Top Towns for 2022: Bellingen has gone from hippie to hipster

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With its lush, green landscape folding into a quirky, historic townscape, there’s a certain magic to this hinterland hub that speaks to Imogen Eveson. And to you, voting it n0. 44 in your pick of Top 50 Aussie Towns.

Find the complete list of the Top 50 Aussie Towns here.

For me, Bellingen might just be the perfect town. Perhaps that’s because I grew up in Glastonbury, New Age capital of England, so I feel right at home with Bello’s bohemian vibes.

On the Traditional Lands of the Gumbaynggir people, it lies on the wide and beautiful Bellinger River in verdant hinterland halfway between Sydney and Brisbane (and 30 minutes’ drive south-west of Coffs Harbour along the Waterfall Way).

Bellingen Hinterland
Breathe in the majestic hinterland. (Image: Destination NSW)

The town prospered as a dairy farming community in the early 20th century – the rich soils of the surrounding valley plus ample sunshine and rainfall ensuring good pastureland – before an influx of people seeking an alternative lifestyle in the 1970s and ’80s weaved in DNA that changed its trajectory.

This hippie history is documented in a film, Bellingen – The Promised Land, that I watch one evening at the Art Deco Memorial Hall, and is evident today in eclectic shops like the Hemp Store and community-minded spaces like cafe, restaurant and live music venue 5 Church Street.

Bellingen is a place that will defy anyone not to contemplate a tree change when they visit, and this has been happening in earnest for the past couple of decades. Hippie has turned hipster and visitors today also have a range of boutique shops to browse and smart eateries to frequent.

Bellingen main streetscape
Stroll the town’s heritage streetscape. (Image: Destination NSW)

Housed in a beautifully restored old timber church, Cedar Bar & Kitchen is the go-to spot for wine and nibbles or a refined share-plate meal on Fridays and Saturdays; sample craft beers and pizza in a converted factory at artisan brewery and boutique bar Bellingen Brewing Co., and head to Tish Faco Cantina at happy hour for $6.50 tacos, schooners and frozen margaritas.

Bellingen Brewing Co. Sign
Stop for a craft beer and pizza at Bellingen Brewing Co. (Image: Destination NSW)

I spend a disproportionate amount of time sheltering from summer rain in Hyde Bellingen, drinking soy flat whites at its cafe and cultivating an interest in expensive flax linen sleepwear at its boutique.

But despite these trimmings, you can’t beat a classic country pub complete with generously proportioned bistro meals: in this, the 1901 Federal Hotel more than delivers.

The pull of Bellingen, of course, extends way beyond the heritage streetscape and busy roster of markets and festivals. It’s the landscape that inspires the creativity that drives the town and provides outdoor adventures aplenty: seek out swimming holes, kayak and canoe the river, and follow the Waterfall Way to the heritage-listed Dorrigo National Park.

Bellingen Canoe Adventures
Kayak the river with Bellingen Canoe Adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)

There’s an unknowable magic stitched into that confluence of rolling green and winding water. One that keeps pulling me, and many others, back.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Imogen Eveson
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
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Slowing down in Moree: a guide to the Artesian Spa Capital of Australia

(Credit: Destination NSW)

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The Artesian Spa Capital of Australia offers the perfect destination to escape the grind and reset.

    The world moves more slowly in Moree, and that’s how it should be. Here, country charm and heritage buildings fill the town’s wide streets. While the surrounding farmland mixes with lush riverways to create a fascinating landscape.

    But the biggest pull? Moree is known as the Artesian Spa Capital of Australia. It’s truly a place to slow down and disconnect, all an easy train ride from Sydney.

    Soak in Moree’s artesian water

    kids at Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
    Dive in to Moree’s artesian waters.

    Moree is not your typical wellness retreat, replacing pretence with casual and easy. Blessed to be sitting above the Great Artesian Basin, it feeds the town (and surrounding villages) with hot, mineral-rich water. Loaded with minerals like calcium, magnesium, potassium and sulphur, this water is believed to help with skin health, joint function and tissue repair.

