Cocos Islands, Going Coco- Reader Story

AT reader Blake Roet unwinds on the Indian Ocean island paradise that still calls Australia home.

It was time to escape the pressures of city life, recharge my batteries and fill my lungs with sea and scuba air. After hearing exciting stories from fellow travellers about the Cocos (Keeling) Islands I decided it was time for me to experience them first hand.

Referred to by the locals as Cocos, the islands are located in the Indian Ocean, 2950km north-west of Perth and 3700km west of Darwin. The 27 islands in the group include the southern atoll islands, which surround a beautiful blue lagoon, and the uninhabited North Keeling Island, which is protected within the Pulu Keeling National Park.

The islands were owned by the Clunies-Ross family until 1978, when they were acquired by the Australian Government, which had administered them as an Australian Territory since 1955. The small population of around 600 people resides on two of the southern atoll islands. The largely Muslim Cocos Malay population, which were originally brought to the islands from Malaysia to work on coconut plantations, reside on Home Island where they live a traditional Malay life in kampungs. The Government administration, airport, commercial activity and tourist facilities are located on West Island.

Other atolls surrounding the lagoon include stunning Direction Island, which is a favourite destination for daytrippers and campers from West Island, and a number of smaller islands where the Cocos Malays maintain weekend shacks for fishing and relaxing.

North Keeling Island has great diving, is a popular spot for birdwatchers and is the location of the wreck of German naval raider SMS Emden which was destroyed and then beached in 1914 after attempting to attack the communications facility then operating on Direction Island.

The beaches on West Island are amazing. These include Trannies beach (for readers who are family-conscious please note this beach was named after a nearby communication transmission facility) at the northern end and Scout Park beach and the nearby Yacht Club beach at the southern end.

Across the lagoon by boat you’ll find a beautiful beach on Direction Island (not camping here for a night is my only regret). The lagoon offers terrific snorkeling including the waters between Scout Park and the small island of Pulu Maraya, where juvenile but harmless black-tip reef sharks cruise the channel in knee-deep water.

The diving around Cocos is world class with healthy reefs inside and outside the lagoon and an abundance of reef fish, large pelagic fish, turtles, reef sharks and the occasional tiger shark. However, the attraction that sets Cocos apart from other dive destinations is its resident lone dugong named Kat.

I dived with Cocos Dive, which is operated by Dieter Gerhard and his partner, underwater photographer Karen Willshaw, who have developed a special relationship with Kat. Upon the boat’s arrival at the dive site Kat comes out of the blue to the boat and rubs herself along the anchor line to invite divers into the water.

The islands also attract kite surfers and windsurfers from around the world, especially to Yacht Club Beach. There are good surf breaks on the ocean side of West island, too, with basic surf camps located along the shore

There are, of course, sacrifices to be made when travelling to such a small, exotic and isolated location. Inevitably, food, entertainment and accommodation options are limited, but in my experience you can not have all these and still expect a unique experience such as I had on these islands.

Cocos is not a party location. There’s only one bar on West Island: the Cocos Club. On certain Friday nights men also gather at an isolated beach location on West Island, where they discuss secret men’s business, enjoy a few cold beverages then relieve themselves in a unique bush toilet (see opposite).

Travelling to Cocos is demanding and expensive. I flew from Melbourne to Perth, then flew to Cocos the next morning, but this is definitely worth the effort.

Find out more about this intriguing destination in the Australian Indian Ocean Territories:

Cocos-tourism

Aussies might think they know what Port Stephens is all about – but it’s time to take another look.

You might’ve driven through this NSW coast town. Maybe even stopped for fish and chips or a quick dip. But spend a long weekend in the new Port Stephens , and you’ll seriously regret not doing it sooner. We’re talking treks across beaches, reef dives and up-close time with rescued koalas.

All in all? It only takes a day before you see Port Stephens in a whole new light, and not much longer until it’s locked in as your favourite family destination.

1. Stockton Sand Dunes

Port Stephens incredible Stockton Sand Dunes are the largest moving sand mass in the Southern Hemisphere. They shift like an endless magic trick across the Worimi Conservation Lands , a 4200-hectare coastal co-managed by the Traditional Owners.

Tear over them in a 4WD. Rev through valleys soft as melting ice cream on a quad. Carve down 30-metre slopes on a sandboard. However you choose to cross them, you’re guaranteed a seriously wild ride.

