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The best Christmas markets to visit this holiday season

With Christmas around the corner, it’s time to stock up on festive wares and wonders.

The most wonderful time of the year is almost upon us! It’s a time of celebration, of family, of good food and of course, gift giving. And what better place to find the perfect present than at a festive Christmas market? From delicious desserts and local produce to homemade gifts and handcrafted wares, you’re sure to find something to impress. Here’s our guide to the best Christmas markets around the country.

NSW

Twilight Beachside Markets
Avoca Beach
6 December

Avoca Beachside Markets on the Central Coast, NSW
Head to Avoca Beach to browse its Christmas markets.

The Christmas rendition of the Avoca Beachside Markets brings all the festive feels to the Central Coast. Expect a lively collection of stalls showcasing handcrafted gifts, seasonal treats and locally made goodies, perfect for ticking off the last of your holiday shopping.

As the sun dips, the atmosphere gets even more magical with live music, delicious food trucks and plenty of spots to pause and enjoy the night. It’s a relaxed, family-friendly way to welcome the festive season by the water, with a little something for every kind of gift-giver.

Jolly Night Market
Sydney
11–21 December

aerial of Jolly Christmas Markets sydney
Get ready for 11 nights of Christmas joy.

Australia’s biggest Christmas-themed night market is decking the halls of Circular Quay again this year, with over 120 stalls transforming the Sydney precinct into a festive wonderland. Running across 11 days, the Jolly Night Market is one of the best Christmas market activations in the country.

This year, attendees can browse stalls touting everything from unique Christmas decorations and handmade gifts to bespoke homewares and First Nations art. The food and beverage program is nothing to blink at either, with plenty of sweet and savoury treats up for grabs.

Christmas on John Street
Singleton
5 December

Christmas on John Street in Singleton, NSW
John Street in Singleton transforms into a Christmas wonderland each December.

The festive-themed markets are only the beginning of an epic program for Christmas on John Street in Singleton. While there will be plenty of pop-up stalls for visitors to browse and buy from, it’s only a taste of what’s to come throughout the evening.

The annual event is much-loved by townsfolk for its seemingly endless line-up of entertainment, from roving performers and live music to putt-putt golf and circus workshops. Don’t miss the silent disco either, with its soundtrack of seasonal hits.

Makers & Shakers Christmas Gift Market
Sydney
13–14 December

Makers & Shakers Market in Sydney, NSW
Do your Christmas shopping at Sydney’s White Bay Cruise Terminal. (Image: Makers & Shakers Market)

A special Christmas edition of the Makers & Shakers Market will be taking over Sydney’s White Bay Cruise Terminal for one weekend this December. The already-iconic market will transform into a Christmas wonderland, with over 140 stallholders ready to sell you the perfect gift.

Expect the usual line-up of handmade wares – think original artwork, ceramics, prints, plants, jewellery, clothing, accessories, produce, skincare and more. Spend $20 or more and you can have your gifts wrapped for free at the VistaPrint pop-up. Go over $50 and you’ll get a premium gift box.

Berrima Schoolyard Markets
Southern Highlands
14 December

Every year, the monthly Berrima Schoolyard Markets in the Southern Highlands turn its December instalment into a Christmas-themed extravaganza. Over 50 stalls will be selling gifts, wreaths, gourmet foods, homewares and clothing, with a Christmas raffle, kids’ entertainment and a classic sausage sizzle adding to the excitement.

Each market day helps fund excursions throughout the school year, as well as cooking and gardening lessons for the students. So, not only will you be gifting a loved one something special this year, you’ll be giving back to the local community as well.

Martin Place Christmas Markets
Sydney
27 November – 20 December

Martin Place Christmas Markets in Sydney, NSW
Browse market stalls under the Martin Place Christmas Tree. (Image: Destination NSW)

The aptly named Martin Place Christmas Markets are returning for another year of festive fun in the heart of the CBD. Visit creators, makers, artists, producers and other small businesses from across Sydney as they offer up festive goods under the iconic Martin Place Christmas tree.

