If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

    Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

    walking trails in the Yarra Valley
    You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

    A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

    holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
    Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

    a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
    A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

    I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

    Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

    Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

    As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate, I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

    oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
    Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

    On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

    I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

    kangaroos in Yarra Valley
    Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

    the Yarra Valley vineyards
    Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

    Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

    COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

    It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

    A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

    legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
    The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

    The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

    I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

    The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

    After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

    Playing there

    the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
    Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art. Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

    Eating and drinking there

    Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

    seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
    The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)