Maritime history meets coastal cool at the old sealing and whaling village of Port Fairy, writes Jo Stewart. Discover why Port Fairy landed at no.6 on your list of Top 50 Aussie Towns list.
Just beyond the end of the Great Ocean Road, historic Port Fairy could be the perfect set location for a British detective series. The spirits of whalers, sealers and fishermen may live on its 60-plus National Trust-classified buildings, but the town once known as Belfast isn’t stuck in the past. Behind its timeworn exterior, you’ll find a creative community with an eye on the future.
Eating there
For your morning caffeine hit, head to Port Fairy Coffee Roasters where you can also buy beans to take home (dark roast fans will love the Dead Man’s Blend). Bank St + Co is another go-to coffee and brunch spot.
Coffin Sally has set up shop in an old undertaker’s building, but there’s nothing dead about this jumping pizza joint. If you like carbs, booze and good times, don’t sleep on this place.
Perhaps a four-course tasting menu is more your style? Head to Conlan’s Wine Store to wine and dine in what was once a solicitor’s office.
Staying there
As Victoria’s oldest inn, the Merrijig Inn scores full marks for cosiness. Taste the handiwork of chef Tanya Connellan in the dining room, share a few yarns in the tiny front bar or retreat to the garden with a spritz in hand. Pro tip: if you’re more than six feet tall, give the dollhouse-style attic rooms a miss and book a suite instead.
Pamper yourself with a luxury stay at the Oak & Anchor.
Behind the Oak & Anchor hotel’s renovated heritage facade you’ll find seven dreamy, boutique suites furnished with freestanding bathtubs and Euro-style walk-in showers.
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Playing there
An inclusive space for book lovers, Blarney Books and Art is a much-loved local institution. Drop by to pick up a paperback – if you time your visit right, you could catch a book launch or author talk.
Browse the stylish boutiques and shops in Port Fairy.
During summer, wading in the (surprisingly) crystalline shallows of Pea Soup Beach is a must, especially at sunset when a golden glow warms the shoreline. Port Fairy is made for meandering, so head out on foot without a plan and see where life takes you.
Golden hour at the Port Fairy Lighthouse.
Stroll to the Griffiths Island Lighthouse and admire the classic, wooden boats moored along Moyne River. Bank and Sackville streets are where you’ll find most of the town’s bluestone pubs, cute cottages and historic shopfronts – close your eyes and you can almost hear the ghosts of salty sea-dogs with weathered faces and crude tattoos trading tall stories of the one that got away.
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Jo Stewart is a freelance features writer who pens stories about nature, pop culture, music, art, design and more from her home in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. When not writing, you can find her trawling through vinyl records and vintage fashion at op shops, antique stores and garage sales.
Get out of the city and close to nature in Victoria’s Heartland, one of Australia’s finest food-producing regions.
This fertile area is abundant in natural beauty, rich volcanic soils, mineral-rich waters, artisan producers and farm fresh produce. In towns spanning the Central Goldfields, Macedon Ranges and surrounds, just a short drive or easy train ride from Melbourne, you can taste a plethora of incredible food and world-class wine in these best of Victoria’s Heartland food regions.
1. Daylesford
Dine on the multi-course fare served at the elegant and light-filled Lake House Restaurant. (Credit: Visit Victoria)
Warm and inviting, fans of Japanese cuisine should make a beeline for Kadota. Settle in for Japanese flavours, in cocktail glasses and on the plate, that have been carefully produced using seasonal local ingredients.
For those who love a farm-to-table moment, Sault is the place to be. Fresh ingredients – directly from the restaurant’s kitchen gardens, or from regional organic farms and producers – are crafted into a delicious seasonal menu by Chef Hat-awarded Head Chef Jack Powlay.
Boasting gorgeous water views from its location on the banks of Lake Daylesford, Boathouse Restaurant is perfect for an elevated dining experience.
For a special treat, a visit to the two-chef-hatted restaurant at the Lake House is a must. Savour beautiful views and a seasonal menu championing small-scale local suppliers and their own farm just 10 minutes away.
2. Hepburn Springs
Tuck into hearty, farm-fresh flavours. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Taking cues from its Swiss-Italian roots and the area’s produce, the picturesque Lavandula Farm houses a seasonal trattoria, rustic wine bar, and a new deli and larder inside the original Shepherd’s Flat Post Office.
For another dining destination immersed in the area’s history, visit The Hepburn Pavilion café at Hepburn Bathhouse. Brunch, lunch, scones and house-made cakes are served under the vaulted ceiling of this Edwardian heritage-listed building.
