Banjo Paterson sure knew his way around a rhyme, but we wonder if he’d have known what to make of the rhapsodic pleasures plated up at Berowra Waters Inn?

Nestled under the coolabah trees of northern Sydney’s Hawkesbury region, BWI has long been an ode to Australian fine dining; serving long lunches with a side of sparkling views since first opening some 87 years ago.

Now – after a closure in 2012 – the Sydney institution is again offering a reverentially Australian dining experience; this time under the guidance of chef Brian Geraghty who, though not as well known as the Neil Perrys, Tony Bilsons and Sean Morans of the restaurant’s past, is already winning hearts and hats, taking home his first in the recent 2014 Good Food Awards.

We’re pleased to see that the degustation-only menu has a wonderfully local focus with a native twist (smoke eucalyptus milk, for example, features on a sublime ocean trout confit). And the escapism of having to catch a boat or seaplane to get here can’t be overlooked.

But it’s that special-occasion view that has us falling over ourselves to go back. One for your most-wanted weekends list.


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