If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Australian Traveller

Australian Traveller

View profile and articles
hero media

What to expect from the Tamar Valley’s newly renovated cellar door

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    Overlooking the winding Tamar River, the Tamar Ridge & PIRIE Cellar Door is where two of Tasmania’s most acclaimed wine labels come together. Sip award-winning cool-climate wines and world-class sparkling while soaking up the vineyard views in one spectacular setting.

    The fire crackles softly as you settle into a comfortable armchair, a glass of Tamar Ridge Reserve Pinot Noir warming your hands. Outside, rows of vines stretch across the Tamar Valley, their gentle contours framed by rolling hills and ever-changing skies. Or perhaps it’s a sunlit afternoon, and you’re on the terrace with a flute of PIRIE Vintage sparkling in hand, watching the valley shimmer beneath you as each crisp sip captures the freshness of Tasmania. At the Tamar Ridge and PIRIE Cellar Door, the setting in one of Australia’s most celebrated cool-climate wine regions is every bit as special as the wines.

    The two brands now share a beautifully refurbished cellar door, giving visitors the opportunity to sample both still and sparkling wines from the Brown Family Wine Group’s luxury portfolio in a single stop. Alongside the shared tasting space, they’ve also introduced a range of premium experiences tailored to each brand.

    Tamar Ridge’s story began in 1994, when vines were planted at Kayena in Tasmania’s Upper Tamar Valley. Guided by renowned viticulturist Dr Richard Smart – the “Flying Vine Doctor” – the vineyard quickly gained a reputation for quality, with a new winery established in 1998 and the Tamar Ridge label born.

    sitting on the lawn of Tamar Ridge & Pirie Cellar Door
    Sit outside to soak in the sun as you enjoy Tamar Valley views. (Credit: Natasha Mulhall)

    Today, New Zealand-born head winemaker Tom Wallace leads the cellar, brings his passion for cool-climate winemaking to help shape Tamar Ridge’s reputation for elegant, expressive wines.

    Founded by Dr Andrew Pirie in 1995, PIRIE helped prove the island’s potential for world-class cool-climate sparkling.

    Crafted in the traditional method from hand-picked Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in the Valley, PIRIE Tasmania sparkling wines are celebrated for their fine beads, depth and elegance. With a collection of trophies, gold medals and top honours behind them, these rare vintages showcase the very best of the state’s sparkling wine.

    Brown Brothers – now known as the Brown Family Wine Group – acquired Tamar Ridge, PIRIE and Devil’s Corner on the island’s east coast in 2010, extending the legacy of a family wine company founded in 1889 at Milawa in Victoria’s King Valley. The company has continued its pursuit of exceptional cool-climate vineyards, recognising Tasmania’s unique potential in a changing climate.

    Location

    roaring fireplace inside Tamar Ridge & Pirie Cellar Door tamar valley
    Get cosy by the roaring fireplace. (Credit: Natasha Mulhall)

    Tamar Ridge & PIRIE Cellar Door is set on the west bank of the Tamar River, just 20 minutes north of Launceston and around two and a half hours’ drive from Hobart near the riverside village of Rosevears in northern Tasmania. Stretching more than 60 kilometres along the river, from the mouth near Launceston north towards Bass Strait, the Valley is a vast patchwork of vineyards, orchards, farmland and historic townships.

    Style & decor

    interior of Tamar Ridge & Pirie Cellar Door tamar valley
    Come for a regular tasting, or book an experience. (Credit: Natasha Mulhall)

    Floor-to-ceiling windows showcase panoramic views, while outdoor decks make the most of the surrounding scenery. Inside, the refined contemporary interiors strike a balance between modern luxury and the natural surrounds, with a double-sided fireplace to linger by. A Tamar River view creates a warm focal point. Natural wood accents add a sense of place, including a handcrafted 12-seat Tasmanian oak table that anchors the space with understated elegance.

    Wine experiences

    The cellar door’s curated wine experiences pair award-winning wines with local produce and the stories behind them. For those who prefer a leisurely visit without a set itinerary, the cellar door also offers cheese platters and small plates, best enjoyed with a glass in hand while taking in those Tamar River views.

    Come for a taste, stay for an experience.

    PIRIE & Oyster Experience

    PIRIE & Oyster Experience
    Taste the best of PIRIE matched with oysters. (Credit: Natasha Mulhall)

    A true taste of Tasmania comes to life in the PIRIE & Oyster Experience, created in partnership with Tasmanian Oyster Co. Exploring the connection between merroir and terroir – the influence of the sea and soil on flavour – this guided tasting pairs three premium oysters from different Tasmanian growing regions with three expressions of PIRIE sparkling wine: the NV, 2021 Vintage and Blanc de Blanc.

    As each oyster and wine pairing is revealed, guests discover how Tasmania’s unique landscapes shape flavour, from the mineral freshness of the ocean to the elegance and precision of cool-climate sparkling wine.

    Pinot Noir Blending Experience

    Pinot Noir Blending Experience
    Try your own hand at mixing. (Credit: Natasha Mulhall)

    For those who want to step behind the winemaker’s bench, the Pinot Noir Blending Experience offers a hands-on journey into the art of creating great wine.

    Guests taste through three to four individual Pinot Noir clones from the previous vintage, each revealing its own personality through aroma, structure and character. Guided by the cellar door team, visitors explore how these individual components come together to create balance and complexity – before attempting their own blend.

    Will you recreate the house style, or create something entirely original? This immersive experience offers a fascinating insight into the craft, creativity and precision that goes into every bottle.

    Supreme Indulgence

    Tamar Ridge & PIRIE Cellar Door
    Settle in for true indulgene. (Credit: Natasha Mulhall)

    The most elevated experience at the cellar door, the Supreme Indulgence (PIRIE Sparkling with Caviar tasting) is a celebration of luxury, refinement and Tasmania’s exceptional produce.

    Priced at $99 per person, the tasting pairs PIRIE Tasmania’s most distinguished sparkling wines with carefully selected sturgeon caviar, chosen to enhance the elegance, texture and finesse of each cuvée. Hosted by an expert member of the team, the experience unfolds as a thoughtful exploration of fine bubbles, delicate flavours and the craftsmanship behind every bottle.

    Start planning at tamarridge.com.au and pirietasmania.com.au.