Four rugged 4WDs kick up trails of golden dust as they charge across the sweeping desert landscape. — Chase thrills across shifting sands. (Image: Destination NSW)

2. Scale Tomaree Head Summit Walk

A short climb through bushland opens up to the coastal drama of Tomaree Head . Spot Zenith, Wreck and Box Beaches. See the Fingal Island lighthouse and offshore rookeries where Australia’s rarest seabird, the Gould’s petrel, nests.

History buffs can’t miss the WWII gun emplacements. And if you’re hiking between May and November, bring binoculars. Travelling whales might just be breaching below.

Friends enjoying a scenic walk along the Tomaree Head Summit Walk in Tomaree National Park, Port Stephens. — Climb Tomaree Head for jaw-dropping coastal views. (Image: Destination NSW)

3. Watch out for whales

You’ve seen the spouts of migrating humpbacks and southern right whales from shore. Set sail from Nelson Bay to see them up close. Cruise straight into the action, with tail-slaps, barrel rolls and all.

And they’ve got competition from the local show-offs. Port Stephens bottlenose dolphins leap and play. Some tours even spot pudgy fur seals, spending lazy days soaking up the sun on Cabbage Tree Island.

A whale’s tail on the sea’s surface. — Watch for ocean tails. (Image: Destination NSW)

4. Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary

Pop into the Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary to learn about the rescued koalas who climb, nap, snack and heal in this natural patch of bushland. Wander the immersive Sanctuary Story Walk to discover more about their habits, then head to the SKYwalk – a treetop platform constructed for spotting these eucalyptus-loving locals. Peek into the hospital’s viewing window, where sick or injured koalas may be resting in their recovery enclosures.

Not enough time around these adorable marsupials? Stay overnight in silk-lined glamping tents.

Koala sleeping in a tree at Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary, One Mile — See koalas in their natural habitat. (Image: Destination NSW)

5. Diving Port Stephens

Port Stephens has some of NSW’s best dive spots. At Fly Point, float through sponge gardens and coral castles thick with nudibranchs (AKA sea slugs). Halifax Park has blue gropers and crimson-banded wrasse, while Shoal Bay’s seagrass meadows hide pipefish, cuttlefish and octopus.

Accessible only by boat, Broughton Island is home to a vast array of marine (and bird) life. Snorkel with blue devilfish and stingrays at sites like The Looking Glass and North Rock. More experienced divers can head out with one of the many PADI-certified operators.

At nearby Cabbage Tree Island, expect to see shaggy-faced wobbegongs cruising along.

A couple suited up and ready to dive into adventure. — Suit up and dive into Port Stephens’ vibrant marine life. (Image: Destination NSW)

6. Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters

Not quite ready to dive in? Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters is the perfect way to spot local marine life without getting too deep. But there’s no obnoxious glass tank tapping here. Instead, this interactive aquarium allows guests to wade into natural-style lagoons that mimic the real thing.

Gently pat Port Jackson and bamboo sharks, hand-feed rays, and feel their sandpapery skin with your fingertips. It is all under expert guidance. If you want to go deeper, pop on a wetsuit and swim alongside tawny nurse sharks, white-tipped reef sharks and zebra sharks in the lagoon.

Family enjoying an animal feeding experience at Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters, Anna Bay. — Meet the ocean’s friendliest faces at Irukandji. (Image: Destination NSW)

7. Fish the estuaries

Fishing fanatics will fall for Port Stephens hook, line and sinker. Here, one of the largest estuary systems in the whole state sees tidal rivers and mangrove ecosystems. Waterfronts are thick with oysters, and residential fish that might include anything from bream, whiting and flathead, to blue swimmer crabs, kingfish and longtail tuna.

If you prefer to choose your own adventure and fish offshore, you can hire a boat from one of the marinas and set your own course.

three men fishing on a boat in port stephens — Join a tour or chart your own fishing trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

8. Taste new Port Stephens flavours

With plenty of activity to fill your days, refuelling on delectable cuisine becomes equally important. And Port Stephens answers the call.

Pop into Holbert’s Oyster Farm for fresh-farmed Port Stephens rock oysters and Pacific oysters, Australian king and tiger prawns, as well as a variety of tasty sauces to try them with.

Take a group to Atmos for an authentic Greek experience over large shared dishes and Greek-inspired cocktails. Or feast on sea-to-plate, modern Australian dishes at the pet-friendly Restaurant 2317.

A plate of fresh oysters. — Slurp your way through the region’s best oysters. (Image: Destination NSW)

Start planning your Port Stephens getaway at portstephens.org.au .

Cocos Islands, Going Coco – Reader Story

AT reader Blake Roet unwinds on the Indian Ocean island paradise that still calls Australia home.

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