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I’ve stayed in 21 hotels in Sydney and this is my favourite

Welcome to Hotel Addict, a monthly column where I check into Australia’s best hotels and share what makes them worthy of your wishlist.

Hotel stays have become my niche. Long before I became a travel journalist, I was booking staycations just for a change of scenery. Some were charming and full of character, while others left much to be desired. Once, I even stayed in a hotel directly opposite my own apartment – partly for the novelty, partly because I wanted to see my life from a different angle.

Hotels have a certain allure to them and whenever I see one I find myself wanting to know what lies within. The best ones, to me, are designed with thoughtful elements that reflect the city they sit in, and at their heart, passionate staff who go above and beyond to foster an unforgettable experience. Time seems to pause in these spaces which have increasingly become a destination in their own right.

It only felt fitting for the first hotel in this series to be in my home city and at the hotel that’s been at the top of my list: Capella Sydney. 

A sandstone heritage building and palm trees
Capella sits within an Edwardian Baroque‑style sandstone building.

An email with a hotel program from the “Culturist Team" lets me know this will be a luxurious stay. There’s a guided walk around the Botanic Gardens, a weaving workshop and a Sydney contemporary art tour – the kind of addition that signals a hotel that’s tuned into the more refined details and one that’s not surprising given Capella’s ethos centres on delivering personalised, immersive experiences. 

Capella opened in 2023 within a transformed Edwardian Baroque‑style sandstone building in Sydney’s CBD that was originally designed by renowned Scottish-Australian architect George McRae. I often walk past this building and once attended an event inside – I distinctly remember being surprised by how beautiful it was. Bar Studio, Make Architects, and stylist Simone Haag were engaged to sensitively adapt the building for contemporary luxury while honouring its past, in collaboration with Heritage NSW and the City of Sydney.

Art hanging in a historic hotel foyer
The grand entry is beautifully enhanced by striking contemporary artworks.
A large bouquet of Australian native flowers sitting on a table.
Large bouquets of Australian natives elevate the public spaces.
A large contemporary painting hanging above a modern desk and chairs.
The design strikes the perfect balance between grandness and intimacy.
The foyer and Aperture dining area of Capella Sydney
The expansive foyer and Aperture dining area.
A marble fireplace with objet d'art on the mantle.
Each space is layered to perfection.

When I arrive, I’m greeted by three different staff members along the way to reception. There’s a lovely subtle scent, which I later learn combines notes of bergamot, green tea leaves, peony, freesia, vetiver and cedarwood. This hotel strikes such a beautiful balance between grandness and intimacy, with large floral bouquets, contemporary artworks, impressively high ceilings that give it an international feel and quieter nooks to unwind in. Each space is unique, but they’re all unified by a warm, textural and layered design.

Sydney has been deserving of a hotel of this calibre for quite some time, with many of the accommodations in the city looking and feeling dated.

A modern hotel reception with high ceilings
The design strikes the perfect balance between grandness and intimacy.

I have a treatment booked at the hotel’s Auriga Spa prior to check-in. The space is ultra-luxe, moodily lit and intimate, featuring timber joinery, green walls and a sleek design that’s so perfect it almost transports me to Japan. I opt for the Replenish Beauty and LED Facial – a strategic choice with a TV segment on the horizon, and a hopeful bid to look extra fresh for the camera.

The treatment begins with me sitting in the softest robe of my life, wearing slippers and sipping chamomile tea. I’m then whisked away to my private treatment room, which has its own bathroom, a large skylight and a small Japanese-style garden. The treatment is extremely relaxing and moves through cleansing, exfoliating, massaging (arm, head, neck and face) and LED Light Therapy. There’s so much attention to detail – even at the end, the facialist puts my slippers back on me, while I’m still lying down.

Spa treatment room with a massage bed, featuring timber walls and a serene Japanese-style garden visible through a window.
A treatment at Auriga Spa might be the best way I’ve ever started a hotel stay. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

While this treatment certainly hasn’t had a Benjamin Button effect, my sister seems to think I’m glowing, so I walk away happy, or at the very least, zen.

