12 emerging experiences in South Australia

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Journey with our writers as they take you into South Australia’s top 12 emerging travel experiences from our 100 Emerging Destinations and Experiences series.

1. Beneath the surface in Mount Gambier

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

When the sun rises over the Kilsby Sinkhole in Mount Gambier on South Australia’s Limestone Coast, it honeys the ribs of the limestone cave and gilds the water as blue as steel. From above, it’s like an aquamarine jewel that deepens and darkens, depending on the sun glancing this way and that throughout the day. While this ancient geographical marvel has been used for recreational diving since the late 1960s, it’s now a core part of operations for the Kilsby family farm, which has been going strong for four generations.

Access to the site is by booking only, but you can take a tour of the ancient water-filled pool, snorkel or dive beneath its gleaming surface and sample, in situ, the Sinkhole Gin distilled from the aquifer that feeds this karst cavity.

diving underneath the Kilsby Sinkhole
The sun beams radiate to the depths of Kilsby Sinkhole. (Image: Adam Stern)

2. Adelaide’s emerging Inner West

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

The fragrant Afghan soul food at Parwana has long drawn Adelaideans to Torrensville and it’s still full every night of the week, even after doubling the floor space. But a spate of recent openings in the neighbourhood has provided plenty of other reasons to head west. Watch the in-house roaster in action while you get your caffeine fix at ultra-hip Elementary Coffee, then wander down to Lenny’s Records where the genial owner specialises in left-of-centre rock, folk and psychedelic music.

a soul food at Parwana Afghan Kitchen
Savour flavourful goodness at Parwana Afghan Kitchen. (Image: Josie Withers)

Head further west to Brookie P (aka Brooklyn Park), where the latest ventures from female-fronted hospitality group Sonic Yoni are about to open in the former council chambers; Yellow Matter is an inclusive brewery prioritising accessibility and So Long, Marianne is a menu-less wine bar with degustations that change daily to minimise waste.

the inside venue of Parwana Afghan Kitchen
A mix of blues occupies the interior of Parwana Afghan Kitchen. (Image: Josie Withers)

3. Trailblazing in the Southern Flinders Ranges

Travelling with: Taylah Darnell

Spanning from the ocean in Port Pirie to the red-dirt plains of Peterborough, South Australia’s Southern Flinders Ranges are bursting at the seams with prospect. New mountain-biking trails will open later this year in Mount Remarkable National Park, designed by TrailScapes using machinery with minimal environmental impact and in consultation with the Nukunu Wapma Thura (Aboriginal Corporation).

guests during a yoga session in the Southern Flinders Ranges
Bask in peace at your wellness retreat.

The project has been years in the making and includes the 42-kilometre Epic Mountain Bike Trail. Experience Melrose is taking advantage of the expansion, combining mountain biking with wellness retreats. Stay and play at Jacka Brothers Brewery in Melrose, a redeveloped heritage-listed site turned brewhouse that doubles as cosy accommodation, offering panoramic views of the Southern Flinders Ranges.

a car driving along the scenic Southern Flinders Ranges
Drive along the scenic mountain ranges. (Image: Anthony Anderson/@DroneDynamicsSA)

4. The rise and rise of Kangaroo Island

Travelling with: Imogen Eveson

Baillie Lodges has announced that Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island’s wild west coast will reopen in December and anticipations are running high for the re-emergence of the luxury lodge that was razed to the ground in the Black Summer bushfires.

huge boulders on Kangaroo Island
Immerse yourself in the coastal wilderness. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

To stay at Southern Ocean Lodge is to immerse yourself in the South Australian island itself – whether through the food on your plate or the coastal wilderness that surrounds you – and its reopening will be a symbolic line in the sand for the community and its regeneration over the past few years. And with the recent launches of other accommodation options that connect guests to the essence of the island, such as Wander on Kangaroo Island and Island Burrow, KI’s tourism game is going from strength to strength.

