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I’ve stayed in 21 hotels in Sydney and this is my favourite

Welcome to Hotel Addict, a monthly column where I check into Australia’s best hotels and share what makes them worthy of your wishlist.

Hotel stays have become my niche. Long before I became a travel journalist, I was booking staycations just for a change of scenery. Some were charming and full of character, while others left much to be desired. Once, I even stayed in a hotel directly opposite my own apartment – partly for the novelty, partly because I wanted to see my life from a different angle.

Hotels have a certain allure to them and whenever I see one I find myself wanting to know what lies within. The best ones, to me, are designed with thoughtful elements that reflect the city they sit in, and at their heart, passionate staff who go above and beyond to foster an unforgettable experience. Time seems to pause in these spaces which have increasingly become a destination in their own right.

It only felt fitting for the first hotel in this series to be in my home city and at the hotel that’s been at the top of my list: Capella Sydney. 

A sandstone heritage building and palm trees
Capella sits within an Edwardian Baroque‑style sandstone building.

An email with a hotel program from the “Culturist Team" lets me know this will be a luxurious stay. There’s a guided walk around the Botanic Gardens, a weaving workshop and a Sydney contemporary art tour – the kind of addition that signals a hotel that’s tuned into the more refined details and one that’s not surprising given Capella’s ethos centres on delivering personalised, immersive experiences. 

Capella opened in 2023 within a transformed Edwardian Baroque‑style sandstone building in Sydney’s CBD that was originally designed by renowned Scottish-Australian architect George McRae. I often walk past this building and once attended an event inside – I distinctly remember being surprised by how beautiful it was. Bar Studio, Make Architects, and stylist Simone Haag were engaged to sensitively adapt the building for contemporary luxury while honouring its past, in collaboration with Heritage NSW and the City of Sydney.

Art hanging in a historic hotel foyer
The grand entry is beautifully enhanced by striking contemporary artworks.
A large bouquet of Australian native flowers sitting on a table.
Large bouquets of Australian natives elevate the public spaces.
A large contemporary painting hanging above a modern desk and chairs.
The design strikes the perfect balance between grandness and intimacy.
The foyer and Aperture dining area of Capella Sydney
The expansive foyer and Aperture dining area.
A marble fireplace with objet d'art on the mantle.
Each space is layered to perfection.

When I arrive, I’m greeted by three different staff members along the way to reception. There’s a lovely subtle scent, which I later learn combines notes of bergamot, green tea leaves, peony, freesia, vetiver and cedarwood. This hotel strikes such a beautiful balance between grandness and intimacy, with large floral bouquets, contemporary artworks, impressively high ceilings that give it an international feel and quieter nooks to unwind in. Each space is unique, but they’re all unified by a warm, textural and layered design.

Sydney has been deserving of a hotel of this calibre for quite some time, with many of the accommodations in the city looking and feeling dated.

A modern hotel reception with high ceilings
The design strikes the perfect balance between grandness and intimacy.

I have a treatment booked at the hotel’s Auriga Spa prior to check-in. The space is ultra-luxe, moodily lit and intimate, featuring timber joinery, green walls and a sleek design that’s so perfect it almost transports me to Japan. I opt for the Replenish Beauty and LED Facial – a strategic choice with a TV segment on the horizon, and a hopeful bid to look extra fresh for the camera.

The treatment begins with me sitting in the softest robe of my life, wearing slippers and sipping chamomile tea. I’m then whisked away to my private treatment room, which has its own bathroom, a large skylight and a small Japanese-style garden. The treatment is extremely relaxing and moves through cleansing, exfoliating, massaging (arm, head, neck and face) and LED Light Therapy. There’s so much attention to detail – even at the end, the facialist puts my slippers back on me, while I’m still lying down.

Spa treatment room with a massage bed, featuring timber walls and a serene Japanese-style garden visible through a window.
A treatment at Auriga Spa might be the best way I’ve ever started a hotel stay. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

While this treatment certainly hasn’t had a Benjamin Button effect, my sister seems to think I’m glowing, so I walk away happy, or at the very least, zen.

Auriga Spa has a sauna, steam room, ice fountain and a beautiful indoor heated swimming pool. There’s also “experiential showers" – new to me, but essentially it combines water flowing from different places, changing temperatures, mood lighting, gentle sounds, and a subtle lemongrass scent.

You could easily spend the better part of a day at the spa and pool, even if you’re not a guest.

The indoor heated swimming pool with glass ceiling at Capella Sydney.
Guests outside the hotel can use the spa and swimming pool. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

I’m escorted to my room, drunk on relaxation, but I make sure to take note of how noisy the hallways are – answer: dead quiet. My room is 50 square metres, which is huge by hotel standards, but particularly for one in the CBD. It feels like a high-end apartment with floorboards, a freestanding bath and a seating/dining area. My eyes are immediately drawn to the line-up of macarons waiting for me on the dining table. 

