The ultimate Kakadu to Arnhem Land itinerary

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Delve deep into one of Australia’s most fascinating and remote regions on this epic road trip through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.  

Day one: Darwin to Jabiru

 It’s Australia’s northernmost capital city and has a reputation for a heady mix of Asian cuisine, outdoor markets and movies, and fascinating war history – quite simply, Darwin is a holiday in itself. But it’s also the gateway to the country’s largest national park, UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kakadu and Arnhem Land, probably Australia’s most undiscovered and underrated regions.

Leave the city sights for another trip, hire a 4WD from the airport and hit Arnhem Highway for Jabiru, 253 kilometres away. Call into Bowali Visitor Centre to get a lay of the land before checking into Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel (in the shape of a croc). Enjoy a well-deserved float in the pool after a big travel day.

Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu
The famous Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu

Day two: Ubirr

Rise early and lather up with sunscreen to explore Ubirr , an Aboriginal rock-art site that will impress the littlest of travellers. From the main car park, there’s an easy one-kilometre walking loop that leads visitors past galleries of ancient illustrations. If you’re travelling with kids, tell them to keep an eye out for the thylacine. Climb the steps to a natural lookout over Nadab floodplain and Arnhem Land; views run to the horizon over a lime landscape and you’d be hard-pressed not to be moved by the swathes of empty space. For a more in-depth experience, join a ranger-guided tour.

 

You should also check out Cahills Crossing, a popular spot for croc-watching at East Alligator River – be sure to stay clear of the water. Before returning to the hotel, swing past Foodland grocery store in Jabiru to stock up on basic snacks, such as trail mix and energy-boosting muesli bars.

Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu
Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu National Park.

Day three: Maguk Waterfall

Kakadu is famous for its waterfalls, which thunder during the wet (November to April) and mollify in the dry (May to October). The best time to see them is in winter, when you can hike to their base and enjoy refreshing dips. Today, check out of your Jabiru accommodation and hit the 4WD-only road to Maguk Waterfall , which leads to the trail head of a gentle two-kilometre (return) walk through monsoon forest.

 

The relatively easy access to the falls makes it one of the most popular Kakadu attractions, so set out early to enjoy a swim in the freshwater plunge pool before midday crowds arrive. Then it’s time to kick up orange dust on another 4WD-only road, this time to Gunlom campground , ahead of tomorrow’s adventure.

Girl relaxing at Barramundi Gorge (Maguk)
One of Kakadu’s lesser-known attractions, Maguk is a pristine natural waterfall and plunge pool at the base of steep gorge walls.

Day four: Gunlom Falls

The eerily beautiful pools atop Gunlom Falls are a highlight on any Kakadu itinerary. To reach the top, you’ll need to tackle a steep climb for about 30 minutes, so rise with the sun while the air is cool and the track empty. Once there, you’ll discover tiered pools of fresh, ink-like water that are oh-so-inviting. Snap a photo at the edge of the natural infinity pool for the ’gram before bobbing about in a BYO inflatable ring.

 

Back at the base of the escarpment, follow a path around to a large pool where you can enjoy another swim before returning to your campsite for a picnic lunch. In the afternoon, make your way to Cooinda Campground (there’s motel facilities too), about two hours’ drive away.

Gunlom Falls infinity pool
The natural infinity pool of Gunlom Falls with Kakadu stretching out before it.

Day five: Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water

 If you loved the rock art of Ubirr, you’ll also want to make time to visit Burrungkuy (Nourlangie ). The art here depicts the life of the Indigenous Bininj people and there are ranger-guided walks during the dry season. Another not-to-miss attraction is Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water). If you visit in the dry, you can explore the floodplain via a 2.6-kilometre (return) walk to a boardwalk and viewing platform, where you’ll be able to spot saltwater crocodiles.

 

If you’d rather be on the water, join a Yellow Water Cruises’ sunset tour of Yellow Water Billabong and South Alligator River. The Indigenous-owned and operated trips give you plenty of time to admire Kakadu’s wildlife, including black-necked storks and tree snakes.