an aerial view of the scenic accommodation on Kangaroo Island
Soak up scenic views on Kangaroo Island. (Image: Wander/Remy Brand Creative)

5. A backstage pass to the best bits of the Barossa

Travelling with: Imogen Eveson

Having reopened in September last year following a ‘glamover’ courtesy of new owners Baillie Lodges, Barossa Valley stalwart The Louise is looking better than ever and offering guests a backstage pass to the best bits of the South Australian region. And you don’t have to stray far to find them.

a desk at Stonewell Suite, Barossa
The luxe new Stonewell Suite at The Louise is the ideal luxury escape. (Image: Stepney Studio)

Cross the road for a drink at Tscharke Wines, where Damien Tscharke is turning Barossa traditions on their head. With his single-minded dedication to organic winemaking and innovative development of grape varietals, Tscharke eschews the traditional cellar door experience in favour of a new wine bar concept, The Protagonist.

One of the boons of staying at The Louise – aside from waking in elegant suites to a blanket of vines all around and destination dining at Appellation – is ready access to in-the-know spots like this, with a passionate team enmeshed in the local community on hand to connect guests to personalised experiences.

a bed beside a window at Stonewell Suite
The modern rooms are sleek and cosy with pops of colour. (Image: Stepney Studio)

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6. See a 10,000-year-old tradition evolving in Goolwa

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

The middens dotting the sandhills around the mouth of the Murray River attest to the importance of kuti (pipis) to the Ngarrindjeri people, who have harvested and eaten these plump bivalves for countless generations. And after dismissing them as bait for years, chefs of fine diners are finally cottoning on to their potential. In a small shed flanked by colossal dunes on South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula, battered by the winds coming off the Southern Ocean, Kuti Shack heroes the tasty molluscs harvested by Ngarrindjeri-owned Kuti Co by serving them in laksas and with decadently rich chilli jam, lemongrass and crusty sourdough.

a table top view of the meals at Kuti Shack
Indulge in a seafood feast at the Kuti Shack. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Fleurieu Peninsula Tourism)

Look further down the menu and you’ll find all the elements for a sustainable seafood feast with a strong emphasis on local species: think grilled wild-caught Coorong mullet, buttermilk fried mulloway wings and crispy carp belly goujons.

a dining setup overlooking the sea at Kuti Shack
Dine while overlooking the vast seascape. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Fleurieu Peninsula Tourism)

7. Wine meets sustainability in South Australia

Travelling with: Kate Symons

Google ‘Jock Harvey’ and ‘McLaren Vale’ and a defining quality of this community-minded local becomes quickly apparent. Jock wears many hats. As uncovered by the first three Google entries – McLaren Vale Distillery, Naked Wines and Chalk Hill Viticulture – he is a drinks guy. Scroll down a little further and there is another, perhaps even more telling, entry: Biodiversity McLaren Vale.

Co-founded by Jock in 2009, Biodiversity McLaren Vale (BMV) is a hands-on environmental stewardship initiative, run by volunteers and focused primarily on creek-line restoration. Monthly working bees attract scores of committed locals and planting partners include McLaren Vale wine brands Gemtree, Shingleback, Fox Creek, Bec Hardy and Pannell Enoteca.

a wine shack at Gemtree Wines
Drop by Gemtree Wines for a tasting. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

As South Australia’s first wine region – its wine-producing history dates to the 1830s – McLaren Vale is hardly emerging. Yet the renowned patch, positioned on the Fleurieu Peninsula, has reinvented itself of late and is now firmly established as one of the country’s most sustainable, not to mention incredible, wine regions.

According to Wine Australia, McLaren Vale is leading the way in organic practices, water management and climate-appropriate plantings, all key areas of the region’s own Sustainable Australia Winegrowing (SAW) Program. SAW ran from the early 2000s until 2019 at which point 72 per cent of McLaren Vale’s area under vine used the program to assess and improve practices. Thanks to its success, the program informed Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA), which is now the single national program for those committed to sustainable wine.

