This is the eastern half of the Savannah Way, if you are considering doing it all, then you will also need our itinerary and guide to the western half, Darwin to Broom.
Here’s our 14-day adventure itinerary outlining the why, what and where of this eastern half of the trans-continental Savannah Way.
Morning fog at Litchfield National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia/Nicholas Kavo)
Leave early and follow the Bruce Highway south from Cairns. Turn onto Route 52 into the rainforest-clad Atherton Tablelands. Take a break at Lake Eacham, and admire Little Millstream Falls near Ravenshoe. You’re now on Route 1 (National Highway) all the way to Darwin. Continue west to Undara Experience – try to arrive in time for a sunset wildlife tour. Accommodation here ranges from cabins to converted railway carriages and a campground.
Families enjoying a sunset dip at Cairns Esplanade Lagoon.
After yesterday’s long drive, relax in Undara Volcanic National Park, where the outback begins and 164 ancient volcanoes pepper the landscape. Early morning is perfect for admiring the abundant birdlife. Then explore the amazing lava tubes, go bushwalking or mountain biking, and admire bats and stars after sunset.
Group in Undara Lava tubes.
Continue west to former gold-mining settlement Georgetown and check out the mineral collection at The Terrestrial Centre. Your destination for the night, Croydon, also has a gold-mining history and has an interesting heritage precinct.
Consider detouring to Cobbold Gorge for an afternoon cruise surrounded by sculpted red sandstone cliffs. This will however take an extra day. Stay at luxe Gilberton Outback Retreat and explore rock art, gold-mining history and wildlife.
Georgetown Pioneer Walk.
The Savannah Way skirts the Gulf of Carpentaria, but this is one of a few chances to see the coast. First, pass through Mutton Hole Wetlands north of Normanton for stunning birdlife, including brolgas and black swans. Karumba is a great spot to charter a fishing boat. Visit the fascinating Barramundi Discovery Centre and enjoy an evening meal at the Sunset Tavern.
Enjoy an evening meal at the Karumba Sunset Tavern.
Hard to resist pausing in Normanton for a photo at its eight-metre crocodile (relax, it’s a replica) and lurid Purple Pub. Burketown on the Albert River is another terrific spot to tackle barramundi, so be sure to pack your fishing rod, or you can hire one locally. Take a sunset cruise or stargazing tour with indigenous-owned Yagurli Tours.
Hard to resist pausing in Normanton for a photo at its eight-metre crocodile.
Whiz on west, filling up with petrol at Hells’ Gate Roadhouse and passing over the border into the Northern Territory. Your destination is working cattle station Seven Emu Station, where the campsites overlook the Robinson River. Enjoy birdwatching, fishing for trevally and mackerel, and chatting to the Shadforth family about their traditional Garawa culture. Seven Emu Station is accessible by 4WD only. Check road conditions before visiting.
Stock up on supplies at Borroloola. Birdwatchers should detour to Caranbirini Conservation Reserve, keen anglers to King Ash Bay, renowned for its barramundi. Then head into the 4000-square-kilometre Lorella Springs Wilderness Park, which has a choice of camping or air-conditioned cabins.
Lorella Springs waterhole. (Image: Tourism NT/Kate Flowers)
Enjoy a day’s R&R at Lorella Springs Wilderness Park, which is surrounded by Indigenous land and Limmen National Park’s abundant waterways, savannah, beach-scalloped coast, gorges and rocks formations such as the rusted columns nicknamed the Lost City.
The Emerald Pool, Lorella Springs from above.
This is the quintessential NT wilderness experience. You might discover waterfalls, thermal springs, rock art and fossils. Fishing, swimming, bushwalking and birdwatching will also keep you occupied.
Woman cooling off at the waterholes of Lorella Springs. (Image: Tourism NT/Kate Flowers)
There’s no hiding the fact you have a long, lonely drive today, and not a single town along the way except Arnold, population about 30. Then you hit the Stuart Highway that runs from Darwin to Adelaide. Turn right and aim to stay at The Daly Waters Pub, which has motel, cabins, budget rooms and camping. The eccentric outback pub features bras hanging from the ceiling, and great beef-and-barramundi barbecues during the dry season.
Stay at The Daly Waters Pub, which has motel, cabins, budget rooms and camping. (Image: Tourism NT/Kate Flowers)
Head north, pausing at Larrimah, which has another historic bush pub and Second World War museum, and at Mataranka, made famous in the 1908 Jeannie Gunn novel, We of the Never-Never. You will find turquoise spring water pools perfect for a plunge in adjacent Elsey National Park, a landscape patchworked with savannah woodland, stone country and monsoon rainforest. Overnight in Katherine or 20 minutes away at Katherine Gorge, where you’ll find campgrounds and the luxury Cicada Lodge.
Stay overnight at the luxury Cicada Lodge. (Image: David Hancock)
You’ll want to spend the day in this series of spectacular gorges in Nitmiluk National Park and stay for sunset, when the cliffs glow red. Take a river cruise, paddle a hired kayak and take to the hiking trails. It is worth splashing out on a scenic flight, which offers breathtaking views over the stunning countryside. Check out the newly reopened Baruwei Lookout for jaw-dropping views over the ancient gorge system. (nitmiluktours.com.au)
The outback scenery of Nitmiluk (Katherine) gorge.
As you head out the next day, Leliyn (Edith Falls) is another Nitmiluk National Park must-see just north of Katherine, where you can enjoy a swim or hike. Your next stops should be former gold-rush town Pine Creek and Adelaide River, famous for its jumping crocodile cruises. Finish your day in accommodation at Batchelor, gateway to Litchfield National Park, or camp in the park itself.
Swim in the serene waterhole of Leliyn (Edith Falls) in Nitmiluk National Park. (Image: Tourism NT/Mitch Cox)
There are plenty of waterfalls and waterholes in Litchfield National Park that are accessible via sealed roads: Florence Falls and Buley Rockhole are popular among both locals and visitors. Head to Wangi Falls where you can take a short rainforest walk or book a scenic heli flight year-round. Don’t forget to stop for a photo at the peculiar looking magnetic termite mounds along the way, which take on an orange glow at sunset.
Aerial view of someone swimming at Florence Falls. (Image: Tourism NT/Jackson Groves)
Your destination is in sight, but you might also consider stopping at Berry Springs Nature Park for a swim and Territory Wildlife Park to see the full range of outback animals, including nocturnal creatures seldom seen in the wild.
Berry Springs Nature Park, where the cooling blue-green woodland pools call out for a swim.
Distances are approximate; add on detours. Hours refer to driving time only.
You need a 4WD, as sections of road on this route are unsealed. You could, however, do the first and last sections in a 2WD.
Travel in the dry season (from May to October). Avoid the wet season, as roads may be impassable and you risk getting stranded.
Keep watch on the fuel gauge, as petrol stations are infrequent. Carry water and consider bringing a satellite phone, as mobile reception can be patchy or non-existent.
Don’t swim without authoritative local advice, since waterways may be inhabited by saltwater crocodiles.
Cairns Esplanade Lagoon at sunset.
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Good trip
Lorella Springs is a 4WD wonderland but make sure you go there before the waterholes dry out. The roads from Hells Gate and beyond are really tough so take it easy and have an extra spare tyre.