Alongside the market stalls, attendees can get into the Christmas spirit with hot food trucks, live music and even a visit from Santa. Running for four weeks up until Christmas, the markets will be open every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, plus an additional one-off Sunday during week one.

Vic

CRFT* WRK
Melbourne
6 December

CRFT* WRK in Melbourne, Vic
CRFT* WRK is held at Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market.

If you’re looking to gift a loved one something locally and lovingly made this year, CRFT* WRK is the place to go. Usually a monthly contemporary art fair held at Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market, CRFT* WRK will be dedicated to all things Christmas this December.

Browse stalls touting art, ceramics, jewellery, embroidery, textiles, homewares, perfume and more – all handmade by some of Melbourne’s most creative crafters. Held in Shed D, the event runs from 9am to 4pm and is the last CRFT* WRK of 2025.

Piccadilly Christmas Market
Geelong
14 December

Piccadilly Christmas Market in Geelong, Vic
Pick up stunning handmade jewellery at the Piccadilly Christmas Market.

Go full festive mode at the Piccadilly Christmas Market this December, running from 10am to 3pm on Geelong’s stunning waterfront. There’ll be more than 100 artisan stalls tucked inside the Deakin Campus venue, perfect for shopping rain, hail or shine.

Refuel with treats from food trucks as you browse or visit the onsite cafe for a cuppa, while local artists play merry tunes to ramp up the festive cheer. It’s free to get in and there’s plenty of parking, so you can shop stress-free and soak up that holiday-season magic.

Good Food & Wine Show Christmas Market
Melbourne
6–8 December

Good Food & Wine Christmas Market in Melbourne, Vic
Purchase an artisanal wreath to decorate your front door.

Held at the Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre across the first weekend of December, the Good Food & Wine Show Christmas Market will feature more than 150 local producers. Visitors can look forward to an unmatched selection of handcrafted gifts and artisanal goods, plus everything else the expo has to offer.

Its also a prime opportunity to discover all the culinary inspiration you’ll need to wow your guests come Christmas Day. Celebrity chefs like Emelia Jackson, Kirsten Tibballs and Valerie Henbest will be doing live cooking demos, sharing their top tips to rival any and all Christmas Day feasts.

Twilight Christmas Market
Ballarat
19 December

Ballarat Christmas Market in Ballarat, Vic
Sample a delicious range of festive treats at the Ballarat Christmas Market.

Ballarat Markets will once again host its annual Twilight Christmas Market on Zoo Drive along Lake Wendouree this month. Last year, the community event welcomed more than 240 stalls and you can expect even more this year, so have your wrapping paper at the ready.

As well as a marketplace boasting everything from handcrafted wares to holiday treats, attendees can also sample a range of local wine, cider, gin and beer. Hot food trucks and barista-made coffee stands will keep keen shoppers fuelled, too.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

East Ivanhoe Christmas Fair
Melbourne
13 December

The East Ivanhoe Christmas Fair along Lower Heidelberg Road in Melbourne is the place to be come 13 December. The seasonal market, run by Craft Markets Australia, brings together a vibrant mix of local makers, growers and artisans – all in a charming community setting.

Expect a variety of handmade gifts, one-of-a-kind wares and Christmas-themed creations, plus the chance to chat directly with the creatives behind them. It’s a warm, welcoming way to soak up local talent and wrap up your Christmas shopping in style.

Qld

BrisStyle Twilight Market
Brisbane
19 December

BrisStyle Christmas Markets in Brisbane, Qld
The BrisStyle Markets unfold in the heart of the Queensland capital. (Image: Rachel Kimberley)

The BrisStyle Twilight Market is one of the Queensland capital’s best markets, featuring 100 per cent local, handmade goods that are as delightful as they are sustainable. However, come December, the much-loved market turns into a Christmas extravaganza under the twinkling lights of the Brisbane Christmas Tree.

Head to King George Square to peruse stalls selling everything from ceramics and embroidery to jewellery and all-natural skincare, before grabbing a snack from the food truck and enjoying live music. It’s a great opportunity to support local businesses – and get some Chrissie shopping done, too!