Auriga Spa has a sauna, steam room, ice fountain and a beautiful indoor heated swimming pool. There’s also “experiential showers" – new to me, but essentially it combines water flowing from different places, changing temperatures, mood lighting, gentle sounds, and a subtle lemongrass scent.

You could easily spend the better part of a day at the spa and pool, even if you’re not a guest.

The indoor heated swimming pool with glass ceiling at Capella Sydney.
Guests outside the hotel can use the spa and swimming pool. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

I’m escorted to my room, drunk on relaxation, but I make sure to take note of how noisy the hallways are – answer: dead quiet. My room is 50 square metres, which is huge by hotel standards, but particularly for one in the CBD. It feels like a high-end apartment with floorboards, a freestanding bath and a seating/dining area. My eyes are immediately drawn to the line-up of macarons waiting for me on the dining table. 

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

A hotel bathroom with a freestanding bath overlooking Sydney Harbour Bridge
The Liberty Suite looks out to the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
A modern hotel room with a monochrome palette.
Premier Rooms feature freestanding baths.
A modern hotel room looking out to lush greenery.
Skyline Rooms are a generous 65 metres squared.
A modern hotel room looking out to a clock tower.
Clock tower views from the Liberty Suite.
A stylish hotel room blending heritage charm and modern design, featuring steel-framed windows, minimalist furniture, and contemporary decor.
Rooms are spacious and feel like high-end apartments.

I’m thrilled to see the mini bar armoire includes a small wine fridge stocked with Minuty Prestige Côtes de Provence, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Handpicked Wines Pinot Noir, and Moët Grand Vintage. Not that I plan on using it (I simply could not justify the prices) – but it’s a nice extra that makes the room feel that much more luxurious. The drinks lineup reads like a who’s-who of local favourites – Young Henrys, Maybe Sammy cocktails, Four Pillars gin and Archie Rose gin. Snacks include Tyrell’s chips, Pringles, Natural Confectionery lollies, and a Carman’s oat bar. 

Some small touches I appreciate that some hotels don’t offer: the option to choose your housekeeping time, an iron that actually works well, a Bluetooth speaker, the beloved wine fridge, aluminium water bottles and a bathroom without a glass door or screen that awkwardly exposes you. The one downside is that some of these rooms don’t offer much in the way of a view.

A modern hotel room with a monochrome paletter.
I stayed in a Premier Room which was elegant and relaxing. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

4:30pm is Swill Hour – a daily tradition that nods to the historical “six o’clock swill" in Australia. This one-hour event takes place in the Living Room and invites guests to gather and enjoy each other’s company with a signature cocktail in hand. This afternoon’s tipple is a Eucalyptus Gimlet, a clever, herbaceous little cocktail, by the multi-award-winning Maybe Sammy Team, served on coasters depicting drawings of the historic building. The canapé of the day is a tomato and stracciatella tart. I noticed several staff members chatting with guests like old friends, asking how their adventures earlier in the day went – clearly remembering previous conversations from earlier visits. 

Dinner is booked for 6:30pm in Aperture – arguably the most beautiful area of the accommodation. It’s decorated with Australian flora and features a kinetic sculpture hanging from the roof that opens like flowers, with softly changing lights. Tyler, who is serving us, clearly admires the Capella brand, speaking enthusiastically about the other international properties he’s been to and sharing how he sometimes brings his five-year-old daughter here to use the pool.

Interior of Aperture at Capella Sydney, featuring lush greenery and a striking ceiling-mounted sculpture.
The scale of Aperture gives it an international feel.

I kick things off with a basil melon margarita – a winning recommendation – before tucking into the best prawn toast I’ve ever had. For mains it’s crispy Ōra King salmon and spaghetti with mud crab. 