Days six to nine: East Arnhem Land

Take your adventure up a notch by heading into East Arnhem Land, one of the last truly remote areas of Australia. The best way to explore the Indigenous region is by joining a tour, such as a chartered fishing trip or cultural excursion, however it’s wise to give yourself a day to reach your accommodation (simple lodges, motels and campgrounds) and settle into Arnhem life. To enter the region, a permit from Northern Land Council is required; if you have a guide, ask if they can arrange one.

 

If you’d rather join a tour from Kakadu, our pick is Venture North Safaris’ 4-day Arnhem Land and Cobourg Peninsula Tour . It’s a round-trip from Jabiru and takes in popular Injalak Arts centre, the ruins of Victoria Settlement (a former British military outpost), turtle nesting areas and Cobourg wetlands. There are also , as well as fly-in/fly-out fishing charters if you’re keen to bag a barra.

 

If you have plenty of time or yearn to learn more, visit Arnhem Land during the annual Garma Festival, a celebration of Indigenous culture (the next one will be in July-August 2021). The festival is held at Gulkula, 30 minutes’ drive from Nhulunbuy; you’ll need prior approval to attend.

Dancing Garma Festival
Garma Festival, NT: Indigenous culture at is most vibrant and lively.

Day 10: West Arnhem

If it’s the Top End’s rock art that captivates you, head into West Arnhem for a close-up look at the galleries at Mt Borradaile, a sacred Aboriginal site. Accessible in both the wet and dry seasons, there is a huge collection of art here, including a depiction of the rainbow serpent. Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris runs tours, along with a few other options, such as billabong sunset cruises and birdwatching. Overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Davidsons Eco Lodge
Stay overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Days 11 and 12: Bremer Island

Ditch the car and catch a 15-minute scenic flight from Gove Airport to Bremer Island for two nights at Banubanu Beach Retreat . The eco-friendly property runs primarily on solar power and offers travellers a back-to-basics hideaway, perfect for unwinding after the adventures of Kakadu. Fill your days chilling in your beachfront glamping tent, fishing for Spanish mackerel, mud crabbing with an Indigenous guide, and bird watching.

banubanu-beach-retreat
Banubanu Beach Retreat, Arnhem Land.

Day 13: Farewell the NT

Say goodbye to this beautiful part of Australia on a flight from Gove Airport back to Darwin and home. Or, better still, add on a few days in Darwin.

Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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Red earth, light shows and ancient culture: discover the ultimate NT road trip

(Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    The Northern Territory is made for road trips, and this one hits all the highlights.

    Craggy mountain ranges, inviting waterholes, ochre soil: the landscape of the Northern Territory is asking to be explored by road and foot. There are many iconic road trips to choose from here, but none so all-encompassing than the roughly 3000 kilometres of sealed road that make up Explorer’s Way.

    Spend 14 days (or more, to really make the most of it) driving this route from Adelaide, hitting the NT near the small settlement of Kulgera before later finishing in Darwin. Along the way, you’ll find nearly all the territory’s most iconic sights.

    Discover some of the top highlights that make Explorer’s Way one of Australia’s most incredible road trips.

    1. Alice Springs

    echidna at Alice Springs Desert Park
    See the locals at Alice Springs Desert Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Recently hitting the big screen again with the story of The Kanagroo Sanctuary , there’s a lot to surprise you in Alice Springs.

    Three distinct desert habitats – desert rivers, sand country and woodland – are recreated over 1300 hectares at Alice Springs Desert Park . Time your visit for a presentation or a free bird show.

    Later, turn your attention to the skies above, taking a dive into local astronomy at Earth Sanctuary . You’ll find a range of experiences, from a 90-minute toe-dip into the stars through to an overnight adventure.

    Alice Springs packs a surprising punch with its tasty dining options, including pub grub and unique brews at Alice Springs Brewing Co , tapas and pizza at Epilogue Lounge and tasty cafe fare at the quirky Page 27 .

    2. Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

    woman standing at Ormiston Gorge
    Dive into Ormiston Gorge. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom and Jesso)

    Beginning 15 minutes from Alice Springs and stretching across 161 kilometres, Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park is packed with striking ancient landscapes and inviting water holes.

    Visit Standley Chasm – traditionally known as Angkerle Atwatye, meaning ‘Gap of Water’ – to take in its bold red and orange hues, and to observe the diverse bird species, lizards and wallabies that call it home.

