If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

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7 things you must experience on a getaway to Echuca Moama

Those dreaming of a river escape that’s less rush and more rest will discover the perfect getaway in Echuca Moama.

Best known for summer river holidays, Echuca Moama dishes up extraordinary options for those craving good food, experiences and culture. Discover how best to spend your getaway in this gorgeous river town.

1. Find unique stays in Echuca Moama

Goolwa River Retreat villas
Bathe under the stars at Goolwa River Retreat.

An adventure here starts with the perfect place to stay. Echuca Moama is famous for its luxury houseboats. Be spoilt for choice with amenities like spas, chef’s kitchens and en-suites onboard Murray River Houseboats and Echuca Luxury Houseboats .

For those who prefer to stay on dry land to sleep, there’s no shortage of accommodation options to suit every taste and budget. The villas at Goolwa River Retreat offer spectacular views of the Murray Riverfront, cosy evenings by the fire pit. And, a truly unique and luxurious experience: bathing under the stars in an outdoor bathtub.

Families travelling with young kids will appreciate the fully self-contained cabins, which sleep up to six, at NRMA Echuca Holiday Park . Complete with BBQ facilities and a kids’ playground, Echuca Holiday Park is the perfect base for families exploring the Echuca Moama region.

More adventurous guests can experience off-grid serenity at Carriages Water Front Retreat , where they can slumber among the redgums in a lovingly converted vintage train carriage.

If you prefer a more central place to stay, the Mercure Port of Echuca is located just five minutes from the Port of Echuca on foot and offers comfortable rooms, as well as easy access to all the region has to offer.

2. Explore the Murray River

PaddlesteamerS on the Murray River
Jump aboard one of Echuca Moama’s famous paddlesteamers.

A trip to Echuca Moama isn’t complete without seeing the Murray River. Take in views from the water, with Murray River Paddlesteamers and Echuca Paddlesteamers Or combine sightseeing with lunch at a local winery or brewery on a Wharf to Winery or Port to Plate cruise .

Those who prefer an active holiday can hire a stand-up paddleboard with Echuca SUP  to explore the river. Duck under the historic Echuca Moama Bridge and listen out for local wildlife. At the end of your paddleboarding trip, you’ll find a shuttle service to return you to the car park.

Kayaking is another great option if you like to combine seeing the sights with a full-body workout. Hire a kayak from River Country Adventours , or join a river safari for a guided experience.

3. Go hiking and biking in Echuca Moama

two bikers riding on the 19-kilometre Waranga Rail Trail
Peddle along the 19-kilometre Waranga Rail Trail.

On foot or by bike, there are plenty of trails to explore the region. Embark on a guided e-bike tour with Green Pedal (or hire an e-bike and go it alone) to explore the 19-kilometre Waranga Rail Trail . Traverse through beautiful bushland and the scenic Waranga Basin. Bakeries and picnic areas in the historic town of Rushworth provide the perfect place for refreshments.

Day trip to the lookout at Whroo Forest, near the now-abandoned Whroo township, located on historic Balaclava Hill. The Hill was once the site of Victoria’s largest open-cut gold mine and home to a thriving town. Today, the area offers picturesque walking tracks and picnic sites.

4. Taste Echuca Moama’s best dining options

lobster dish on the table at opa in echuca moama
Taste delicious, authentic Greek at Opa. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Whether you like a candlelit dinner or a coffee in the sunshine, Echuca Moama is ready to delight your taste buds.

Pop into Opa for authentic Greek fare with views of the town from its upstairs balcony. Enjoy seasonal produce at The Mill , offering everything from global street food and share plates to classic dinner and dessert options inside a historic building.

Discover a local secret at Monkee and Co , a relaxed Asian-fusion restaurant serving up classics like Banh Mi and dumplings.

Start the day with excellent coffee and waterfront views at the family-run Watson St Pavilion .

5. Drink at Echuca Moama’s best bars

two people drinking cockatails at paradise bar in echuca moama
Cheers to neon at Paradise Bar.

Top-notch tipples can be found at Paradise Bar , a new cocktail bar serving up handcrafted cocktails to delight the taste buds in the heart of Echuca. The menu features classics like mojitos, margs, and spritzers. As well as Paradise’s own creations featuring funky ingredients like bubble gum syrup and an Old Fashioned with truffle oil.

Bar Lee at the Echuca Distillery is the place to go to watch the sun go down at the rooftop bar, taste Echuca’s locally made spirits and nibble your way through an exceptional selection of share plates.

For river views, excellent service and a more than extensive wine menu, head to Social Wine Bar . You’ll find a laid-back atmosphere in the riverfront beer garden that sprawls out under an ancient pine tree and a cosy interior perfect for hiding away on a cool evening.

6. Follow local art trails

Silo Art Trail
Jump in the car and follow the Silo Art Trail.

The region’s silos have been transformed into impressive, towering canvases depicting local fauna, Echuca’s historical links to industry and the building of the local railroad. Follow the Silo Art Trail by car, which takes between three and four hours.

Rochester Mural Park is home to an annual lineup of changing murals, while the Rochester Mural Festival showcases established and emerging artists.

7. Dive into local history

Echuca Port Museum and Penny Tourism
See the historic Port of Echuca.

The Echuca Moama region is bursting with history. Among its historical treasures is the Port of Echuca . Interactive displays showcase the port’s importance to historical trade along the river, industrial sites like the Evans Brothers Sawmill and the Port of Echuca railway station with its very own heritage steam train.

The displays pay homage to the site’s significance to the local Yorta Yorta People and their ancestral connection to the land where the Murray, Campaspe and Goulburn Rivers meet.

Explore the port independently or join a guided tour to learn from Echuca’s history buffs.

Learn more and start planning the perfect holiday to Echuca Moama at visitechucamoama.com.au.