When I arrive back at my room, there’s a vegan leather journal on my bed with a note that says: “The ritual of journaling allows us to pause, reflect and focus." This is part of the turndown service, and my slippers are neatly lined up next to my bed. Will I journal? No. Do I think it’s a nice touch? Yes.

Brasserie 1930 at Capella Sydney, where Art Deco elegance meets contemporary Australian cuisine.
Brasserie 1930 boasts Art Deco elegance.

The next morning, I make the predictable choice of smashed avo for breakfast at the on-site restaurant, Brasserie 1930. There’s also a buffet brimming with all the usual suspects.

Afterwards, I head to the pool to relax for a few hours before the 11am checkout. Despite my earlier resolve not to journal, I find myself reflecting nonetheless – an irony not lost on me – on my 21st hotel stay in Sydney. I write this with growing assurance that great hotels don’t just provide a place to stay; they create memorable moments, thanks in large part to fantastic staff. Kudos to the hiring manager.

Housed in a heritage sandstone beauty, Capella Sydney blends history with modern luxury – soaring ceilings, native blooms, glowing artworks and a spa that’s pure bliss.

Next stop: The Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Hobart!

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Rachael Thompson
Rachael Thompson is a freelance travel journalist. With a background in design and travel media, Rachael is dedicated to curating content that is as much informational as it is beautiful. She began her career at Belle magazine, before taking up editorial roles at Homes to Love, Bed Threads and Australian Traveller/International Traveller. When she's not writing, editing or optimising content, Rachael enjoys exploring the city's newest restaurants, bars and hotels. Next on her Aussie travel wish list is Lord Howe Island.
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8 reasons Moree should be on your next road trip itinerary

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    Discover what makes this country town the perfect place to slow down, switch off and recharge.

    At first glance, the country town of Moree may look like just another charming highway town, with heritage buildings, a leafy town centre and classic pubs the locals love. However, this regional New South Wales town is Australia’s Artesian Spa Capital, a wellness hub with a rich Indigenous cultural history and a growing reputation as a destination for slow travel.

    Moree is ideally located at the crossroads of the Gwydir and Newell highways (and is also easily reached by train and air), making it a refreshing destination, or stop, on any road trip. And these eight experiences show why.

    1. Taste Moree on a Plate

    Westpac Helicopter Rescue Service team with their Seafood Paella at the 2019 Moree on a Plate Festival
    Taste the best of regional produce and culinary talent. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Time your trip for Mother’s Day weekend in May, and you’ll find yourself in the middle of the popular annual food and wine festival, Moree on a Plate, celebrating regional produce and culinary talent from the region’s fertile plains.

    Browse the stalls and sample olives, pecans, citrus fruits, honey, boutique wines and handmade condiments. You can also enjoy live cooking demonstrations by celebrity chefs, a local barbecue competition, plein-air art, live music and a dedicated children’s activity area.

    2. Experience artesian waters

    woman at the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
    Chill out in Moree’s famous artesian waters.

    Moree’s famous artesian waters have attracted visitors for over 130 years. First discovered by accident in 1895, this mineral-rich, naturally heated water is drawn from deep within the Great Artesian Basin. Soak and slow down in the recently renovated pools at the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre, where you can choose between the active pool with massaging water jets or the passive pool for a more relaxing experience.

    For a longer soak, stay at one of the many motels within walking distance of the aquatic centre. Or book a stay with its own artesian pools.

    Gwydir Thermal Pools Motel & Caravan Park has five on-site thermal pools and a broad range of accommodation, while the Phoenix Resort offers both indoor spas and outdoor thermal pools as well as recently upgraded self-contained apartments and motel rooms. Meanwhile, the Artesian Spa Motel is set on five acres of landscaped gardens and features swimming and thermal pools, including an indoor artesian spa and an on-site restaurant.