Interior of Hither & Yon in McLaren Vale
Hither & Yon has cleverly set up shop in Willunga, one of the region’s cute-as-you-like villages. (Image: Josie Withers)

Crucial to the region’s success is the presence of like-minded wine folk. “Cooperation has become a cultural thing [in McLaren Vale] that people want to protect," says Jock.

Sustainable winemaking practices are becoming more and more important to the consumer. A new report released by SWA last year found 67 per cent of those surveyed want to purchase only sustainably made wine. It’s no free ride, though. Certifications and credentials can’t do much for an average wine, nor your average wine region. Average, McLaren Vale is not.

There are more than 80 cellar doors in the region, from quaint set-ups such as Samson Tall to established digs such as Wirra Wirra, and the show-stopping d’Arenberg Cube, arguably the most impressive wine tourism attraction in the country.

d'Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale
See the show-stopping d’Arenberg Cube. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/ d’Arenberg Cube)

The Chalk Hill Collective site, which includes Never Never Distilling Co., Cucina di Strada and some of the best views the region has to offer, is perhaps one of the prettiest spots in the country on which to sit back and sip. Hither & Yon, meanwhile, has cleverly set up shop in Willunga, one of the region’s cute-as-you-like villages. From here, grab a cruiser and set off on the eight-kilometre Shiraz Trail. On Saturdays, the township bustles with the Willunga Farmers Market, the state’s first and still one of the country’s best.

A grape’s throw away, you’ll find yourself facing pristine coastline, of which McLaren Vale has 30 kilometres. This maritime influence has its impact on the region’s wine, which heavily favours red Mediterranean varieties. Almost, that is, as much as it favours sustainable practices.

a bartender serving wine in front of guests at Never Never Distilling Co.
Experience unique wine tasting at Never Never Distilling Co. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

8. A festival for grown-ups in Adelaide

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Harvest Rock is a music festival for people who’ve outgrown dusty mosh pits, long lines at the bar and overflowing loos, drawing crowds in for its rock-star chefs as much as its actual rock stars.

The inaugural 2022 festival saw headliners such as Jack White, Crowded House and Khruangbin share top billing with arkhé’s Jake Kellie, who cooked up a feast of flame-grilled share plates paired with wines selected by renowned critic Nick Stock.

Elsewhere, punters could find natural winemakers hosting tastings and an entire bar devoted to non-alcoholic options. Add to that a central location in the leafy parklands and plenty of space to move around. It’s the perfect festival for people who appreciate a boogie and a good meal but want to wake up feeling good the next morning.

a crowded concert venue at Harvest Rock Music Festival
Dance at the Harvest Rock Music Festival.

9. Find new connections at a biodynamic McLaren Vale winery

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Clusters of juicy shiraz and tempranillo grapes poke out beneath extravagant garlands of leaves as I drive through the vineyard at Gemtree Wines to a restored wetland that has been planted with 50,000 trees and shrubs. For custodians Mike and Melissa Brown, this is a labour of love that began when they bought the South Australian property in 1998. For Ngarrindjeri Elder Mark Koolmatrie, the connection goes back far longer.

a woman walking around the vineyard
Make your way to a restored wetland at Gemtree Wines. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

“This is Kaurna Country, but the same values exist as in Ngarrindjeri Land, which is just over that hill," he tells our small group on the Wuldi Cultural Experience. “Our people have a concept called ngartji that means everyone has to look after something. It could be a wombat or an emu or a waterway, but if we all play our role, together we look after the planet."

