The biggest mistakes to avoid on an outback road trip

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Steve Madgwick has made the outback road trip blunders so you don’t have to…

It’s lucky no one can hear you swear halfway along the Oodnadatta Track. I gingerly shimmy under the stricken Nissan Patrol for my third attempt to jack it up on the soft track. The passenger-side rear tyre has a gaping hole in it, thanks to a sharp rock that must have been lurking under the red dirt.

This was my first ‘real’ middle-of-nowhere outback road trip, last decade. The 4WD had threatened to fall on me twice as I tried to raise it. I hadn’t seen another vehicle in hours. And I knew that even if I did manage to change the wheel before wedge-tailed eagles snacked on my entrails, I would be sans spare tyre for the next few hundred kilometres.

a 4WD driving on the road
Be prepared before you set off with ample provisions and knowledge. (Image: Maxime Coquard)

It’s obvious now that my hour-long obscenity-fest was driven by fear and should have been directed at my own ineptitude, complacency and ill-preparedness instead of inanimate objects. But lessons were learned.

Don’t learn the hard way if you don’t have to

My Oodnadatta Track shemozzle boils down to two factors. Number one: I ignored advice from locals and people who had gone before me. Number two: I began my journey with niggling, unanswered questions.

an overhead shot of the Ochre Cliffs, Oodnadatta Track
See the Ochre Cliffs of the Oodnadatta Track. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

If I’d deflated my tyres appropriately for that section of track – as advised by a servo attendant and bush-hotel publican the day before – they would have been much more likely to ‘spread’ than shred.

The 4WD rental company had offered to give me a thorough once-over of the vehicle and its features, but I’d man-bluffed my way through: “I’ll work it out if I need to." (It took me 10 minutes just to find and extract the jack from under a seat.)

an aerial view of the rugged landscape in outback South Australia
Condition your vehicle before navigating the rough terrain. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

I’d also left Adelaide still wondering to myself if I would need a second spare tyre and tyre pressure gauge. Fail. Fail. Fail. Recently, I applied lessons learned from the Oodnadatta Track and other outback near-misses to my most challenging road trip yet: a 2000-kilometre drive from Adelaide to Birdsville, via the Strzelecki Track and smaller, remote roads.

Coincidentally, I picked up my rental Toyota HiLux from the same place in Adelaide, but this time I owned my ignorance and popped all niggling thought bubbles. Naturally, I’d pre-ordered a second spare wheel and tyre gauge. I’d also rented a satellite phone because I’d had pre-trip daymares about the consequences of taking a simple but life-changing wrong turn and/or rolling the 4WD 500 kilometres from assistance.

a girl in the car driving along the outback South Australia
Driving the rugged roads of the South Australian outback. (Image: Tourism Australia)

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Stock up on old-school maps and a compass

I now treat outback journeys as analog rather than digital experiences. You simply cannot trust the internet to save your frying bacon out in the boondocks, especially if Telstra is not your service provider. Any country boy or girl worth their salt won’t trust Google Maps once the tarmac ends (even pre-downloading the maps).

a photo of Oodnadatta Track road sign
It’s a long drive between stops on the Oodnadatta Track. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

Consider buying/hiring a dedicated GPS navigator (Navman, Garmin or Hema, for example) or even stocking up on old-school maps and a compass (and learn how to use them). Deferring to local knowledge extends to chinwagging with oncoming drivers – because they have been where you want to go.

desert road signs in outback South Australia
Prepare for a desert road-trippin’. (Image: Jonathan Cami)

Do your research

On side tracks especially, I stopped and swapped anecdotes on upcoming track conditions, badly signed turn-offs and opening hours of fuel stops (which I’d already researched). I chatted about tyre pressure like pensioners converse about the weather. There are various schools of thought regarding when you should/shouldn’t deflate tyres to reduce the chance of a flat and increase your purchase in sand.

Suffice to say, this should be a well-researched decision that can be re-confirmed with your local peers, just as you drive headlong towards that gnarly sandy section or crawl across that naturally booby-trapped dry creek bed. Ultimately, the best advice I can offer is to read much, much more than just this when planning a jaunt along the Birdsville Track, Gibb River Road et al.

Embrace being a beginner; trawl 4WD blogs and gear review sites; dive deeply into YouTube wormholes on soft-sand driving techniques, tyre-pressure tutorials and low-range gear masterclasses. Never, ever be left wondering, “What does this button do?" You can’t bluff your way out of strife in the outback. But with some solid prep work, any foul-mouthed fool can do it. I am living proof of that.

two rock wallabies sitting side by side
The distinctive rock wallabies reside in the outback. (Image: Jonathan Cami)

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Last-minute tips and reminders

  • Carry plenty of drinking water (three litres per person per day, as a guide).
  • Buy in bulk beforehand.
  • Check current and recent weather conditions. As a rule, don’t plan outback trips in peak summer or after heavy rain.
  • Never cross a flooding river.
  • Tell someone where you are going and when you’re due to arrive. Update them about sudden itinerary changes.
  • Take your sweet time and drive to the conditions. The outback can quickly turn small mistakes into serious ones.
  • Give road trains a very wide berth, at least for your windscreen’s sake.
  • Pack a ‘what-if ’ kit for longer trips: basic spares, jerry can, first-aid kit etc.

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Red earth, light shows and ancient culture: discover the ultimate NT road trip

(Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The Northern Territory is made for road trips, and this one hits all the highlights.

    Craggy mountain ranges, inviting waterholes, ochre soil: the landscape of the Northern Territory is asking to be explored by road and foot. There are many iconic road trips to choose from here, but none so all-encompassing than the roughly 3000 kilometres of sealed road that make up Explorer’s Way.