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A hotel bathroom with a freestanding bath overlooking Sydney Harbour Bridge
The Liberty Suite looks out to the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
A modern hotel room with a monochrome palette.
Premier Rooms feature freestanding baths.
A modern hotel room looking out to lush greenery.
Skyline Rooms are a generous 65 metres squared.
A modern hotel room looking out to a clock tower.
Clock tower views from the Liberty Suite.
A stylish hotel room blending heritage charm and modern design, featuring steel-framed windows, minimalist furniture, and contemporary decor.
Rooms are spacious and feel like high-end apartments.

I’m thrilled to see the mini bar armoire includes a small wine fridge stocked with Minuty Prestige Côtes de Provence, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Handpicked Wines Pinot Noir, and Moët Grand Vintage. Not that I plan on using it (I simply could not justify the prices) – but it’s a nice extra that makes the room feel that much more luxurious. The drinks lineup reads like a who’s-who of local favourites – Young Henrys, Maybe Sammy cocktails, Four Pillars gin and Archie Rose gin. Snacks include Tyrell’s chips, Pringles, Natural Confectionery lollies, and a Carman’s oat bar. 

Some small touches I appreciate that some hotels don’t offer: the option to choose your housekeeping time, an iron that actually works well, a Bluetooth speaker, the beloved wine fridge, aluminium water bottles and a bathroom without a glass door or screen that awkwardly exposes you. The one downside is that some of these rooms don’t offer much in the way of a view.

A modern hotel room with a monochrome paletter.
I stayed in a Premier Room which was elegant and relaxing. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

4:30pm is Swill Hour – a daily tradition that nods to the historical “six o’clock swill" in Australia. This one-hour event takes place in the Living Room and invites guests to gather and enjoy each other’s company with a signature cocktail in hand. This afternoon’s tipple is a Eucalyptus Gimlet, a clever, herbaceous little cocktail, by the multi-award-winning Maybe Sammy Team, served on coasters depicting drawings of the historic building. The canapé of the day is a tomato and stracciatella tart. I noticed several staff members chatting with guests like old friends, asking how their adventures earlier in the day went – clearly remembering previous conversations from earlier visits. 

Dinner is booked for 6:30pm in Aperture – arguably the most beautiful area of the accommodation. It’s decorated with Australian flora and features a kinetic sculpture hanging from the roof that opens like flowers, with softly changing lights. Tyler, who is serving us, clearly admires the Capella brand, speaking enthusiastically about the other international properties he’s been to and sharing how he sometimes brings his five-year-old daughter here to use the pool.

Interior of Aperture at Capella Sydney, featuring lush greenery and a striking ceiling-mounted sculpture.
The scale of Aperture gives it an international feel.

I kick things off with a basil melon margarita – a winning recommendation – before tucking into the best prawn toast I’ve ever had. For mains it’s crispy Ōra King salmon and spaghetti with mud crab. 

When I arrive back at my room, there’s a vegan leather journal on my bed with a note that says: “The ritual of journaling allows us to pause, reflect and focus." This is part of the turndown service, and my slippers are neatly lined up next to my bed. Will I journal? No. Do I think it’s a nice touch? Yes.

Brasserie 1930 at Capella Sydney, where Art Deco elegance meets contemporary Australian cuisine.
Brasserie 1930 boasts Art Deco elegance.

The next morning, I make the predictable choice of smashed avo for breakfast at the on-site restaurant, Brasserie 1930. There’s also a buffet brimming with all the usual suspects.

Afterwards, I head to the pool to relax for a few hours before the 11am checkout. Despite my earlier resolve not to journal, I find myself reflecting nonetheless – an irony not lost on me – on my 21st hotel stay in Sydney. I write this with growing assurance that great hotels don’t just provide a place to stay; they create memorable moments, thanks in large part to fantastic staff. Kudos to the hiring manager.

Housed in a heritage sandstone beauty, Capella Sydney blends history with modern luxury – soaring ceilings, native blooms, glowing artworks and a spa that’s pure bliss.

Next stop: The Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Hobart!

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Rachael Thompson
Rachael Thompson is a freelance travel journalist. With a background in design and travel media, Rachael is dedicated to curating content that is as much informational as it is beautiful. She began her career at Belle magazine, before taking up editorial roles at Homes to Love, Bed Threads and Australian Traveller/International Traveller. When she's not writing, editing or optimising content, Rachael enjoys exploring the city's newest restaurants, bars and hotels. Next on her Aussie travel wish list is Lord Howe Island.
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After dark: 6 experiences along the Murray lighting up the night

(Credit: Serena Munro)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    See the Murray region in an entirely different light by exploring its night-time experiences and attractions.

    By day, the mighty Murray River is a majestic and ever-changing sight, with river red gums and wetlands stretching along 2500 kilometres. But by night, its cities, towns, villages and landscapes totally transform.

    From Albury Wodonga to Mildura, and everywhere in between, you’ll be in for a multi-sensory and memorable treat encompassing mesmerising light shows, guided ghost tours and vibrant celebrations that capture the nocturnal magic of the river.

