Top Towns for 2022: Bellingen has gone from hippie to hipster

Imogen Eveson Imogen Eveson
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With its lush, green landscape folding into a quirky, historic townscape, there’s a certain magic to this hinterland hub that speaks to Imogen Eveson. And to you, voting it n0. 44 in your pick of Top 50 Aussie Towns.

Find the complete list of the Top 50 Aussie Towns here.

For me, Bellingen might just be the perfect town. Perhaps that’s because I grew up in Glastonbury, New Age capital of England, so I feel right at home with Bello’s bohemian vibes.

On the Traditional Lands of the Gumbaynggir people, it lies on the wide and beautiful Bellinger River in verdant hinterland halfway between Sydney and Brisbane (and 30 minutes’ drive south-west of Coffs Harbour along the Waterfall Way).

Bellingen Hinterland
Breathe in the majestic hinterland. (Image: Destination NSW)

The town prospered as a dairy farming community in the early 20th century – the rich soils of the surrounding valley plus ample sunshine and rainfall ensuring good pastureland – before an influx of people seeking an alternative lifestyle in the 1970s and ’80s weaved in DNA that changed its trajectory.

This hippie history is documented in a film, Bellingen – The Promised Land, that I watch one evening at the Art Deco Memorial Hall, and is evident today in eclectic shops like the Hemp Store and community-minded spaces like cafe, restaurant and live music venue 5 Church Street.

Bellingen is a place that will defy anyone not to contemplate a tree change when they visit, and this has been happening in earnest for the past couple of decades. Hippie has turned hipster and visitors today also have a range of boutique shops to browse and smart eateries to frequent.

Bellingen main streetscape
Stroll the town’s heritage streetscape. (Image: Destination NSW)

Housed in a beautifully restored old timber church, Cedar Bar & Kitchen is the go-to spot for wine and nibbles or a refined share-plate meal on Fridays and Saturdays; sample craft beers and pizza in a converted factory at artisan brewery and boutique bar Bellingen Brewing Co., and head to Tish Faco Cantina at happy hour for $6.50 tacos, schooners and frozen margaritas.

Bellingen Brewing Co. Sign
Stop for a craft beer and pizza at Bellingen Brewing Co. (Image: Destination NSW)

I spend a disproportionate amount of time sheltering from summer rain in Hyde Bellingen, drinking soy flat whites at its cafe and cultivating an interest in expensive flax linen sleepwear at its boutique.

But despite these trimmings, you can’t beat a classic country pub complete with generously proportioned bistro meals: in this, the 1901 Federal Hotel more than delivers.

The pull of Bellingen, of course, extends way beyond the heritage streetscape and busy roster of markets and festivals. It’s the landscape that inspires the creativity that drives the town and provides outdoor adventures aplenty: seek out swimming holes, kayak and canoe the river, and follow the Waterfall Way to the heritage-listed Dorrigo National Park.

Bellingen Canoe Adventures
Kayak the river with Bellingen Canoe Adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)

There’s an unknowable magic stitched into that confluence of rolling green and winding water. One that keeps pulling me, and many others, back.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Imogen Eveson
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
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7 Lake Macquarie secrets the locals don’t want you to know

Credit: Beau Pilgrim

    Rachael Thompson Rachael Thompson
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    An untapped side to this popular holiday spot is hiding in plain sight.

    Laid-back Lake Macquarie draws in holidaygoers and day trippers with its casual coastal allure and raw beauty. But even though it’s just 90 minutes from Sydney, most visitors have only scratched the surface of what this region has to offer.

    Foodie hotspots, quaint towns, tranquil waterways and compelling art are all waiting to be discovered. You just need to know where to find them.

    1. Most visitors don’t make it to the western side

    Explore beyond the western side. (Credit: Beau Pilgrim)

    While there’s no harm in walking the well-worn path in this idyllic pocket of the world, the area west of Lake Macquarie is defined by stretches of ancient rainforests and quaint towns with a more local feel. Toronto is the largest town on this side and features a golf course and sailing clubs, while peninsula-based Wangi Wangi is fantastic for bushwalking and swimming.

