Discover why #Vanlife is so much more than just a hashtag

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If you think the ideals of the hippie era have been replaced by the consumerism of the 21st century, think again.

Australians are escaping the nine-to-five and joining the #vanlife bandwagon. But what is the #vanlife movement and should you be a part of it? Jennifer Ennion finds out.

 

The old-fashioned Aussie road trip is going through a transformation thanks to a cultural phenomenon sweeping the United States.

 

Vanlife is infiltrating our shores and attracting a diverse following Down Under. Elise Cook, 27, and her husband, Domenic Palumbo, 29, have spent the past eight months travelling Australia in their 1972 Volkswagen Westfalia. They’re not backpackers, but entrepreneurs, running their boutique company, Down the Rabbit Hole Wines, from the van.

 

Amber and Keenan Badger are a married couple in their early 40s who are part-time ‘vanlifers’, travelling in a Kombi with their two daughters. Like Cook, they’re working to fund a more simplistic, adventurous lifestyle.

 

Michael Brunell also doesn’t fit the road-tripper stereotype. He may be travelling solo, but he’s in his mid-30s and is a flight dispatcher, taking breaks in shift work to hit the road. These travellers share a passion to downscale and explore, and that is what #vanlife is about.

The movement

Although people have been living out of their home-on-wheels since the hippie trail heyday, when Europeans travelled overland to south Asia, vanlife is different. It has a bohemian appeal but is more than a movement for hippies and hipsters.

 

It started in the US not long after Instagram was launched in 2010, when Foster Huntington – who had given up his job and apartment in New York to move into a 1987 VW Syncro – began uploading photos and tagging them with the phrase #vanlife. The hashtag, which promoted an enviable, nomadic lifestyle, caught on and today more than two million posts have been tagged with it. Booming in North America, vanlife is still in its infancy in Australia.

explore adventure van life combi travel country road trip
The old-fashioned Aussie road trip has been reborn (photo: Elise Cook).

Cook explains the appeal: “We are so flooded with artificial light, constantly plugged in, bombarded with expectations of what success and adulthood should look like… that I think people are feeling a need to find a way to totally strip that back and reassess who they want to be and why. In our experience, vanlife allows that to happen, especially here."

 

Brunell, whose vehicle of choice is a 2009 VW Crafter, has noticed that van travel is no longer the domain of European backpackers travelling between Perth and Sydney, but more Australians are becoming vanlifers, and we’re taking a glamping approach.

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The Vanlifers

It was six years ago that the Badgers unwittingly became vanlifers. The NSW-based couple had a regular van for weekends away but swapped it for a Kombi two years ago and began taking longer holidays. They’re currently on the road in Western Australia with their daughters Coco, 12, and Indigo, 10.

 

“Owning a Kombi has been a dream of ours for a very long time," Amber Badger explains. “It was something we put in the later-in-life basket… but we had a momentary lapse of rational thinking. One day we just thought ‘you know what, why wait?'"

 

As a self-employed leather worker, Badger can be flexible with her working hours, while her husband uses his long-service leave from his job as an electrician to travel. For them, vanlife is about slow travel and downscaling.

explore adventure van life combi travel country road trip
#vanlife is for all members of the family (photo: Amber Badger).

“It really strips us back to the core values," Badger says. “We drive slow. We’re sitting on 80 kilometres an hour. Everyone’s passing us by," she laughs.

 

Vanlife has a similar appeal for South Australians Cook and Palumbo, who purchased their VW for weekend jaunts. Their trips also grew longer and the pair eventually moved into the van full-time. They’re now embedded in the vanlife community.

 

“You sit around with people who are trying to live a little more consciously, people who are interested in really living this life we’ve been given, and you have the most incredible, life-changing conversations," Cook says.

 

Nostalgia plays a part in the attraction for Brunell, who recalls childhood caravanning holidays. Doing the “van thing", he says, is an extension of that. But he also wants to save on rent, as he already has a mortgage – and there’s the freedom.

 

“I look at people working nine to five, catching the same train every day and it just drives me insane," Brunell says.

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How to make vanlife happen

– If you have children, consider home-schooling

– Test out vanlife on short trips

– If you’re a part-time vanlifer, create a packing list you can refer to

– Ensure the van is insulated so it’s comfortable in extreme heat and cold

– Sort out your power, solar or otherwise, so you can free camp

– Understand the mechanical basics of your vehicle and travel with a small toolbox

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Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
    Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

    Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

    “Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

    Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten, the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

    heritage buildings in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

    Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

    Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

    Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
    Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

    For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

    You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery, a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

    How Ballarat is preserving the past

    artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
    The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

    While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

    The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

    artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
    Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

    Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

    A city steeped in food and flavours

    Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
    Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho, José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

    The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

    a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
    Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits. At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

    the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
    The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

    The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

    one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
    The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

    Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

    Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Getting there

    It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

    Staying there

    Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial, which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

    a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
    Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

    Eating there

    dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
    The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

    Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

    Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

    dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
    Dining at Grainery Lane.

    Playing there

    a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
    An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

    a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
    Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

    The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections.

    Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
    Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

    Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle, ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.