If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Why Hamilton Island is perfect for multi-gen travel

Consider this your cheat sheet to holidaying on Hamilton Island with the clan.

Keeping everyone in your crew happy on holidays is no small feat. Yet ask any parent who’s been and they’ll unanimously agree Hamilton Island multi-gen travel overdelivers – for many reasons.

Taking the family to this premier island destination is a rite of passage for many Aussie parents. Not only is Hamo stuffed to the brim with fun activities to suit all ages, but it’s accessible, safe and super easy to get around thanks to its relatively small size. And I suppose the fact that it’s undeniably stunning doesn’t hurt either.

Whether you’re spending time together creating magical memories or relaxing while giving the young ones some kids’ club time, this guide breaks down everything there is to know about holidaying on Hamilton Island for families.

Getting there, and around

Hamilton Island multi-gen travel on a buggy
Hire a buggy and explore at your own pace.

The easiest and most fuss-free way to get to Hamilton Island is to fly to Great Barrier Reef Airport, located on the island. Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar offer short, direct flights from most major Australian cities, including Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne and Cairns. Alternatively, fly to Whitsunday Coast Airport (PPP) near Airlie Beach, then take a ferry from Shute Harbour with Cruise Whitsundays, which operates services daily.

Once you’re here, rental buggies make it easy to zip around from A to B (not to mention being a fun activity in themselves – the kids will love it).

Where to stay

Reef View Hotel Pool Terrace hamilton island multi-gen travel
Reef View Hotel offers pool and sea. (Credit: Kara Rosenlund)

Part of what makes Hamilton Island so appealing is its diverse range of family-friendly accommodation. Many include return airport or marina shuttles, along with complimentary use of non-motorised watersports equipment – making it easy to relax as soon as you step foot on the island.

Reef View Hotel is one of the most popular picks due to its spacious suites perfect for larger families and proximity to the island’s resort centre – a happening hub of restaurants, pools and water activities.

Meanwhile, families looking for something more self-contained can check into Palm Bungalows. Each modern bungalow is enveloped by lush tropical gardens and offers a kitchenette, bar fridge, microwave and coffee facilities – plus a private balcony for card games and evening drinks.

pool and sup boarders at The Sundays hamilton island
Take in pool and sea at The Sundays.

The Sundays is another fantastic option for families. The newest hotel on Hamilton Island, it has serious bragging rights thanks to its coastal chic design and stellar location at the end of Catseye Beach. Opt for one of the Family Connect Rooms for extra breathing room.

For that relaxed, home-away-from-home feeling, Hamilton Island Holiday Homes hit the nail on the head. Choose from more than 100 self-catering homes dotted around the island that accommodate both large groups and smaller families. From waterfront luxury to spacious villas, there’s something for everyone.

Family tip: Reef View Hotel, Palm Bungalows and The Sundays all participate in Hamilton Island’s Kids Stay Free program, earning themselves a reputation as some of the best family-friendly accommodation on Hamilton Island. No extra charge is added for up to one or two (dependent on the hotel) children under 12 who are sharing a room with parents and using existing bedding.

Where to eat

coca chu on hamilton island
Sit down to a feast at coca chu.

Hamilton Island’s foodie scene is seriously worth its salt. From just-caught seafood to family-friendly staples, even the fussiest of eaters will be satisfied.

Start at coca chu, one of the best Hamilton Island restaurants for families. Spotlighting vibrant Southeast Asian flavours, it offers a lively, high-ceiling setting overlooking Catseye Beach. Nearby is Catseye Pool Club, Josh and Julie Niland’s breezy coastal venue that’s at once elevated and laidback. Dishing up the likes of charcoal tiger prawns with lemongrass marinade and Greek-style lamb shoulder, it’s the perfect place to celebrate birthdays or milestone moments with older kids.

Got young ones who recoil at the sight of vegetables? Not to worry. Head straight to Romano’s for please-all pizza, or Marina Tavern for hearty pub classics in a relaxed atmosphere complete with an outdoor deck.