    2. There’s a booming arts scene

    Museum of Art and Culture, YAPANG
    Discover the Museum of Art and Culture, YAPANG.

    Lake Macquarie is a must-visit destination for creatives. Discover the Museum of Art and Culture, YAPANG; this modern gallery is set on a five-hectare sculpture park and showcases a free rotating program of exhibitions and events, with a strong focus on contemporary Aboriginal art. In Wangi Wangi, explore the Wangi Owl Trail, which includes Dobell House, the preserved home of prolific artist Sir William Dobell. And enjoy live music every Saturday evening at the recently renovated Toronto Hotel.

    3. It’s a nature lover’s paradise

    three people swimming in lake macquarie
    In and out of the water, find a natural paradise. (Credit: Beau Pilgrim)

    Lake Macquarie is a playground for nature lovers. It’s home to Australia’s largest saltwater lake, a 110-square-kilometre haven for swimming, fishing, boating and sunset views. Another oasis is the Lake Macquarie State Conservation Area, a 761-hectare protected reserve with wildflowers, Second World War heritage sites and spectacular views to Pulbah Island. The upgraded Toronto baths, complete with jetty decking and netting, make for a sheltered spot for a refreshing dip, while the Awaba Mountain Bike Park gives adrenaline junkies their fix.

    4. The dining scene is unbeatable

    8 at Trinity lake macquarie
    Treat yourself to 8 at Trinity.

    Gourmands are well looked after in Lake Macquarie. At Emerson’s on the Lake in Toronto, the modern Australian fine dining menu spoils seafood lovers with the freshest ocean produce and stunning lake views. Sitting on Trinity Point’s waterfront, 8 at Trinity is another standout offering, serving Mediterranean fare in an open-air setting. For a more relaxed affair, the microbrewery trail lets craft beer enthusiasts sip on inventive brews from The Yard, Lake Mac Brewing and Bread & Brewery.

    5. There are hidden coves and waterways

    kayakers on lake macquarie local secrets
    Get out onto the lake. (Credit: Beau Pilgrim)

    There’s no better way to experience Lake Macquarie than directly on its waters, and in doing so you’ll discover a world of hidden coves and secluded waterways. Jump in a kayak for a tour with the friendly team at School of Yak and paddle to Cockle Creek, Awaba Bay, Green Point and Fennel Bay, discovering underwater life along the way. Or go all in and stay the night on one of Lake Macquarie Houseboats’ spacious vessels or hire a BBQ pontoon boat for the day from Lake Macquarie Boat Hire to enjoy a feast in the sunshine while admiring the marine life and picturesque waterscape.

    6. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise

    ll blue wren sitting on a tree branch
    Keep an eye out for local birdlife. (Credit: Walter Coppola)

    Twitchers are in for a real treat as hundreds of fascinating bird species such as Australian pelicans, black swans, white-bellied sea-eagles and superb fairy-wrens call this area home. Take a self-guided tour around top spots including Bird Cage Point and Lake Macquarie State Conservation Area (near Morisset) or be guided in a clear-bottom kayak through the waterways with Lake Macquarie Kayak Adventures, observing feathered friends as you go.

    7. The lake has islands

    sail lake macquarie
    Charter a boat to see Lake Macquarie’s islands.

    Hop on a private boat, kayak or charter around the lake to discover the plethora of small islands peppered around Lake Macquarie. The largest is Pulbah Island, a 69-hectare nature reserve home to goannas and sugar gliders with secluded beaches. Sandy islands such as Spectacle Island and Pelican Island have a tropical lagoon-like look to them as they sit in the tidal path of Swansea Channel, which filters the sand and creates a pristine environment. Stop by for a dip and a picnic.

    Start living like the locals at visitlakemac.com.au.