Christmas Twilight Market
Gold Coast
20 December

HOTA Christmas Markets on the Gold Coast, Qld
Little ones will love the HOTA Market’s range of festive toys.

Head to the Gold Coast’s HOTA (Home of the Arts) this December for its iconic Christmas Twilight Market. Browse and buy artisanal handmade gifts, devour gourmet eats and treats, spot roving performers, snap a selfie with Santa and enjoy joyous live music.

Hosted at one of the best art galleries on the Gold Coast, it’s a great opportunity to see what the rest of HOTA has on offer. From immersive exhibitions and intimate panel talks to comedy shows and hands-on workshops, you’ll have plenty of things to fill your summer calendar with.

QAGOMA Christmas Design Market
Brisbane
29–30 November

QAGOMA Christmas Design Market in Brisbane, Qld
Meet local artists at the QAGOMA Christmas Design Market.

Make it a handmade Christmas to remember with unique gifts from the QAGOMA Christmas Design Market in Brisbane. With more than 80 independent local artisans across the weekend, you’re sure to find something for everyone on your Christmas list – with a wide range of ceramics, jewellery, homewares, clothing, stationery and more.

The market will run at one of Queensland’s coolest art spaces, the Gallery of Modern Art, from 9am to 4pm both days. Plus, the first 100 visitors each day will receive a free sample bag of goodies from QAGOMA’s gift shop, so be sure to get in early!

Jingle All The Bay
Brisbane
29 November

Just north of the city in the Brisbane suburb of Sandgate, Jingle All The Bay is sure to light up your holiday season. The Sandgate Bayside Chamber of Commerce turns the town into a free, family-friendly Christmas extravaganza for one day only.

Expect loads of market stalls perfect for hunting down holiday gifts, as well as food trucks and local restaurants keeping your festive cravings satisfied. As night falls, the main street comes alive with live music and dance performances, while amusement rides and a Christmas Street Parade showcase the community’s spirit.

Tas

Salamanca Market
Hobart
20 December

Salamanca Market in Hobart, Tas
Discover over 300 stalls at Hobart’s Salamanca Market. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Over 300 stalls make up the Salamanca Market in Hobart, which runs weekly along the city’s stunning waterfront. And like most recurring markets, it’s turning these stalls into gift goldmines come December – because is there anything better than finding something special for a loved one?

You’ll be able to find something for even your most picky family member, with books, candles, spirits, tools, art, jewellery, plants, and fashion barely scratching the surface. Attendees can also look forward to local buskers banging out festive favourites and food stalls showcasing some of Tassie’s best produce.

The Artisan’s Hand Christmas Market
Cygnet
29 November

Christmas markets
Pick up adorable handcrafted Christmas decorations. (Image: Getty/Marko Stojkovic)

Wander through the beautifully historic Balfour House for The Artisan’s Hand Christmas Market, held in the cosy Tassie town of Cygnet each December. It’s the epitome of regional romance, as you can meet the friendly creatives behind every handmade gift you purchase, from ceramics and woodwork to textiles and art prints.

The Artisan’s Hand has also built quite a reputation for its mouthwatering Christmas puddings, which you can snag on the day. Forget the store-bought stuff – these delicious beauties are lovingly hand-baked by locals and guaranteed to have the whole family coming back for seconds.

Christmas Festival
Hobart
6–7 December

Christmas cake
Snag home-baked sweets perfect for Christmas Day dessert. (Image: Getty/Mini Series)

Hosted by Tasmanian Made Markets, the Christmas Festival at Hobart’s Princes Wharf No. 1 unfolds over the first weekend of December. It’s a merry celebration of Tassie’s distinct creativity, with dozens of local artisans showcasing handmade gifts, festive decor and holiday treats.

Beyond the shopping, there’s delicious food to satisfy all your seasonal cravings, plus live entertainment and a family-friendly atmosphere. It’s the ultimate place to soak up waterfront views while ticking off your Christmas list and supporting local makers.