And while The Surly Goat may have a farm-like ring to it, it’s in fact a homely restaurant that takes seasonality seriously. Chef David Willcocks heads up an ever-changing set menu celebrating local and small-scale regenerative producers.
3. Trentham
Satisfy your sweet cravings with handcrafted treats. (Image: Sisko Chocolate)
No trip to an Aussie regional town is complete without a stop at the pub. Pig & Whistle Hotel sits surrounded by farmland. Soak it in from the locally beloved beer garden. Here, pub classics include a parmigiana with an Irish twist.
For a more refined experienced, dine at du Fermier, where chef and owner Annie Smithers crafts a weekly menu of French farmhouse-style dishes, often sourcing ingredients from her nearby farm in Lyonville.
And if you have a sweet tooth, don’t leave town without a cheeky stop at Sisko Chocolate Studio, where owner Christina Tantsis has built a chocolate-lovers wonderland inside a stunning architectural space. Her handcrafted creations use couverture from Valrhona, a certified B Corporation, and the hot chocolates are positively sinful.
4. Woodend
Taste incredible Japanese cuisine at Kuzu Izakaya.
Taste local drops in town at the family-owned Woodend Cellar and Bar – complemented by tapas and artisan platters featuring sourdough from the local bakery – or at 600 Above, a wine bar with a sunny courtyard and cosy fireplace serving small and large plates.
Nearby, Kuzu Izakaya is the go-to place for Japanese dining. Chef Eriko Pannam has crafted a moreish menu of creative and traditional dishes; think miso cream scallops and everyone’s favourite, Japanese fried chicken.
Mount Macedon Winery is another must-visit for wine connoisseurs. Enjoy a glass and wood-fired pizza on the deck, or opt for fine dining at their Cellar Door Restaurant.
5. Kyneton
Piper Street in Kyneton is overflowing with top-notch eateries. Take Prato, specialising in traditional Greek dishes and pinsa (a lighter, crispier version of traditional pizza); or the upscale Midnight Starling, where chef Steve Rogers serves French classics inside a historic building with bluestone cellar.
A little further down, The Piper Street Wine Company is a European restaurant and wine bar inside a gorgeous heritage building. Their evolving menu highlights one European country or region at a time, so there’s always something new to discover. Further along, Fook Shing delivers a flavour-packed Southeast Asian menu using local and regional Victorian produce.
6. Castlemaine
Discover rich, creamy cheeses crafted by a certified cow’s milk artisan cheesemaker. (Image: Long Paddock Cheese)
Cafes, bars and restaurants have taken up residence inside this former Gold Rush town’s historic buildings. At The Mill Castlemaine – an 1870s woollen mill turned creative hub – you’ll find Long Paddock Cheese, a small-scale artisan cheesemaker that uses certified-organic cow’s milk from a nearby family-owned farm; and Das Kaffeehaus, a Viennese cafe serving traditional Austrian food with coffee from their small batch roastery.
Meanwhile, inside the Midland Hotel you’ll find the chef-hatted Bar Midland, founded by locals Loudon Cooper and Alexander Marano. Their monthly set menu celebrates Victorian producers who focus on sustainable land management, and often utilises indigenous food, introduced wild animals and weeds.
7. Lancefield & Romsey
Savour beautifully plated dishes in a relaxed setting. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Art meets food and wine at Mount Monument, located just outside of Romsey. The beautiful vineyard is home to a sculpture park, cellar door and restaurant with a menu shaped by the Macedon Ranges’ rich seasonal produce.
In town, The 1860 Romsey has reimagined a 160-year-old hotel. Here, country pub charm meets modern bistro, with a menu that supports local at every opportunity (their Central Victorian Oakdale Black Angus steak is a winner).
A few minutes’ drive north, the Lost Watering Hole in Lancefield is a family-friendly brewery and restaurant crafting 100% naturally brewed beers. Their unusual names – No Dodo, Flightless, Big Roo – make sense once you learn Lancefield is the location of one of the richest deposits of megafauna fossils in Australia.
8. Harcourt
Treat yourself to buttery, house-made Danish pastries. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Harcourt is famous for its apple orchards and cider production, and there’s no better place to visit than The Little Red Apple. At this roadside store, you can stock up on fresh crisp apples, ciders, vinegars, juices, and other gourmet products.
To taste more local delights, pop into the Harcourt Produce & General Store, renowned for their house-made danishes, or stop at Sutton Grange Winery where winemaker Chris Smales crafts wines using their organically grown estate fruit. Open on Sundays, it’s an idyllic spot to slow down over wine, pizzas and share plates.
