If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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8 experiences that prove The Bellarine is the ultimate multi-gen getaway

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    No matter your age and no matter your interests, Victoria’s coastal Bellarine region makes for a memorable getaway for the whole family.

    Curving into Port Phillip Bay and extending south from Geelong, The Bellarine is a gorgeous coast-meets-country destination. It’s a captivating mix of beachside towns, rolling farms and vineyards, effortlessly cool eating and drinking spots and coastal vistas that seem to stretch beyond the horizon.

    Among its many highlights is a plethora of family-friendly activities to suit all ages and all interests. Here’s your guide to the ultimate Bellarine getaway guaranteed to keep every generation happy.

    1. Tuckerberry Hill Farm

    Tuckerberry Hill Farm
    Pick your own fruit at Tuckerberry Hill Farm.

    There may be no better way to spend an early morning than by foraging and feasting on your own bounty of berries. At Tuckerberry Hill Farm, you can pick blueberries, strawberries and stone fruit from November through March. Take them home or enjoy on the farm’s sun-dappled grounds.

    Tuckerberry also has a regular market selling farm-fresh produce, plus an inviting on-site cafe doing light lunches, drinks, home-baked treats and condiments – many of which incorporate the farm’s own harvest.

    2. The Oxley Estate

    The Oxley Estate
    Wake up to the neighbours.

    A memorable holiday starts with a memorable place to stay, and The Oxley Estate delivers. Situated in the relaxed coastal town of Portarlington, the sprawling site offers thoughtfully styled rooms and activities that’ll keep both parents and kids entertained.

    Wander the fragrant rose gardens, olive grove and fruit-laden orchards. Meet the resident alpacas, donkeys, goats, sheep, chickens and ducks. Challenge your crew to a round of giant chess or mini golf. Or cool off in the shimmering saltwater pool after a busy day of exploring.

    Different room types cater to different groups, with the largest able to comfortably sleep eight.

    3. Oneday Estate

    Oneday Estate
    Taste small batch wines at Oneday Estate.

    Oneday Estate is a must-visit, featuring a restaurant, winery and bar. The winery lets you try small-batch, estate-grown shiraz, pinot noir and riesling. It’s also a vibrant and character-filled Sunday lunch spot in an eclectic stone-and-timber hall crafted from recycled materials and 100-year-old relics repurposed from the surrounding region.

    The on-site eatery and bar hosts weekly Sunday Sessions accompanied by tunes from local musicians, a buzzy atmosphere and flavour-packed food and drink. Order a round of delicious woodfired pizzas with toppings to suit all tastes, alongside a glass of Oneday’s signature wine.

    4. BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon

    BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon
    Kids will love BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon.

    BIG4 holiday parks are renowned for their all-ages appeal, and BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon in the coastal enclave of Queenscliff is no different. The pool and gym are a given, but there’s also a playground, pickleball and basketball courts, a jumbo-sized jump pad, an interactive games arena and an indoor games room equipped with toys, activities and entertainment.

    The diverse range of accommodation spans compact studios designed for three guests, all the way up to expansive beach houses accommodating up to 10, providing comfort and flexibility to suit every size of family.

    5. Bellarine Railway

    Bellarine Railway
    Take a journey aboard the Bellarine Railway.

    If your entourage includes any locomotive enthusiasts, book a journey aboard the Bellarine Railway. The more than 100-year-old steam train transports you to a bygone era and takes you through the rolling farmland and windswept coastal landscapes that make The Bellarine so beautiful.

    The Swan Bay Express is an easy 45-minute ride perfect for younger passengers (and even allows dogs on board), or you could opt for a themed trip. There are seasonal events like the Polar Express (a festive favourite in the lead-up to Christmas), along with the Blues Train (a high-energy experience of live music and dancing) and The Q Train (a roving fine-dining feast celebrating regional produce).

    6. The Dunes

    waiter holding desserts at The Dunes, the bellarine
    Save room for dessert. (Image: Visit Vic)

    The Dunes offers the perfect balance of polished and playful, a breezy beachside bar and restaurant that appeals to adults and kids alike.

    Feast on moreish snacks, share plates and mains from the Italian-inspired menu, or a selection of San Marzano-topped pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven. Pair your meal with a classic cocktail, an ice-cold beer or a glass from the generous drinks menu, which brims with local drops. Little ones are well catered for with a line-up of kid-approved meals for breakfast and lunch.

    If you’re simply swinging by en route to the family-friendly beach, grab a bite at The Dunes’ beachside kiosk before strolling down for a paddle or surf.

    7. Sea All Dolphin Swims

    dolphins playing in The Bellarine
    Spot the locals with Sea All Dolphin Swims. (Image: Visit Vic)

    The sparkling waters around The Bellarine are home to dolphins, fur seals, plus a flurry of seabirds. Sea All Dolphin Swims lets you see some of these magnificent animals up close aboard one of their small-group vessels.

    Head out on a sightseeing tour and spot local wildlife darting around the boat, or dive right in with a swim adventure tour. You’ll be swimming alongside dolphins and seals in their natural habitat – a bucket-list experience you won’t forget fast.

    Swimming and snorkelling gear is provided, and guides are trained to ensure a gentle, eco-friendly encounter for both swimmers and sea creatures.

     8. Jack Rabbit

    aerial of jack rabbit winery and vineyard
    Everyone has a menu to enjoy at Jack Rabbit. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Jack Rabbit is a one-stop dining destination, with a casual cafe and refined restaurant in one place.

    If your mood leans laid-back, the House of Jack Rabbit is a lovely spot for brunch, lunch or dinner. The cafe serves a produce-driven all-day menu filled with seasonal mains, generous sharing platters and a playful kids menu to suit even the pickiest of eaters.

    If you’re after something more elevated, Jack Rabbit Restaurant does plates that change with the seasons and incorporate plenty of local produce. Even younger guests are well catered to, with a considered yet familiar kids’ menu that’s just as vibrant as the grown-up one.

    To start planning your trip or for more inspiration, head to visitgeelongbellarine.com.au