Christmas Market
Ulverstone
7 December

Just over an hour’s drive from Launceston, the beachside town of Ulverstone is nestled between Penguin and Davenport in Tassie’s wild north-west. It’s perfectly positioned to put on a Christmas Market that the whole region can reach, generously hosted by the local rowing club.

Like many of Tassie’s top markets, this one is all about supporting the community. Over 40 stalls run by local businesses will pitch their gazebos, touting handmade wares for your perusal (and purchasing) pleasure. Don’t worry, delicious food and stands will keep you fuelled while you shop, too.

WA

Bazaar Makers Market
Fremantle
5–7 December

Bazaar Makers Market in Fremantle, WA
The Bazaar Makers Market is hosted by the Walyalup Fremantle Arts Centre.

Walyalup Fremantle Arts Centre’s annual Bazaar Makers Market is the place to be when the silly season rolls around. Bazaar celebrates all things handmade, quality and local, showcasing the work of over 50 makers and platforming First Nations creators.

Wander WA-designed and inspired stalls, where you’ll find jewellery and accessories, clothing and textiles, ceramics and prints. Stick around on 5 December for the launch of Rivers Flow: Reflections on the Songs of Archie Roach and Ruby Hunter, a tribute to two of Australia’s most beloved artists.

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Perth Hills Artisan Market
Perth Hills
13–14 December

Perth Hills Artisan Markets in WA
Tick off some last-minute Christmas shopping at the Perth Hills Artisan Markets. (Image: Sophie Hirt Photography)

The excitement of Christmas has inspired the Perth Hills Artisan Market to dedicate two whole days to a Christmas-themed celebration. The region’s biggest indoor artisan market, there’s no better place to grab some personalised gifts that your family will love this year.

Creators from across the Perth Hills will converge during the weekend, from woodworkers and potters to jewellers and painters. You’ll be treated to stalls upon stalls of local art, food, wine, clothing, toys and accessories – plus more! held at Mundaring Arena, the markets will run from 9.30am to 3pm both days.

Town Beach Christmas Party
Broome
7 December

The coastal town of Broome loves Christmas so much, it hosts a party just to celebrate its arrival. The free Town Beach Christmas Party calls on locals and visitors alike to get involved as it unfolds along the beachfront from 4:30pm.

Soak up the community atmosphere as you wander market stalls, making your lists and checking them twice for good measure. Then say hello to Santa before grabbing a bite to eat and settling down for carols by candlelight as the sun sets. It’s Christmas markets, Broome-style.

SA

Ebenezer Night Markets
Adelaide
22 November – 20 December

Ebenezer Night Markets in Adelaide, WA
The markets can be found down one of Adelaide’s coolest alleyways.

Held amongst one of Adelaide’s most charming laneways, the Ebenezer Night Markets near Rundle Street buzz with creativity and colour. While the event runs over 10 nights throughout the summer, its December instalments are perfect for Christmas shopping.

It’s a go-to for discovering handmade treasures and local design, all set against a cosy, character-filled laneway backdrop. And with the aid of twinkling outdoor lights, open-air dining spaces and smooth live tunes, it may just be one of Adelaide’s best markets.

Beach Christmas Market
Glenelg
21 December

Glenelg Sunset Markets in Adelaide, SA
Spend a summer’s evening this Christmas season at Glenelg Sunset Markets.

Spend a gorgeous summer’s evening along the waterfront at the Glenelg Sunset Markets’ Christmas rendition this month. With over 100 locally run stalls, you’ll have stoked your bags with thoughtful gifts for family and friends before the sun dips below the horizon.

The market stalls will be accompanied by live music and food trucks, plus your furry friends are welcome, too! When you’re finished, pop across to one of Adelaide’s best beaches for a stroll along the Glenelg Pier or a refreshing swim in the sea.

Handmade Christmas Market
Adelaide Hills
20 December

Handmade Christmas Market in Adelaide Hills, SA
The Fabrik Handmade Christmas Market is the perfect day out with family.