    3. Enjoy an arty experience

    Bank Art Museum Moree
    Step inside the gorgeous Bank Art Museum Moree. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    To connect with Moree’s artistic side, head to Bank Art Museum Moree (BAMM), an independent contemporary art gallery housed in a beautifully preserved, Federation-era bank dating back to 1910. Inside, a nationally significant collection celebrates the art and culture of the Gamilaroi/Kamilaroi people and other First Nations artists alongside regional Australian art, while changing exhibitions offer something new.

    Follow the Moree Art Mural Trail through the CBD, and you’ll pass large-scale murals and small galleries reflecting stories of the town’s people, history and culture. While you’re exploring this open-air gallery, look out for the eclectic mix of Art Deco and early 20th-century architecture, including the Moree Courthouse and the striking Capitol Theatre facade.

    4. Discover cotton country

    Aerial overlooking cotton farming in progress on the Newport Cotton Farm, Moree
    Learn more about Moree’s cotton industry. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Surrounded by the black-soil plains of the Gwydir Valley, Moree is at the centre of one of Australia’s major cotton-growing areas. Visit between March and May, and you’ll see fields covered in the distinctive fluffy white cotton bolls being harvested by huge machinery.

    Trace the cotton from paddock to fabric on the Cotton Farm and Gin tour, running from April to September. You’ll visit a cotton farm and a working cotton gin up close, where you’ll see the cotton fibres separated from the seeds. Tours run weekly and include transfers.

    5. Explore the Moree Plains

    care driving around moree
    Head out of town to explore the plains.

    Outside of the city centre, Moree is surrounded by charming rural villages dotted around the plains. The quiet village of Boomi, around 90 kilometres north-west of Moree, offers historic early 20th-century architecture, its own artesian thermal waters at the Boomi Artesian Baths and vast outback skies.

    Further west, the pioneer border town of Mungindi straddles the Barwon River between New South Wales and Queensland. Follow the 2.5-kilometre sculpture trail to take in the outdoor public art, and you’ll cross the state border twice.

    6. Relax by the water

    bird at Gwydir Wetlands in moree
    Spot the locals at Gwydir Wetlands.

    Just a short drive away, the peaceful Tareelaroi Weir Recreation Area makes the most of the meandering Gwydir River. Set up camp along the riverside and enjoy picnicking, fishing and swimming.

    A little further afield, the Gwydir Wetlands are home to 75 recorded waterbird species, including brolgas, magpie geese, egrets, spoonbills, ibis and black-necked storks, also known as jabirus. Watchers can settle into the hide at Waterbird Lagoon, or follow a short walking trail through the wetlands, keeping an eye out for rare species.

    7. Immerse in local Indigenous culture

    Terry Hie Hie Aboriginal Area
    Learn about the history of the Gamilaroi People.

    Moree lies on the traditional lands of the Gamilaroi People, whose connection to the land stretches back thousands of years. Today, visitors can learn about this history at Terry Hie Hie Aboriginal Area, which includes the 3.5 kilometre Yana-y Warruwi Walking Track.

    Back in town, the Open Space Aboriginal Art Trail allows you to enjoy the Mehi River with a free, self-guided public art trail of work from local Indigenous artists and their personal connection to Country. Finish with a visit to the remarkable Dhiiyaan Aboriginal Centre, where more than 110,000 family genealogies are recorded. Browse artefacts, art and over 15,000 photographs. There are also changing exhibitions of historical photographs and local art.

    8. Local cafe culture

    Barista making a coffee order at 61 Balo Cafe, Moree
    Get amongst’s Moree’s vibrant cafe scene. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    From relaxed country cafes to stylish modern eateries, Moree’s CBD has a surprisingly vibrant foodie scene. There are plenty of spots to choose from for a freshly brewed coffee, long lunch or tasty dinner, featuring menus showcasing local produce and loads of country charm.

    If you’d rather dine in the great outdoors, grab a takeaway coffee or a picnic and head to leafy Jellicoe Park, a riverside oasis just a short walk from the centre of town. Pick a spot under the trees, enjoy the park’s art installations and keep watch for waterbirds along the river.

    Start planning your Moree retreat at visitmoreeplains.com.au.