High above us, several sleepy rescue koalas are perched in the treetops. But Mark is just as excited about what’s going on at ground level. “These old logs don’t seem like much, but they create a habitat for beetles and bugs and lizards. And plants that look like weeds might provide food and shelter for a whole range of critters. Everything here plays its role."

wine glasses on the table at Gemtree Wines
Sample the range of Gemtree Wines. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

It’s a holistic approach that resonates with the biodynamic winemaking philosophy at Gemtree Wines, where soil, fruit, minerals and even the planets interact in a sublime cosmic dance. As the shadows grow longer, Mark leads us to a shed where glasses are filled with crisp fiano, juicy GSM and peppery shiraz.

We tuck into platters of food inspired by native ingredients such as crunchy macadamia and desert lime pesto wrapped in warrigal leaves. “Life can get pretty busy and it’s easy to forget what’s important," Mark says as the conversation steadily grows louder. “But everything seems simpler when you can get back to nature in a place like this."

a photo of Mark Koolmatrie
Mark Koolmatrie to host Wuldi at the Gemtree Eco Trail. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

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10. Go remote in the Nuyts Archipelago

Travelling with: Taylah Darnell

For those seeking their next Australian adventure, a remote and paradisiacal collection of islands await you off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. Be one of only 60 people a year that explore Nuyts Archipelago on a three-night expedition with EP Cruises that accentuates the splendours of this protected marine area in the Great Australian Bight.

Nuyts Archipelago, South Australia
Only 60 people a year are lucky enough to visit Nuyts Archipelago.

With room for only 10 expeditioners and three crew members, you’ll get a remarkable insight into the islands, beaches, reefs and wildlife that call the Nuyts Archipelago home. The expedition includes all camping and safety gear, a double swag, bathroom and kitchen facilities and rare island experiences such as cliff jumping, swimming with dolphins, birdwatching and nocturnal tours.

Nuyts Archipelago, South Australia
Explore an untouched underwater world.

11. Wander the Wild South Coast Way

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Less than two hours from Adelaide, Deep Creek National Park is filled with deep gorges, dappled sclerophyll forests and windswept clifftops looking across the treacherous Backstairs Passage to the rugged coastline of Kangaroo Island.

Wild South Coast Way in Deep Creek National Park, South Australia
Admire the rugged coastline of Kangaroo Island along the way. (Image: Heidi Who Photos)

Add in hidden coves ringed by granite boulders covered in orange lichen and the tannin-stained waters of an infamously cold waterfall, and it’s easy to see why the South Australian park is so popular with locals.

Wild South Coast Way in Deep Creek National Park, South Australia
Dappled sclerophyll forests surround the trail. (Image: Heidi Who Photos)

But you can avoid the masses by tackling the five-day Wild South Coast Way hike that connects Cape Jervis and Victor Harbor via new walk-in campsites, where the only crowds you’re likely to see are mobs of roos grazing on the yacca-studded slopes at sunset.

Wild South Coast Way in Deep Creek National Park, South Australia
The Wild Coast Way is perfect for adventurers who love nature. (Image: Heidi Who Photos)

As a bonus, download the geo-located National Parks app and you’ll trigger stories from park rangers and Traditional Owners at certain locations along the hike.

12. Rising above the Murray River

Travelling with: Emily Murphy

Once-in-a-century floods tore through South Australia’s Murray River regions in summer 2022, devastating communities in its wake. Recovery efforts have been fierce, and there’s never been a better time to discover the Riverland and Murray River, Lakes and Coorong regions.

The Floathouse on the Murray River, South Australia
Stay at The Floathouse on the Murray River. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

The Murray River, Lakes and Coorong is ideal for floating downstream on a houseboat, with the sounds of birds as your playlist and the dramatic sunset as your backdrop. Whereas the Riverland has its own unique flow of giant cliffs, wetlands, mallee scrub and is the country’s largest wine-producing region.

Admire the milky way in all its glory at the Dark Sky Reserve. (Image: Mark Bondarenko)

Don’t miss stargazing at the River Murray International Dark Sky Reserve , Australia’s first Dark Sky Reserve, to see the Milky Way at its most magical.

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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.