyramid’s Road Wines

WEBSITE // www.pyramidsroad.com.au

PHONE // (07) 4684 5151

 

Apsley Gorge Winery

EMAIL // agv@tassie.net.au

PHONE // (03) 6375 1221

 

Leland Estate

WEBSITE // www.lelandestate.com.au

PHONE // (08) 8389 6928

 

Stella Bella & Suckfizzle

WEBSITE // www.stellabella.com.au

PHONE // (08) 9757 6377

 

Picardy Estate

WEBSITE // www.picardy.com.au

PHONE // (08) 9776 0036

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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.
    The unsung heroes of Australian wine | Australian Traveller