    This is no ordinary nighttime adventure; the region becomes an entirely different world when the sun sets. Discover six must-do activities along the Murray that can only be enjoyed after dark.

    1. Share in ghostly tales

    Port After Dark tour Murray at night
    Hold on to your nerve when learning local ghost stories. (Credit: Campaspe Shire Council)

    If you’re up for something a little more spine-tingling, Port After Dark in Echuca is your best bet. Rumour has it that the Port of Echuca Wharf and the buildings around it have long been home to lingering ghosts and mysterious events – like the vengeful woman said to haunt an old tramway bridge and spirits searching for stolen money through the town centre.

    You can hear all about them on this guided lantern tour, which takes place on Wednesday and Saturday nights after dark. The stories are atmospheric and intriguing – you may even spot a ghost or two yourself. If you’d like a more intimate experience, private tours are also available to groups of 15 or more.

    2. Wander art installations

    Bruce Munroe's Fibre Optic Symphoinic Orchestra Murray at night
    See Bruce Munro’s immersive art installation. (Credit: Serena Munro)

    Right near the Perry Sandhills, sits an experience that feels almost otherworldly. Artist Bruce Munro (of Uluru’s Field of Lights fame) has created a Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra, a network of 80 Hills Hoists illuminated with fibre optic light combined with the sounds of an orchestra. The clotheslines glow and pulse in time to the specially composed score, immersing you in a dreamscape of light and sound.

    For a different light experience, you’ll find stillness at Trail of Lights, also curated by Munro. Located just 30 minutes away on Lock Island in Mildura, thousands of lights stretch over the landscape, spotlighting both the river and a series of Munro’s sculptures. The trail is intended to be a peaceful and meditative setting for wandering and reflecting.

    3. Learn through lasers

    Heartbeat of the Murray at night
    Travel 30 million years into the Murray’s past at Heartbeat of the Murray. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

    Discover a fascinating history in this dual act of lights and projections on the banks of the Little Murray River. Legends of the Mallee is a multimedia show in Swan Hill combining lasers and lights, which tells the story of the region’s rich past. Learn about the Wamba Wamba and Wadi Wadi Peoples who first inhabited the area, as well as the figures and events that shaped the Mallee of today.

    The river steals the spotlight in the Heartbeat of the Murray, a multimedia spectacle inside the Pioneer Settlement encompassing lights, lasers, sound and special effects against the natural backdrop. Through a sequence of large-scale animated projections, you’ll go back 30 million years to explore the Murray River’s formation before travelling to the present to learn how it supports modern communities.

    4. Light up the lake

    Lake Mulwala Laser Light Show Murray at night
    Watch the lights and lasers of Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Mulwala Water Ski Club)

    Travelling with kids? Head to Yarrawonga Mulwala and nearby Lake Mulwala for the family-friendly Laser Light & Sound Show. Lights and lasers are projected over the lake and onto curtains of fog, creating a colourful and high-energy visual display. The show suits all ages and tastes, set to a mix of songs that everyone knows and loves.

    You can take in the spectacle from either the grassy banks of the lake or book a table at the Mulwala Water Ski Club’s Malibu Deck Cafe, serving pub-style food and refreshing drinks, including excellent classic cocktails. If you’re watching from the foreshore, the show is entirely free, making it a great budget-friendly option.

    5. Be captivated by local culture

    Bullanginya Dreaming Murray at night
    Soak in the culture of the Bangerang People. (Credit: Laser Vision)

    Set aside an evening to explore Bullanginya Dreaming in Cobram Barooga – you’ll want ample time to take in the stories and symbolism of this immersive laser light and sound trail. The 1.8-kilometre trail explores the storytelling and culture of the Bangerang People, who have long cared for the lands around Bullanginya Lagoon in Barooga. The trail features 12 activations – each telling a different story – and combines dramatic lights and lasers with water and fire.

    Intertwined with the visual displays are Bangerang narratives, giving you meaningful insight into the area’s Indigenous heritage. It’s designed to be explored over 90 or so minutes, encouraging you to move slowly and thoughtfully.

    6. Discover a winter glow

    winterglow festival
    See the streets of Albury Wodonga come to life after dark. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

    Albury Wodonga comes alive as the weather drops, with an annual celebration of the season on Saturday, 15 August. WinterGlow takes over the CBD and features a vibrant program of things to see, do, learn, eat and drink.

    Take part in hands-on workshops that let you try different art forms and crafts. Feast on street food and winter warmers from local eateries. Browse for artisan wares at the night markets. Watch musical acts on the main stage. Or get involved in different activations, including a silent disco and giant maze. Artificial snow will be falling to add to the festive atmosphere.

    Even wandering the streets and laneways and soaking up the late-night energy will leave you feeling enchanted.

    Start planning a day-to-night adventure along the Murray at visitthemurray.com.au.