    Spend 14 days (or more, to really make the most of it) driving this route from Adelaide, hitting the NT near the small settlement of Kulgera before later finishing in Darwin. Along the way, you’ll find nearly all the territory’s most iconic sights.

    Discover some of the top highlights that make Explorer’s Way one of Australia’s most incredible road trips.

    1. Alice Springs

    echidna at Alice Springs Desert Park
    See the locals at Alice Springs Desert Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Recently hitting the big screen again with the story of The Kanagroo Sanctuary, there’s a lot to surprise you in Alice Springs.

    Three distinct desert habitats – desert rivers, sand country and woodland – are recreated over 1300 hectares at Alice Springs Desert Park. Time your visit for a presentation or a free bird show.

    Later, turn your attention to the skies above, taking a dive into local astronomy at Earth Sanctuary. You’ll find a range of experiences, from a 90-minute toe-dip into the stars through to an overnight adventure.

    Alice Springs packs a surprising punch with its tasty dining options, including pub grub and unique brews at Alice Springs Brewing Co, tapas and pizza at Epilogue Lounge and tasty cafe fare at the quirky Page 27.

    2. Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

    woman standing at Ormiston Gorge
    Dive into Ormiston Gorge. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom and Jesso)

    Beginning 15 minutes from Alice Springs and stretching across 161 kilometres, Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park is packed with striking ancient landscapes and inviting water holes.

    Visit Standley Chasm – traditionally known as Angkerle Atwatye, meaning ‘Gap of Water’ – to take in its bold red and orange hues, and to observe the diverse bird species, lizards and wallabies that call it home.

    Cool off in one of several picturesque natural swimming holes, like Ellery Creek Big Hole and Ormiston Gorge.

    3. Uluru & Kata Tjuta

    three women looking at Kata Tjuta at sunset
    Explore Kata Tjuta. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Visiting the Cultural Heart of Australia is something everybody should experience. There are so many side trips in the Red Centre you could easily spend a week here, but to get the most out of a short time, park the car then get out on foot.

    Take the 10-kilometre Base Walk around the entirety of Uluru or join a free, ranger-guided Mala Walk along part of the base, learning about Tjukurpa (creation stories) and geology as you go.

    For a change of pace, wait until nightfall and wander through the iconic Field of Light display by celebrated artist Bruce Munro, or see the Wintjiri Wiru lightshow that shares the ancient Mala story using drones, lasers and projections.

    4. Tennant Creek

    pson looking at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) northern territory
    See the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom And Jesso)

    Tennant Creek was Australia’s third-largest gold mining town in the 1930s, and visitors can discover that history at Battery Hill Mining Centre – and even try their own hand at gold fossicking.

    For a completely different side of history, pop into Nyinkka Nyunyu Art & Culture Centre, which preserves and shares Warumungu culture through art, performance, a museum and more.

    Just outside town, find the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). A site integral to important stories held by the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Warlpiri and Alyawarra peoples, the boulders appear to almost have dropped out of the sky and seemingly continue to defy gravity.

    5. Mataranka

    aerial of people swimming in bitter springs northern territory
    Dive into Bitter Springs. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    A town made famous by the novel We of the Never Never by Jeannie Gunn (and a movie of the same name), Mataranka is also known for its sandy-bottomed thermal pool, Bitter Springs, within Elsey National Park. Follow a 500-metre loop track around these spring-fed pools that stay a toasty 34°C year-round, before choosing your favourite spot to dive into. Enjoy the local birdlife while you relax.

    Elsewhere in the park, find historical sites, several scenic walks and Roper River, which is perfect for boating and fishing.

    6. Nitmiluk National Park

    Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise
    Join a sunset cruise with Nabilil Dreaming. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Lachlan Gardiner)

    Nitmiluk National Park is sandstone country, with 13 stunning gorges and plenty of waterfalls waiting to be explored.

    One of the most beautiful spots can be found along the 62-kilometre Jatbula Trail, a five-to-six day bushwalk that follows an ancient Jawoyn songline from Nitmiluk Gorge to Leliyn (Edith Falls). Numbers are restricted and book out quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead. Not up for the hike? Drive right up to the falls and enjoy a dip without the challenge.

    Elsewhere, explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Paddle a kayak through the river running through the canyon, or save your energy on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise, discovering the stories and ways of the Jawoyn people while enjoying a candlelit dinner as the cliffs around you shift colour and glow with the changing daylight.

    Continue your cultural journey at local art centres like Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Art & Culture Centre or Mimi Aboriginal Art & Craft.

    7. Litchfield National Park

    cathedral termite mounds in Litchfield national park
    Be awed by giant cathedral termite mounds. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ As We Wander)

    Just over an hour’s drive from Darwin lies the beautiful Litchfield National Park. It’s famous for stunning waterfalls and swimming holes, including Buley Rockhole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Tjaynera Falls.

    Here you’ll also find hundreds of giant – and magnetic – cathedral termite mounds that are truly a sight to see. Ageing up to 100 years old, you won’t find mounds like these outside the northern parts of Australia. Stroll along the accessible boardwalk to see them up close.

    8. Darwin

    darwin street art
    Darwin art is streets ahead. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Mark Fitzpatrick)

    This list wouldn’t be complete without the territory’s capital city: Darwin. Situate yourself upon arrival with a stroll through the main streets, admiring the many art murals by local, interstate and international artists. They’re all remnants of the annual Darwin Street Art Festival, one of Australia’s longest running street art festivals.

    Stop to recharge along Darwin’s Waterfront Precinct, an area of delectable restaurants, public swimming pools and free events. And, of course, it would be wrong to leave the city without enjoying a bowl of laksa at Mindil Beach Sunset Market as the sun goes down.

    Learn more and start planning your Explorer’s Way road trip at northernterritory.com/drive.