Catseye Pool Club hamilton island
Grab some tasty bites by the pool at Catseye Pool Club.

For brekkie or lunch, Bob’s Bakery is a family favourite for affordable pastries, sandwiches and pies, while Marina Cafe serves up bacon and egg rolls and salads with fresh smoothies. And Popeye’s does a mean fish and chips to go.

Sails Restaurant is the place to be for poolside bites with views of the Whitsundays’ famous turquoise waters. The kids can splash in the pool while parents sip spritzes and graze on mezze plates of za’atar pita, hummus and olives. The menu leans Mediterranean and Middle Eastern, though you’ll also find plenty of kid-friendly crowd favourites such as ham and cheese toasties. For something extra special, book in the Piper Package – expect exclusive access to a king-size sunbed with a shaded umbrella, plus a chilled bottle of Piper-Heidsieck NV Champagne and a showstopping seafood platter (I still have dreams about it).

Where to explore

hamilton island couple running on trail
Explore the island’s walking trails.

There are bucket loads of family-friendly activities on Hamilton Island that the whole clan can do together. First stop: hiring a buggy and taking your time to explore the island at your own pace. Next stop: getting active and creating memories together in the process.

One of the best activities on Hamilton Island for families is tackling one (or more) of its beautiful bush and walking trails, with the one-hour hike to Passage Peak a standout for panoramic views of the surrounding islands. Morning is a great time to go to beat the heat (and other walkers).

For the active and adventurous, the all-new E-mountain biking facilities make for an adrenaline-packed experience your teens won’t be able to stop talking about. It’s a self-guided trail taking riders to some of the island’s quietest and most scenic pockets, and the knowledgeable staff at Hamilton Island Trails HQ will fit you out with all the gear you need for a safe adventure.

E-mountain biking on hamilton island
Check out the all-new E-mountain biking facilities.

Come sunset, you’d be silly not to head up to One Tree Hill at least once during your stay. Offering breathtaking 360-degree views as the sun brushes the horizon with gold, it’s a popular place for groups and families to come together and enjoy a drink from the pop-up cocktail van.

Family tip: If you’re staying at the Sundays, Reef View Hotel, Palm Bungalows or Hamilton Island Holiday Homes, you’ll enjoy complimentary access to a range of water activities, including catamarans, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and snorkel equipment at Catseye Beach. Keep an eye out for the turtles that love to hang around the shallow fringing reef.

Where to play

heart reef
Take the family on a day tour to places like Heart Reef.

Kids are sure to have a field trip thanks to the island’s abundance of child-centric offerings.

Parents in need of some ‘me time’ can drop little ones between six months and 12 years off at the Clownfish Club, located near the Resort Centre and Pool. Overseen by trained professionals, the nursery offers a calm space for toddlers and babies with a balance of gentle play and rest. Meanwhile, older kids can unleash their imaginations with age-appropriate craft, games and group activities.

Parents seeking a stress-free night out can also make use of Hamilton Island’s babysitting services, which start from $40 an hour.

Hamilton Island Wildlife is another must-visit stop. Fun for children of all ages (and adults too!), the centre provides up-close encounters with a variety of cute and fascinating Aussie animals. Think marsupials, snakes, lizards, koalas and kangaroos, along with a giant saltwater crocodile. Catch the 10am or 2pm daily tours (included with entry) guided by expert keepers, or opt for a 30-minute private or small-group VIP encounter with an animal of your choice.

More kid-friendly entertainment awaits at Palm Valley Activities, where you can race around the go-karting track and reach up to 45 kilometres per hour. Kids under 16 can ride as passengers in double go-karts. Or perhaps try your hand at mini golf at the HI Fitness Club, navigating palms, playful challenges and pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens.

Keen to explore further afield? A wide range of Hamilton Island day trips promise endless excitement, from snorkelling on a Great Barrier Reef tour and chartering a boat to marvelling at the swirling sands of Whitehaven Beach from a scenic plane.

To plan your family island escape, visit hamiltonisland.com.au.