    And the town’s crown jewel, Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre, has reopened after extensive upgrades. This state-of-the-art aquatic centre offers accessible facilities with multiple artesian baths of varying temperatures between 38 and 41°C.

    Feel like exploring a little further? About an hour’s drive from Moree, the village of Boomi also offers public access to this same artesian water. Pop into Boomi Artesian Pool to make the most of a 25-metre cold pool, a wading pool and a hot artesian spa pool.

    Just an hour west of Boomi, you’ll also find Mungindi Hot Artesian Pool, another relaxing place to rejuvenate for the afternoon in the mineral-rich water.

    Moree’s best stays

    woman swimming ta Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
    Stay right by Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre.

    There are several motels within walking distance of the aquatic centre, so you linger longer in its therapeutic waters. A day pass not enough? Really soak in the benefits of Moree at three local stays with their own artesian baths.

    Gwydir Thermal Pools Resort boasts five artesian pools for motel and caravan park guests, ranging in soothing temperatures from 34 to 39 degrees. And that includes a 25-metre lap pool.

    The Phoenix, Artesian Spa Resort & Accommodation features outdoor artesian thermal pools and six indoor artesian spas, all 34 to 42°C, plus regular pools for guests staying in their accommodations.

    While the Artesian Spa Motel matches 46 comfortable budget rooms set across five acres of landscaped grounds, with direct access (for guests) to its own natural artesian hot thermal pool.

    Moree’s location at the crossroads of the Newell and Gwydir Highways makes it the ideal resting place for those road tripping through country NSW. With plenty of accommodation options, including farm stays, quaint bed and breakfasts and affordable motels.

    Delving into nature around Moree

    aerial of moree
    Find plenty of natural beauty in and around Moree. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Beyond the baths, find calm in Moree’s nature. Soak up the impressive Gwydir River from the peaceful Tareelaroi Weir Recreation Area. Popular with locals, this scenic spot is perfect for fishing, kayaking and picnics. Delve into local history at the Terry Hie Hie Picnic Area – a significant Gamilaroi cultural site. The picnic area is still used today as a ceremonial gathering ground, with educational signage sharing the history of the Gamilaroi People and the mission which used to reside here in the early 20th Century. Follow the Yana-y Warruwi Walking Track to explore the area’s box pine forest.

    Combine nature and culture at the Jellicoe Park Open Spaces Aboriginal Art Trail along the scenic Mehi River Walk. Find artworks from local Indigenous artists across a range of different mediums, like carved logs, engraved and painted sandstone and scar tree paintings.

    A taste of Moree

    meal at Moree Country Club
    Sit down for a tasty meal after a game of golf. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Taste the best of local cafes as you wander past the Art Deco architecture of Moree’s tree-lined main streets. Join the locals each morning at Brooker Trading Co as they line up for their morning java. Stay for classic breakfast dishes like eggs benedict and Dutch pancakes, or arrive later in the day for a hearty lunch menu. Inside a gorgeous Art Deco building, 61 Balo is another tasty breakfast option, with pet-friendly service. The recently renovated Cafe Omega is another popular stop for fresh, hearty meals – the chicken burger is a particular crowd pleaser – all served with a smile.

    Get inspired as you wander the CBD’s Mural Trail, stopping at some of Moree’s six art galleries along the way. Bank Art Museum is a must-see, housed in the town’s heritage bank building and home to a collection of First Nations art, plus a changing calendar of touring exhibitions.

    Bank Art Museum Moree
    Step inside the gorgeous Bank Art Museum Moree. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Get active with a round on the beautiful riverside course at Moree Golf Club (and refuel afterwards at the delicious onsite restaurant) or a game of bowls at Moree Services Club’s state-of-the-art facility. Visit on the last weekend of September to join (or watch) Run the Plains, Moree’s annual two-day running festival.

    Known as ‘white gold’ country, Moree is Australia’s most productive agricultural region. Visit from April to September to join a cotton farm tour and get to know one of Moree’s major exports.

    However long you choose to stay, there’s plenty to soak in around Moree.

    Start planning the ultimate escape at visitmoreeplains.com.au.