Australia’s superstar national parks such as Kakadu, Daintree and Kosciuszko sure soak up the attention, but we reckon these 10 deserves a whole lot more love too.
1.Millstream-Chichester, WA
This Pilbara-based park is the little sister to nearby Karijini National Park. Spring water feeds permanent pools and paperbarks line creeks in defiance of surrounding ochre cliffs and spinifex. The 1920s-Millstream Homestead acts as a visitors’ centre, outlining the area’s activities, and the culture of the Yindjibarndi people (and the ‘Warlu serpent’).
WA’s Millstream-Chichester NP is home to the mythical ‘Warlu serpent’.
2. Mirima, WA
Mirima is a miniature version of the Bungle Bungle Ranges and it’s right on the doorstep (two-kilometres east) of relaxed Kimberley town, Kununurra. ‘Hidden Valley’ offers a selection of walks, from laid-back to sweat-inducing, around the home of the Miriwoong people. There is a flock of choice for bird watchers too, with species such as the white-quilled rock pigeon colonising the sandstone hills. parks.
Views from Mirima National Park in Kununurra, Wester Australia
3. Ku-ring-gai Chase, NSW
Around 20 kilometres from Sydney’s CBD is a surprisingly diverse, 15,000-hectare park. This Mecca of wildlife spotting, rock art and outdoor activities is set in valley after valley of classic Sydney sandstone stretching from the Hawkesbury River to the sea. A great place to start is the Kalkari Discovery Centre with nearby Bobbin Head a tranquil place for a family picnic and a dip.
Morning sunrise, fog was blanketing the park.
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4. Gundabooka, NSW
South of outback icon Bourke, craggy Mount Gundabooka stands half a kilometre above the surrounding plains, overlooking the Darling River. The Mulgowan Aboriginal Art Site walking track takes in rock art (animal motifs and hand stencils) and the hunting tools of the Ngemba and Paakandji peoples. Keep an eye out for pink cockatoos around the woodlands, floodplains and sandhills at Gundabooka.
A stroll through the craggy Gundabooka NP, south of Bourke, NSW (David Finnegan).
5. Coorong, SA
Around two hours’ drive south-east of Adelaide will land you in 130 kilometres of lagoon-scape of Coorong National Park. The wetlands are a fecund breeding ground for pelicans (the film Storm Boy was set here) and an array of other wild birds. Mounds of ancient shells mark the campsites of the Ngarrindjeri people. The park is ripe with walking, four-wheel-driving and kayaking opportunities.
The diverse and sweeping Coorong NP in South Australia.
6. Tasman, Tasmania
Across the bay from the modern history lesson at Port Arthur in Tassie’s south-east, lies the 300-metre columnar dolerite cliffs and isolated beaches of Tasman National Park. The Cape Pillar Walk is the highlight of the sublime coastal walks, a great way to see the majestic cliffs. The northern tip can be explored by car or cruise the coast from Port Arthur, to spot seals, penguins, dolphins and whales.
7. Litchfield, NT
Ticked off Kakadu? Litchfield, only a couple of hours’ drive from Darwin, is accessible most of the year and, unlike Kakadu, you can swim here without the threat of saltwater crocs. The park’s four spectacular waterfalls – Florence, Wango, Tjaynera and Surprise Creek – are full year-round. Magnetic termite mounds, with perfect north-south orientation, are one of many reasons for the trip.
Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT.
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8. Limmen, NT
A national park since 2012, Limmen lies in the heart of the remote tropical savannah, 305 kilometres south-east of Katherine. Its cultural footprint extends from indigenous culture to foreign seafarers, Macassan trepangers, European explorers and pastoral pioneers. The sandstone pillars of the ‘Lost City’ are worth the journey alone. Prepare well before heading this way and avoid the wet season.
9. Lamington, QLD
Flee the bustle and neon of the Gold Coast to this hinterland oasis, situated on a 900-metre high plateau – a pristine World Heritage Area, with Mount Tamborine your ever-present backdrop. Come face-to-face with the dense subtropical rainforest and its birdlife during a canopy stroll around O’Reilly’s Tree Top Walk, up to 30 metres above the forest floor.
Views over Lamington National Park to Hinze Dam in Queensland’s Gold Coast hinterland
10. Great Otway, Great Ocean Road, Victoria
Cruise past all of the Great Ocean Road’s main towns to reach Cape Otway National Park, with its rugged coastline, rock formations, beaches, ferny forests and lakes. It’s easy and rewarding to get off the beaten track here and trek to breathtaking waterfalls such as The Cascades. It’s equally close to the region’s delicious produce nestled in the nearby hinterland towns.
The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.
There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.
Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.
‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.
Exchanging city chaos for country calm
The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)
I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.
I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.
The trails and treasures of the Grampians
Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)
Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.
Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.
Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)
There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.
Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.
“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.
Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)
We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.
Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)
The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.
What else is on offer in The Grampians?
Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)
You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.
And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).
Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)
Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.
The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.
Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)
There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.
The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.
Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.
And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.
Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)
You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.
A traveller’s checklist
Staying there
Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.