    Cool off in one of several picturesque natural swimming holes, like Ellery Creek Big Hole and Ormiston Gorge.

    3. Uluru & Kata Tjuta

    three women looking at Kata Tjuta at sunset
    Explore Kata Tjuta. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Visiting the Cultural Heart of Australia is something everybody should experience. There are so many side trips in the Red Centre you could easily spend a week here, but to get the most out of a short time, park the car then get out on foot.

    Take the 10-kilometre Base Walk around the entirety of Uluru or join a free, ranger-guided Mala Walk along part of the base, learning about Tjukurpa (creation stories) and geology as you go.

    For a change of pace, wait until nightfall and wander through the iconic Field of Light display by celebrated artist Bruce Munro, or see the Wintjiri Wiru lightshow that shares the ancient Mala story using drones, lasers and projections.

    4. Tennant Creek

    pson looking at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) northern territory
    See the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom And Jesso)

    Tennant Creek was Australia’s third-largest gold mining town in the 1930s, and visitors can discover that history at Battery Hill Mining Centre – and even try their own hand at gold fossicking.

    For a completely different side of history, pop into Nyinkka Nyunyu Art & Culture Centre , which preserves and shares Warumungu culture through art, performance, a museum and more.

    Just outside town, find the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). A site integral to important stories held by the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Warlpiri and Alyawarra peoples, the boulders appear to almost have dropped out of the sky and seemingly continue to defy gravity.

    5. Mataranka

    aerial of people swimming in bitter springs northern territory
    Dive into Bitter Springs. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    A town made famous by the novel We of the Never Never by Jeannie Gunn (and a movie of the same name), Mataranka is also known for its sandy-bottomed thermal pool, Bitter Springs , within Elsey National Park. Follow a 500-metre loop track around these spring-fed pools that stay a toasty 34°C year-round, before choosing your favourite spot to dive into. Enjoy the local birdlife while you relax.

    Elsewhere in the park, find historical sites, several scenic walks and Roper River, which is perfect for boating and fishing.

    6. Nitmiluk National Park

    Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise
    Join a sunset cruise with Nabilil Dreaming. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Lachlan Gardiner)

    Nitmiluk National Park is sandstone country, with 13 stunning gorges and plenty of waterfalls waiting to be explored.

    One of the most beautiful spots can be found along the 62-kilometre Jatbula Trail, a five-to-six day bushwalk that follows an ancient Jawoyn songline from Nitmiluk Gorge to Leliyn (Edith Falls). Numbers are restricted and book out quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead. Not up for the hike? Drive right up to the falls and enjoy a dip without the challenge.

    Elsewhere, explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Paddle a kayak through the river running through the canyon, or save your energy on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise , discovering the stories and ways of the Jawoyn people while enjoying a candlelit dinner as the cliffs around you shift colour and glow with the changing daylight.

    Continue your cultural journey at local art centres like Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Art & Culture Centre or Mimi Aboriginal Art & Craft .

    7. Litchfield National Park

    cathedral termite mounds in Litchfield national park
    Be awed by giant cathedral termite mounds. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ As We Wander)

    Just over an hour’s drive from Darwin lies the beautiful Litchfield National Park. It’s famous for stunning waterfalls and swimming holes, including Buley Rockhole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Tjaynera Falls.

    Here you’ll also find hundreds of giant – and magnetic – cathedral termite mounds that are truly a sight to see. Ageing up to 100 years old, you won’t find mounds like these outside the northern parts of Australia. Stroll along the accessible boardwalk to see them up close.

    8. Darwin

    darwin street art
    Darwin art is streets ahead. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Mark Fitzpatrick)

    This list wouldn’t be complete without the territory’s capital city: Darwin. Situate yourself upon arrival with a stroll through the main streets, admiring the many art murals by local, interstate and international artists. They’re all remnants of the annual Darwin Street Art Festival , one of Australia’s longest running street art festivals.

    Stop to recharge along Darwin’s Waterfront Precinct , an area of delectable restaurants, public swimming pools and free events. And, of course, it would be wrong to leave the city without enjoying a bowl of laksa at Mindil Beach Sunset Market as the sun goes down.

    Learn more and start planning your Explorer’s Way road trip at northernterritory.com/drive.