Head up to the beautiful former Onkaparinga Woollen Mill in the Adelaide Hills a few days before Christmas and you’ll be rewarded with the Handmade Christmas Market by Fabrik Arts & Heritage. The marketplace really embraces the festive cheer, with plenty of stalls run by local artists and designers, plus free workshops for all.

The market is part of Lights of Lobethal, a volunteer-run festival that champions the creation of happy memories and spreading merry joy. Experience the magic of Christmas by immersing yourself in everything from light installations and carol sing-alongs to nativity plays and the annual pageant.

NT

Christmas in the Arcade
Darwin
7 December

Christmas markets
Stalls will be touting everything from Christmas decorations to unique gifts. (Image: Getty/Ludmila Talmazan)

Darwin’s Air Raid Arcade will transform into a magical marketplace this December for Christmas in the Arcade, a one-day event designed for those seeking something special to gift come Chrissie Day. Local makers, artists and creatives unite under one roof, making it the perfect spot to pick up unique handmade finds.

As you explore, you’ll be surrounded by the soft glow of the arcade lights and a laid-back, tropical atmosphere. It’s all about supporting Territorian creativity while soaking up that warm, community-led holiday spirit, a sweet way to shop small and celebrate big in Darwin.

Todd Mall Markets
Alice Springs
7 December

Christmas decorations
You’ll find so many adorable arts and crafts at Todd Mall Markets. (Image: Getty/Beo88)

When December rolls around, the Todd Mall Markets in Alice Springs gets a festive makeover for its Christmas-themed Sunday market. It’s the same not-for-profit, community-run event that runs March through December, but sprinkled generously with holiday spirit.

Stalls brim with handmade treasures – think authentic First Nations artwork, handcrafted jewellery, sustainable fashion and local produce. Todd Mall is in the heart of town, so why not go for a wander afterwards? There are so many brilliant things to see and do – it makes for the perfect day out in Alice.

ACT

Haig Park Village Markets
Canberra
7–21 December

Haig Park Christmas Markets in Canberra, ACT
Don’t miss the chance to get a photo with Santa at Haig Park Village Markets. (Image: Snaps by Sal)

Tucked into the leafy greenery of Haig Park in Braddon, the Village Markets transform into a Christmas wonderland for three Sundays in December – the 7th, 14th and 21st – and the festive feels are real. Expect over 100 stalls each week, brimming with artisan wreaths, scented candles, homemade Christmas cakes, and sustainable gifts.

There’s a full line-up of holiday fun, too. Think free photos with Santa, carols and Christmas-themed activities for kids, from festive crafts to face-painting. With free entry and a warm community vibe, it’s the perfect way to spend your Sunday mornings in December.

Homestead Christmas Market
Canberra
13 December

Step into heritage charm at the Homestead Christmas Market, happening on the second weekend of December at Tuggeranong Homestead. The festive market turns these historic grounds into one of the best Christmas shopping spots in the nation’s capital.

Expect a lovely mix of handmade treasures, from local arts and crafts to farm-fresh produce like honey and jam. Sunshine, live music and food trucks serving seasonal bites make for the perfect day out with family.

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Taylah Darnell
Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to check out places like Scotland and North America, her favourite place to explore will always be her homeland.
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Inside Geelong’s glow-up from factory town to creative capital

    Chloe Cann Chloe Cann
    Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated. 

    Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.  

    Geelong cellar door wine bar
    Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

    Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct 

    Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.  

    Paddock Bakery andPatisserie
    Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    At Paddock, one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand. 

    Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design 

    Paddock Bakery
    Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    “A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.  

    And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

    Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.  

    As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.  

    The rise of a food and wine destination  

    boiler house
    Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

    Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco. 

    Woolstore
    The Woolstore is a new restaurant and bar housed within a century-old warehouse. (Image: Amy Carlon)

     The Woolstore, one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.  

    Woolstore menu
    Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

    Breathing new life into historic spaces  

    On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.  

    “We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.” 

    Provenance Wines
    Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

    The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

    While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.  

    handcrafted pieces
    Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

    The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”  

    A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”  

    Elizabeth Bell
    Ceramicist Elizabeth Bell has a store in Fyansford Paper Mill.